*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Was hoping you could change those Especially if you setup macros or something that use the Fn key to light up too in a different colour

I know how to change the brightness but it only actually changes after I let go of those keys so it's not real time, is that normal?

I only got it yesterday I was still in the process of updating it when 1809 decided to install

 

Oh baby! Time to play with settings again!


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Yes, sadly it's normal. There are 5 levels of brightness and you just have to keep count of where you're at. It's weird if you're used to a real time adjustment.

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Hi,
Just a FYI for anyone considering re-paste. I have always used Arctic Silver 5. After reading, I was convinced to give Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut a try. I also learned that these pastes have a shelf life. My Arctic Silver was really old but it was always stored in the refrigerator. So, being leery of using a spread method to apply the paste (as seems to be the way to go with this paste), I decided to do a test run on my old laptop. Keep in mind that my old laptop was re-pasted with the old Arctic Silver about a year ago. Spreading the paste was a little difficult but I was able to get a nice even coating. The results were roughly a 8-10C drop in temps for everyday use scenarios (I don't game on this laptop). I do know of a program that always heats up the gpu, I'll give that a try later.
Anyway, I'm pleased with these results especially since these reductions are over Arctic Silver not a stock paste. Again, the fact the Artic Silver was old may also have played a role but I am pretty sure these are the lowest temps I have ever seen on this unit. Up next is doing the stealth. Probably tomorrow. I'll have more precise numbers to report then.

 

Is it necessary to sync or connect a new fan via BIOS or something of that nature if I want to replace my heatsink+fans? I tried it before and for some reason the new fans were revving up and down in short fixed intervals regardless of my actual temps or workload.

 

I just purchased my GS65 in the beginning of the month, .the start it was okay. Probably because i wasn't putting much load on it at all, just surfing the web. Once i tried playing games or anything that started to stress the CPU for a good 20 minutes i get hard stalled. The screen freezes or goes black and checking to see if its still responsive by pressing the caps lock is a fail. Has anyone had this issue before?

 

which model? rtx or gtx? I'm sending my unit for rma soon since wifi stopped working.

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Its a 1070 gtx

 

oh cool

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Would be great if it worked correctly. I think this speed shift technology is the problem. Everything is fine if i under-volt it and kick back turbo to limit to 35, even though i would probably do this anyway the point is that its designed to work as is.

 

lol when i undervolted i didn't get into all those technicalities lol, just changed the core to -150mv and that's it lol.

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Oh, no i mean the computer is shot without the under-volt.

 

oh ok

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Hey guys and girls.
I updated my EC Firmware to the newest version, and now my CPU min Fan Speed is 2800rpm.

Is this normal? or did I f**k up something?

I then also updated my BIOS which reset my EC I think. But the min CPU fan speed is still 2800rpm (which is like 45%)

Before, the min speed was ~1800rpm

 

@

I have the same, everything is normal.
EC 16Q2EMS1.107

Would be better if they did so:
30-40°C ~1800 RPM
45-55°C ~2800 RPM
...

 

Really? So If you set your fan speed to like 1%, it runs at ~1800rpm?

In my case, everything below 45% will still stay at ~2600rpm. I even reflashed the EC Firmware... no idea what I did wrong... any ideas?

 

Quick question to those more familiar with the Win 10 audio side of things and the GS65:

When I plug in a pair of headphones, a dialogue box pops up confirming this and the volume drops a touch, I'm guessing to account for headphone power / impedance etc. No issues with this, I've found my sweet spot with volume (25%) and am quite happy.

If I shut the laptop down and power it on later, the headphone volume is notably louder despite it being at the same level. If I unplug it and plug it back in it drops back to expected level.

Current Realtek Audio Driver (6.0.1.8612), no Nahimic stuff installed.

Anyone familiar with this? Not a big deal, just a minor annoyance despite an otherwise great wee piece of kit.

Thanks in advance

 

This is for the 8RF.

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Beautiful! I have been looking for this forever!

 

No, it is equal to ~2800 RPM.

 

Well, should have left good enough alone, did a re-paste with Thermal Grizzly and I'm back to the problems I had before I did an RMA. Cores 1,3 & 5 way hotter than cores 2,4,6 and now throttling. Pre-paste they were not. I did not change any thermal pads. My Gpu decreased by 1C. So at least I didn't make that worse. Clearly I need to do something different with my application.

The thing is, the re-paste is definitely helping 3 cores. Max temps decreased 8-10C, while the other 3 cores increased roughly 3C. Looks like one final repaste is needed. When I sent it for repair, they definitely did a re-paste and some pads are gone. So I need to figure out what to do differently when I paste. Any suggestions? I was thinking about putting a coat on both the die and the copper and trying to get a thicker coat although I thought I had a nice, thick, even coat this time. Should I try a thinner coat? Please help, this is driving me nuts. @hackness any suggestions?

 

FYI, these are the pads I noticed were gone (blue X)

 

One more thing, if you think I need a thicker coat, could I just add some paste without cleaning off the paste I put on yesterday?

 

NO!

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OK, any thoughts on why the factory paste did better than my application? Too thick? to thin? not even? Should I press down on the heat sink after I replace it to spread the paste?

 

I am also waiting on my Kryonaut to arrive. I was told Kryonaut would not be as good because it's thinner than other TIMs. I will test this possibly next week when it arrives (from China .......).

Thicker paste fills the voids where thinner paste is unable.

Not sure about stock TIMs. Dmemon also experienced better temperatures with stock paste (granted he RMAed his HS after MSI repasted his laptop for him with Noctua, because high temperature persisted).

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OK, did another re-paste. Clearly I suck at spreading the paste. I got it better, could run AIDA for 10 minutes with max temp at 89C with 35 multiplier on all cores and turbo fans and cooler under unit. Sucks cause again, 3 cores maxed at 88-89, the other three at 78-79. If I could get all cores to 79, I'd go do cartwheels in my yard. I did get it better but I ran out of paste. I will try again, I think the key is to put paste on the die and heatsink, I was able to do this for the GPU and got my best result so far (max temp of 77C), I ran out of paste trying to get a coat on the CPU side of the heatsink though. Ugh! Gonna have to try again with my old arctic silver 5 paste. The good think is I can get this unit apart and back together fairly quickly now, hardest part is those damn wireless card wires with the tiny snaps.

 

Can you try IC Diamond? I prefer this paste over Kryonaut only because its thicker, and it seems the heatsink on these machines is not very even. as xLima mentioned, thicker pastes fare better with particularly uneven heatsinks and that might help.

Performance wise it is not bad. Kyronaut is basically top of the line, but IC Diamond is right up there even if it's not technically the best.

 

As far as CM MasterGel Maker, it degrades over time. It isn't as expensive and one tube gives you like 5 maybe 7 application.

It last about 1 month with amazing performance. Then it starts degrading, so if you don't mind taking it apart to clean and maintenance every couple months it is a pretty good paste.

I will be trying Kryonaut and will report performance. I have saved some CM in case temperature with Kryonaut suck.

@HonkiBompi

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Edit 2x post

 

Gelid-Extreme can also be considered as the good paste with thick type , but IC Diamond is still thicker.

I had an uneven heatsink back then in a P150EM Clevo machine, temps were so good using the IC Diamond that time vs the thin paste Prolimatech's PK-3 and PK-1 (Kyronaut is similar to these 2) but I actually saw some scratching on my die which makes me back out from using IC Diamond.

There were some posts saying that some people had their IC Diamond scratches the die surface.

Not sure how are things now though.

 

Wait so 1% isn't 1% of max fan speed???

Does anybody else have a key that doesn't register 100% of the time? My P key is only registering 50% of the time if I don't hit it perfectly centred, I've had it for 5 days and I'm not sure if I should get it replaced or if there's something I can do

 

Scratches from IC Diamond are cosmetic for most practical purposes. They might matter for extreme overclocking (like taking an i7-4790K up to 5GHz) but they won't matter here.

IC Diamond is still a top tier TIM for performance. It's non-conductive, and aside from needing to be gentle when cleaning it up it's a lot easier to work with than most other compounds. Use alcohol-soaked pads to loosen the compound before gently wiping up. I use generic cotton rounds, the ones for makeup removal, because they're sturdier than cotton balls which fall apart on me, and 91% isopropyl alcohol.

Use a thin X pattern rather than the "industry standard" glob in the middle. It provides better spread especially under the lighter pressure of notebook cooling systems.

 

Hi,
I decided to order another tube of paste, I'm up in the air on which one. I feel like I'd get the best performance from Thermal Grizzly if I could figure out how to get the proper contact across the entire cpu die. When send for repair, they were able to do it. Spreading the paste has not worked for me. I'll be very interested in @xLima results. Especially if you are able to achieve uniform temps (within 5C across all cores as this was the result the factory achieved although overall temps were still too high) Can you please tag me once you get results @xLima ? I'm going to wait to order more paste until you try it. If your results are not good, I'll go with a thicker paste.
On another note, I've been playing with my fan percentages in dragon center. I see the chart a few post ago which is helpful versus just guessing. However, I just checked my fan and at idle with low temps and set at 30%, its showing 2650 rpm. I believe the ec firmware changed these numbers, maybe only on the low end. Anyone know where to find an updated chart? For example, is there a difference between 140 and 150%. I want to make a ramp up of speeds that make sense. I may want to go from 110 to 140 for example. An accurate chart would be helpful. BTW, here are the cooler boost max rpms and again, lowest speed is 2650

 

Hi, nevermind on the fan info, I just did trial and error. What I learned: Any fan percentage from 5-40% results in the same minimum rpm's for both cpu and gpu. CPU is ~2650, GPU is ~2750. Its either zero or those minimum numbers which is fine, they are not audible. After that the above chart is accurate from 50%-100%. 45% is roughly 2750 on the CPU. Also, Anything above 100% results in max rpm's for the CPU. 105% and 150% yield the same rpms.
GPU is as follows:
100%: 6000
105%: 6315
110% and above is max speeds
All this testing was done in sport mode in dragon center, not sure if changing to turbo mode changes these results. I'll do some more testing and upload a new chart

 

New Fan Speeds chart for Dragon Center:

 

Nice work!
I find it interesting that from 5-50%, it stays the same value. I wonder if that’s a bug or if it’s because of the whole Max-Q thing.


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It is an odd system. The ec firmware has changed these numbers. One thing I did wonder is say I use 110% vs 150%, would accelerate how fast the fan speed ramps up even though the max speed is the same. During testing, I used the lowest slider to test rmps for different percentasges. When I went from 30% to max speeds (105 or 110) it did take a while, maybe 20 seconds, to reach max speed. I'll change that to 150 and time it, hang on

 

Using the first slider to ramp up from 30% to 105% on CPU took 1 minute and 15 seconds to reach 6075 rmp's. That is too slow but probably unrealistic to go between those 2 extremes in real world operation.

The results were the same going from 30-150.

 

UPDATED complete fan speed chart for Dragon Center, I borrowed some info which is noted in the chart

 

I will report back. But I ordered from China, so shipping days possibly as soon as 1st week of March to end of March.

Thanks for the updated Fan Speeds (my results were from (08/2018)).

Try one more thing, if I close the lid, my fan speeds go up another 100 to 200 RPMs, could you double check if this is the same for you. @mickey j

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@xLima
I actually did buy Kryonaut and have been using it for a week now. It's fairly similar to freshly applied MakerGel at lower temps but worst than it at higher temps. MakerGel allowing me to stay at around 83C while benching but Kryonaut going as high as 90C. I know Kryonaut is supposed to have higher thermal conductance but I'm just not seeing it myself after two repastes with it. Also the one week non-benching period for MakerGel didn't work for me as around a month later temps started rising again. Starting to wonder if I should go back to MX4 or just deal with repasting with MakerGel every month.

 

Yeah 1-week curing for me made no difference. I am willing to take a part every month, gives me a chance to clean out the dust and stuff that builds up.

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I FINALLY got my MSI GS65 (1070 max-q) back from repair. They changed the screen because of multiple dead pixels and fixed the coil whine on my unit. I also noticed that the firmware have been updated. The fan speeds are constantly around 2700 RPM now (before it was repaired it was around 1800 RPM).

I tested Fire Strike on my unit and I got 12.420 and before the reapir I got 12520. However, my CPU does not throttle as much as before (probably because of the firmware). My physics score has improved around 200 points while the GPU has dropped 100 points. I think (and hope) the reduced score of the GPU is due to the new GPU-driver because the load is 99% all the time during the test.

 

Probably, my GT73 1080 scores about 200 less with recent drivers than 411.70 in last October.

 

Thanks zipperi.

Like I said, I have just got it back from repair. It took 30 days. Now I have noticed that the Steelseries app says that my keyboard is not connected. I cannot see it in Device Manager either. The keyboard itself is working, and there is light in it, but I cannot change the lights with the app anymore - I'm afraid they forgot to reconnect something. What do you guys think?

 

Have you tried uninstalling the steelseries app?
This is what i'd do.

-Download latest steelseries app
-GO into airplane mode
-Uninstall the app
-Run CCleaner (cleaner and registry) until nothing shows up
-Restart
-Run steelseries installer
-Restart

 

^ Thank you for your suggestion. It did not work. Does anybody know how the keyboard of the MSI GS65 is connected to the motherboard? As I mentioned, I have lights in my keyboard, and I can type on it, but I cannot change the colors/etc. with the Steelseries app like I could before. An explanation may be that they forgot to connect a part of the keyboard :/ ?

Before I will send it back, I want to rule out that it can somehow be software related, and that is why I'm asking you guys .

 

That's unfortunate.



This should help you do teardown the laptop and find the right ribbon cable.

 

Even though I tried to reinstall the driver countless ways (including the official guide from MSI) I could not get it to work. However, - it works now after a clean install of Windows. I have no idea what caused it, but I'm happy that I don't have to send it in for repair again!