***The Official MSI GT72 Dominator Pro (GTX-980M) Owner?s Lounge***

Speedstep and speedshift...should we use both or only speedshift?

 

That I wouldn't know, speedshift was introduced with 6th gen cpu's, i'm using a 4th gen.

But as far as I'm aware, speedshift replaces speed step and changes it from being a software solution to a hardware solution for essentially the same thing.

 

After I did a clean install and only installed XTU and none of the MSI programs my i7-4720HQ holds 3.6Ghz for hours playing BF1.

Have you already checked your temps under load?

On XTU my CPU has two "free" bins that you can use to "OC", over that, you need to put the version 1 micro-code and use TS, I tried it just for giggles and its soooo unstable, I didn't spend much time doing so, but I managed to got near 850 points in Cinebench R15(from 660-680 stock), but it crashed while gaming, and no giving it +20mV didn't make it any more stable, so I reverted back.

 

Temps will occasionally spike to 79 for one update cycle of hw monitor/TS/etc but generally hover around 72-75. GPU never exceeds 65. Edit: If i remember to turn on cooler boost, then my temps never exceed 60 for either gpu or cpu.

I havent had any issues since disabling speedshift and changing the battery boost settings to 90 and turning it off. I'm now leaning towards some of my issues being nvidias ****ty battery boost never really being turned off even if it's disabled and how msi reports it's hybrid power usage to the system. But for now i'm fine with how things are

 

I'm looking to buy a second power supply. I'm in Canada, anyone got any places they bought from? Price? Happy?

I'm thinking eBay is the best place. But I'm curious if anyone bought from Aliexpress. Anywhere else? Microbytes, Tiger direct, ncix. Newegg?

Anyways yeah.

 

If it can be useful to someone else, MSI French support finally replied with a link for Haswell Spectre fixed BIOS (UNTESTED BY ME):
ONLY APPLIES TO GT72-2QE with 4th Gen processor (Haswell) as seen here: https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GT72-2QE-Dominator-Pro-4.html

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1K5TMNB_XinhHgxdzUnm2oJxSruV1afR6
MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON THE LATEST CURRENT BIOS E1781IMS.110 FIRST PRIOR TO FLASHING THE ONE I POSTED

I repeat: I didn't try this BIOS and shall not be responsible for any misuse or trouble related to this file.

 

Hey guys n gals,

So my gt72 shutdown randomly while I was playing the division today, and now refuses to boot. The last time this happened it was the gpu and removing it allowed me to at least boot using igpu.

This time however that doesn’t work, and pressing the power button doesn’t even cause fans to spin up or any of the leds to turn on.

Power adapter has its little green led lit, but the led that shows the ac adapter is plugged in isn’t on (although from memory it only turns on once system starts booting).

I’ve tried removing gpu, removing the ram I can get to, removing the hdd, ssds, resetting the ec controller but still no luck.

If anyone has any ideas or methods for testing to try to figure out what’s gone wrong please hit me up I’d rather not spend money on a new pc yet, especially with current gpu/ram prices and the proximity of gtx 2xxx

 

Does it boot on battery?
Some of those GT72s had bad solder around the AC jack, but it would still boot up on battery power.
if it doesn't even boot up on battery, you need to RMA it or have someone like @Khenglish look at it for you (I don't know if he would fix it if he allowed you to send it to him).

 

Nope doesn’t boot in any way shape or form no matter which components are plugged in or not (aka removing battery and trying ac alone doesn’t work, trying with stock ram alone doesn’t work, gpu removed in case that was blown again didn’t work)

It could be that the battery was drained pretty low with ac failing mid game and not being noticed and then shutting down due to no power. I’d never heard of the bad soldering issue, but would explain some issues I’ve had with it in the past.

Yeah I’m worried it needs rma’d but it’s now over 3 years old and out of warranty and when my gpu broke last year the quote was 3/4 the price of a new laptop to have it fixed and cost me like 200 bucks just to send it to them for analysis.

I’m gonna take it into a local store and see if they can test the ac adapter and see if they have any bright ideas.

Thanks for the ideas

 

FTC Confirms What We Suspected All Along: Those 'Warranty Void If Removed' Stickers Are No Good

http://fortune.com/2018/04/11/ftc-warranty-void-stickers/

 

Nice share, thank you. In fact, it has been known (that you can do upgrade without penalty) for many many years and pretty much all manufacturers stopped enforcing such unreasonable rules on their systems.

 

When you connect the AC/charger, does anything light up(there is one led in the front left that should light up), if said led/indicator doesn't light up, its either a dead AC/charger, or a broken DC-IN jack, replaced dozens of those, if you where local/same country I could do it.

If there is no light and the AC/charger is in working order, it can be tons of things, from easy, to pretty hard to even find what happened.

 

Well I took it in for a diganosis, their response was unrepairable (they lacked the required tools to diganose properly/no clue what was wrong). Upon getting home with my laptop, i removed literally everything accessible without having to remove the motherboard to get to the backside, and upon replacing solely the m.2 drives, it booted up. Re added the gpu, extra ram, my hdd, and it continued to boot up just fine.

So absolutely no clue what was wrong with it, nor why it took being taken to a repair shop for a diagnostic check, and then coming home for it to fix it self. But whatever the problem it hasn't repeated itself so fingers crossed it last's until the next gen of nvidia cards come out and I replace it with a desktop lol.

In case anyone has any ideas as to what was going on, in the spoiler below i'll write some detailed notes as to my problem and the things i attempted to diagnose it myself.

Spoiler: Diagnosis Attempts/Symptoms

So in the middle of an incursion run in the Division my laptop shutdown and refused to boot. Considering I'd previously fried my gpu, i looked at my AC adapter to see if it's light would be extinguised when i plugged it in to my laptop (as this was what happened when my gpu previously died) and no the light stayed on.

Not knowing if it was some other component (i'd recently just upgraded my ram to 32GB) I decided to open it up, remove the gpu/extra ram/HDD/m.2 drives/and disconnected the battery. No luck, laptop continued to not boot and AC adapter light stayed on (with the exception of when the m.2 drives were removed (note i removed the m.2 4 slot board rather than the drives themselves).

Having tried all these, i followed steps to reset the EC just in case that had been causing issues, and again no luck.

So having removed the gpu I reapplied thermal paste to both gpu and cpu because why not it was about time, and took it in to get it diagnosed, presuming that either the battery.

A few days later i got a message saying the diagnostics had been completed and upon fetching my laptop was told they couldn't diagnose any issues with the tools they had on hand, and they hadn't been able to get it to boot either so to them it was considered as unrepairable. Fine with my honestly, i have insurance for my laptop and due to laptop prices would have covered a new one.

Being the pessimistic person i am, i decided that maybe the repair shop was just bad at their job or maybe they misunderstood the issue, so i opened it up, removed the hdd/m.2 board/extra ram. Upon plugging in the ac adapter, the ac adapter light went out (to be expected based on earlier troubleshooting steps. Upon replacing the m.2 board however my laptop booted up just fine. so i reconnected the hdd, re added the extra ram, and it booted up.

Now having had issues in the past with crashes/throttling/etc, i decided to check the blue screen logs, as well as the eventlogs to see if there had been any issues, along with my throttlestop logs to see if there had been a spike in temp/power just before the shutdown. According to all the logs I have the laptop never had an issue, never crashed, never had any issues, and then just booted up as per normal 3 days later.

TL;DR

• checked if AC adapter light went out when plugging into laptop - No
• checked if laptop booted with ac adapter plugged in and battery connected - No
• checked if laptop booted with ac adapter and battery connected but hdd/extra ram/m.2 board/gpu removed - No (ac adapter light went out upon plugging in)
• Same as above but with m.2 board in - No
• Repasted - No (you never know lol)
• Took it in for repair - Told unrepairable and didnt boot for them etiher
• Removed hdd/extra ram/m.2 board - Booted up first try
• Reconnected everything - booted up just fine and has continued to work so far
• Checked logs for any glaring issues/errors/warnings - Nothing out of the ordinary and no indication of temp spikes/etc
• Laptop been working fine ever since, just wish i knew what had caused the issue (probably a bad dc jack is my guess but haven't noticed any issues with system reporting charging/plugged in status/etc)

 

Hey guys, its been a long time since i've posted here.
As we know, Microsoft loves forcing some of these windows updates that happens to break the functionality of the switchable GPU.
I switched to the iGPU after this major update (as i had to get some productive work done without an AC adapter) but now, i cannot switch back to the Nvidia GPU. I need to do some intensive renders but yeah, my GPU switch key just gives me an error. I even tried looking into the BIOS and theres nothing for manually switching the GPU there. I wish we would be able to do it at least in the BIOS without having to rely on SCM. Anyone knows how i can get my dGPU back up?

 

Usually uninstalling SCM, reboot, install newest (or even the same version) SCM, reboot, then try the switch / app trigger for switching - which should reboot you into the other GPU.

 

You can also do it in the BIOS, using the magic combo it unlocks a lot of crap in the BIOS, GPU switch is one of those options.

 

Cool, can you please post a BIOS screen photo, so we can see where it is and what are the options?

 

Sure.

Falkentyne posted the combo today on this forum somewhere, and if @Naweed R. wants it I will send it via PM.

The option is in the advanced menu, change to what you want, save and exit and it switches the GPU in use, I wont even install SCM again, because thats what it only was good for

.

 

Wow, that's awesome, thanks!!

 

Be WARNED That on some MSI bios versions, switching from dGPU to iGPU and back to dGPU in some conditions and certain ...uh...circumstances, can cause a permanent black screen unless you know how to clear the CMOS. This can be fixed by setting PEG ROOT PORT 1 from Auto to Enabled. I already told Svet about this.

 

This is exactly what i was looking for in the BIOS.
If you could send a pm about how to access it, that would be great

Is it really that risky to switch back and forth from the BIOS? my current BIOS version is E1782IMS.11D from 10/14/2016

I shall try @hmscott 's method first as having to switch from the button is easier. I assumed that there was no way to do it from the BIOS

 

Correct. Just take good precautions.

 

Do you know guys how to contact PREMA? I am looking for u locked bios and vbios for gt72s 6qe.
Cheers

 

Try Svet on MSI's own forums for an unlocked BIOSes.

 

Yeah. I wrote to him already, but I heard that prema bioses are superior, so that is why I am asking about him. If I wont get premamod then I try svet's mods.

Just to summarize

Gpu vbios mod will give me unlocked overclocking. Anything else?

Also can you guys told me if unlocking bios gives ) any real advantages in gt72s 6qe (i7-6280hk, 32gb ram, 980m 8gb).

What kind of benefits gives me Ec firmware mod?

Is there anything else I could do to get better performance/stability? Any software, firmware, hardware mods to the laptop/gpu? ( for example I have seen people adding some electronic elements like mosfets to the gpu).

I also would like to repad gpu with better pads. I was considering GELID pads. Do you know what thckness should it be? It is hard to measure it, but as I can see there is at least 2 different thickness used.

Thanks in advance

 

Svet's mod is just as good as Prema. GPU VBIOS mod requires you to have a SPI flasher tool to do a direct flash since you aren't able to flash nowadays in OS.
EC firmware mod provides hacks that allows the system to unleash more performance at expense of stability if exceeding certain threshold as well as thermal limitations.

 

Thanks for an answer. Can you tell me what hacks exactly the ec firmware provides in that laptop model?

There is a still question of what is the thickness of the pads, and if there is any other mods I could do? If there is anyone who knows the answer - don't be shy i am looking forward for yours respones. Thanks in advance

 

It's best to check with Svet directly on the available mods with EC mod as features vary depending on the system model.

 

OK, I have the VBIOS and EC modded (for higher fan speed when under load) by Svet and it is really good. I was able to get 30 more FPS in my favourite game I've measured a thickness of the pads on the gpu, but I am still confused. Some of them are 1.04-1.09mm and other 1.28-1.38mm (Some error may exists due to error of vernier caliper). I believe these are 1mm and 1.5mm really but was compressed by a heatsink. The problem is that OEM pads are quite soft with ability to compress and I planed to replace them with Gelid which are harder and may not be that compressible. What do you think guys. Is it going to be OK with new pads?

 

Hello guys. After 4 years with my GT72 2QE, I am planning to buy a desktop in a couple of months... Just waiting for the i9 CPUs and the new nvidia cards.

Until then, I will be hooking up a keyboard, mouse and my new 27" 1440p G-sync external monitor to the laptop.

My question is, how capable is the 980M while driving 1440p? I know it's a rather old card and I'm not expecting Ultra or High settings at that resolution. If I put everything on low/medium will I be able to get an OK experience?

I play games like Battlefield (1, V), For Honor, Sea of Thieves, PUBG etc...

I think anything above 60 fps, I should be happy with.

 

Draw your conclusions from (not many straight 1440p results) https://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-980M.126692.0.html You might get on High/Ultra 30 - 50 fps so dropping settings 60+ fps seems very possible.

 

Thanks. If that's indeed true it will be great. Having a playable game on 27" and higher resolution will be much more relaxing than playing on a 17" laptop screen with 1080p and higher graphics.

And in a couple of months, I can crank it back up all the way with the new PC

I have loved this laptop it has proven to be great for the past 4 years. (Other than a DC jack failure which was covered on warranty)

 

My father has MSI gt72 2qe dominator pro with 5 gen of CPU. He has intel management engine interface driver problem and I must update bios to fix that issue. Problem is when I try to update bios inside bios UEFI update tool, I choose file and message appear your pc will shut down and reset a several time during this process ... I go ok and nothing happens just reboot to windows normally. Do somebody know how to flash it?
Thanks a lot!


This guy has the same problem as me

 

I probably can try to help you remotely. Please email me directly.

 

Thank You @Kevin@GenTechPC For great support!

 

Thank you Ivan!

 

Hi, this is my first time at forum. I have been looking for answers about my GT72 Pro Dominator laptop that I bought in 2014.

Recently, my laptop has an issue with battery and overheating. There is one point where the pin from AC adapter was very hot and the laptop shutted down easily when I tried to use it for gaming.

I decided to bring my laptop to the computer mechanic since I do not have my warranty anymore.
It was found out that the battery needs to be replaced and I asked them to do so.
I also asked them to change the thermal paste and clean the laptop as well. However, the new problem comes up where the laptop cant be charged. I brought the laptop back to the computer mechanic and tested it there, surprisingly the adapter was connected and the laptop was charged but it was extremely slow. Therefore I went back and tested it back to different power outlet at my home, my campus, my friend's place and it wont charge. I thought the adapter is broken. But I tested to different laptop with 7.4mm diameter size DC jack and it works. Now I am not sure what is happening with my laptop and hope that the community here can give suggestions. I plan to visit the computer mechanic again to discuss regarding possibility of DC Jack / motherboard issues.

If the DC jack need to be replaced, I'd like to know the danger of doing so and the estimate cost since I have spent quite a lot for replacing the battery itself.

If the motherboard is the issue. I saw the price is around $700 which is quite alot by considering the labor cost as well. Therefore, what the best I can do if it was the case?

Thank you.

 

Check with MSI as they will still service your computer for a cost. Why not let the manufacturer take care of your system? Find out how much MSI wants to charge you for the repair then you can make the decision after whether you wish to go for the repair or not.
GT72 is still very usable at current stage unless you think the cost isn't worth it, and you actually want to pay more for a new machine.

 

The DC-IN jack costs around 5-8€, plus work of a full teardown, around here, paying shop rate, expect some 200$, or one afternoon, one soldering iron and 20€.

 

I am looking to upgrade my m.2 and considering buying ADATA SU800 M.2 2280 256GB Ultimate 3D NAND Solid State Drive (ASU800NS38-256GT-C) from Amazon. Any reason 4 of these would be a problem? I am not as savvy as most when it comes to compatibility of and use of pci lanes, speed, and things like that.

 

It will work, and reviews have shown that it performs well and is pretty reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-M-2-128GB-ASU800NS38-128GT-C/product-reviews/B01M9K0N8I

 

would it be worth it to buy a gt72 980 today being old tech compared to a new 2019 gaming laptop?

 

You can if budget is limited. It still runs well, but of course, with the understanding that there are always something better and faster out there, and your machine is already obsolete.

 

its a 6920hq with a gtx 980 non M version. think its worth putting in my 1070? I have a 4710hq with 1070 and not sure if I want to swap and give the slower one to my daughter?

 

I'm not sure if anyone can chime in on this issue but any help would be great. At the start the laptop appeared to work only on AC power, so a new battery was purchased and again the laptop would turn off around 7 seconds after booting into the OS with new battery. But there's some things that complicates this issue, with the AC adapter unplugged the computer seemed to remain powered if I left the computer at the BIOS screen.

So, some. Other weird information, running both Windows 10 and Windows 8 installations they would first install to the hard drive (copying windows files) on battery power and then restart, however on windows 10 it shut off after it went to the windows logo. Now, with the Windows 8 install it was similar, it would copy the files over, restart and then when it came up "preparing devices" it shut off again?...

BIOS and EC updated, Thermal paste done again, m. 2 removed leaving only SSD. Tried one dimm at a time incass one wasn't working and RAM is installed into dimms 3 and 4 which is weird, dimms 1 and 2 are under keyboard I think.

The laptop also did some weird things like some restarts it wouldn't detect a bootable drive and go straight into BIOS then it would detect fine. BIOS battery also replaced.

Sometimes the laptop won't turn on even with AC plugged in recently.. Not too sure what to try anymore.

 

Well, here I am 5 years later - still got the same laptop, not had any problems till now...

So I need a new screen back panel and it's probably enough of a problem that I might as well put a new LCD screen in there; so it's not something that I have look at doing again in the near future.

So questions for the audience; can I...

Get this: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/MSI/GT72 2QE SERIES/

And should I get this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153151836201?ul_noapp=true

 

Here to revive this thread with some news, testing a zotac 1080 mxm in this laptop and the lcd lights up, fans go to full blast though, not much I can do about that I guess.


Here is my jank af setup...






@senso tutorial coming soon, hopefully....

@Mr. Fox @Papusan @Falkentyne @Rengsey R. H. Jr. peaked your interest?

 

Yes the charging port is partially missing lol, I soldered all the connectors using jumper wires, even more jank but it works

Edit: Those mosfets get crispy VERY quickly need some cooling on that asap!

 

I'm not sure. It seems sort of interesting in a not-supposed-to-be-like-that geeky sort of way. What are you looking to accomplish, upgrade or replacing a dead MSI GPU?

Does it fit like a normal MSI MXM 1080 GPU would, or will you have build your own heat sink.

 

I just want to know if this Gtx 1080 works, this laptop is the perfect candidate I’ll have to cycle through some vbioses that’s for sure...

The card doesn’t fit in at all, way to long, had to take off the lower casing and put some tape on the HDMI connector to stop metal contact on the capacitors on that ‘tab’ at the top. I mean it boots into the bios, I guess that’s one accomplishment