The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

It's just a design error.

It's probably designed this way to avoid cracking the core and to 'cheapen out' on VRM cooling (same heatsink).
But the BGA chip is already extremely flat, and the pressure points cause a decrease in pressure. MSI probably never tested this or maybe they didn't care.

This is a LGA heatsink (MSI 16L13) but you can see that this is perfectly flat without anything to interrupt the pressure.

 

Maybe Msi think just about Vrmas to cool them well This is not so dangerous problem. Could I get 7-8 C difference just with 0.5 mm pads?

 

Now compare the GPU heatsink.
This is why Kryonaut works so good on the GPU heatsink (or anything else).
Look how flat it is?
There are no VRM's cooled by this. It's 'completely flat against the GPU, so no out of the ordinary pump out, and no curved IHS to cause air gaps. Because it goes directly against the exposed GPU.



Compare the GPU on the left (top) and the CPU on the right (bottom) in this picture.
I think it is obvious where the problem is when you look at the CPU heatsink again.

 

It will be better, but you still have to deal with the less pressure of cores 0 and 2. Not as bad but not perfect. Do you have sandpaper? Can you send 0.5mm of the two aluminum posts I linked?

 

The last GT73 Pro-866 I set up didn't have any core temperature differential, and it was running on stock paste. I tested it with Prime95 small FFT, and it cooled and ran fine at 4.5ghz.

Throughout this thread, others have done the same, testing their GT73's, and I don't recall any core temperature differentials that required return, RMA, or re-pasting until you started up here.

I wish you would stop trying to get people to ruin their GT73's by opening them up and screwing with them.

It's completely unnecessary, and for many will end in sorrow, or at least half a dozen repastings until they give up.

All that's needed is to undervolt -100mV at stock, and tune it for a nice OC. Then tune your fan curves.

You don't need to pull apart your laptop to reduce temps further than necessary. If you aren't thermal throttling, even with a core temperature differential, then you don't need to re-paste.

You keep suckering people into re-pasting, and it's a waste of time.

 

I will try just with 0.5 mm pads, nothing bad can happen with that. I think I am not good with sandpaper and I will **** something up I must try something now I have 18 C difference on 4 GHz. I have never have any thermal throttling on this laptop even without undervolting.

 

Ok, well then you never needed to re-paste at all

Now that you've opened pandora's box, you'll need to sort things out, or send it in to MSI for RMA to put it right again. You aren't the first that hit this kind of problem after opening up their perfectly good GT73 recently.

The first effort should always be to undervolt and then test, and never first off tell someone they must re-paste and all the other wild hacks that go with cracking open their perfectly good laptops.

Honestly that's why everyone loves the MSI GT73 / GT80 series, for 99% of new owners they never need to open their laptops to get them to work right.

Clevo's are different, and @Falkentyne wishes his GT73 was a Clevo, so he's treating them that way.

I can't wait till he gets his new Clevo and stops trying to get every new GT73 owner to hack their perfectly good laptop as part of his experiments.

It was so nice and peaceful and happy in here for so long...

 

Up to the people. They are not forced into repaste or mod their hardware. Same as I post how to do it. I don't force people to do what I prefer to do with my hardware. UP to the people, bruh

 

Forcing is also by verbally working people that don't know any better. They think it's all part of the experience, someone sounds like they know what they are talking about is telling them the way to "fix it" - when there is nothing that needs fixing, and starting them at the deep end of the pool instead of helping them get an easy software tuning that doesn't involve hardware hacking and BIOS power limits hacking.

You don't know what I am talking about I know, it doesn't occur to you that the norm for Clevo laptops isn't needed at all for MSI laptops.

No one needs to open their own GT73 and re-paste, no one, even without an undervolt they can use their laptops just fine.

Undervolting is enough if they want to venture into tuning their laptops. OC'ing if they want to play further.

But it's a progression of getting into the situation gradually, you don't send people in to do a hardware tear down making them think it's necessary to get a functional laptop.

It's not necessary.

 

I didn't needed to repaste when I got my Clevo(Yeah, it's a Clevo you know ). And I didn't needed to mod the IHS and heatsink either. The temp was perfectly fine when I got my laptop (even oc'd). But I wanted more... Higher clocks but with still low temp. In the same way as I have done with all my other laptops. And I don't need to repaste every 6 months. I needed repaste last time due the switch to Kaby lake - 1.5 years after I did the repaste. Now, 7 months after I put in the new Cpu and lid, I still have same nice temp as day one in June last year. If you think I regret? Nope

 

Your Clevo was a custom build that had tender loving care given it by the boutique vendor that assembled it for you. And you paid big $ to get it done right the first time.

They completed all the known "fixes" to your new Clevo before you ever saw it.

But I guess it's nice having you confirm that laptops don't *need* re-pasting.

MSI GT73's also don't need re-pasting. That's why people buy them. So going ahead and ripping them apart anyway is completely unnecessary, a big waste of time that might just make things worse than they were out of the box.

 

The boutique vendor here home ain't on level as @Donald@HIDevolution company And why would I pay $25 usd for this...? Not all are crippled directly out of the boutique vendor's door @Phoenix Artic Silver FTW ?

 

Well I repasted mine from the IC Diamond it came with to Liquid Ultra and got 10C cooler temps

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...eview-by-phoenix.801314/page-11#post-10517550

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...eview-by-phoenix.801314/page-14#post-10541023

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...eview-by-phoenix.801314/page-12#post-10517559

 

Yeah, but you didn't *need* to do that did you? There were no thermal throttling problems to fix. So what did those lower temps get you?, nothing. Your GT73 didn't need re-pasting, it wasn't thermal throttling, and neither do 99% of the others.

You came from the Clevo world, and wanted a recommendation for a laptop you didn't need to mess with, and had a nice keyboard, that's why I recommended it to you.

That you went ahead and tore it open anyway was likely force of habit, and there's nothing wrong with you doing that because you are good at it, with lots of years of experience.

My complaint with @Falkentyne is he is telling newbies that have no clue what's up what they need to do and they don't need to do it.

Now there are several of them that painted themselves into a corner with poorer results than they started out of the box with, and now they need to waste even more time fixing something that wasn't broke.

There's no need to tell any of these guys that they need to re-paste. None of them should have gotten involved with it at all, and I am guessing more than one is regretting getting involved in tearing apart their brand new laptop that was functioning just fine.

Lowering temps further after the laptop is not thermal throttling is a waste of effort. It's not going to improve anything.

And, it's a big unnecessary risk for people that haven't done it before at all, or even those that have done desktops but not laptops.

Instead a quick download and configuring -100mV undervolt does more than enough for 99% of the owners, and the other 1% should probably return theirs for another unit that works fine without the owner servicing it themselves.

How can you justify ruining people's new laptop experience by getting them to re-paste unnecessarily and then getting into trouble?

 

This design defect is in every GT73VR.
I have searched all GT73's here, Baidu, elsewhere, all of them have core temp differentials between core 0/2 and core 1/3 with 0/2 always hotter.
On stock paste (the basic thermal stamp) I had over 10C difference in core 3 and core 2 when running prime95, without AVX...

 

Well what I did gain by doing that is I was able to up my overclock from 4.2 GHz on all cores to 4.4 GHz on all cores with a -44mV undervolt whereas before I had to do a -100mV undervolt to keep the temps under control with the 4.2 GHz overclock.

 

Not trying to tell newbies to destroy their heatsinks.
I'm trying to educate people on what the problem is and how to fix it.
You need to accept that there is a design issue with these laptops.
Are you trying to say that Jack, Ivan and Genocid all have perfect even core temps and are lying about their temps? Of course not.

You need to get off MSI's high horse and stop acting like they make perfect hardware.
Yes it's better than Alienware by far, and it IS the best BGAbook you can buy. But the way they designed their heatsink causes problems. The 16L13 does not have the heatsink mounting pressure used in cooling the VRM's, nor does it have standoffs for balance (due to HS shape). But there is a very good and clear reason that BOTH Alienware and MSIbooks have higher core temps on cores 0 and 2 compared to 1 and 3 ! It's because the same type of VRM cooling issue is on both laptops. It just isn't as bad on the MSI because it isn't tripod. But it's still there.

Yes, MOST users will NOT notice it on stock paste as long as the "thermal stamp" does not dry out But dry out it will eventually because there is still a pressure problem. And then once it dries out, and you repaste, then you notice the problem afterwards, if you are not using IC diamond. Even on LM you can notice the problem, because core 0 and 2 temps will slowly rise higher than cores 1 and 3, and if you look at the heatsink after this happens, and the CPU die, you will see something obvious:

1) bottom of CPU (cores 1 and 3) will look like there is very little LM around it.
2) top of CPU (cores 0 and 3) will have more collection of LM there.
3) hardened LM will be more around the top (heatsink side) than the bottom.

This is because there is more pressure on cores 1 and 3 than 0 and 2, so the LM will shift slightly towards the part with less pressure. Eventually the part with less pressure will oxidize more and then you will notice the change.

With regular pastes, this basically the pump out/dry out syndrome.
Because the BGA chip is almost flat and barely higher than the housing area, and there are standoffs going to the right and top (where the HS extends past the CPU area), and there is bracing pressure on the mainboard for support and VRM's for cooling, you are going to have a core differential issue.

Sanding 0.5mm off the two square aluminum posts on the heatsink, and using 0.5mm pads on the VRM's will help allow more pressure on cores 0 and 2, which help reduce this problem.
It's very clear that the reason for the standoffs to be there to begin with is so when installing the CPU, the heatsink won't "tilt" to the right. But this is not a problem anyway. You just apply even pressure and do partial turns rather than full turns of the screws. So these standoffs and supports simply reduce pressure on an already low pressure heatsink.

There's a reason I achieved closer core temps after this.

 

Anyone have bat /vbs file for auto undervolting & overclock cpu ? Thanks

Sent from my CPH1723 using Tapatalk

 

No, you cannot sand aluminium, I tried it and was not able to shave off a bit.

I did discuss this core temp uneven back in this thread....I never tried 0.5mm thermal pads...took the long road and lap the HS end up with 2 to 3 degree difference between cores but with following result (snap shot has been posted back in thread)

Core0# 78
Core1# 76
Core2# 73
Core3# 71

and no matter how many times I do repaste (different pastes including LM), Core0 and Core1 nearly equal or 2 to 3 degree difference and Core0 always hotter and Core#3 always lower

 

Ha! I went looking after my post and found your thread with all the links/fixes. Stopped google reporter and used O&O. O&O is ridiculous! That is quit a lot of bang for the buck from one little free program.

Just a question though Pheonix. There are a lot of links about telemetry and keystroke recording...etc but was that before O&O came out? I'm not sure what to do as it looks like O&O covered about 1/3 of those links in the windows 10 tweaks and fixes thread you made. There is also another win10 tweak program that looks like it stops some of the telemetry stuff but just a lot less coverage than the O&O program. Maybe I'm wrong and they are all different tweaks.... Not really sure what to do now as it's a bit overwhelming with all the telemetry tweaks/fixes links and I don't want to screw anything up lol

 

There is no problem with 99% of out of the box MSI GT73's that's worth pulling them apart.

Unless their CPU is thermal throttling the thermals aren't affecting performance, and unless the highest core temp is thermal throttling the core temp differential isn't a material problem either.

All of the those guys confirm this, and so far none of them have improved their situation by tearing apart their laptop - they weren't thermal throttling before and if they are now it's because they took apart their brand new laptop at your advice.

All of these laptops would have been fine with a -100mV undervolt at stock settings, and they could have been done with all of this and back to enjoying their laptops in a few minutes. Instead you have ruined their new laptop experience with your misguided advice.

I'm not saying it's perfect, I am saying it's working perfectly fine if it's not thermal throttling after undervolting.

You need to stop wasting peoples time telling them all to repaste their GT73's unnecessarily, and getting them painted into a corner that requires sending their laptops back to MSI to set them right again.

You don't know the assembly procedure that MSI uses, and your results are all showing that. You're "method" says they must sand down their heatsinks for them to get back to the out of the box results they no longer have. That's just downright silly.

You've made their new laptop experience worse for all of them, and even though they recognize that, you refuse to.

For months going on to years after release GT73 owners have been doing great undervolting as a method of dropping load temps by 10c, and them quickly getting back to using their laptops.

Now you come along and everyone *needs* to re-paste and hack their BIOS to get the benefits and results you insist they must have, you don't think that's odd??

I sure do, and I makes me sad that you are getting away with screwing with people and their perfectly good laptops.

You need to stop doing this, really you do.

Spoiler

You clearly have no connection with electronics manufacturing so you are deriding a standard method of applying thermal paste used everywhere, it's no different than spool feeding parts to install.

You make it sound like this is some horrible thing, when it's perfectly normal.

A CPU is square, it needs a square layer of paste, so a machine puts down a measured square of paste on it. Why is that so offensive to you, it's perfectly normal.

There's nothing wrong with it. In fact that paste is designed to last a long time, the formulation isn't going to give the best temps, but it is going to give the longest service, as that's how it's formulated.

That thermal paste is meant to last through the life of the laptop so the manufacturer doesn't need to service it under warranty, not like enthusiast pastes that are meant to give a brief lower temp lifetime that need redoing more frequently.

You are wasting every one's time with this. There is no benefit to it.

These laptops weren't thermal throttling out of the box, they simply needed a single tuned item, the undervolt and that drops temps more than enough to give a cushion of 10c lower temps without tearing apart the laptop.

You can get lower temps by going through all you are suggesting, but there is no need for it.

1. You are misrepresenting the *need* for re-pasting. There is no need for 99% of the GT73 owners.

2. You jump right to extreme solutions without starting with undervolting and measuring the load temps - if there is no thermal throttling there is no need to re-paste.

3. You aren't informing people that there is no performance improvement from what you are telling them to do. If there is no thermal throttling there is no improvement lowering temps even further.

4. You keep experimenting and changing the approach week by week, you are using these people as guinea pigs and ruining their new laptop experience, and you don't care.

I do care, that's why I keep countering your ridiculous claims that everyone needs to make these hardware alterations to get their laptop to function. They don't. And, eventually they realize it too.

If you can't bring yourself to start helping people by using a less drastic method, asking them to undervolt first, and help them discover that their peak temps are rarely reached, that the CPU isn't thermal throttling and therefore there is no need to repaste, then you need to back off and stop "helping" people.

It's a waste of time doing things to their laptops that might paint them into a corner requiring RMA to set it right, which has happened already, and looks like will continue to happen.

The outcome of helping 99% of new GT73 owners should be undervolting, not re-pasting.

You have no sense of proportion and are wasting everyone's time and effort on useless modifications that provide no real benefits.

You are clearly obsessed with this, and can't let go, and you are pulling others down with you, please stop.

 

The GT73 Pro-866 7820HK 1080 I tuned didn't need LM, or any repaste at all to run at 4.5ghz without thermal throttling.

Also, besides us few enthusiasts, there is no reason for the average GT73 owner to go through all of that re-paste - time after time - perfecting their technique and materials, because when it comes down to it, the performance benefits aren't going to make any difference in their day to day usage.

The stock GT73 7820HK + 1080 is already going to reach G-sync FPS levels, and most of the performance improvements, small as they are, gained from futher OC'ing is going to be lopped off the top by V-sync / RTSS anyway.

Admit it, it's a fun game unto itself, but it's not a game to advise people to get in to, it's not required for 99% of people's expectations from their new laptop.

For everyone else, installing hwinfo64, logging the temperatures, undervolting, and knowing that their laptop isn't thermal throttling is more than enough. They can stop there.

A few will want to go further with OC'ing, and that can be done pleasantly enough without hacking the BIOS power limits, or re-pasting with conductive paste that could ruin their laptop easily - and has on many occasions to others motivated by unwarranted desire to have the lowest temperatures, even though their laptops aren't thermal throttling.

That extra 200mhz isn't worth the effort, and it's not going to be noticed at all in day to day use.

In fact most of us only benchmark on those highest OC's, we don't run them day to day, we drop the multipliers back down to 42x, undervolt some more to keep temps down, and also lower the GPU OC, and enable Balanced / Adaptive power on the CPU / GPU, and we run these detuned settings most of the time.

So for day to day use these mod's are all useless wastes of time, basically glamour mod's, the equivalent motivation to taking "selfies".

Anyway, another week, another reality check post to hopefully save some new GT73 owners from ruining their perfectly good laptops for no good reason. Undervolt at most, and enjoy your new laptop.

 

That's right, aluminum work needs special tools and technique's to avoid galling and stopping up the tools with soft aluminum. You will go through a lot of dry sandpaper before getting anywhere.
https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=11877

That's a great result, I would be happy with it.

CPU's will exhibit 5c-6c core temp differential on average, which is fine, some will approach 8c-10c, but as long as your hottest core isn't causing thermal throttling the CPU - which will affect all core performance - you can ignore it.

Undervolting -100mV will drop 100% all core load temps about 10c, which is enough to counteract high core temp differentials and / or higher overall temps.

The joy of undervolting is that a CPU that was running in the 90c range, with 93c the typical thermal throttling point (check ark.intel.com for exact number for your CPU model) will run in the 80c range after undervolting, without tearing apart your laptop to re-paste.

An owner can still re-paste if that's "their thing", but it's functionally unnecessary, basically a glamour mod to give you a warm feeling of accomplishment.

Nothing wrong with that, but for most people it's not their thing, their thing is using their laptop for the reason they bought it.

Thanks for posting your experiences.

 

yea i went up to 85 and 75 on cores 2 and 4 but as ive said i dont have any thermal throttling now im usng custom fans -100mv on 4.0ghz and not a problem at all gettin 896 in cinebench. before repoaste i was trottling on even a little oc. so it was neccessary @hmscott to repaste because as ive said many times i ws getting 90-99 temps on 4ghz with -100mv and thermal throttling ver often. im not using any XTU or DC i set icc max core to 1000 in bios as well as negative 100 offset and 4.0 ghz everything in bios. so ill stick with it untill i see temps getting close to 90 again.
this is my regular temps after 8h running laptop and some work with plugins vsts in fl studio.
it might looks ****e in if u compare to cpu ussage but when cpu is on 100% load it doesnt exceed 77 c only in ACO it goes up to 82+ in few hours extreme gaming 86 but average is always around 78 78 66 65 or something like that in ACO game. and btw ACO is not optimilized properly so everybody has a very high cpu usage in this game.

btw im concstantly on high performance mode

 

Temperatures up to Throttle territory is all too high. 85°C is the max you should run for longevity/stability. And it's stated that Kaby/Skylake start to become unstable if you have put decent overclock and run above this temp threshold. And 85°C Cpu temp is still too much in my book. But that's me

 

People who talk about max temp up to throttle territory is fine or safe... They have missed There are even Notebook brand who put Cpu throttle threshold temp to around 85/86°C

 

Sorry man, I don't agree that 85c is the max you should run for longevity / stability, that's BS you are making up and spouting.

And, you agree: "But that's me"

And, for most owners they won't sustain any particular temperature for longer than a few seconds, let alone 85c, the thermals will vary core by core due to load, and when gaming the load is constantly changing.

You could run for a very long time under 100c Tj max, and be just fine.

You are not convincing to me, and I hope to no one else.

As long as the CPU isn't thermal throttling, the CPU is happy to put out full performance, up to the power limits.

 

Yeah, exactly... It's My BS. Haven't even written the articles. I'm sure you have look into the hundreds of millions or even billions computers out there. Oh'well, I can finally see here... One single man who think he have and know the whole truth. And the overclockers out there have wrong as always.

What more can be said?

 

Yes, and I've said many times you should have returned that laptop instead of wasting time trying to fix it yourself, risking your laptop warranty and future stability.

You paid a lot of money for that brand new laptop, and you went ahead and pulled it apart to fix it? Who does that?

Would you disassemble your brand new car to fix it? If your new TV was flaky would you pull that apart to fix it? How about any other complex piece of equipment? Would you pull apart your pace maker, or your insulin pump?

Maybe if there was a support group with Frik and Frak there to walk you through the complexities of disassembly and reassembly, with "thermal paste" and "thermal pad" recommendations, photo's and hints and kinks - what to look out for when taking it apart and putting it back together?

Using "Cellulose Nail Polish" to make sure the Caustic Conductive Thermal paste doesn't leak out of your pacemaker and short out your dumb-ass?

I hope you are getting my point, it's idiotic to do what you guys are doing, but because there are some yahoo's on the internet telling you you can successfully do what trained engineers and technicians have worked for years to gain expertise in to be successful, you're gonna nail it and be 100% successful on your first go around.

You guyz is funny

 

Intel, the guys that made the CPU's say it's fine. All the professionals that run their servers at high constant thermal's say it's fine. Hundreds of thousands of servers, run by companies that maintain data on the uptime, thermals, performance and failures to get the most from their hardware, none of them "re-paste" - they'd laugh at you.

The guy sitting in the cold with a consumer laptop doesn't know, you know?

Again, the 80c-90c range is fine, when undervolting that's easily attained with the 7820HK even when OC'd on stock thermal paste, right out of the box.

That's what I'm saying, 1 easy software setting change, avoiding all this mess you guys create and "fix", the single setting that everyone has been using for years now, simply tuning their CPU and getting back to using their laptop.

That's all people want, to learn how to simply get what they need out of their laptop, to get confirmation that their thermals are ok. And for the most part they are, and undervolting solves the rest of them, with few exceptions.

You aren't supposed to self-support your new laptop hardware, a little software tuning is all that is needed. It's that simple. No need to waste so much time making it more complicated, for no good reason whatsoever.

 

Yeah, Yoo post exactly same <good> advices as the well known Dell support technicians in support phones. This make me wonder... Where you get your training from.

 

If you are referring to Dell saying it's ok to run above thermal throttling temperature, I don't - say that or agree with that as the CPU reduces performance, so you want to find the thermal throttling temperature and get below it.

If the cooling of the laptop doesn't let you do that then return it. Don't waste time trying to fix it yourself. Buy something that works out of the box with a little software tuning.

If the vendor can't build the hardware to work out of the box, find another vendor.

Like the MSI GT73, which works fine out of the box for 99% of the buyers, if you get a bad one, return it, and the next one should be fine, like all the rest.

 

return for what? to pay extra 90 euros and same **** happens next 6 months? yea i rather did it myself, cos i dont have time waitin weeks for msi tehnician like u fixing my laptop . yea i would reassembly car if it would be as easy as repaste this model and from the other side i like to do it so what? i took apart HS and there was no paste left on cpu if u happy with it go undervolt and enjoy just to keeps temps as they should be when u bought it. AND I TOLD YOU BEFORE I OPENED BECAUSE I HAVE A PRIVATE FCKIN INSURANCE FOR ANY ACCIDENTAL SPLIT BROKEN DROP INTERNL EXTERNAL DAMAGE on my laptop so i was more confident. i paid too much money to be undervolted .
one thats funny is u, u looks like paid msi emplyee or something man

 

I didn't say to RMA it, I said to return it and get your money back or get another unit, that's what you do when you get defective hardware.

Yeah, that insurance doesn't include you opening your laptop, taking apart the cooling system, and messing around with it. Call them up and ask, we'll wait.

BTW, I hope you aren't saying that if you messed it up internally you'd drop it and break it on purpose to collect on the damage insurance, because that is insurance fraud you are admitting to publicly on the internet... just saying.

Ah, you have a misconception about what "undervolting" means.

It doesn't mean less voltage = less power.

It means tune the CPU voltage to be what it needs, not overvolted for what it needs, generating needless thermal energy.

It means optimizing your laptop performance, lowering your peak temperature, and avoiding taking apart your laptop and voiding your warranty.

It's the better of the 2 options, the most logical, and the most technically savvy.

Having done this for 30+ years, and many years before PC's existed on other electronics communications hardware, I know what I am talking about. Not only that I'm the guy that figured this stuff out and posted some of the first information on it 30+ years ago.

I'm trying to help, but you aren't listening. You think you know better when you clearly have many misconceptions.

That's ok man, it takes time to learn, I'm here for you, make the call.

 

I just got 75/75/74/74 on my last test just now
Prime95, small FFT, 4.5 ghz, AVX disabled, 1.175v, IA AC DC loadline=5

Then at 4.7 ghz I got 87/86/88/86 or something close.(1.271v, IA AC DC=5, prime small FFT AVX disabled).

Priming right now at 4.5 ghz again and temps are 75/74/75/75 after 15 minutes.
it was actually stuck at 73/73/73/73 for a bit.

Am I good or am I good?
@Shehary @hmscott @Papusan

Ok, just sand the heatsink down, flatten it and use 0.5mm thermal pads instead of 1mm. Forget about the posts.

@GENOCID, have you tried lapping the heatsink with a sanding kit? Just the copper surface not the posts, which I think are not aluminum....but who knows (good ones come with a glass plate), that combined with the 0.5mm pads should help.

Prime RIGHT NOW is 75/74/75/75!

@GENOCID: something like this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-premium-heatsink-lapping-kit.html

Or you can buy it at a local hardware store.
Just buy 200, 400 and 800 grit sand paper and find a sheet of glass from a frame and some strong tape along with a razor blade. Job done! (quoted).

If you want a mirror finish you can get up to 2000 grit.

 

not yet in few weeks ill do that def

 

Since NONE of you guys believe me, here are my temps after 1 hour of prime95 AVX disabled.
I just stopped the test after I took this SS.
@Shehary @hmscott @Papusan @GENOCID

 

Since you are the tech guy here (And all the others have wrong or don't have a clue on what they talk about)...I expect you have take in account Intel's own specification for Digital Thermal Sensor (DTS) Accuracy who is +/- 5°C. In the worst case 86°C can be more like +90°C or even better 90°C more like 95°C. But in your world can't this be true!!
And you have no headroom for increased temp (Dust will build up etc). Oh'well nice running your chips right below thermal throttling threshold. What a great advices to the computer owners. I say no thanks. The others should do the same as well. Yeah, You should know it... Not all tech guys is trustworthy or have the needed/proper knowledge

 

i7 7700hq Kaby Lake Overheating Issue Under Heavy Load on a Gaming Laptop
https://communities.intel.com/thread/111750

"Hi,

My CPU temps reach up to 90 C and hovers between 85-90 C under heavy load on a gaming laptop. I know TJ Max is 100 C but I feel worried for the long-term use of the processor. I don't think my cpu temps are in the safe zone. Is there any known compatibility issues of Kaby Lake with Windows 10? Should I be worried with my temps?

Thanks and best regards, XXXX"


Correct Answer by Intel Corporation on Feb 24, 2017 1:18 PM

Hello XXXX:

In regard to your question, if the temperatures are below 100°C then the processor is working fine, as long as the laptop is not throttling, freezing or going off by itself you do not need to worry about the temperature.

Also, there are no known issues of Kaby Lake processors having a temperature problem with Windows® 10.

However in this case since you are using a laptop you can always get in contact with the manufacturer of it to confirm the information above.

Also, we do have a tool to test the temperature of the processor, it was build to be used on desktop boards but you can always run it on your laptop to verify the report:

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19792/Intel-Processor-Diagnostic-Tool

Any further questions, please let me know.

Regards, XXXXX..."

There you go, a Correct Answer direct from Intel - the maker of the CPU, or are you not going to believe them either?

 

Mine passes with flying colors at 5.2GHz, ring at 4.7GHz and the DDR4-3200 overclocked to 3500. Nowhere close to stock specs, but well within the safe zone for temps and 100% stable pushing 196% of stock TDP limits. Not even a hint of throttling crap. Pretty brutal test, too.

 

just ran aida for not even minute not sure if its cos laptop runnin 18h+ but will do repaste sooner than planned defo
core temps diference nearly 20c lol that core 2 pissin me off all the time highest even much higher sometimes that core 0 @Falkentyne @Papusan

 

Before I uploaded my last picture, early this morning, I actually decided to sand down the copper heatsink so it was more flat and shiny. I think this made a lot of difference, along with the 0.5mm pads.
Rocking 1C core temp difference now at 4.5ghz.

Basically i used an educated guess.
I saw that cores 0 and 2 are the stinker hot ones.
So I took 400 grit sandpaper to this side of the heatsink where I saw the *cooler* cores, to try to create a little better balance:



Not too many strokes, just a little to see a tiny bit of copper came off. If cores 0 and 2 are far too hot, then there's clearly too much pressure on cores 1 and 3. and not enough on cores 0 and 2!
You can also do a "rice dot" sized pressure test with toothpaste, in the middle of the CPU, attach the heatsink, screw it down, remove it and check for spread patterns!!

Then I took fine grit (polishing) sand paper to the entire heatsink to make sure there was absolutely no residue of the old stuff on at all.

End result with liquid metal: perfect temps. (only when doing something high like 4.7 ghz or running AVX do the temps start getting a bit imbalanced, but still amazingly good at 4.7 ghz).

 

If anyone cares, heres another prime95 @Papusan hates burning up the CPU test I was doing while I was playing PUBG on my ancient 2600k desktop.

 

Be Happy you checked all 4 boxes and not only the box with Stress FPU It could be nasty And even worse if you clicked Stress Gpu on top if you had TRIPOD

 

Those temps are truly ludicrous. I wonder if it even has any thermal paste at all. Maybe the person that assembled it screwed up and slapped it together dry on accident. If it had the square phase-change waxy TIM pad pre-applied on the heat sink from the factory, maybe he/she forgot to peel off the plastic protective film. I suppose anyone can have a bad day. I am not fond of any turdbooks, but MSI usually does a little better job of things than that... pretty horrible... at only 4.0GHz that should be closer to about 65-75°C under 100% load with little or no undervolt if the cooling system is properly designed and working correctly, but 97°C is cray-cray.

 

With a 7820 maybe but it would seem like the 6820 isn't as efficient. My temps are just fine until I get into 3.9GHz+. With the prime 95 smallFFT @3.73 GHz (I have it set at 39x but for some reason XTU reads 3.73GHz when running prime95 small FFT) with a -100 undervolt and my temps are 90/83/90/82. We know why the imbalance is there but the temps will be no where near 65-75C. @4.0GHz.

Maybe someone else here with a 6820 GT73 can chime in with their temps @ 4.0GHz with prime 95 small FFT to confirm?

 

yea i ran only fpu after a few days after repaste and it went to 92 i think where in cpu stress etc was 83 max so paste must gettin dry cos core 1 and 3 has a very good temps in everything and always. im gonna do snother repaste today so hopefully ill do better job this time

 

Did you disable AVX instructions? With newer CPU's they really overheat with Prime95 AVX enabled. @Mr. Fox and others sharing their temps likely disable AVX with Prime95 to avoid roasting their CPU's.

Recheck your core temp differentials after disabling the AVX instructions...

How do I turn off AVX in Prime95?
http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-intel-cpus/1631213-how-do-i-turn-off-avx-prime95.html

How do you disable AVX in Prime95
http://www.mersenneforum.org/showthread.php?t=21462

That's pretty cool that you can do a -100mV undervolt @ high OC... you might try a run with -25mV and -50mV to see if you can maintain configured clockrate.

At highest OC a too high undervolt that is unstable but doesn't crash the OS can exhibit odd effects of instability.

Watch your prime95 compute threads with -100mV undervolt at 4.0ghz, some threads might be dying - odd behavior on the edge of stability but the OS isn't crashing - you may not be noticing. This edge of instability could explain the 3.7ghz vs 4.0ghz problem.

No one is mentioning adjusting their fan curve ( @GENOCID ) as that is another step in tuning (undervolt, OC, fan curve) to reduce temps at highest load / OC. DGC or Silent Option.

How to customize fan speed and system performance with Dragon Center?


(Updated:2016/05/06)"Silent Option" Fan Control Application for MSI Laptops
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255972.0

You can also usually shave off some C's by adjusting the laptop relative to the surface. Lift the front and back off the surface, with the back elevated higher by an inch, to assist convective cooling from front to back. Make sure your laptop is venting hot air into open space, and the hot exhaust is not reflecting back at the laptop by hitting a wall or corner where the heat collects.

Combining undervolting, OC tuning for optimal performance vs thermals, tuning the fan for best cooling under load with quiet operation at idle, and using a laptop stand to assist convective cooling, 99% of the GT73's won't need to be re-pasted.

Spoiler: Re-pasting + non-MSI service

Often re-pasting isn't as easy as you think it is, with lots of factors needing to be taken into account when re-attaching the components. It may take 3-4 times or more the first time hands-on for a new laptop to get it right.

If you are going to start don't do it if you won't be able to follow through, otherwise you will need to RMA to get it fixed.

I don't recommend using a non-MSI approved PC Repair service to get it fixed either as they will be in the same situation you are, without info on how to put it back together, and they won't be as dogged and persistent as you are as at some point they will exceed their quote budget and it will turn into a loss for them, so they will stop re-pasting and "declare it's *done*" rather than continuing until they master it and get the best results.