*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

This laptop will be dead in a matter of weeks / months. LM is already on the GPU capacitors. Get it fixed ASAP - replace the kapton tape and LM. You can get that tape for cheap on Aliexpress.

Honestly, I this condition I'd probably just polish the heatsinks and the die's, throw standard TIM on both and sell it or use it as it is.
These photo's are a perfect example that kapton tape does absolutely nothing, if you apply too much LM, it will leak from underside anyways.

 

Hey awsan, Malaysian here as well.

Been very happy with my LM repaste on my GS75 for since July.

I'm not sure how HIDEvolution's liquid metal repasting process goes but i plated my heatsinks with liquid metal first, let the copper absorb the gallium, clean off the dry indium and tin, then apply a sufficient amount of liquid metal. I did this as a precautionary step against the liquid metal drying up too quickly. The "chipping" you see on the heatsinks could be the leftover dry indium and tin after the gallium was absorbed into the heatsink. The heatsink itself is fine.

Now about the liquid metal spills, you can easily get them off with some cotton buds and alcohol. But if HIDevolution already coated the surrounding smds with a non-conductive barrier (Ie : clear nail polish) AS THEY SHOULD , then it shouldnt be a problem. If not, good luck.

Concerning the foam dams, i remember it took me 5-6 hours and many sponges to get it just the right thickness across the entire dam, but then again, i only had an xacto knife. I thought HIDevolution would have a specialised tool of some sort to make their foam dams quickly and perfectly. Guess i was wrong.

One thing I am concerned about are those cpu temps. They should not be that high at all. My GS75 only runs the cpu at 80°C while gaming and that is with the imon slope tweak so that it runs at 4ghz all core. Not to mention that the GE75 has a much beefier heatsink compared to the GS75. The gpu on the other hand is running about as expected. Yours IS a 115w gpu compared to my 90w gpu after all. That and the gpu isnt as picky about the thermal interface material. Going from stock paste to liquid metal only netted me a 2°C temp reduction.

 

Forgive me for getting into the point directly but if I may ask:
1- how did you clean the heat sink? just alcohol and arm grease or something hard and chip it ?

2- Just putting alcohol on Q-tips will be enough to clean the liquid metal with out making it run around?

3-How did you manage to level the damn? what do you recommend me to do and what height should I aim for?

4-Which clear nail polish did you use that will handle 100+ degrees with out liquefying again?

Thanks

 

1. For cleaning up JUST the gallium and tin residue, I used a dry Q-tip.

2. Roll it on the Q-tip

3. Trial and error. Just slowly slicing it until I get it right. I used 2mm thickmess but it depends on how high the die relative to the surface you're sticking the foam to. You want it to be the same height as the surface of the die


4. It doesn't get that hot. 70-80°C maybe but not 100+

 

I was wondering, are the stock thermal pads reusable? I have some Mastergel Maker still laying around that I could put to a good use but I have no spare thermal pads.

 

They come with paste on the Vrms and memory instead of thermal pads if I'm not mistaken so you'll need to get thermal pads as well. 0.5mm for gddr6 and 1mm for everything else.

 

Not touching that then. Weirdly configured notebook though, at stock the CPU is constantly bouncing from 95*C power limit and undervolting only makes the clock higher rather than lowering temps.
Limiting the all-core boost to x35-36 in Throttlestop makes the temps manageable but still in the mid-high 80's when playing the latest GRID.

 

That's surprising coming from HID evolution. They pride themselves in their LM application. I actually got LM aswell but went with GenTech PC. Hope your able to work everything out friend.

Honestly it may be best for you to do some kryonaut thermal paste(non conductive). Its the best non-conductive paste in my opinion.

 

Those liquid metal pics need a NSFW warning. Yikes.

I will stick with my Kryonaut.

I agree with everything you said, other than Ampere being a mere 20% jump over Turing. The shrink to 7nm will bring much larger dividends, more likely in the 40% performance range. You need look no further than what 7nm has done for AMD, where their mid-range cards (RX 480/580/590) went from battling the GTX 1060 to now (RX 5700 series) sparring with the upper end RTX cards. The 5700 XT is exactly 41% faster than the RX 590 at 1080p, 42% at 1440p and 4K. There's pretty much no way Nvidia doesn't see such gains.

Waiting nearly a year is a mother though, it's easier said than done. I am in the final decision process of acquiring an RTX 2080 equipped GE75 within the week myself, just with the i7-9750H instead. I want the 9880H badly, I just don't think its $900 premium can be recouped if I decide to sell the laptop in a year.

On the topic of the octo-cores, I have a strong feeling that Intel's 9750H successor in the 10-series is going to be an 8 core/8 thread CPU. If I want 8 cores right now, I will probably target the GT76 DT-90, which has the i7-9700K/RTX 2080 and can be had these days for around $2700.

 

I don't believe they will make 8C/16T popular in laptops. 9750h is already unsuitable, the TDP is too high for a laptop and the poor thing throttles to oblivion. 95-98*C on stock and even in games is insanity.
I suppose Area 51m could work with 9750h but stuff like a Zephyrus, GP, GL, GS or even te GE? Nah. Especially not if the GPU heatpipes are linked to the cpu heatsink.

There is one 8C CPU that would work in a laptop and that would be anything Zen2 based, 7nm. 2.5-2.7GHz base and 3.5-3.7GHz boost.

At the moment 7700HQ or the 7820/6820HK equivalent is the maximum what I'd put in a gaming laptop. My ASUS runs 70-73*C in Aida64 stress test with -120mV undervolt and LM - perfect, absolutely OK for a gaming notebook but 90-98*C with the 9750H is not okay, not sure what MSI is doing but with the MSI the clock rises a lot when you lower the voltage so undervolting itself doesn't do much if you don't cut the TDP down.

 

A process shrink does not promise a massive performance boost. Remember the 5960x? That was built on the 22nm process. 3700x is 7nm and is roughly 5% faster. I know they are two different chips.. but still. We will see. In either case.

 

Hi guys,

I had the GE 75 Raider 8SG with the 8750H and the RTX2080. For some reason the graphic card died, and now they are giving me the full return . So I have now more or less 3000€ that I want to invest in a new laptop with full RTX 2080. With the problems I had with the temperatures and people here talking about the Throttle I'm now wondering if I should go for the Raider 9SG or maybe try another brand...but there are a few with full RTX2080.

Wondering even to look into the Acer Predator Helios 700, it's only 500 bucks more than the raider...but it's a big machine.



What do you guys think?

 

The problem right now is that a lot of laptops have (In my opinion) a lot of problems its like they are doing it on purpose(Alienware making 60hz the stable in their laptops, MSI never adding a MUX switch acer having that huge thing )

I always loved Sager/Clevo chassis its not the highest quality but most of the time their high end ones have decent cooling and preform awesomely (based on experience 2010-2016)

And also eluktroboost sounds interesting if you want to look into that.

 

Hello Guys!
Well, I wanna use my external monitor for my MSI GE75 9SF.

What can I do to use full of my 165Hz panel on the Monitor?

HDMI will provide it? Or have I go to mini display port? (Can´t find in any store at a good price here Display Port) but again, would HDMI output more then 60Hz atleast?

Its a gaming monitor, one of the best!

EDIT: Well I don´t mind to play at 144Hz if it works with 1.4 HDMI

 

Just try HDMI and see what the highest refresh rate available is, otherwise you can grab a miniDP->DP adapter for cheap.

 

Anyone try out the new "E17E2IMS.117" bios that came out yesterday?
New BIOS : E17E2IMS.117
ROM CheckSum : 0x3504
Release Date : 2019.10.23

;--------------------------- Description ------------------------------------;

1. Update VBIOS.

What video bios is it updating Intel or nVida? I wonder if it corrects the lines in some shades of blue issue.

 

All it takes to tame the 9750H is good thermal paste. It's not that dramatic of an issue.

The age of quad cores is literally over. Even a hot 9750H smokes the quad cores you listed, my 6820HK running at 4Ghz included. Next year's consoles are laying quad cores to bed for the eternal sleep. It really doesn't run hotter than an overclocked 6820HK or 7820HK if they are on stock paste by the way. The 7700HQ is cool because it's weak.

Why not look at the GT76? How much is the 9700K/2080 SKU where you are?

 

We will see, I will give MasterGel Maker a go and have ordered K5-PRO to replace the liquid thermal pads.
So far I can only say the 3000MHz CL16 G.Skills work fine @ XMP speeds. All it takes is uncorking the BIOS with the key combination. No voltage tweaking whatsoever, don't panic because the first time the screen will go black and the laptop will shut down and restart after enabling XMP.



It really needs new TIM...even with -150mV core (~0.975V core) and all core limited to 3.6GHz it's throttling to oblivion, peaking in mid 90's. After the CPU fan goes to 100% speed the temps drop to mid 70-80's.

Build quality of the GE75 still bugs me like hell. I've seen it and I know for sure something is going to crack within a few months. The bottom plate is extremely bendy around the hard drive and overall it can be pushed in with ease so it touches the heatpipes not to mention all screw fittings are molded into cone-shaped plastic.
I've went through this with the GX740 that ended up with 4 bolts drilled through the lids when the hinges simply broke off when opening the laptop, looked pretty hilarious though.

+
I flashed the new VBIOS and have a feely feel of feeling it cuts down on TDP even harder. I can't match my old Time Spy score, even though my Physics Score is now higher due to faster RAM.

 

Here i am! Finally the big beast is here... MSI GE75 Raider-655, RTX 2080, Core i9.

I have a few questions for you old date owners:

(I have a killer wifi card)

1) Do i need the Killer Control Panel software? The one that let you set UL and DL speed limits and enable game optimization? Can i keep it turned off?
2) I was using MSI Driver & App Center to update/download drivers. It made me install a software called Intel PRO Set Wireless software. Is it fine? Are drivers for the wifi card already installed? Which one is the right one?
3) Is there any preferred way to download drivers and updates on this machine? First time with MSI.

4) Very important question... what about MSI Dragon center? I don't like it, but is it needed? What happens if you remove it? Is battery still optimized? How are voltages/frequencies regulated if i remove it?

 

Having had MSI motherboards and now the GE, Dragon Center etc. all go straight tho the garbage bin. When I get my laptop I wipe the drive fully, don't trust these OEM data mining OS installs.

By the way, is someone here running raid0 NVMe? I'm getting rubbish results with dual XPG 8200PRO's, like 3200 read / 3000 write which is pretty much the same as a single drive.

 

Hey man, congrats on that beast and I hope you have a smoother sail.

1) No never installed it never used it and noticed better stability after changing the driver to the Intel driver from Device manager.

2)It is was useful in 2012 when I had my old sager NP8180 but with windows 10 I dont think it can offer anything extra just uninstall it.

3)Best way is getting each driver individually (Intel site + Nvidia site for gpu, wireless use the intel driver from device manager, Audio I am using a hacked dolby driver I got from @seanwee ...ETC)

4)I dont have MSI dragon center nor steel series software, There is lite program that was shared over here for fan control that was called silent option or something and remember that MSI center will interfere with afterburner's clocks, CPU will work normally after a lot of tests it proved useless for performance and for me personally had 0 value as I didn't need anything from it.

 

Congrats mate! Did you end up going for liquid metal in the end?

 

Recieved the Ge75 9sf-286 a few days ago and am very pleased. Borderlands 3 running on ultra and averaging 71C and max 81C on cpu.
I am posting though because of the display. I am very pleased with it but i didn't get the ao display i thought; i recieved a cmn model and not the model cmn175c i have been seeing. Anyone have any extra info on this (Newer?) model cmn1760? i dont know how to post a pic but HWinfo says:
Chi Mei (unknown model: Cm1760)
name: N173hce-g33
Date of Manufacture: week 12, Year 2019
Color bit depth: 8 bit
Gama factor: 2.2
but you can see all of that in that web site down below, it's the same. It's just weird that the model number n173... is the same as the cmn175c, so this cmn1760 must just be a newer model?

website is the only source of web info i could find (i have no affiliation with this site).
https://www.ultrabookreview.com/32595-msi-gs75-stealth-9sg-review/



but anyways, compared to my last laptop (alienware 15r3), this new display has much better contrast but the colors aren't as rich - not bad, just not as rich. But the colors do seem more accurate so maybe the lack of richness the alienware display was just wrong off the bat..

 

Please guys, someone know exactly the thickness of thermal pads needed if we want to get rid with k5 or blue ****?

 

They might have applied some silicon coating over the "transistors" or what ever its called around the CPU and GPU. If theres a short, it would have happened from the looks of it... but it didnt...

 

Maybe but it still not how it should be done. There should be zero LM leakage around the die.

By the way, I can advise anyone not to bother with raid0 NVMe's on this laptop (not that anyone should do it in the first place) The PCI-E M.2 lanes are shared from the PCH and are capped at ~3.23GB/s.

 

That's my problem with it, I thought me spending that 100$ will give me the ease of not reapplying thermal paste every now and then and the ease of not to risk effing up my new laptop .

Thank God I am comfortable in tinkering, opening and fixing my own machines with experience of over 10 years but imagine someone that got this laptop with that option with 0 knowledge in how to handle anything like this it's really a huge disaster.

And on the point of nvme raid I totally agree it's useless on 99% of the laptops.

 

Yeah, it seems like the GPU is eating the x16 CPU lanes and M.2's are getting the 'leftovers' from PCH. Somehow it feels like they're multiplexing the PCI-E lanes because single drives do get their advertised speeds but raid0 clearly seems capped when running ATTO benchmark, for example.

I'm handy with repasting hardware but yet it still feels wrong to tinker on a brand new laptop that almost €3000 here and ~€3600 with all upgrades I've done. Currently I have the CPU capped at 0.85V 2.6GHz in TS for everything except gaming, have a pot of K5 PRO on order and will just repaste everything with it and MasterGel Maker.

 

That explains why my GS75 caps out at 3500 read and write even with raid. Never knew about this.

 

If it's 1080P, then HDMI will only output at 144Hz.

 

Thats why I always have 11.1grams tube of Kryonaut it will last for 10s of re-pastes.
Gonna give LM one final try and see if I will be able to perfect it or else Kryonaut here I come.

 

Yea, but just a heads up HDMI still goes through Intel and the DP goes directly to the Nvidia card which allows you to use g-sync and get less stuttering in some games + generally a little boost in gpu performance. ( For @ptgamer88 )

++ This might sound weird but getting a 2560x1440 monitor might be a better idea as in most scenarios the CPU is bottle-necking the frames on the 1080p panel, you will get same frames in a lot of scenarios if you go with 1440p.

 

I'm a bit reluctant with Kryonaut, I've used it a lot before and it has a strange behaviour of completely drying out within a few weeks/months, not entirely sure what it does with temps. Dow Corning toothpaste under Intel CPUs behaves similarly, when delidding a 7920X it was completely dry after like 2 months of usage.

Regarding the panel, I'd still opt for a higher refresh 1080p than 1440p 60Hz.
That said I've been spoiled with high refresh rate screens for years already - pg279q, FX349FJEW, GK950F and now the latest PG349Q @ 120hz. I just can't stand 60Hz anymore for action gaming and racing.

Honestly I don't think a 9750h is bottlenecking a 2080 a lot when uncorked at let to run at ~4GHz but it needs proper cooling, that's the biggest challenge yet.

 

That is weird, I have never faced that issue as I have finished a couple of those 11.1gm on my, friends and family laptops and desktops (Specially my desktop I didnt repaste for almost 2 years and when I finally did and cleaned it up it was still gooey not as fresh as it was but it was much better than the condition I used to find the MX-4 in.

Maybe you got a bad patch (Bad storage?)

My bad my point was not clear enough regarding the 1440p monitor, the 9750h is a bottleneck at very high frames (Specially in coreclock dependent games) as if you can test on a 1440p you will find that you are getting the same fps in a lot of scenarios.
What I wanted to recommend is a 1440p 144hz monitor as you will still get the same performance with better quality

 

My GS75 can handle it no problem so the GE75 should too. IF you use liquid metal.

With all cores at 4ghz and running prime 95 small fft + unigine heaven 4.0 extreme I max out at 88°C cpu and 82°C gpu at max fans

Running prime 95 only I max out at 82°C

 

Yeah at stock it hits tjmax the second you hit "start" on any stress test, similar situation in games.
I won't be going with LM because it alloys and needs reapplying.

 

Hey would you mind sharing what model of samsung RAM you have at 3200? Thinking of upping the 2666 they shipped with it to 3200.

Nice temps btw. I get about 85c with the 8 core, but at about 3.6 ghz.

Whenever that happens on any chip that means the heat isnt getting to the heatsink properly. Are you going to repaste? I recommend kryonaut if your nervous about LM

 

Just the stock OEM Samsung C die kit. 16gb x2

 

Ah, it's C-Die then. I thought they were low bin B-Dies. The 3000 and 3200MHz Ripjaws are Hynix C-Die and I can confirm these work fine.
i could tinker with the OEM sticks but didn't want the hassle, loaded 3000MHz XMP and it just works.

I will repaste my GE75 for sure but I'm still waiting for K5 PRO TiM for thermal pads. It's not that I'm reluctant with liquid metal, I just know that in the end it wil sc...w up the heatsinks anyway.

 

Just picked up one of these at Costco online, looking forward to having a laptop again! My old MSI died after about 6 years and I never replaced it.

Any recommendations on setting up the laptop other than a good undervolt?

Costco build is:
9750H / 2060
512gb SSD + 1TB HD
16gb ram
Free 2 year warranty, plus 2 more years with Costco credit card
$1400

Not a bad price for the 2060!

 

Thats a good pair. I'd unlock the cpu using the advanced bios and have it run at 4ghz all core, the thermal solution is the same for the 9880h, so with 2 fewer cores you should be able to ride 4 ghz all day. Lots of people have done it here. Should have pretty nice thermals and wattage room to breathe with a 2060, hopefully its a good overclock-er for you. Maybe someone else can answer here, I don't know what the wattage limit is on the 2060 variant. On the 2080 its 150 watts.

 

Awesome! I can do that. Do you know if they have the same heatsinks on all configurations?

I read the 2070 Clevo pb51 has better heatsinks than the 2060 model, but never read if the GE75 does that too. I think the Alienware m51 does it too with their 2080 models.

 

I believe they do. The only difference between them that I know of is the 2080, which has 1 extra heat pipe.

 

Hey guys
Wanna replace the thermal gress or whatever its called on the VRAMs and so, what size in mm takes it?

Its for a MSI GP75 9SF
I already repasted with Grizzly but I dont see much or if any improvement.

Any advice is welcome!
LM at this time isnt a option

 

I have a problem.
I notice that Fan 2 isn´t spinning, only if I install every time I run my windows the frimeware LOL, after that it works but beside that, it only works in Turbo Boost.

What can I do?

 

As per my knowledge the fans spins if required, one fan will be off while the other is sniping or one will be slower than the other.

 

Seriously MSI should be ashamed for the TIM job on these laptops. I've just replaced the stock paste with Mastergel Maker and fresh K5 Pro (GEEZ what a nightmare to apply!) and my temps dropped from 90-95*C @ 3.6GHz to about 80-86*C at 4GHz and the fans spin slower.
It didn't do anything for the GPU though, still at 73-74*C.

 

I have a GE63 with rtx 2070 I put liquid metal and I'm using battlefield 5 as a benchmark and getting 80 on the CPU and 73 on a GPU . I use thermal paste on a GPU running the CPU at Max 3.9

 

Anyone got info on the new BIOS?

 

Strange,
Why it does spin after using firmeware apply? Because it overheats to 60ºC even o IDLE with only 1 fan working...
Never had such computar or laptop!