*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

I know it's possible to get good results using the curve, but it's also possible to mess it up. I'm just suggesting to @hfm that he try removing any Afterburner Curve related tweaks & instead apply a traditional slider based Mhz offset overclock - for testing purposes to eliminate the possibility of a messed up Afterburner curve.

 

I reverted to stock as well as trying custom undervolting curves. Neither worked out.

Also, the CPU performance in Cinebench went back to the crapper after I fired up from applying the LM, even though it's sitting at 4700 solid with no throttling. This is some really strange stuff. I even uninstalled a bunch of stuff and shut down a bunch of background apps just to test that theory even though I see practically nothing else consuming CPU in task manager while running Cinebench. It seems like the scores are varying wildly.

My next thing is to remove my boot ssd and replace it with a spare and do a system restore back to the stock windows installation from HID and run the tests again. About to tackle that now, I'll report back. Thanks to everyone that's trying to provide some ideas to figure out what the hell happened here.

 

ICD did that to the copper?! JFC...

 

I will admit the grooves were me trying to scrape it off.. but the silver area is, I believe..

 

Hey guess what happened with a fresh Windows install with default bios settings... Windows update was running in the background as well... Going to finish all the windows updates and see if that ends up tanking it...

 

With what? A screwdriver? See if you can find sandpaper (2000 grit)

 

Yeah I wasn't terribly worried about it it's not as bad as it looks. I did fix it mostly..

 

Yeah, as long you didn't do it equal bad as the Dell tech. The screwdriver was 10 inch long. Once you look another way, it's too late save it This is from my Alienware 17.

 

Now Microsoft is saying my activation key provided by Hidev is so longer valid. I checked it 3 times.. 0xC004C060 error

 

New install? Whatever... Activation servers probably busy.

 

Call them on the phone and activate it that way with the 800 number. ALWAYS works!

 

Yeah I had to do the phone activation for the first time ever when I installed Windows 7 a few months ago. Surprised the heck out of me.

 

No dice. I could hardly understand the rep whne he was explaining the reasoning but it was something about the product key won't work and something about upgrade or downgrade and the rep recommended I call HiDevolution and they will provide me with a new one that should work. Guessing that this key won't work for reinstalling from scratch or something. It's late and I didn't feel like having him repeat it again.. I'll call them Monday.

I just pulled a 17200.. so I'm good I think..

 

Hello?
I write here because of fan problem with my Tornado F5.

The fan does not work at all now, but all voltage in fan is normal.
By manually turning on the power several times, only the CPU fan will work, but the GPU fan has no effect.
(Regardless of the fan, the symptoms are the same even if they are switched each other.)
Maybe CPU fan need boosting to initiate.

the spec is
i7-7700k / gtx1070 / 32G RAM
Eurocom factory unlocked bios / Windows 10 pro rs4

Re-installing windows was not a solution..

 

I'm not sure if you clean - re-installed the OS or not. If so, don't put in any Windows key.

 

I used the restore drive they gave me which seems to just be a Windows Pro installation media. I tried the key they provided on a small sticker in a little baggie. (it also matches the one they emailed me when they were building the laptop).

 

@hfm, just give into temptation & throw your laptop out of the upstairs window in a fit of rage - problem solved! ;-)

 

Well.. the performance was restored by reinstalling Windows, so the activation is just an annoyance. So I'll attach a parachute to it as a kind gesture.. I don't have the patience to hunt down what the problem is as I've uninstalled a lot of apps, ran multiple malware scanners, checked to make sure no game streaming or recording was accidentally on..etc.

Edit: got it sorted with HID support. They pulled Microsoft in and fixed it. Props to HID for the quick help.

 

The aavid fans on the GT62/GT63/16L13 (aka Tornado F5 or EVOC 16L-G-1080) are extremely poor quality and reliability. If it's under warranty call Eurocom and have them send you a new fan. You should probably buy like 4 extras, they WILL fail eventually. Both of mine have failed and I had only had the notebook for a year..

 

My fans are almost 2 years old at this point on my F5. 1 year and 9 months old and still going strong. I run my fans at 50% all day under normal circumstances, and 200% (max) when gaming via the toggle switch.

 

Isn't that 100% of RPM? Do you pump double voltage?

Consider yourself lucky, there's been no end of people in here complaining about them failing.

Maybe I had the same type of luck with my 2014 Blade where I abused the snot out of it and it just kept going..

 

Anyone knows where I can find AUO B156HTN0 5.2 120hz display for reasonable price in EU? I have got an offer from an official retailer for 300EUR.... I have bought from German for approx 100EUR (brand new) but they do not have on stock anymore only 5.1 model, what I am afraid to buy. THX!

 

Ping Woodstackz, he can source them. Absolutely do not get the 5.1 model and do not let anyone tell you it will work, you should have learned from my posts and PMs that it doesn't work with our BIOS by now.

 

I have read your posts but i need it in clevo p751tm1

 

you think that someone will figure it out? i still waiting from months already.

 

@woodzstack should still be able to help.

 

Sorry, what in particular are you waiting on? Getting the 5.1 panel to work with this model? No, I don't think anyone will unless someone can convince Prema to make a custom bios mod for it. SVET made me 8 different BIOS files for the 5.1 panel and we could never get it to work, always a black screen when updating past a certain driver set and no brightness controls. Swapped to the 5.2 model panel and it immediately worked.

 

Im having G-SYNC issue. In my home Im using external 144hz BenQ XL2430 monitor but now I'm away from home and have to use g-sync 60hz laptop screen. When I play games with g-sync refresh rate looks like really low. It feels like lower than 60. Is there any solution or advanced option for G-sync ?

 

Use something like Steam/GeForce/Fraps to find what your FPS actually is. It's possible that you're just used to 144hz, so 60hz will be very noticeably slower. Gsync will help eliminate screen tearing but it can't possibly compensate for that difference.

 

What are your FPS ?
Whats the resolution you run at home and the resolution of the panel your using now ?

 

Seems to be a few on AliExpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=B156HTN05.2

 

i have bought a B156HTN05.1 from Entroware in the UK, its labeled with B156HTN05.1 (manufacturer Date 19/2017) but in HWInfo i see B156HTN05.2 ;-) have a look here

its working fine now in my Clevo N957TP6

 

Some .1's have the EDID for .2, it is very odd. I got my .1 panel from a reseller off ebay that drop-shipped from the manufacture and HWInfo saw it as .1

Not sure how hard it would be to reflash a .1 panel if someone ended up with one.

 

Delidded my 7700K and got around a 12-13C drop on all cores under load. Idle temps did not change.

 

Interesting, exact same decrease in temperature that I got when delidding my 6700K - 13 degC drop. (That's in desktop PC)

 

8 core cpu coming soon.. hope eurocom's F7 about to come out

 

Sorry for latency. I couldnt answer. I solved problem with disabling vertical sync option from nvidia control panel. It affects it.

 

oh yeah ?

I essentially always leave V-Sync enabled, and have no issues. I'll keep open mind if ever I experience issues similar.

 

I have problem with ram kits from G.Skill. When I purchased my F5 from Eurocom, my laptop came with 2x8 3000Mhz sticks. I had a lot of BSOD crashes so I made memtest86 and adress erorrs were detected. In that time, I also performed memtest86 to each stick alone and one of them had error and other one had none. So I made RMA request to GSKILL and sent only one stick to them and used my F5 with only other 8GB ram. After 1 month (around April) I recieved my replacement and started to use it. However, end of the May I started to have BSOD crashes again and made memtest86. After 1 month old stick that I did not send to GSkill had a lot of errors. So I sent it to GSKILL, kept replacement stick that came from RMA. Got my second replacement 1 week before. I installed new stick and tried to increase them to 3000Mhz with Eurocom's custom memory settings because my XMP profile 1 is not stable. Custom profile worked after 4-5 attemps. I instantly made memtest86 to dual channel mod ( didnt performed to each stick yet ) and again I had 4 errors in Test6.
I'm so dissapointed because right now all sticks that I have are replacement sticks and still have memtest86 errors.
I have question about ram sticks right now.. If I use one faulty stick with proper one, does faulty stick effects or ruin proper one and make it faulty stick ? Only thing I can think about this situation is my second stock faulty stick ruined first replacement kit from G.Skill.
Tomorrow I will make memtest86 to each stick and try to find faulty one.

 

Return both sticks for a refund and just get Corsair. Not worth it to play roulette with your OS and RAM errors.

 

Who will I refund them to ? G.Skill or Eurocom ?

 

What's the part number of the ones you have in your system? And what's the model # of the GSkill memory set that you've purchased? As long as you can match the spec any brand is fine.

 

I always recommend sticking to Kingstin HyperX 2400Mhz CAS14, it's faster (at least in the tests I've run, way less latency) , and WAY more reliable, and cheaper.

 

Corsair RAM is garbage. Aside from some no-name sticks I bought for a computer a decade ago, Corsair is the only memory that's ever given me trouble. While I personally like G.Skill, you can't go wrong with Crucial or Kingston.

 

G.Skill has been great and price is aggressive.

 

I didnt bought any stick. I have replaced stock sticks from Eurocom those was F4-3000C16S-8GRS models. RMA replaced sticks are the same models.

Also I did tests to each stick and I dont understand that there wasnt any error when single test. Also I made test to dual channel with default memory BIOS settings (2400Mhz CL17 etc.) and no error again. But yesterday I made it on 3000 Mhz and CL16 and there were 4 errors.

 

Did you mix memory modules with G.Skill ones?

 

Hmm
I just set my Kingston Valueram to 2400 mhz, cas 14-15-15-35 , 1T, and it worked (4x8GB) with a 2 hour memtest86.
And the default timings are 17-17-17-39 2T.

No idea if a 'normal' 14-14-14-28 timing would work or not (can't be bothered trying that).

 

I've seen memory that should work have compatibility issues with some mobos. It's been a really long time since I've seen this type of thing happen though.

 

"Count to four. Inhale. Count to four. Exhale." - BJ Blazkowicz

As I love my F5 a lot, I have decided to upgrade it to 1080 in order to max out my MickeyMouse I have started to check the 1080 prices in the online shops, when I managed to buy a second hand one.

After that all I needed was the heatsink and of course some clue how to do the upgrade. @Woodstack helped me instantly (thank you hereby) and sold me a brand new heatsink. After some research I figured out that there are two different types of heatsink, a cooper colored and a black one. As I have seen the cooper one seems a little bit more massive, however I just assume it after checking some picture.

I have also received some assist from @Woodstack, as the 1080GTX has different screw holes, and a separate steel mounting holder is needed to fix the position of the 1080. I have checked the major shops for that iron holder, but It was not separately, only with new motherboard… (very smart business logic btw).

Anyways, after some PMs with woodstack I felt brave enough to start the procedure. I have talked with a very senior expert guy in Hungary (he fixes 99% of the gaming laptops here ), and explained him the card holder problem, different mounting holes etc thru phone. He said not to worry, we would fix it with some extra effort. I have took the machine him one evening to start the upgrade. We needed exactly 5 minutes in order to figure out that I was f*****ed The screw holes were my least problem when I tried the new card in mxm slot...

First problem what we have realized, that I should have bought (I assume) the cpu heatsink as well. As you can see from the pictures the cpu cooler has a small plate which cools down the rams of the 1070. This small plate was just in the way, and reached the coil (I hope that’s the proper word for that piece part).



So the first problem/work to cut out a small piece from the place with dremel. For an expert it does not seem to be hard, but it requires very high attention not the hurt the heatsinks. OK after some “locksmith” work, it was done.

Then the second problem came that it was still not enough, the coil still reaches the heatsink. The expert said not problem, we would slide the coil a little bit towards the gpu core. So he soldered the coil out, and resoldered 1mm away. It was also difficult as it is very close to the x-bracket screw hole, so the furthest reposition was around 1-2mm.



After some very very f****ing deep breaths (at least from side, the guy was pretty calm ) I was relieved that finally it was done. No, it was not it was still not enough.

The third problem’s solution was pretty funny and genius as well, he removed the cpu heatsink, and with very gentle but explicit small hits he bended the heatsink a little, just enough that there was 1mm space for the coil. After securing the space with gap pad between the heatsink and coil it was finally done. The funny things that we have been discussing with Woodstack a lot what to do with the pegs, how to remove them etc. The solution was simple. We have put plastic pipe on it (which shrinks to heat), they cover both pegs not to harm the gpu from the bottom. The card stands very stable on them, it was very easy to put the heatsink and screws on the xbrackets. Stable and steady



During the 2-3 hours work we have been discussing that we would put the heatsink on the vrm next time (check pictures where).



After cleaning, pasting, assembling I was very excited to test the new card quickly. The machine posted, all heatsinks were warm, so all were working, but I could not install the nvidia driver. I was worried that something was not OK, but it turned out that you need inf modified driver or install the driver manually after replacing the original graphics card. It is not a biggy, can be solved in 2 minutes. If somebody has a general solution for that let me know. After a quick superposition benchmark the card runned well but hot, it scored 15k.

Long story short I have started to search on the forum, reading many posts etc so I started to find a good voltage curve for the card. The basic curve gives 1,05V-1,063V to the card which is too much for this small laptop resulted in 90-91C under stressing (reaching 200W). With the curve I have set it limits the TDP to around 170W (hwinfo) @0,912V. You can see the results of the current setup not much less than the full powered card, but runs a lot cooler. Under gaming (100% load uncapped fps) it is in low 80s (summer does not help either 30-35C outside, also hot inside).





So all in all I am pretty happy with the upgrade, the machine got even more powerful. I need to admit there were some point when I was disappointed, but I have always found some solutions. As I have been more and more familiar with these gaming laptops, I see that many problems can be solved, however you need to invest some time to solve them. For this I have invested many many working hours but I think I have a very good laptop by the end of the day.
Cheers,