MSI GS63VR Stealth Pro Owner's Lounge

Thanks for reply! What registration are you talking about? I bought the laptop from a norwegian company with an online store.

 

Google - Register MSI laptop warranty. The "No Oops" warranty may not be available in your Region.

You should put your location in your profile so we know what country you are in.

 

It's still worth a try if you have ADC, use a smaller drill bit to get the damaged screw out so you can check the internal again. But if there's really nothing you can do then go with ADC.

 

Anyone know a good place to buy replacement parts for the GS63VR? I need a hinge cover, mine has a few broken clips and now it likes to pop up a little here and there and wont stay all the way down. I know the part number is 3076K10112-TA2. Thanks.

 

The best source to purchase replacement parts is MSI. There are possibly 3rd party around but this would be parts that were parted out from a machine.

 

So just call or email their support folks? Makes sense

 

Hi guys,

This is a bit embarrassing. On the base, which screw goes where? (I'm seeing 3x different sizes?)

 

Oh yes I'd like to know as well - 15 screws, but I have only 2 kinds identified and the lengths are the same, only the head is very thin and flat on 7 while 8 have a thicker, rounder head.

Isn't there a service manual around and a parts list? I'm used to HP Elitebooks, and there this kind of info is perfectly published in pdfs. Mind you it doesn't need any screws to detach the bottom panel

 

Service manual can be requested from MSI tech support directly, but those don't typically show much of details besides repair/dismantle procedures.

 

How's your wifi performance. Mine has an Intel 8265 and it is horrible. I can't get a usable connection in places where all other laptops in the house and any cell phone have no issues. This is ridiculous and I am doubting the usability of this machine now as getting internet connection is probably one of the most important things when travelling around.

 

What computer do you have? Your signature says HP w/ 3rd Gen i7-3610QM.

 

Intel cards have the worst range. Upgrade your WLAN card to the Killer AC 1535.

With the Intel 8265 and even the newer 9260 I can barely connect @ 173mbps to my router but with the Killer card I connect @ 866 mbps all day long.

PS: add your current system model/specs to your signature so that we can better assist you in the future.

 

Posting here, it's a GS63 of course So far I was happy with Intel cards, the 8570w has a 4965agn and it's been better than most so far. Although it has 3 antennas and I really wonder what went wrong there as newer cards generally all have only 2 antennas. Hmm, so Broadcom then (Killer uses Broadcom I think). The tests I've seen put the Intel above the Killer in throughput, but that's nonsense of course, range is what counts, not throughput. And few test for that and properly.

 

ll be honest with you....Ive tried both on my gs63 and i kept the intel..sure connection speeds on the link with the killer showed to be faster but with my house wifi (ubiquiti ACpro(2 of em)) and my office which has the same AP i find the intel AC cards to be much more stable. and in the end peace of mind is where its at for me.

 

Either wireless card works fine and it's definitely recommended to install the latest version of driver.

 

Agreed!!

 

Hey everyone
I am not sure if I am posting in the right thread or not since I got gs63 7rd with a 1050 rather than 1060. After reading all 122 pages (took me almost a whole day!) I still left with a few questions regarding this machine.

1. Do I have to uninstall the dragon center for undervolting the cpu and gpu? I read on ultrabookreview that you have to uninstall the dragon center since it will interfere with the cpu clock speeds. However, I remember someone said in this thread that he has done this without uninstalling the dragon center and no problem raised. I am confused!

2. Has anyone installed the windows precision drivers without any problem like restoring to ELAN drivers after update or reboot?

As a quick recap of my experience after 2 weeks let's start with the specs, my device is running win10 education version (I did a clean install of the windows and drivers) and comes with 256 m.2 ssd (no HDD), 16 gb ram, i7 7700hq and 1050. I also bought a 500 gb sumsung ssd 850 evo for it.
-My screen is LG with 72% NTSC. Color accuracy is quite nice for me as well as viewing angels. The only complain I have is the contrast which is troublesome while watching a dark scene in game or movie.
-Fans noise are not audible in idle or when web browsing or office work. However, in games the cpu fan is loud, not much but it is there and I guess it is normal for such a thin chassis.
-Track pad is ok, nothing special, keyboard is very good except the space button which sometimes does not work if I press the corner of it.
-The battery is well above average for me despite all the complains I heard in this forum. I easily get around 4 hours on battery while web browsing and watching movies on 75% brightness. Reducing the brightness to 20% give me around 5.5 hours. I am pretty happy with these results, and I actually think it is because of the lower end GPU.
-Speakers are a total disappointment on this laptop. I was ready to pay a $100 more but get a better speakers. On the other hand, the audio with headphone is a nice experience.
-I also have micro stutters while watching YouTube, however I don't want to switch to dGPU since I may lose the good battery run-times.

 

Hey glad you are digging the laptop so far. For your first question... no you dont have to uninstall Dragon Center if you just want to undervolt. I certainly have not. Though I am not having ThrottleStop do anything with my clocks.

Yes I had the precision driver installed but it would not stay installed and I gave up. Every reboot it would go back to the Elan driver. Maybe someone else has a trick I am unaware of.

For the spacebar, I had that issue. I taped a small cutout from a business card onto the bottom of the spacebar right where the center membrane/sensor makes contact upon pressing. That way the travel is a little shorter and it will pick up corner taps. It has worked fantastically. Basically this is the fix I followed - https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=267543.0

 

Thanks a lot, then I will start to do the undervolt. Btw, did you also undervolt the iGPU? And what is your cpu fan speed at idle?

Ok, I guess I have to install it to find out how it is gonna work on mine!
`
Perfect, I will definitely try it, hope that it fixes mine too. One question, how did you take out spacebar from keyboard?

 

So I planned on replacing the keyboard with a different layout and just spent an hour searching for teardowns or descriptions and now I'm rather shocked. It seems the keyboard is welded to the top cover. Can someone who has been inside a GS63VR confirm that? Is replacing a keyboard such a difficult task and basically a one time thing? Is it really structurally dependent and held by those melted plastic nipples? So if those nipples are cut off the keyboard "falls" onto the mainboard? What does MSI do if they have to repair a keyboard? Take a new top cover and melt fresh nipples?

 

I have not undervolted the iGPU, that is on the to do list, but just haven't bothered yet. I have simply undervolted the CPU core and CPU cache by 155.3mv each. I have a 6700 Skylake, and it idles at 35c.

I took the spacebar out, very carefully.... I had actually done a couple keys before because I actually like my Windows Key on the left side and function on the right, I know.. heresy... forgive me. So I have it swapped in the bios and I also swapped the keys themselves because I like continuity. ANYWAY... there are videos on how to do it. You mostly need to pull at the correct angle to insure you pop the keys out and not break them. Here are a few youtube videos that should help...

The spacebar is basically the same, except it has metal bars that the key cap tabs snap onto, as seen in the photos in the link in my last post, so you need to pry it off slowly around, tab by tab, at the metal bar. I believe I used a credit card, though a flat head screwdriver could work. I think a plastic card would be safer, less likely to scratch or puncture something.

 

That's correct, due to its compact design the keyboard is secured onto the C side panel so in order to change the keyboard you are actually going to need to replace the entire C side. MSI will replace the whole thing.

 

So I just undervolted the CPU core, cash, and Intel GPU (i7-7700hq). The results are a bit confusing for me and I have a few questions.

On Prime95 (blend test with 8 threads, 50 minutes run) I was hitting 95 degrees before any undervolting and it was constant there without any drop in temp. Fan was also spinning with 5000 rpm. After undervolting a couple of times I noticed that the system can run the P95 with -150mv undervolt ( core and cash, -51.8mv on IntelGPU) however when I stop the app, the system freezes. Thus, I increased the voltage (core and cash) to -145mv and everything was stable from there on. However, my temperatures were still hitting 95 degrees with a minor difference. They didn't jump directly to 95 degrees, instead they were around 85 degrees at the beginning with max core speed of 3.39 GHz, and slowly raised to 95 degree. Afterward, the cores speeds drop to 3.2 GHz and after a minute the system starts to cool down to 85 degrees again and the process continue as loop.

Then I tried TS bench in Throttlestop. Without undervolting, my Temp was around 88 degrees while using 34.5W power. then I applied the -145mv underlvolt to both CPU core and cash (and -51.8mv to Intel GPU) and I noticed that Temp decreased tremendously to 73 degrees also power usage dropped down to 24.6W.

I also run the Heaven benchmark for almost an hour with 1050 GPU and everything was stable and cool. Then I switched the GPU to iGPU in the Nvidia control panel and run the test again. With -65.4mv undervolt, I was hitting the same score and Temp that I did with -51.8mv undervolt (FPS=9.1, score=229, TDP = 21W, and temp around 67 degrees). The system was also stable after 30 minutes of running the test. But I didn't go any further cause I wasn't sure if it is the right way to stress the iGPU when undervolting.

Question 1: Is there any problem with my laptop that cannot constantly hold the temperatures down in P95? or it is just this program feature that put an unrealistic load on CPU? I read in most forums that people were suggesting to test the system temp and stability with P95 after undervolting (including notebookcheck, ultrabookreview, and unclewebb!).

Question 2: At idle mode, while doing literally nothing! my temps are around 39 to 46. Is that normal? I saw others having less numbers.

Question 3: How can I test the iGPU stability while undervolting it?

PS. I haven't installed any heavy game to test the difference in FPS before and after undervolting (except LOL which is a piece of cake for this beast!).

 

Just check the video from dave 2d and seem like I have to undervolt to keep the CPU of laptop not become fried. I play BF1 and it goes to 97 Celsius degrees and throttle about 30 40% even with a cooling pad. But do I need to run the prime 95 overnight like he said to check the stability of the laptop since stress test for long hours is not good for a laptop. And will undervolt void the warranty?

 

NOOOOO! Do not run Prime95 for hours. There is no need to run it at all...but if you must, 10 minutes is plenty.

Undervolting will not void your warranty.

 

thank you but I dont know how to check if the value of undervolt is the limit of my CPU. I never doing undervolt before.

 

The undervolting expert here is @hmscott

Stand by and you should see him reply to you here within a day.

 

Think of the undervolt as fine tuning the voltage needed to run your CPU, each CPU is slightly different, some will need more undervolt than others to get in tune - best performance with least heat generated.

Over time as new CPU's are tuned and we get reports back as to maximum undervolt, we can make a suggestion for first values to try, and give maximum seen undervolts that are stable.

It appears that -100mV is an ideal first value to set, most people can reach it, even if it's under the maximum it's enough to drop CPU temps at load by 10C, which has shown to be enough for 99% of the owners to stop thermal throttling, if they were seeing it.

The range of undervolt can be under -100mV, so if you aren't stable drop down to -50mV and see if that is stable, if it is increase in -5mV increments until unstable - crash, BSOD, "strange behavior".

Same goes for starting at -100mV, if it's stable for you then increase in -5mV increments until it isn't, then back off +10mV and test stability at 100% load and complete idle.

Usually the last tuning will be needed when left idle and CPU voltages start dropping to save power, it may drop further than stable and crash too, adjust by +5mV and you should be ok.

The +10mV correction should be enough to cover that... that's why it's suggested - to save time. You can fine tune +-1mV at a time if you like, I know I do after a few weeks / months.

The range of stable undervolt I've seen is -15mV - 220mV, with most in the -120mV - -140mV range.

I had the -15mV unit, and after 18 months I was able to get it to -50mV stable, so over time you may get better undervolt. Something to check over time, when you get bored. Same for OC, it can change over time too, in both directions.

There are two apps people use here to set the undervolt, and for overclocking, and then when the laptop BIOS has CPU tuning options the final values are set there. You can also do this from the BIOS completely if your laptop supports it.

For most people the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility - XTU - is the simplest to understand interface, although it's cluttered with all the tuneable parameters, it's easy to find the single drop down for undervolting:

Downloads for Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility (Intel® XTU)
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/66427/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-

Others like ThrottleStop, you can check that out here:

How To Start ThrottleStop With Windows
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/#post-6865107

Brief how to undervolt in XTU :

The name(s) might change, but the interface contains what you are looking for, here's an example of setting the Core Offset Voltage to -100mV, and Cache Voltage Offset to -100mV.

The Yellow items are changed from Defaults, then you "Apply" the changes live (they take effect immediately), and test by running the XTU Benchmark or Stress test - 5 minutes is enough for a first test.

You'll see the Core Multipliers are adjustable for this CPU, as well as other parameters, you can ignore them until you find a solid stable undervolt for stock default CPU settings.

If you are stable after testing with gaming or benchmarks, you can go back into XTU's interface and "Save" the settings as a named profile, and XTU will (mostly) reload that Profile at boot.

If you crash for any reason, or don't shutdown cleanly - use the power button to power off - XTU has to assume it's parameters caused the crash and will not load the last Profile used at boot. You can go into XTU, select the Profile again, and it will load again at boot.

There are problems over time with Windows 10 and XTU loading a Profile at boot. Windows 10 uses hybrid shutdown, and apparently that confuses XTU into not loading the Profile at boot, or back from Sleep.

There is a thread on how to set up a PowerShell script to run at Boot to apply XTU settings to solve this problem:

How to automatically under-volt in XTU without opening it
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-under-volt-in-xtu-without-opening-it.802143/

Check the 1st post, and then go to the end of the thread to see current comments. @ThatOldGuy 's setup still runs the script fine, others have found they needed to make changes, YMMV.

Please post your best undervolt, or if you decide -100mV does enough for you and you just want to get back to gaming, please let us know that too.

Have fun

 

Thanks for your comprehensive explanation. Would you please take a look to my post as well and answer my questions?

 

Q1 - yup, prime95 especially with new AVX instruction will challenge all laptop CPU's cooling.

I only test prime95 for 5 minutes usually, sometimes 15 minutes for final test, usually if it's going to thermal throttle it will do it in the 5 minute test, and when testing undervolting crash within 5 minutes - if it's going to.

On most laptops prime95 hits so hard so fast that the cooling fans won't ramp up quick enough to stop thermal throttling. So I use the hwinfo64 reset button on the bottom of the interface after the fans have ramped up fully, and then that's a fair test - usually thermal throttling doesn't come back after the fans are up to speed.

Usually I will run 100% fans on prime95 tests, even running the fans for a few minutes before starting the prime95 run, and that is enough to stop thermal throttling during the test.

If you are still getting thermal throttling, undervolt, if that doesn't fix it I'd return the laptop for another one - unless it's a design that can't handle that kind of load - a super thin laptop - then it's just the way it is.

I don't recommend re-pasting if you can't undervolt out of the thermal throttling range, especially if others don't have a problem with that model - their undervolt stops thermal throttling - as it's then a problem with that particular sample/build/unit, so swap for one that doesn't thermal throttle.

Q2 - Set your current Windows Power Plan to Balanced, then go into Advanced Options and set CPU Performance to 0%/100% - Min/Max, so the CPU will downclock after the load is gone, that allows the CPU to cool off between loads.

High Performance power plan will keep the CPU clock high even at idle, causing it to not cool down completely. I only use High Performance Power Plan when benchmarking, otherwise I use Balanced.

Q3 - iGPU tuning is a waste of time. It's stealing power from the CPU budget, so if you undervolt the CPU that should be enough. I make sure not to get Optimus laptops, if it has a MUX and I can switch to iGPU or dGPU, then that tuning can be helpful, but again even in iGPU only mode the CPU / iGPU share power budget and cooling budget so you have to tune both - but that can turn into chasing your tail - change in one ruins settings in other - so I don't worry about it.

TS and XTU settings for just undervolt should have the same result, but TS has other settings which can improve performance, it's not something I play with so go to the thread I posted in the other post to unclewebb 's thread.

For me I get great results OC'ing and undervolting with XTU, and it's the easiest interface I've found to help others that aren't technical - less scary, fewer technical explanations.

It sounds like you are getting a good undervolt, and great temps. You might try disabling AVX in prime95 for small FFT testing, or move to another test choice to reduce load on CPU:

How do you disable AVX in Prime95
http://www.mersenneforum.org/showthread.php?t=21462

How do I turn off AVX in Prime95?
http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-intel-cpus/1631213-how-do-i-turn-off-avx-prime95.html

 

Thanks again. I followed your instruction and here are the results.

As for the first problem, I run the P95 small FFT without the AVX instruction and after cooling the laptop!! I stopped the test after 17 minutes and the system was stable with no error or freeze (same parameters as before, core,cash = -145.5mv and iGPU = -65.4mv). The max Temps were 80 and TDP of 31w. I am pretty happy with the results, although I didn't rerun the test with 0 voltage to compare it. Now here is the question, would you recommend to continue undervolting with the new test (small FFT without AVX) for better voltage? or maybe I should stop since I already got a freeze with AVX on?

For the second problem, I set the CPU Performance to 0%/100% - Min/Max in power plan as you mentioned. However, I noticed no changes neither in Temps nor in CPU speed (still hitting 43 to 48 degrees at idle with CPU speed of 3.00 to 3.4 GHz). So is it normal?!

And finally for the iGPU, shall I leave the voltage the way it currently is (-65.4mv) or should I change it back to 0 voltage?

 

It's unknown to me how you use your laptop, but if you use applications that use AVX, then I'd tune for that enabled - and back off further on your undervolt, +10mV to start... then see if you are stable using 100% CPU using AVX.

Otherwise tune for non-AVX applications, as you have been doing.

But, AFAIK, high power draw similar to AVX could be found by running a combination of other applications, so maybe backing off undervolt +10mV to avoid a random crash down the road might be a good precaution.

You'll have to decide how much of your time is worth investing in trying to perfectly tune it. If you start getting frustrated, reduce the undervolt +10mV - +15mV to assure stability for a while, then get back to finely tuning undervolt later down the road, when your nerve endings are healed and stop arc'ing.

I ended up leaving iGPU settings at defaults, when I realized my iGPU OC'ing stole power and therefore performance from the CPU, I stopped iGPU tuning, there just isn't enough power to go around.

Going the other way, undervolting, there may be similar interactions by undervolting CPU then undervolting iGPU, or the reverse. So I'd keep iGPU at stock and do tuning under CPU.

If you find additional tunings to iGPU after optimizing CPU tuning, and the CPU tuning isn't mal-affected, then please post it.

 

I will throw in a few more of my own 2 cents in my experience with the GS63VR and undervolting. I started with XTU and it is easy, but I couldnt find a consistent way to get it to auto start Windows with the undervolt. ThrottleStop I was able to do that. I started my undervolt at about -165mV on CPU and Cache, so far havent touched the iGPU and probably wont. I used Aida64, not Prime95, Prime is just too unrealistic and overkill. Aida64 I think is a little more realistic and you can stress the GPU simultaneously.

Though I found the best stability test was Battlefield 1. Even undervolts that would last hours in Aida64 would crash after 20 minutes of BF1 playtime. So I just started backing off -5mV at a time on both cpu/cache until I found it stable at about -150mV. So far what was stable in BF1 has been stable on everything else I have used the laptop for. Also my temperatures playing BF1 with the undervolt are about 90~ on the CPU. Though I do run my CPU in comfort mode, and I have custom tuned my fan curve.

 

Would you please post your ThrottleStop settings dialog(s) so others can try ThrottleStop too?

IDK what comfort mode is, that's why I disable DGC and control everything through Windows Power Plan (Balanced for lower temps), XTU, MSI Afterburner, and Silent Option.

See if you can set Balanced Power Plan, CPU Performance 0%/100% in Advanced Options, with DGC installed and running, perhaps that will work.

 

DGC lets you select Power Options, which is the Windows Power Plan, along with their shift modes of ECO, comfort, sport and turbo. So for a while I had DGC set to Power Options using Windows balanced. But lately I have been using the shift comfort mode, not sure how it much it changes how my Windows plan works, which I still have set to balanced 24/7.

When I get home from work I can post my ThrottleStop details. But for now, here is the guide I followed for ThrottleStop undervolting - https://www.reddit.com/r/Lenovo/comments/49uma8/guide_y70015isk_i76700hq_throttlestop_undervolt

 

Cool, so then your CPU temps are still a bit too high... depending on how closely the temperature hugs 90c, or does it spike into it and then drop into the mid to low 80's?

hwinfo64 has a logging option, setting it for 1 sec samples, you can run it while gaming and watch the second by second load vs core/package temps, vs just the peak and average tally.

That's resolved many a worried owner, when they see that high temp only gets hit briefly, sometimes only once in a particular scene, and the rest of the time the CPU temps are reasonable.

Hopefully that's you.

 

90 is absolute max with it usually around 87-89c in BF1, which I found puts the biggest load on my CPU/GPU.

For other games I play, Destiny 2, The Division, Dark Souls 3, Hitman, etc my CPU temperatures are around 75 to 80 max. I have HWinfo installed but I mainly use MSI Afterburner to track GPU/CPU load and temps (peak etc) on the graph during and after game sessions, mainly because I always want to know and tweak something... its a sickness.

 

Ok so following up on this really quick. Here are screenshots of my ThrottleStop settings. For undervolting you will want to access the FIVR settings:



Hopefully that helps

 

Hey guys, at the moment I'm using my GS63VR-7RF at home for work docked to several peripherals on a standing desk and everything is fine so far.

However, I'll have to take it with me on some high-profile client meetings next week and was contemplating if it was possible to remove the MSI Dragon logo from the back of the display.
Has anyone ever done that?

 

Stickers work pretty well, they can cover the emblems, or they can embrace them.

 

Yeah, thanks for the input, but I'd rather not show up with that sticker on it for a client meeting

So, is the Dragon Embleme just a sticker? Does anyone know?

 

If it's lit when on, it's a bit more than a sticker... I don't recall anyone mentioning it being removable.

A sticker is the best option, or a slip case that lets you run it while in the case.

Click the images I posted, and they'll jump to the google searches I used to find them, maybe another sticker will strike you better.

I doubt you really need to worry about it, I wouldn't even mention it, there are plenty of fine upstanding people with MSI laptops and noone thinks any less of them. Besides if someone is petty enough to cast aspersions on you for having one, they're likely not someone you want to do business with.

Besides, when I use my gaming laptop or I wear gaming logo T-shirts out in public, I have the opposite reaction, and I meet some of the nicest people that way.

 

I absolutely agree, but for some business partners, e.g. architects and lawyers, they expect a certain kind of attitude and appearance. Thats fine with me, although I wish it needn't be this way.
The dragon embleme seems not to be glowing when the display is turned on. That makes it more likely being a sticker, but I'm still not convinced

 

Well, I still think you are worrying for nothing, but maybe this will be informative in case you want to change the MSI Shield out for something more acceptable:

GS60 screen and glowing dragon replacement + BLB repair
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...n-replacement-blb-repair.764708/#post-9824829

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...glowing-dragon-replacement-blb-repair.764708/

 

It is definitely more than a sticker, the previous posts show if you remove it you reveal a shield shaped hole where the LCD shines through, I looked into it myself before I bought a GS63VR. I think you can get a less gaudy badge, but again it may not be easy to swap.

I ended up buying my GS63VR used from a guy that had similar reservations since he was using it in professional settings, and he put a skin on the laptop cover and rear hinge. Here is a picture of mine. I was quite interested in the HID version of the GS63VR because they have a super clean and emblem free version... but I couldnt pass up the price on this used one.

 

Hello Everyone
I'm am willing to get one with the 1070 max-q version, so the overall rating is that it doesn't have heating issues and a good battery(more than 4 hours) ?
Any bigger problem that anyone faced? I read many pages but maybe i missed something.


thanks!

 

Hi, @ir1~

I'm very interested in the skin you show in the photo, covering the unit. I ordered my GS63 Stealth with an "unlit" logo on the cover, hoping that would make it less vivid; it looked subdued in the photo I examined before I ordered it. When the laptop actually arrived, however, it was brighter than it had seemed in the photo--not backlit, but definitely there, red and feisty.

Now, no one is going to judge me on the basis of that logo; that doesn't bother me. I just prefer plain and simple.

Do you happen to know where the previous owner got the skin? And have you found that it does not impair the unit's performance in any way (get it too hot, make it hard to open/close, etc.)?

I can certainly live with the logo, since that wasn't the reason I bought the GS63. But if there's a simple way of toning it down--like applying that skin--I'd love to know about it.

Thanks!

--Sona

 

No issues at all with heat or hinge etc. You can still see MSI and the logo shape, but the skin doesnt cover any airflow. It covers the top, the back hinge (including the Stealth verbage and red accents on the back). The skin was also over the front third of the inside in front of the keyboard, so it covered the tackpad and steelseries logo, but I removed that, didnt like how that looked.

I am not sure where the prev owner got the skin. I know that you can still get skins for it, but some actually have a cutout for the MSI logo, so obviously avoid that. I will do some looking around to see if I can find the one that matches what I have and post it.

I will throw my two cents in and that I personally am with you. I just like low-key straight forward looking devices. Neon or catchy accents, sharp edges, big logos, no thanks.....

 

Thank you so much for offering to check on this, @ir1! I'll Google around, too, but I doubt I'll succeed. I believe most people who buy the MSI gaming laptops want the logo (I don't think there would have been nine color options for the backlit look if it weren't a popular add-on!), and I can totally understand that. But that might make skins for the MSI hard to find.

I'm not a gamer--but I love what I've bought (I'm still getting to know it, of course). It's a wonderful laptop for what I do, affordable and both sturdy and lightweight; I haven't stressed it yet, but so far it's quiet as well. I couldn't ask for more...unless it would be tweaking the aesthetics slightly by toning down the outer dragon emblem and re-siting the large sticker from the right of the touchpad (identifying what's inside) to the underside of the unit. Beyond that, I'm very pleased with the design and feel of my GS63.

 

Just my 2 cents here, but I feel that skin looks kinda cheap on this beautiful laptop and the logo still is visible that it's covered making it even uglier than when it is lit. Also that fake looking shine from the skin looks very cheap. It never bothered me personally I'm always looking at the screen and I rarely even close the lid so I don't know that it's there. Just my 2 cents but do what you feel looks better to you.