*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

The reason you needed INF driver is because your 16L13 uses the *150W* version of the MSI 1080 card.
The card you purchased was the 200W version, which is used in the GT73VR. This card is not whitelisted by the Bios, so an INF mod is required.
The 1080 150W card would work without problems.

So next time, for other users, you need the CPU heatsink, GPUheatsink and the 150W 1080 video card.
Note that you are perfectly free to TDP mod the 150W video card manually to 200W (requires a 1.8v adapter and Skypro hardware programmer to do, and Pomona 5250 clip + jumper cables), and that is only a VERY small investment compared to the video card price.

It's a little "easier" for GT73VR users trying to change a 1070 to a 1080. Besides the required 330W power supply (1070 comes with the 230W), you need the GPU heatsink and GPU VRM heatsink. Unlike the 16L13, the CPU heatsink does not cool the GPU VRM's, BUT the VRM heatsink is cooled by the CPU fan because the GPU VRM radiator maps to that side. So you still can't escape MSI's shenanigans.

 

Thx for the clarification, however I am pretty fine with the end result it was a very good investment comparing by the end of the day. btw, is it possible to modify the bios to whitelist the card? (maybe svet can do it? thx

 

SVET can do that for you. He's the MSI magician. You can ask him over on the official MSI forums on their website.

 

thx, I will ask him.

 

Is there 1050 MXM graphics? And 200w

 

Oh.
I fixed that.

 

Look if this vbioses resolve your issues, post by Mr.Fox
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...6-owners-lounge.797128/page-747#post-10580891

*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

 

Updated my F5 with a new 120Hz panel today after much internal debate on whether it would be worth it to swap my current TN 120hz out. Mainly I wanted faster response times and while this panel is a tiny bit dimmer (its still seriously very bright IMO) I figured it was worth the trade off for better response times in games. Immediately I noticed the colors are FAR better, blacks are black and the thing looks very close to an IPS level screen. The pixel response time was immediately noticeable even on the desktop with far less "blur" when dragging around windows or programs. Games are greatly noticeable as well. All in all I am very happy with this panel and I 10 0% recommend this one over the older "certified" 120Hz panel from Eurocom. Also brightness controls work 100%.

Innolux N156HHE-GA1

I got it for $99.99 with free shipping and it came in 3 days via FedEx.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/N156HHE-GA1-Laptop-Led-Lcd-Screen-15-6-120-HZ-FHD-1920x1080/123143254187?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

This is the current MSI GE63 and GT63 panel and boasts 120Hz with 3ms advertised response times.

Edit: After playing with this screen in a few games, wow. This panel makes the AUO 5.1/5.2 panel look like garbage in comparison. The pixel response times are amazing and playing twitchy shooters like CS GO are like day and night different. Contrast is vastly better and it's easier to see and detect enemies. Or maybe it's the fact that this panel has colors? Either way cannot recommend this panel enough over the AUO alternative.

 

How does this panel compare to the CMI 17" 120hz 5ms (Older) panel used on the GT73VR (not the GT75VR's 3 ms version)? Just wondering about the difference in overall quality if that can even be compared (may not be possible, just curious).

 

Sounds like an amazing upgrade. I would do the same, but can't stomach the loss of G-Sync. I currently have the same AUO panel you had, so imagine my surprise when I found out it was actually 12ms instead of the advertised 5ms. Apparently the new LP156WFG-SPF2 (LGD05C0) 144Hz IPS panel lets me keep G-Sync (it's offered by my reseller and others with G-Sync support), but even that one is still 8ms with worse colors than the Chi Mei.

Looks to be way faster. 4ms g2g vs. 13ms g2g

 

I figured I may as well write up my thoughts on this screen for anyone going forward that wanted a 120Hz panel. The more I use it, the more I wish I had grabbed this screen way back when it was first available. Who is your reseller? I haven't see any 144hz panels or heard of support on the F5 or 16L13 for them. I'm sure with a 40pin cable it would work, but G-Sync? I'm not sure the green weenie will allow that. I would love to be wrong though!

 

I don't have a 16L13.

 

O ooops I see that now haha. Yes giving up G-Sync would be a kick in the pants then for sure. But I think once you see how fast this screen is you might be willing to give it up haha. It's a beautiful display. Fast, great colors and 120Hz.

 

Wow, I am pretty OK with the AUO 120hz, however in the tm1 the IPS seems equally fast, or even faster. The 144hz is also noticable, however the difference can be recognized only by HC gamer All in all, thx for the tip I would invest 100USD to test it out, I just need to find EU seller!

 

if you already have a 40 pin cable, where would you get the 30 pin cable for the 16L13?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-M...X0AAOSwXEdaaVOv:sc:USPSFirstClass!60190!US!-1

30pin EDP for 16L1.

 

There was discussion in here recently about the 144hz panels. I was fortunate to get one that can OC to 165hz via Nvidia Control Panel and I've been running that for a while now with no problems. (Besides sacrificing GSync and brightness control, to be expected.)

I have no idea what its response time is though. Naturally that might be far more important to you if you play fast shooters. I don't really.

 

They're all 8ms panels from what I've seen. Asus is the only one with the 3ms AHVA panel, but that one is exclusive to them and you can't get it anywhere else.

 

Awesome news Talon! Can you upgrade the drivers as well without the black screen issue?

 

Everything works 100% no issues.

 

People, guy, brothers..
I'm in urgent need of help, someone that not upgraded by Prema's tool the Intel ME firmware, would like to share his bios or exact version of IME number with me?

Because a version prior to 11.7.x is required to run a coffeelake cpu on z170 chipset and EUROCOM send me an updated bios version, not the original one, because in this version mount IME 11.8.50.3399 and I remeber well that Tornado F5 come shipped with 11.6.

Thank you all, best regards


Edit:
Thx to skyFox90 response in private to let me know the exact version mounted on default bios (11.6.0.1126) but in the meantime I received my ch341a and flashed succesfully a modified bios (by a nice guy) with downgraded Intel ME cancer fw

first
11.8.5


and after
11.6.


Now the road to mod is open to me ^_^

 

Would be great if we could do get the version of the BIOS and then upgrade our CPUs to CFL after modify the changes and flashing with a hardware programmer. It can be done, but it seems people don't want us to be able to do it IMO. An 8086K underclocked a bit would definitely work and would be a huge upgrade for the F5.

 

Cross finger for this mod! @Mr. Fox open the way.. what a really impressive man!

 

I have tornado f5 with 7700k and unlocked BIOS.
Could anyone share (low temp) bios CPU settings ? ( I am inexperienced in this area)
I would really appreciate it. I tried with undervolting (from intel XTU) + ADDA fan mod + back cover holes + liquid metal, but it still get throttling on 4.5ghz under load like prime95/Intel stress test.

 

Is your cpu delided? I assume yes, however are you sure it was done properly? What voltage does ur cpu require at 4,5? Imho it sholud not be much over 80c under ibt or such benchmarks...

 

Yes, it's delided (it was stock delided, but they didn't told me and i open it up again ).
It's 80C under 40-50%(task manager) load browser and other lite stuff/ GPU on other hand it's max 74C under full load while mining with cooling pad on (I use two noctua NF-A14 PWM custom made)

 

Stock delid is not made by liquid metal. I bought mine with delidded as well but temps were really high. So I decided to make my delid and instant surprise... They used an thermal paste which is not liquid metal.
You should re delid your CPU and then check your temps.

 

It was liquid metal for real I clean it up and used conductanat and just closed it again.
I just looking for some bios optimization, so my laptop never reach thermal throttle again under any load and 4.5ghz clock.
Mr. Fox use some tweaks as i see in some clip of Clevo laptop with 7700k, but i am not sure if i can use same settings on tornado f5 motherboard.

 

Alright then. Is your voltage stable ? what is max at stress test ?

 

picture is from prime95 stress test (Small FFTs)
under prime95 blend stress test temps stay ~85C

 

Try static voltage. Start with 1.2 or 1.21V and if its not stable try to find stable voltage.
Also change IA Core Domain AC/DC Loadline to 1 at BIOS for stable voltage ( thanks to @Falkentyne )

 

Hey there,

I wanted to contribute some ideas / validate some existing ideas.
First and foremost: I bought my Tornado F5 (6700K, 1080 GTX, Samsung 960 Evo) 2nd hand and it had already had the bottom holes mod done.
I specifially wanted to get a high powered laptop, because of the possibility to take it with me on business travels.
However, I am not willing to lug around a cooling pad whereever I go, so all temperatures mentioned below are taken from the F5 being slightly raised (placed on small spacers, 2cm high, in each of the four corners), without using max fan speed and running in a hot room (about 28°C room temperature, due to the summer).
My device showed quite high temperatures in HWInfo64 for the PCH (going up to mid 90s °C under load) and on the second temperature sensor of the Samsung Evo 960 (NVME SSD, reaching mid 110s °C while installing Windows updates and drivers!).
Just for reference: the first sensor, which is seemingly monitoring the flash chips, showed mid 70s °C while the second one, seemingly monitoring the controller, showed those abnormally hot temperatures.

Moving the SSD from one slot to the next achieved nothing temperature-wise.
I had previously used a Samsung SM951, which is known to run quite hot as well, and had used a long copper shim (15x60x20 mm, cut to size by a workshop), isolating tape and some thermal pads to keep it cool.
Yes, it looks ghetto but gets the job done and the material costs less than 6 Euros, i.e. way cheaper than any after market SSD cooler.
But for the 960 Evo (and the lack of air movement inside the F5), this proved to be insufficient - the sensor number 2 would still register temperatures in the high 90s °C after continuous load.
Adding further copper only delayed the high temperatures - basically soaking up the heat but was unable to dissipate that.
What finally proved to solve the problem, was putting a thin layer of copper tape (adhesive on one side) to about half of the bottom cover.
The SSD's makeshift copper cooler connects to the copper foil via a thick thermal pad (a quite compressible one) and that has finally reduced the maximum temperature of the second sensor to low 80s °C under continuous load.
(Please keep in mind: all the temperature readings are based on normal use, e.g. installing applications or playing games - I did not run synthetic benchmarks, because why should I? To further increase thermal stress on overheating components?)
Initial idea from *** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Secondly, my PCH was heating up quite a lot, reaching mid 90s °C after longer play sessions, which I consider unhealthy.
After some consideration, I took apart my F5 and glued a small heatsink (Enzotech BCC9 Low Profile) on top of the PCH.
However, I did not want to glue it to the mainboard or PCH itself, so I went with isolating tape around the PCH and glued the heatsink to the tape via high temperature silicone (leftover from delidding).
Unfortunately, the heatsink itself was too tall, despite the low profile.
I finally solved this by bending the spikes sideways, which resolved my hot PCH - reducing temperatures by about 15 °C under load (somewhat tricky to guess without using a controlled test scenario).

Initial idea from *** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

So thank you very much for the inspiration / ideas!

To summarize, I went from this (roughly 30 minutes of light browsing)

to this (about 45 minutes of light browsing)

by adding a small heatsink on top of my PCH and taping copper foil on half of my bottom cover

 

Did we know there's a better fan, PABD19735BM- N395 (original is PABD19735BM- N222), capable of 5500rpm (as reported by Silent Option)? My GPU fan died recently and I ordered one of these slightly different models without even realising. Temps seem to be about 5 degrees better, based on my crude observations playing Shadow Of War.
I only see one other reference to it in this thread, someone replied that it's rated for 5000rpm but that the housing is different, and the discussion went nowhere after that...

 

It's the same size and screw hole pattern?

 

Exactly the same. The only difference is purely cosmetic: the top half of the housing is grey/metallic, rather than matte black. Incidentally, this part was bent in transit for me so I just switched it with the same part from my faulty fan.

I have found issues with speed control, though. The main one for people especially conscious of noise is that there is no speed <2000rpm. In Silent Option, 0% to 1% represents a change from 0rpm to ~2100rpm. It's fiddly but possible to then transition smoothly up to about 70%/4200rpm. 70%-95% is then a no-go zone. You'll want to go straight to 95%/5500rpm, otherwise, it will abruptly toggle between 4000rpm and 5500rpm every second or so (rather than maintaining a constant 5000rpm, for example), which doesn't sound at all healthy.

I happened to buy two of them, and they both behave the same +-15%, and tested in both CPU and GPU slots.

Noise is roughly equal to the originals at 2000-4000rpm, maybe slightly quieter, while 5500rpm is loud.

 

best solution for me was to put adapter from m.2 slot to usb and step up voltage from 3.3V to 5v and put slim fan right to SSD so there will be active air flow (right now i am waiting for the step-up module since on 3.3V fan spin unefectively)
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...fan-modifications.810712/page-4#post-10742780

 

Can someone help me regarding updating the bios. I wanted the bios update because I still have the old bios where the screen will turn really dark when the nvidia driver gets updated. I emailed Eurocom and got the bios update file and followed their instructions. But near the end of the instruction, I got an error:

ROM file ROMID is not compatible with existing BIOS ROMID.

I emailed them about it but only got an instruction to turn off secure boot which was already in the instruction they provided before and not pull the plug which is very obvious.

update:
Was able to use the /x command to skip the error but there was another error saying no memory allocated. Restarted my laptop and it is working. Hopefully there is no problems

 

Excellent, lets get this 8700K mod done brother. Mind sharing the BIOS with me? I will flash mine. I think we can figure this 8700K/CFL mod out with some help from forums etc. I am willing to donate to those in the know to get it done for the community.

 

Why are you guys even trying to do this?
Even if you get the 8700K (or 8086K) to POST in the 16L13, the MSI Embedded Controller is going to kick that poor CPU's butthole and it's going to be throttling more than a strangled rag doll....

 

I dunno, an 8086K or 8700k binned can be tuned to pull around 97w at 4.3Ghz all cores. With around 4.0-4.2Ghz you can really undervolt the CPU and pull a lot less power and it will be fine while offering great multithreaded performance the 7700K can't touch.

 

Check the PDF.

 

I'm with this if it is doable. 8700K in the TF5/EVOC is a wet dream of mine.

@Mr. Fox I know I said I will build a new desktop but this Idea of the 8700K in this little beast is very tempting, don't you agree?

 

Yeah, it's fun. From the old lady (Clevo P870DM-G and the 3 years old Z170 chipset + @Prema Mod).
52x http://hwbot.org/submission/3879625_papusan_cinebench___r15_core_i7_8700k_1708_cb?recalculate=true



Stock clocks... Load temp as idle BGA temp.

 

OMG! these temps on load!!! WoW I cannot imagine F5 with 8700k, even on solid 4,0Ghz would be awesome, and I think it would remain under 100W, which might be enough for the F5...

 

I don't know how some people get the temps that they do in these machines. Mine runs well enough but when gaming or under any load, the thing is pushing 90 degrees on my CPU and GPU (with no cooling pad or fan mods or anything except holes in my case), usually idling around 40-50c and I only had it OC'd to 4.7 (my 7700k). My 8700k in my new desktop idles around 30 and hits around 40 when under load with a full custom WC loop and no OC yet running at about the same clock speeds as in your last screenshot. I don't understand how you keep the temp so low in a laptop like this with a cpu like that.

 

Fans on hair dryer speed

 

Just my U3 mod. The laptop fans never kick in outside during heavy load. I use max fans under benchmarks.

 

I figure anyone that would post temps is doing so under max fans to optimize for effect of showing lowest possible temps even though most people don't like to run max fans normally because it's super annoying

 

You are a GENIUS! After hard flash it works like a charm nvidia driver recognizes the card and install itself without any mod! thx for the help, this issue is solved. I have flashed evoc prema vbios, it boots to 200W as well, however I have limited to approx 160W. I have no clue with the same circumstances the stock bios would be similar in case of temps and performance. thx for your help again!

 

I have tested for a short period of time the stock bios works well, however the clocks are lower, and as I have realized it boosts to 150W which is resulted in better temps. However with evoc prema bios it boosts higher with stable clocks locked the curve @ max 0,9V. So far as I see this voltage comfortable for this laptop w/o cooling pad. With that I can imagine it could go higher in Watts and volts...