*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

WOOT! So excited for you, man. I look forward to seeing your review.

 

Congrats & looking forward to reading your review - as you say that CPU sounds very promising!

 

Hello.

Do you use testsigning /on and driver modification?

 

pretty good results ! Such low voltage too !

 

what do you mean , like disabling signature enforcement ?

 

I disable DSE and use watermark remover to fix my desktop to where it looks nice.

 

watermark remove ? huh what and why ?

 

Well, I use modded drivers all of the time that have no valid signatures. Signatures are a Nazi control freak gimmick and an impediment and I want no part of the placebo security trash from the Redmond Mafia.

Windows 8/8.1/10 are extra stupid about trying to block that, so I have to take control of the situation to have my way with my property.

Save as Kill_DSE.bat, right-click and run as admin, then reboot

Code:

bcdedit /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy

bcdedit -set loadoptions DISABLE_INTEGRITY_CHECKS

bcdedit -set TESTSIGNING ON

bcdedit.exe /set nointegritychecks on

pause

This allows installing unsigned drivers without having the reboot and F8 to temporarily disable Driver Signature Enforcement filth.

This will cause a watermark to show on the lower right corner by the system tray clock showing that Test Mode is enabled. It shows the Windows build and other nonsense.

Running the attached will disable that watermark so you can have a clutter-free desktop.

 

thats pretty friggin crazy.

I hate how MS just restricts full access to the OS or to use it the way we wish too.

Such drastic measures to run programs deliberately the way we want them, is just needless bureaucracy

 

BTW, thanks for sharing that.

 

Eurocom's website shows a discount for 20% if you are a student. http://www.eurocom.com/ec/student()ec
Am I misunderstanding what they seem to be implying with the big white symbol in the lower right hand co

Eurocom's website shows a discount for 20% if you are a student. http://www.eurocom.com/ec/student()ec
Am I misunderstanding what they seem to be implying with the big white symbol in the lower right hand corner?

Forgot to mention I live in the states

 

With this laptop, there are two main questions you should answer: Can you delid your processor on your own?; and What is offered by the reseller in terms of modded BIOS options? This small chassis can get hot. A delid is a must especially if you want the 7700k. The GTX 1080 will push temps even higher. I would think about that as a first priority over spending a little additional money. It is a great way to ensure that your laptop will last much longer if you can keep the temps in control. The modded BIOS is going to be very helpful in the long run if you want to get the most out of your machine. The standard BIOS is very restrictive.

 

thats literally NOT what they told me when I asked.

Then you show me the link and I see the 20%. I fuc%$@ hate being lied to, pisses me off so much.

Was not my intention to mislead anyone, I was literally passing on what I was told when I asked, and when I went to the site it didn't have that 20% thing, anywhere - and I originally asked because someone else said there was a student 20% thing.

So I guess we're offering 20% then.

Thats technically great news, since there is no way for anyone to prove your a student or not, everyone might as well just say they are a student.

You win 0% of the chances you do not take. So go and try your best !

 

I don't feel like anyone has intentionally mislead me in anyway. However, I also know I am not like the majority of the potential customers you guys deal with on a regular basis. The only reason I can even consider buying something like this laptop is because I managed to win an extra grant this past semester. Heck I'm still running a first generation I 7 in my desktop and the only reason I have a decent graphics card is because a friend gave it to me when he upgraded.

I've read good things about HID but I still have to consider price. Especially when the difference is almost five hundred for near identical builds. The only differences are the cmos reset switch, delid, and Prema bios because only HID offers those but are they worth the price jump?

 

It seems Eurocom offers an unlocked bios of their own now.

 

Not entirely accurate, there are others who offers similar services, for one, I offer delidding, CMOS/NVRAM switches/extensions, unlocked bios and charge even less then others and have a very large record of customers you can ask about my other various services, if you would like to find out more. I also offer these services to a laptop purchased elsewhere if you ship it to us, so you could get your savings from Eurocom or elsewhere and ship it to us for 3rd party services.

mind you I have my own deals, so people like to double up on the deals and combine them.

 

yeah, they do.

I sent you some rep as I noticed you just joined and no one should run around naked on these forums !

Enjoy - hope to see you stick around and maybe finish your profile with a picture or avatar or something too.

If there is anything we can do to help you decide whats available or best for you, let us know - that's the beauty of these forums - it's community !

 

Received my 4k display cable today. Looks right. Unfortunately the 4k screen I bought, the seller shipped me the wrong one. So I need to purchase another one. Will hopefully have one soon. Debating if I want to go with the Sharp OEM or something different.

 

They are absolutely worth the jump in price. If you know how to delid and how to spread liquid metal beneath the IHS then you can do that yourself and save a bit. Prema is a member here and is more than highly regarded. He is the one that supplies the BIOS option for HID. Not only will you have his BIOS, but you will have a direct line to people here that know it, use it, and are eager to help. You can't count money for that kind of service. You have to spend where it makes sense. If you could afford to get those two things, the rest can wait. I cannot stress how important the delid is though. Are you planning on the 1070 or the 1080? You can order the laptop and install your own cpu if you are delidding yourself. That would also save money. There are two areas of this machine that I would not skimp on- the delid and the BIOS. Everything else can be replaced in post.

 

whats wrong the cable or the screen ?> Where did you get either ?

 

I agree, I've found no less than 25C and usually as high as 30C less temperature from the delids I've done on every 6700K and 7700K for this laptop. Also as I've shown pictures too, not all the heatsinks are flat or make perfect contact, so I always suggest getting that lapped or fixed as well. In many cases even shipping back the heatsinks for replacement, without having the customer worry about running an RMA themselves. Making the heatsinks make proper contact and keeping them smooth as a mirror also lowers temps another 4-5C.

 

Posted the link earlier for the cable, purchased from waresphere. Cable looks good.

The screen I purchased from a seller on ebay. He sent a 17 inch screen a completely different model number than I even ordered... I reordered a 4k screen just now.

 

ah right, thanks !

 

Alright guys I need some help that is driving me bat crap crazy. I am heavy into emulators (look into Launchbox if you are too) and every emulator, even ones not demanding (like NES or Sega) run like crap on this laptop while on battery. My unit is running @ 4.6ghz for every day speeds and my I have a 200/300 GPU overclock when needed. I can play pretty much any modern game fully maxed out on this unit and maintain high FPS, but emulation on battery absolutely brings this thing to its knees. I checked cpu-z an gpuz while playing, and my CPU clocks were dropping down to around 1600mhz. I changed the "balanced" profile to maximum performance and my CPU clocks went up to around 4200mhz. My GPU clocks are steady at the stock 1557/1251/1734 while playing. I have tested Retroarch, Dolphin, PCSX2, and a couple others and despite my FPS counter being at 30 or 60 FPS, the game itself runs like it is in slow motion. Does anyone have any thoughts on what could be causing this while on battery? I have tested every power profile in the NVIDIA control panel so I am thinking maybe they don't work for the version driver I am on.

 

In the open source (e.g., Linux) community, the motto is "Your gun, your bullet, your foot, your choice."

 

I've been using XTU to tinker with my cpu, but it doesn't seem to have much flexibility. For whatever reason, the option to move over to static voltage is locked out. On top of that, I can't seem to modify gpu memory clocks. Should I switch over to TS? I have never used it before.

 

I'm using XTU with good results. That greyed button is a confusing aspect of the UI. IIRC, the way I got it to enable was to actually change the value of the "Core Voltage" slider in the right-hand column first. If that's set to "default", there would be no point to "static" voltage. Confusing, I know. Let me know if this works for you, because I'm not 100% sure that's the way I fixed it -- but I do recall having, and overcoming, the same UI issue.

 

Have you adjusted the gpu clocks through XTU?

 

Hey @Mr. Fox I had a funeral to attend (Someone in the family passedaway in a car accident) to so I didn't have time to do much.

Here is that crash dump report via WhoCrashed.

I Had to go from 4.5GHz to 4.4GHz and it is stable for over 6 hours under heavy load on 4K gaming, the CPU got to around 83 Maximum but I noticed the GPU after continues 6 hours of gaming it boils to 94c, good thing I played in windowed mode and kept HWinfo down there to monitor temperatures. Room temp was around 22c~

Playing lighter games but still in 4K it gets the GPU to 90c. If I play in 1920*1080/1200 the GPU stays cool in the 70-80 range.

I still haven't done a repaste, I will try with the shim first then without. CMOS switch kit is also pending installation.

 

Sorry to hear about you and your family's loss. Best of wishes through this time of grief.

 

Games that fully tax the gpu (4k res, max settings, etc) are going to run 87-89 degrees on this laptop with max fan on, just the way it is.

 

Yeah I noticed that, HWiNFO shows a 165W draw on maximum while the heatsink is designed for 150W, now that is on STOCK GPU speed, I didn't apply the 200/200 OC preset in MSI afterburner, I want to see how much more power it will pull. Still I think a repaste should improve the temps a little bit more, however benching on A/C is something I consider doing since this is summer time and where I work & live is scorching hot, 45C outside, thank god for the A/C invention.

 

No, XTU won't do that. I'm using MSI Afterburner for GPU settings. I've got a slight overclock set on my GPU, but I stayed more conservative there. I'm using the machine for work, and my workload tilts more toward CPU and less toward GPU than a typical gamer system.

 

I haven't even checked if I have that on my machine. This is my first MSI. I'll keep buying them if they keep it up with the LGA format they've offered to Eurocom. I'm looking out for that 17" barebones. I'd like to see how it stacks up against the Clevos.

 

in general thats a bit on the high side of temps.

 

Without external cooling and with the GTX 1080 - hitting those temps is actually pretty easy when maxing the chip. I imagine the temps will be better with the 1070. I have never seen sustained temps that high on my book, usually just temporary peaks, but I have seen them. I typically range in the 60s maybe 70s for average temps. I haven't pushed the settings hard though and I am running a slight OC.

 

well, many here have resorted to practicing thier undervolting and underclocking to fix temps, while at the same reporting very good performance still, maybe you can adjust a few things, and this would be the thread to start asking questions in.

 

Absolutely! This forum has been my life line. I have a slight undervolt on my machine. I've only pushed it to 4.9 Ghz. It was running pretty well, but I didn't have a chance to fully test stability so I have dropped back down until I get more time. I spent more time on building a laptop cooler and I want to perform the bottom panel mod before I really start getting into the extremes with this machine.

 

Whats great about a thread like this, is so many people have already done the work, they could easily share a profile that work for your exact configuration, like when you go to HWbot and click on someone's XTU profile you can "apply" it right away.
No need to share the file itself, just the URL.

 

That takes away the fun of having to figure out some of these thing on my own!

 

yea 1070GTX on this machine has much better temps. i dont exceed 80c when doing some of the most GPU taxing games like witcher @4k and with +200/+400 OC on auto fans.

 

No takers on battery performance? Is anyone else suffering bad performance on battery? I get it is going to be degraded and won't hold a handle to plugged in clocks/performance, but not being able to run a nintendo 64 emulator is very poor IMO.

 

Sorry, wish I could help. I haven't tried any emulators and I fully expected to be tied to a wall with this beast.

 

Generally, laptops on battery power simply cannot provide enough juice for the dedicated GPU. Also, I believe there is no integrated GPU so it has to use the 1070/1080 at all times, so unless I'm wrong on that, not sure what can be done.

 

By the way @rancid , on battery power, what is your GPU clock speed running at?

 

Think I see the issue now after going to the sensors tab in GPU-Z. Core stays at the same default clock of 1556.5mhz (same as on the plug) but the GPU memory falls all the way down to 202.5mhz from 1251.5mhz! There appears to be some form of hard-lock on the memory clock on battery as even overclocking in Afterburner does not change the clock speed over 202.5mhz.

Can you guys verify this on your units for me if it behaves the same?

 

I figured it was something like that. My previous laptop had the same issue on battery, even playing 4k youtube video caused severe lag. However, thats some serious drop in memory clock, i really hope there is a way to raise it in reasonable amount.

 

Have you tried opening the Nvidia Panel and making sure "Prefer Maximum Performance" is enabled when you're on your battery profile?

 

10000% positive, even performed a reboot after setting it.

 

Doh! I had never thought to check that myself. Mine was set to "optimal power", and changing it to "performance" netted me an additional 400 points in FireStrike (on AC power mode).