MSI GS63VR Stealth Pro Owner's Lounge

Hi!
Quick question - is there currently a confirmed full-on 1070 (not max Q) GS laptop (GS63 or GS73), or is it still just rumours?
Thanks!

 

No, the nVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 is not available in the GS series.

 

So now I have an odd issue that I am completely lost on fixing. My LAN/Ethernet Adapter has completely disappeared from the Device Manager, Network Adapter page etc. HWinfo cant see it, its gone. So maybe it just plain died? Cant install drivers, Killer Suite says I dont have the adapter so I cant install the drivers/suite of software. Checked Bios to see if I turned it off somehow, I cant see a setting related. It isnt disabled in Device Manager and I dont have any un-identified devices needing a driver. It just plain disappeared. Anyone seen something like this before?

 

yeah that happened to me on my MSI GT73VR Titan Pro.

Try re-settings BIOS to defaults

 

Tried it, no dice... still doesnt show up. Even tried PCI-z, no luck, doesnt show in that either.

 

you see with me, this was a bug in the previous BIOS. If I switched from the Intel HD Graphics to the nVIDIA Graphics through the BIOS rather than through SCM, sometimes it would disable my LAN/WLAN altogether they won't even appear in device manager. simply switching back to the Intel HD Graphics via SCM (using the dedicated graphics switch button on the right) fixed it. then I would switch back to the nVIDIA Graphics using the button and it'd be fine. This has been fixed in the latest BIOS now even if I switch graphics from the BIOS the LAN/WLAN don't get disabled. I don't know what to suggest for you though since you don't have a graphics switch button because I think you run both graphics together (Optimus)

Other than making sure you are updated to the latest BIOS, install System Control Manager, and finally format if all those don't help, I can't think of anything else.

 

Hey good news! There was a bios update as of a couple weeks ago for the 6RF version of the GS63VR. The update was simply for the Intel Security issue to allow a firmware update. I before that I had the latest bios, anyway I flashed to that and boom my Ethernet Adapter shows back up now. Good call!

 

Thanks bro, be smart, be like Phoenix >>>

 

Sorry I some how missed this follow up question. You can hit I think F12 or F8? Someone correct me, to load the Windows Recovery to do a fresh install of Windows, but I think reinstalling like this loads the MSI Windows Image, so that would take you back to square one... can someone confirm? Again look in past posts for "clean install" and you will find more details. You can also download/install the Windows 10 installer on a thumb drive directly from Microsofts website. I would copy anything you want to save to the HDD, then when you do a clean install you can have it wipe/format the drive at that time. My favorite undervolt software is ThrottleStop. Look for posts from me in this thread I have a pretty detailed one on what I did with ThrottleStop and links I recommend instruction.

 

Clean image is good if you know what to do, such as installing all of the latest drivers and applications. Also, when you perform a clean install you will lose the factory recovery image.

 

Yo. Like a lot of people, I bought the best buy version and I've wanted to change my display for a while now.

I'm about to order the AU OPTRONICS B156HAN04.3 off ebay, which is a 30-pin 1080p 120hz ips screen.
Two questions about upgrading the display I couldn't specifically find in my research.

1. Is the computer even capable of upgrading to this screen?
2. With a 1060 and without g-sync, if i upgrade to 120hz is it even worth it?

I didn't have that much interest in improving my refresh rate, but I've heard it makes viewing much smoother.
Your thoughts? I'm hopping on a plane back home tomorrow and will buy the screen immediately with any sort of confirmation.

THANKS IN ADVANCE YOU BEAUTIFUL HUMAN BEINGS

 

1. Yes, since it's a direct replacement.
2. Yes, because 120Hz will provide more headroom than G-Sync display which commonly has 75Hz. Note mobile display is inferior when compared with desktop gaming monitors which can do G-Sync on 144Hz now.

 

Hey guys, just brought the gs63vr few days ago but there are few thing make me concerned. Can you guys show me the temperature when you playing games on it? I saw the reviews on youtube or notebookcheck and they showed that the CPU temp is only above 90 to 95 Celsius when push both the CPU and GPU in 100% performance but when they play The witcher 3 the temp did not rise to that. But when I play any game like AC syndicate, Far Cry 4, the CPU temp always go up to 90 and 95 Celsius. The GPU temp when I play games is the same in the review but the CPU is much higher than in the review.

Another is the HDD some time has the sound like something inside it go to the lock or hit the case of the HDD case and it always happen when I turn off the laptop, sometimes it can happen when I surfing the web. Do you guys' laptop have the same sound of HDD? Since I used some laptops (all of them have HDD) but I never heard a sound from a HDD like that.

 

I'd like to buy a GS63VR soon. I'm undecided between the 1050Ti and the 1060 version. Seems like the battery is the same size and anything else. But only 50$ difference. Anything that speaks for the 1050Ti? Seems that power consumption isn't noticably different.

I'll buy in US, but mostly use it in Canada. Any dealer who'd be fine with that in case of warranty issues?

@David_HN
That HDD clicking is probably just the heads parking when you turn it off. It can be very loud and startling, is however a normal thing. It can also happen in operation for thermal calibration or when a g-load is sensed and heads are parked to prevent damage.

 

The GS63VR sold in the USA comes with a Global Warranty. If you buy it pure stock, you can seek warranty repair in either the USA or Canada...or any country that has an MSI warranty service center.

If you get upgrades, the dealer that does the upgrades will be responsible for warranty service on those upgrades, but as long as you buy from an Authorized MSI BTO (Build to Order) dealer, like HIDevolution.com, your MSI Global Warranty is still in effect.

For more details, email me at [email protected]

 

Could be the HDD is going bad, seems unlikely. You might want to run some diagnostics on it or speed tests and make sure you don't store anything on there you aren't afraid of losing until you are sure it is ok... but still backup often.

Temperature wise, I saw low 90's temps in certain games before I setup my undervolt. Get familiar with the Dragon Center and the different modes, I run my GS63VR in comfort mode 24/7... havent felt the need to go Turbo or anything else, so check that. Also you can tweak the fan profile for both the CPU and GPU. I use a custom fan curve and bias the fans to the GPU, mostly because there are two GPU fans so its quieter and a cooler GPU should help keep the CPU somewhat cooler. Though undervolting is going to make the most noticeable difference in plugged in gaming temps, and unplugged battery life.

 

For $50 more... I say definitely go with the 1060. Performance wise it is a noticeable step up and I do not believe it is going to make much difference in battery life mainly because of Optimus, you are still using the iGPU for most tasks.

 

Hi ive changed the screen twice on mine....and im thinking about doing the same thing but that screen doesnt seem to be a 120hz display u need B156HTN05.2

 

Actually it is. The only 120 hz ips panel around. Confirmed by Donald@HIDevolution on another thread I found on google.
I'm about to install it now, will see how it goes.

I actually had a similar question. On games I'm averaging around 90 degrees on my CPU AFTER undervolting and repasting using liquid metal. My GPU is averaging mid-high 80s. Is this within the expected temperature range on this labtop?

 

Check your mount. You probably have a bad heatsink mount.
Post your MAXIMUM temps on all cores. You can use Throttlestop for this. Please do that.
Run Cinebench R15 and do a CPU test, and have Throttlestop running. Post the throttlestop screenshot at the end.

 

I recently bought the GS63VR, and it seemed to suite my needs; powerful in terms of gaming, portable, nice looking and - suitable as a student laptop. However, I can't get it to run perfectly quiet. Semester is starting soon, and I don't think it will be quiet enough to comfortably use it in a library where other students are studying close to me. Any tips on how I can get it to run quietly? It's of course the fan that is always making some noise, however definitely not loud, but loud enough to notice in a quiet room. I don't care if I lose performance as long as I can change it back when I get home. I tried using the battery saving mode, and manually choose "lowest" on fan speed in MSI Dragon Center. Thanks

I might add - as I am studying I am only using the computer for basic things like Word and browsing. I have also disabled a lot of the bloatware on startup, so I don't have a lot of programs running in the background. I also tried making my own power plan, in which is a power plan where I set CPU minimum power to 5% and maximum to 50%, but one might still hear the fan. I also installed Firefox as a web browser as Chrome takes up more resources. Temperatures on idle is 45-50C.

 

do you have a Logitech Mouse by any chance?

 

Let me know im interested in doing the same!!

 

What config id yours come with?

 

Nope, ADX Gaming Mouse

 

ok then, that's not it it seems as the Logitech Gaming Software can do that.

Next, if you have Chrome installed, go to settings > advanced and untick the box which says keep Chrome running in the background

also, run task manager and see what process is using a lot of CPU

 

I have managed to keep my laptop cool now (around 35-40C when just browsing or typing in Word), and temperatures are relatively stable even if the fans show 0 RPM in MSI Dragon Center. However - even though fans show 0 RPM in MSI Dragon Center, there is still a constant, relatively low but noticeable (when studying in a quiet library) fan noise coming from the right of my laptop. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the GS63VR has 2 GPU fans on the left, and 1 CPU fan on the right? Meaning that even if MSI Dragon Center shows 0 RPM for the CPU fan, it's still running? Can I override this in any way? I can't get software like MSI Afterburner or Speedfan to detect my fans. The fans on the left is unnoticeable.

 

you are sure that this model fits on the laptop msi gs63vr 7rf, the seller on ebay told me that it would be NOT compatible. What to Choose for a Laptop 120hz N156HHE-GA1? AUO B156HAN04.3 or B156HTN05.2? now N156HGA-EAL

 

UPDATE: Fans really are off (I can see the fans through the chassis under the notebook), and there is a low, constant sound below my CPU that kinda sounds like a fan, but isn't. Anyone who knows what that can be?

 

Do you still have the stock HDD installed? That could be making the noise while spinning. If it bothers you, replace it with an SSD.

 

Thanks for reply! Yea that would be logical. I am adding a link below to where the noise comes from, downloaded internals picture from google. The area inside the circle. Is this where the HDD is?

https://ibb.co/go1hwm

Also, is there any way to momentarily disable the disk to test is the sound disappears? After listening some more it actually might come from where the HDD is.

 

Well, the disk is right below that circle (to the left of the battery). The area you circled doesn't have anything that should be making noise. On the other side of that area is the M.2 SSD and random capacitors/chips/etc.

You can open Disk Management and take the HDD offline and see if the noise goes away.

 

I don't have an "offline" option in Disk Management. However I tried disabling the disk in device management, but I still heard the sound. I also tried disabling the disk through diskpart, but the noise is still there. Are you sure that the disk stops spinning even though it's offline? It probably is the HDD.

 

Right click in the area I circled in red and select "Offline". Note that the disk may not immediately spin down, but after some time of inactivity (since Windows can no longer access the disk) it should.

This is the only way I know of powering down a disk without physically removing it. That being said, it's super easy to open the bottom panel and remove it if you want.

 

I don't have an offline option when I right click, however it says that it is offline when I turn the disk offline in diskpart. I have read elsewhere that as long as the HDD is connected it will spin anyway. In power management I set it to turn off after 1 minute of inactivity, but I don't know if it helps. I'll run the computer for a while and see if I notice any difference. Otherwise I will probably have to buy an SSD, but I will have to damage my warranty sticker in that case.

 

I love you, sometimes the HDD is quiet, sometimes it makes noise, so it's better than it was. I talked to customer service and they said that a HDD replacement wouldn't ruin the warranty. I send you lots of hugs and kisses, I have spent so many hours on figuring this out<3

 

Well I'm glad you've hopefully figured it out! I'd recommend a decent SSD to replace it. That way you know it'll be silent, plus much faster.

 

Hoping to find some help here on this amazing machine. I just repasted and replaced the hdd with an sad. Put everything together to make sure it worked and it booted fine. After adjusting the components and closing it all up well. Now the display doesn't turn on but an external monitor works. The only thing I havent done yet is pop open the screen to make sure the connector is still snug. But now I'm stuck in a reinstall of Windows 10 without a display and it won't recognize the external display now. Any thought? Thanks in advance!

 

Yo. Been busy getting back into school so I just got around to ****ing with my labtop again.

****. The ebay seller pulled that 'compatible panel' **** on me. The hardware ID was CMN15D3, which is a Chi Mei N156HCE-EAA.
Specs: http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=28558&ser_order=panel_part_number&ser_by=asc
I've ordered the same panel again from Ebay, but it'll take 3 weeks to arrive from China. When it does, I'll get back to you and the other dude. No reason it wouldn't work though, so I'd start looking around Ebay for offers including photos with the actual model number.

Hi. I'm not sure what you mean by bad mount, but I just checked again. I redid the electrical tape around the dies perfectly, made sure the Liquid metal was spread thin and evenly, and tightened all of the heatsink screws in a cross-pattern. I was able to put the motherboard, back cover, and hinge back and boot up without issue. I even used dust cleaner and alcohol to clean the fans. The only thing I can think of might be the thermal pad thickness. I replaced all of the stock ones with 0.5mm pads, so maybe they're too thin to fill the gaps between the cpu/gpu and heatsink?

Anyways, as requested here are load temps: https://imgur.com/a/M2BC6
https://imgur.com/a/5sxRG (undervolted -0.130V)

And the Cinebench R15 CPU Test: https://imgur.com/a/H7Knf

It seems like a lot of people are easily going 90+ degrees gaming on this labtop, but after repasting twice to no effect I'm pretty sure somethings wrong with my labtop, unless the cooling solution is just that bad. I'm off to smoke a bit, sorry for the late reply. Any help is appreciated :O

 

Yes ...shouldn't be a problem ive seen the specs and pictures of the panel....i havent done it cause ive done it twice already and havent used my laptop all that much lately but its soethig i plan on doing in the coming months...might buy the panel this month probably...its really isnt that hard though....the one i have on right now is way way better than the stock lg one it came with so no complaints.

 

YEah i hate that compatible panel deal though...cause sometimes the compatible panel is not the same quality as the one you really want...but let me know cause who knows....i know the AUO panels are pretty good and would be inclined to getting one of those.

 

The only thing i would love for the next revision is for them to go back to the same audio quality of the GS60 speakerwise....the GS60 is leagues above the gs63vr when it comes to onboard speaker sound quality

 

Yeah the speakers on the GS63VR are just atrocious. I would love to replace them with something better, good luck though. The GS60 speakers look too big and different enough where they wouldnt fit.

 

Your wish will be granted. The next gen GS6x will have MUCH better audio.

I love the way MSI actually listens to their customers.

 

Well that is good news. I wonder if it will be compatible with the GS63VR 6RF, so I can swap them out. Not sure how possible it would be to get the parts, but at least it is good to know if I upgrade to the next generation that they have taken corrective action on known negatives.

 

Problem is ..will the upgrade as a whole be worth it...I mean next gen gpus arent here yet...and wouldn’t make sense to outright buy anew laptop just for the speakers alone

 

Gotta wait and see, but if it's a refresh then skip and wait for the next round of release.

 

Totally agree...at the pace things are going i think pruchasing a new gaming laptop every couple of years is gonna be best to updating my desktop...with GPU prices what they are due to mining and DDR4 mem i think im better served upgrading my gaming laptop every 24 to 36 months...hopefully external GPU technology will improve to where we can get real close to desktop performance thru thunderbolt.

 

Hi! I disassembled my GS63VR to replace HDD with SSD and to apply thermal paste. Now my USB 3.0 and audio ports don't work. I suspect maybe I didn't connect them well enough to the motherboard, but the screws under the laptop have been raped so my screwdriver won't fit, so I can't access the internals now. Could it be software? It's probably hardware lol. Any suggestions?

 

Unfortunately it is most likely that the cables are not connected properly, or you broke the little cable locks.

It is very important to use the correct size screwdriver when removing the bottom panel, and not tightening the screws too much when you replace it, so you don't strip the screw heads.

Did you register your warranty within 30 days of your ship date? If you did, you should have the 1 Year "No Oops" accidental damage protection so that you can file a warranty claim to have it repaired.