*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Oh I would know. At 4.7GHz I need the same voltage under load as an "average" 8700K uses at 5GHz.

 

Stock clocks and full load in Cinebench heat up below the Alienwares i9 BGA idle temp


The new 2018 line Alienwares...

 

Yeah, there is absolutely no legitimate excuse for a stock Alienware to run that hot. Dell should be totally ashamed of selling such broken garbage. It's completely asinine. It might be severely exacerbated by an abnormally poor quality BGA i9, but their wimpy cooling system certainly ain't helping that situation.

 

Looks like they are hitting the cap close, but the performance still looks great.

 

See... From Dell’s adverticing... Alienware 17 R5 boost performance with 8th Gen unlocked Intel® Core™ CPUs.
Alienware 17 gaming-books offer new 8th Gen Intel® Core™ i5, i7, and i9 processors with up to 6-cores... ”Enabling overclocking up to 5.0GHZ for the first time ever on Alienware’s most powerful family of laptops.”



And People think things have been improved... http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...r5-owners-lounge.815492/page-78#post-10736998

 

I know people like to crap on Linus, but look at the crazy stuff he had to do to get 5 GHz stable on an Asus notebook with the i9 CPU.

 

Linus is as dumb as a dooorknob.
All he had to do was sit the laptop on top of a portable AC unit.
And I'm sure this joker has a portable AC somewhere.

Most likely it needed 1.45v for 5 ghz.
But it was getting current limit throttling. If XTU was indeed properly setting 255A for CPU current limit, then the embedded controller or something else within the Bios was flagging this.
He may have had to disable Thermal Velocity Boost optimizations in the advanced bios menus. But of course he has no idea how to unlock the advanced bios menus. If it can even be done...

 

this is not brand new i got the machine second hand on ebay but is looks like new , except for the S key which is worn out

 

The first thing I thought when they just flipped it over without installing the bottom cover was WHY ARE YOU BASICALLY PLACING THE FANS FLUSH WITH THE TABLETOP!!

I'm sure airflow was restricted without it at least being elevated slightly. Amateur stuff.. of course those guys are sometimes just doing stuff for lols on their videos to make them fun to watch. I do like most of the stuff they post, it's a good channel you just have to shake your head sometimes..

The video where they applied liquid metal to an Acer Predator Triton 700 was fun..

 

Question for the masses. I've tried every highly regarded thermal compound Phoyba (nano and hegrease), Grizzly Kryo and Conduct, Gelid Xtreme, IC Diamond, and god knows what else (I'm pretty sure I tried more) and absolutely nothing keeps my 7700k under 80 degree load @ 4.5ghz with a hefty undervolt. I also tried an aftermarket copper IHS from Rockit, the one from Bitpower and the stock intel one and they are all 1 degree of each other in any combination utilizing aftermarket thermal pads. My question is, do I just have a hot running processor? My last 16l13 that I had from HIDEvolution ran much cooler so I at a loss as to what the issue is. I even tried multiple thickness copper shims with no luck on the CPU and I redid the delid at least 5x trying little, normal, and extra liquid metal with all similar results. My temps across the cores are within 2 degrees of each other so I don't think I have a warped heatsink and when I use the "X" spread method, it clearly distributes the thermal paste evenly. I decided just to run the laptop on "balanced" performance mode instead of High since that keeps temps doesn to 64-68 degrees under full load @ 4.5ghz.

Moving on from the temp game with this laptop I'll be chasing it forever like Mr. Fox did and I'm pretty sure I've spent upwards of $200 on thermal compounds and IHSs at this point. I will say it was nice having the GT73VR where max load temps were mid 50's (yes I know it is BGA, apples to oranges right..)

 

Rancid, I know we talked before, but did you set IA AC DC Loadline to "1" in your bios?
As you know, all MSI laptops overvolt because of this setting. AND the VID shown at full load is completely inaccurate (its about 100mv lower than what it should be, because of the "DC" loadline setting (1.79 mOhms default or Auto) showing voltage "vdroop". This is assuming that the 16L1/GT62VR actually has built in loadline calibration (which removes the intel authorized vdroop) which is why the overvolting is too bad.

It's 100% proven that the GT73VR, GT75VR, and GT75 Titan all have 1) internal loadline calibration similar to a 'medium' LLC level on desktops, 2) overvolt in combination with that with IA AC DC Loadline reference (auto) value of 1.79 mOhms. The 16L1 also has this reference value but I do NOT know if it has internal "loadline calibration" (Vdroop compensation) hardwired as on (not adjustable in the Bios).

 

Probably just a hot running poor CPU sample. You need a better than average CPU for a laptop.

 

Laptop wouldn't boot with a value of 1 for AC and DC Loadline, was even hanging in the BIOS.

 

What is your voltage? I would get a boot loop, or BSOD before Windows loaded, if I set IA AC/DC Loadline to 1 with a too low voltage.

 

Interesting. So do you think it is worth bumping up the voltage to set this value to 1? I have a hefty undervolt at -0.174V IA offset 4.5ghz

 

Yes, it makes the VID very stable. But you need to raise voltage. At 4.7 I would BSOD at stock with it set to 1. I had to add +80mV offset to be stable.

 

I'll give it a go tomorrow and see what I can come up with, thx.

 

You can NOT UNDERVOLT when using IA AC DC Loadline of 1 !
You can only undervolt when running BELOW stock speeds!!

 

Well @Falkentyne , I bow to your greatness. It took a lot of fiddling last night and this morning to get my voltage stable, but I've been running AIDA64 for about 20 minutes straight and it seems to be stable around 72-74C across all cores running high performance mode @ 4.5ghz, compared to around 80-81C before I changed the loadline values.

Cheers my friend, I think you may have solved my issue for me.

 

good work.
Unlike Clevo, you just have to remember MSI's cancer.

1) they apply IA AC DC loadline to both static and adaptive voltages (Intel's own specifications dictate that this is only supposed to be applied to ADAPTIVE voltages. To be fair it seems that Clevo does this also, but not with a cancer LLC messing things up. Static voltage application will affect the VID, and SOME desktop boards have also applied this to static voltages too. But this was undesirable and caused EXCESSIVE overvoltage, because it basically compounded the effects of loadline calibration (LLC), making a medium LLC act like the most extreme setting; these bioses were later changed to prevent CPU VID (which is directly affected from IA AC DC loadline) from affecting static voltages (vcore) on 8700K boards) however, some boards do not have built in loadline calibration or adjustable loadline calibration. (e.g. Clevos). So this setting needs to be left at default on Clevo premamodded laptops.

Note that:
IA AC loadline affects the actual voltage going into the CPU by boosting the VID by amount of resistance.
IA DC loadline is the VDROOP the CPU thinks it's getting IN THE END, based on amount of resistance. But MSI removes vdroop by a hidden Loadline Calibration setting, which is why on MSI laptops, if you set IA AC loadline to "1" and DC loadline to "180", the super low resulting VID shown at heavy load makes NO sense (try it for yourself and see). That VID you see would be the vcore IF MSI were not using loadline calibration (LLC). But their built in LLC removes the vid droop from DC=180. But then AC loadline makes the VID *RISE* at load--see #2.



2) #1 isn't the exact problem. It's #2:
MSi uses built in loadline calibration to remove voltage "vdroop" under load. I did not know this until @Vistar Shook and i were doing 4.9 ghz CPU runs, and noticed with both LM, at the same speeds and same power draw, that he needed almost +150mv more voltage for the same power draw as I did, even after i had IA AC DC loadline set to 1 (this goes against the laws of physics; if current and cycles/amps are the same, there is no way +150mv will give the same power draw. I then later found out when I tried running 3.4 ghz at 0.8v (!!) prime 95 small FFT FMA3 with no WHEA Errors, *AND* IA AC DC loadine set to 1, that this would only be possible with loadline calibration active (if a desktop 7700K were capable of this WITHOUT any loadline calibration, there is no way a BGA would be capable of it). That's because without loadline calibration built in, voltage would be dropping to 0.75v most likely. I don't think any CPU in existence can do 3.4ghz 0.75v prime95 FMA3 small FFT on 8 threads.

When you set IA AC DC loadline to 1, you remove the VID boost from #1. But since VID gives target vcore (based on IA AC DC Resistance values), you still have the LLC. So basically you undervolt to counter the effect of IA AC DC loadline=1.80 mOhms (Bios value 179 or 180). If you set IA AC DC loadline to 1, your undervolt is no longer needed.

 

how do i confgure a raid setup on ms16l1 ? whats the key combination for accesing the raid controller?

 

I think all that's done in the BIOS. Set the SATA mode to RAID, reboot, go back into the BIOS and there should be a new menu you can access to create the array.

 

thank you !!

 

game face on !! the division is my jam

 

What xbox controller is that ? o.o

 

thats a 360 controller

 

Based on your signature you do not have ssd? At least buy a cheap 256G m.2 for Win, than you will feel the power of this beat...

 

He was asking about a RAID setup, which would only be possible with an SSD on this machine because there’s only one 2.5-inch drive bay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

yeah pretty much my bottleneck right now is the hdd , i ran out of cash after assembling this beast xD , but im looking for cheap options , i might exchange spare components (gtx 980m and a i7 4810mq) for an ssd and more ram

 

I would not recomment raid... to much fuss... you can buy pretty fast (3000+) ssd for acceptable price... however this machine without ssd - let's put in this way - not optimal

 

Hey guys.
A couple of months ago I bought a Eurocom Tornadoo f5 laptop used. It has an i5 6600k and 1070gtx VGA.
Recently I started having issues with the laptop: While gaming the laptop shuts diown and restarts, sometimes with just a pain white screen, sometimes with weird colors on the scrren before the restart. At first it only happened like every 2-3 weeks but now it happens in like every 30 minutes especially while playing PUBG.

My temperatures are normal, never higher than 80 celsius. The event viewer says its a kernel power error with Id 41 and the bugcheckcode is 278.

I know its hard to help with this much detail but I was hoping that maybe someone else had similar problems and might be able to give me some suggestions. My biggest fear is that the VGA is faulty but I hope there is something else failing.

 

how much ram you have? maybe remove one stick of ram and test one at a time (in case you have more than one module)

 

I only have one stick of 8GB Ram, so currently I'm not able to switch it. But I might run some windows tests if the RAM could cause similar issues.

Also I think i should make a clean installation pf the nvidia driver, instead of simply downloading the newest one. Which version do you guys use? Shall I just download the version suggested on the Eurocom website? It seems a bit outdated.

 

i have the current driver version , i got my tornado recently so never had the chance to test old drivers

 

Start downloading whocrashed:
http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed

Check the errors after crashing then post them here in this thread so others can help you troubleshoot the problems.

 

Which vBIOS is your GTX 1070 running?

 

I am thinking about swapping my 120hz panel out for the AUO 144hz IPS 3ms panel that is being used in various gaming laptops. I know it's a 40pin eDP connection, we have a 40pin cable available for the laptop and I can source the panel from China brand new. Anyone think we will run into compatibility issues? I figure I'll lose brightness control maybe, but that is totally fine with me.

 

Is this the same panel that's in the new blade 15? I was considering it as well. I can't find it ANYWHERE where did you find it? I even have a google alert on it.

One I was looking for was the LGD05C0. It's in the new blade and the Gigabyte Aero 15x

 

You'd want the AUO B156HAN07.1 because that's the 3ms G2G one. The other 07.x and 08 revisions, LGD05C0, etc. are 8ms.

 

Is that 144hz panel is G-Sync QHD?

 

LOL. I didn't see that when I was browsing panelook.com due to they have it listed as a 16.5" panel. Sigh... I was wondering why they had no 144Hz 15.6" panels..

 

FHD and no G-Sync.

 

BTW.. Panelook says the B156HAN07.1 is 9ms G2G

 

Don't put too much stock into listed specs. NBC measured 3ms G2G on that panel: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Asus-...ll-HD-Laptop-Review.293956.0.html#toc-display

 

Yeah I read that review..

I found the B156HAN07.0 panel, the B156HAN07.1 panel is "discontinued" everywhere.

 

Yes same, the 7.1 is the panel to get for brightness and response times it seems. Can't find that one, only the 7.0 and 8.0. Hmm..

 

Downloaded whocrashed. but I couldn't reproduce the error since... Will post a report when it happens.


Also my vBIOS version is 86.4.2b.0.14

 

Incidentally, I ordered one of those a couple weeks ago to give it a try (B156HAN07.0).
I seem to be having a weird issue with NVIDIA drivers though, so it won't work. The display switches off just after the 'Starting Windows' screen, just before logon, on both Win 7 and 10. I assume this moment is when the Nvidia drivers are loaded. Further evidence of this is that it works fine with the generic Windows driver (though only 60hz, I believe) and it's also fine in Safe Mode .
The display is recognised, though. With an external monitor attached, I can see in Nvidia Control Panel that it thinks it's working and at 144hz.

A couple times I was able to get it working fine by uninstalling/deleting all Nvidia drivers, then installing them again. Normally this would cause it to switch off immediately but it would rarely stay on, 144hz, and configurable in Nvidia Control Panel. Of course it would only last until I restarted, though.

I gave up on that and ordered a 120hz instead (B156HAN04.5). It's not *quite* the same model officially supported (B156HTN02) but I figured it should work, yet I'm having the exact same problem.

Does anybody know a solution? Is there just no way to get them to work? Anything you want me to try on the 144hz?

e- Searching this thread, a lot of people mention backlight issues with replaced displays and a BIOS update to correct it. Was this ever resolved?

Update: I found an old post in here suggesting Nvidia Driver 378.92. It works! I'll run it through a few more restarts to be sure. It's running at a buttery smooth 154hz (customised in Nvidia Control Panel). I installed a newer driver and it switched off again, it's definitely a driver issue.
No brightness control either, I think that was expected though. Has the BIOS update fixed that for anyone?

 

Question which BIOS are you running? Did you ever get the 120hz BIOS that fixed the exact issue black screen after Nvidia driver install and brightness control issue with 120hz panels.

 

I have the Prema unlocked BIOS via HIDEvo. I'm assuming this doesn't include that fix, maybe someone else can confirm.
(For "BIOS Version" it says E16L1IE9.30C, and down the bottom it says "Version 2.18.1263" with the Prema label.)

The display works fine now on drivers 381.78 and below. The ones I've tested are as follows:
378.66 Ok
378.92 Ok
381.65 black
381.78 black
382.05 black
382.53 black
398.11 black

I can get 165hz out of it. It looks amazing, I'm so glad I revisited this issue.