*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Camt go below 26 on the 9th gens believe me a tried...also i had to repaste like 7 times, this meant board out 7 times at least..stress test and go back,clean and do it all over......on both gpu +cpu so trust when i say take ur time....also i ended up using ICD when my first few tried were with CM Maker Nano.......in the end with me getting the hang of repasting and ICD under combined stress test 45w+80w at 3.6-3.7ghz mine settle 88-90 on 3 cores adn5 degrees difference with the other 3..something i tried to correct with every repaste but i believe this is a problem with my heatsink at this point and the ony solution would be to lap it and didnt want to void the warranty on it.....i ordered an extre heatsink and might mess a bit with that one later on and see what i can find out......also just use the TPL in TS set ur turbo limit to 20-22 when ur going to gem just set it to 42 i found speedshift setting helps alot alos C-state when it cme to battery and thermals i have 4 settings on mine 1.bench/stress testing 2. Gaming
3.internet and regular use 4.battery..fan curve is set to max 110 on cpu and 100 on gpu

 

Hi,
just repaste and change thermal pads on my laptop, very good news ! it took me 3h because i took the time to get every little parts of thermal pads well positioned and in contact with the HT.
Results are excellents ! On full load now I reach my goal of having it steady 3.7GHz, the temperature are 87°c Max. I can probably reach 4GHz steady but I might have to look at my fan profile and change the undervolt. The good things is that I am not reaching any limitations now keeping my turbo ratio at 37 on all cores.
For the test on battery, I don't see a big difference with the one before repaste. It seems that the NH2 thermal paste is good on high load. My idle temperature are probably a little lower now because even by writing this comment on battery with 2 additional screens plugged, fan are still off ! (very good)
Before repasting, I tried really hard to get the heatsink perfectly fitted on the CPU and GPU, I did some print of the contact surfaces by putting very thin tape on the Heatsink surface, add some highlighter on it (the tape), put a thin peace of paper on the CPU and GPU. Assemble both part to get the print. I bent the heatsink depending on the results. This time, I applied the thermal paste in thin layer instead of the drop as usual on the CPU.

Even with that method, I still have 7°c discrepancy between cores, when on heavy load. I believe this heatsink is not that good.​

I also add the thermal pad with the copper on my main ssd, I don't see big difference.

If someone can explain me how to load the pictures on this forum, I will post screenshots and picture of the method to do the print.
Thank you guys

 

Well the GS66 is out and seems like a marginal improvement in build quality, i do like the flat black look...definitely conforms more to the stealth name.....one thing to look out for will be if later in the future we would be able to use these newer fans on our gs65 that's something imma look into further down the line as from the pics i could see in the presentation seems like the same heatsink design and would make sense as they improved material thickness but most probably kept the same molds...

 

On another note..My CPU temps....though 6-7 degrees lower than stock per core on average and 200-300,Mhz more after repaste and repad and UV with TS (22 minute run of combined aida+unigen) is still crazy uneven say 5 degrees per core, ive repasted like 7 times trying to figure this out tried that 0.5mm pad instead of 1.0mm on the chips above the cpu , but found that they made ver lil contact to heatsink like that and didnt really improve anything...anyone here try bending that little arm where the lone screw on the heatsink cpu part goes to try and get it to apply more pressure? i bought a new heatsink/fan assembly so i can have a stock one on hand as i will at some point try to lap the heatsink and maybe try bending that little arm a bit to see if i can get it to apply more pressure...if i can get that to work and have the hotter 3 cores within 2-3 degress of the rest that'll mean a 10 degree drop and most probably no thermal throttling..also GPU never goes past 75...duvk we have to go to these extremes to fix what MSI could've done on their own (also i did do all the bios tweaks) need to do the intelgpu one to remove edp other limit

 

I bent one of the arms, it's only a temporary fix.

After about 2 weeks temperatures start climbing again, and 2 months it will return to "stock".

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Feeling like an idiot. I have the rtx2060 model, and just added a second SSD. After putting everything back together, I now get no response at all from the display. No flicker, no post. Nada. I can connect an external monitor via HDMI, and that works fine. I assume I accidentally pulled a connection on the MB or similar. I've disassembled and reassembled the thing multiple times and haven't seen any bad connections. Same result each time. Dead attached display.

Does anyone have a schematic of MB and/or display connections? Msi support gave me a an illustrated step by step teardown guide for an earlier model, and again I can't see any missing connections.

Otherwise I'm stumped. Open to any other ideas.

 

Maybe this cable:

 

Thanks for the response. Yeah, that's the main one I keep trying to reseat to see if it was off slightly.

I'm going to do another tear down and take some pictures.

 

hi,

is there any way software wise, to limit the Battery Charge to 80% while plugged in?
I had this option in my former Lenovo, and I would like to set it here also, because I use the thing usually plugged, and I don't want to stress the battery at 100% all the time.

best regards,
Alin

 

I believe you can use Dragon Center and have it charge under 70% to 80 or 50% to 60.

Then I think you disable the program if you don't want to use it and still have the calibrations.

 

hi there,

thank you for your reply. the problem is that I don't have that Battery Master in Dragon Center.

I researched the problem a bit, did update the BIOS and EC but no luck, still no Battery Master for me.

GS65 8SE 2019, 8750H + RTX 2060 if that matters...

best regards,
Alin

 

Try uninstalling and reinstalling:

https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GS65-Stealth-8SE#down-utility&Win10 64

 

It seems to me that this functionality is not available on the 8th generation of Core.

 

I have the 8SE version as well, I do have the Battery Master options. I usually have mine set on "Best of Battery"

 

uninstalling Dragon Center and reinstalling it did the trick, I have now the battery master tab available. thanks @specialist7!

another thing I fixed today (wrote on the other lounge for the 2018 model) was the GPU light always being orange... and battery being ****.
the only thing (and I did like every solution found on the webs) was to reset the PC to original state. not even the clean start managed to help me with the issue.

do you guys know how the wiring to the USB type C port is made? if I'll be hoking up an external display to it can I force the output to be rendered by the internal GPU? currently using some of the time an 4K display on the HDMI port, but that means that I always have the dGPU active.

br,
Alin

 

Some stupid program is trying to use Nvidia - you have to search one by one which one and then force it to use Intel. I had several programs that did it and it was a pita to go thru a lot of programs to find the culprit.

 

That is a weird one with the application, it is interesting to see that it had been fixed after reinstall.

 

Hi ive been looking at some reviews on the max 15...Bob form youtube does this tweak where he limits the cpu to 35 watts to try and squeeze more out of the gpu anyone try this on our gs65?

 

Interesting concept, I have not. If you give it a try report back. I assume 3.2GHz should be plenty for games, unsure how much wattage that is though.

Unfortunately I have the 180W power supply.

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same her ei only have the 180w im just trying to understand why he does it

 

Am I wrong or did he say something about having extra 35W for the GPU as in from 80W to 115W and not about CPU?

 

Anyone have a 90w Vbios for the 2060 in which we keep the DP working as well as everything else?

 

From what I have heard, razer blade 90w VBIOS maintains mDP functionality.

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The question is, does their GPU module have the same or different design on mDP signal connectivity versus MSI's? VBIOS controls certain behaviors in the hardware but sometimes the limitations reside in the HW itself.

 

has anyone tried it out? I need the DP for VR...but i think id like the bit of speed bump the 90w bios gets me..its either that or thinking bout buying a tongfang cause of pricing and 115w gpu
or maybe just building an htpc with a 2070 super or something but that wouldnt be a very mobile solution...choces...choices...

 

which one are you using?

 

I am using the Asus Strix II VBIOS. mDP doesn't work.

I have not bothered flashing the razer one. I ended up giving the laptop to the wife for work.

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Wow, what u keep for urself then? also u are on generous hubby good on you!!Roughly how much FPS on avaerage did u gain with the 90w bios and did u have any issues with battery drain?

 

13" MID-2012 MBP a friend donated to me, I upgraded the RAM, added an SSD and and swapped the optic drive for an extra storage caddy, my wife needed the stronger rig for her design tasks at work, and she never gave it back when she was finished ::Facepalm::

Regarding performance gains-

To be honest I am not really sure, I flashed VBIOS as soon as I sold my 2018 gs65 and bought the 2019. I know I was one of the top scores on firestrike, I think my best was 25, but there were only 5 of us up there at the time for the 8750h with a mobile rtx 2060.

As far as battery life, I didn't test, my laptop was always plugged in.


I would image the gain is not more than 10 or 15 FPS, JRey wrote on his blog his results pre and post flash on the gs65 with rtx2080, I forget his results. He ended up sticking to stock if I am not mistaken, the increased temps didn't justify small gain in FPS.

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*found it

 

Has anyone tried the display overdrive setting in the new dragon center?

 

So I had an MSI GS65 some time last year with the 2080MQ before returning it because I was not happy with the thermals even after some intense modifications that was borderline warranty breaking.

Just bought a new one recently at $1K off ebay (9SE) with 240hz, 9th gen cpu, 32GB RAM, 2060 (not MQ), but lacks a wifi6 card.

Anyone know if the AX200 or AX201 is supported? I have a wifi6 setup at home and my AW51m is the only one benefiting from the gigabit wireless speeds.

Edit: If wondering why I bought a gs65 again, its because I needed a smaller machine for flights and for school. Dont want to lug the A51m while carrying books and more.

 

What model of WiFi 6 wireless router do you have?
You should be using AX200 since it's PCIe interface whilst AX201 uses Intel proprietary CNVio2 interface.

 

AX200 is fine just gt that...i ave the same gs65 and it worked just fine

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...cussions-lounge.827160/page-188#post-10963116

Here you go good sir.

 

ASUS AX11000 Rapture. I have the AX200 ready, just wondering if the AX201 is better or not. Guess AX200 it is!

Perfect.

Thanks! Are those M.2 copper blocks expensive? How is the fit within that thin chassis? Where did you install those pads? Between the two?

 

Nah I think I got 2 for $10. And fits perfectly fine!

https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Heatsinks-Cooler-Laptop（2-Pack）/dp/B07XD8M43P/



I was going to use my thermal grizzly minus8 pad but I got lazy and used the ones that came with it and it works fine. I believe there's two sizes one is slightly thicker than the other. I don't remember but maybe I put the thicker one on the top. Depends if your nvme is double sided or not in some cases you can cut it off if it causes additional pressure on the nand and it doesn't really need cooling as much as the controller does.

 

Finished repasting with mx4 (not doing LM as this unit isn't worth the time and worry for hardcore performance and gaming). AX200 shows up under devices, but I cannot update drivers until I am back from work 6 hrs from this post. I ordered that pkg and will probably install a set quickly since I want the system quiet 80% of time unless my 'chad' team starts doing runs in Tarkov.

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I just got a brand new gs65 stealth 8se i7 8750 RTX2060 from XoticPC with a CPU/GPU repaste. I ran the benchmark in Forza Horizon 4 on mostly Ultra settings, which the game autodetected, while monitoring temps with HWinfo and my CPU cores hit the mid to high 90C. I haven't tried undervolting or lowering the maximum processor state in power settings but doesn't this seem high out of the box especially after paying for a repaste with, supposedly, a better compound?

 

That's normal in any thin form factor. You are also playing on Ultra which is making it run harder than normal. It is always recommended to undervolt any slim machine because the cooling system is never adequate enough. This is why I have a portable gaming machine like the Alienware Area 51m for when I really want to play higher settings. You may also want to look into limiting some CPU usage or play at fixed frames so it wont work as hard.

 

I understand that, but every review of this machine that I watched prior to purchasing said "Good thermals, no throttling" so I assumed that with a repaste it would be even better. I believe the thermals were just as high when I just played the game and not benchmarking...pretty disappointing. Not sure whether I should start tinkering with undervolting and purchasing coolers or just RMA it and get something else.

 

The good thermals has always been in comparison to those in its class. If you do not wish to take it upon yourself to setup the machine to behave in the manner you want, the unit may not be for you. Usually if you want thermals and noise to be more mild, you would go the next class up in laptops. If you unlock the BIOS, make changes to undervolt, and play at settings with more focus on increasing performance efficiency and not visuals, you would get less heat.

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I understand that undervolting helps and am willing to do it, that's not my question - my question is if this type of temperature is normal out of the box or is something wrong with my particular machine, because if it is, I'd rather get it replaced than tinker with the settings.

 

This is normal, even on new machines from other brands no matter the class.

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Ideally, you are looking at temps capped out by 90C out of the box. I think the highest I have ever seen in my laptop without any tinkering is around 93-94C on the CPU. With proper mods, the temps can be brought down to around 82-85C.

 

Hello. Let me start by saying that I have the exact same model and your machine is not defective.

Now then, the reason why the conversation so far hasn't gone anywhere is that you're only looking at temps. What repasting, undervolting etc does is allow the CPU to run at a higher frequency before hitting its thermal/power limit. Stating your laptop is hitting 90+C under a specific load, isn't as useful as "In this scenario the CPU is hitting 94° at 3.2GHz."

I do own FH4 but can't recall my temps or frequency. I'll take a look over the next day or so. For now, let me use Cinebench R20 to illustrate what I said since I know those figures by heart at this point.

With only bios tweaks that fool the power limit and no undervolt, R20 causes my cpu to reach the thermal limit at 3.2GHz. Repasted with liquid metal and undervolted, it still hits the same temps but it does so at 3.6GHz. With all the fun stuff done to it, my cpu can do the whole render at 3.9GHz and 88-89°C. These figures will change somewhat depending on ambient air temperature.

Your original question is akin to asking why your new Ferrari isn't going 100MPH through your neighborhood. The harder you push your system, the hotter it gets until either thermal or electrical limits are reached. Period.

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How did your ram oc go? I have Bdie 2666 running at 3200 17 19 19 and no matter what speed/timings i threw at them, could not get below 10ns. Lowest I could get was 2933@15 15 15.

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Hahah tbh ive been lazy with my laptop tweaks, its been running everyday fine at 3200-18-18-18-38-500-1T

 

See if it'll run CL16. I've been curious about the latency plateau since I bought mine last year. Gskil and corsair have 4x8GB 4000MHz (cl 18 and 19, respectively) sodimms now. Cant imagine they'd post with that profile in the gs

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After giving this laptop a lot of crap when it had the 2080MQ... this 2060 variant doesn't have as many complaints and the display is far better than the initial 8S. Still fine tuning the temperature controls so it runs with very mild noise (almost perfect on The Division 2. On Escape From Tarkov, it almost makes no noise).