*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I never changed my vr current limit it's still stock. And I will keep it that way as I don't run anything ever that makes it throttle. Only when I try to test my system for others. Why would I run prime95 for fun anyway? ^^ I do get why you would need to adjust it on the i9, and possibly on the 8850h. On my cpu it's not even worth booting into bios.

 

What are the best OC settings for the 7820 hk?
My highest scores in 3D Mark were
17846 for Firestrike
7028 for timespy

Are there other people who overclocked to 4,2 GHz? If so please post your scores

 

17796 and 7342, with 391.35. But probably could do better now.

 

Total score doesn’t tell you nothing. But Firestrike physics should be well above 13250 with 4.2GHz on unlocked Kaby BGA.

 

Im thinking in buy a HD660 s from sennheiser, the GT75-8RG will be able to get the full potencial of the headphones with the ess sabre system?

 

Have you had open transducer headphones before? They sound lovely, but aren't usable around others, especially at work - they put out a lot of sound outside your head, enough that it will wake people up cubes away.

https://en-us.sennheiser.com/headphones-audiophile-high-end-hd-660-s

Transducer principle (headphones)
Dynamic, open

Impedance
150 Ω - a mid-range impedance tough to drive with a cell phone / consumer electronics, but they can with the volume a little higher, or an external AMP.

These are 150 Ω impedance while the ESS Sabre favors higher impedance headphones, like 300 Ω - 600 Ω. The 150 Ω will work too.

Sennheiser believes in the ESS Sabre DAC / AMP, they have a headphone combo including it:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/headphones-audiophile-high-end-hd-660-s-apogee

Here's the 300 Ω version of the HD650:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/high-quality-headphones-around-ear-audio-surround-hd-650

Here's the Classic design, $200 cheaper too.
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/best-audio-headphones-high-end-stereo-hifi-hd-600

Also the ESS Sabre DAC / AMP aren't "expensive" electronics, but it's a bump above the normal built-in audio, and is meant to drive high impedance audiophile headphones.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops...tion_about_the_msi_ess_sabre_hifi_dac_and_my/

Click "closed acoustic design" in this list of Sennheiser models if you want to use your headphones around other people:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/high-end-headphones

Here is another model from that list at the same price point:
https://en-us.sennheiser.com/high-quality-stereo-headphones-around-ear-hd-630vb

Impedance 23 Ω - this is the typically low impedance consumer electronics like cell phones like to drive. High impedance headphones seem to be on the "out's" as even at Sennheiser I couldn't find a 600 model at the same price point. It seems the deluge of cell phone listeners are driving the market to lower impedance models.

If you want a 600 Ω headphone, check out Beyerdynamics headphones:
High End
https://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/kopfhorer-headsets.html?anwendung=908
Semi-Open 600 Ω
https://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/t-1.html
Closed - 32 Ω, I think you can get 250 Ω / 600 Ω models, this is the north american site offering, you might check out some import sites or headphone audiophile specialist sites.
https://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/catalog/product/view/id/3876/s/t-5-p/category/1464/

Here's an inexpensive Beyerdynamic model, 600 / 250 / 32 Ω model for $199

beyerdynamic DT880 Premium 600 / 250 / 32 ohm Semi-Open Over Ear Hi-Fi Stereo Headphones
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-DT880-Premium-600Beyerdynamic-headphones/dp/B07DHX5TZ4?th=1

Beyerdynamic DT 880 PRO - 250 Ohm Semi-Open Studio Headphones (Limited Edition)
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-880-PRO-Studio-Headphones/dp/B079P9H1SH

Beyerdynamic DT 990 Premium 600 ohm HiFi headphones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024NK34O

beyerdynamic DT 1990 PRO Studio open Reference Headphones - $598
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic...1KM9EJ7I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Spoiler: Review...

yeah. these.
By Paul R.on June 30, 2017
Color: Black | Verified Purchase
For reference, I own or have owned DT880/600s, DT770/80s, T90s, HD600s, 598s, 712Pros, and have spent a goodly amount of time with the LCD-2s, HD800s, and the DT1990's big brothers, the T1/v2s. I have been amping the dt1990s with all kinds of stuff, but have found the best synergy with the Beyerdynamic A20 and the Lake People RS 02.

I listen mostly to 1950s-1960s jazz. Think Roach and Brown, Ammons and Stitt, Blakey, Silver, Mingus, Ellington, Gillespie, Monk, Peterson, Davis, Coltrane, Coleman, Green, Montgomery, Hubbard, Shorter, etc. etc. A lot of Zorn (mainly Masada) and some contemporary classical (Reich, Riley, Bryars, Arnalds, Frahm, Guonadottir). When I'm listening to pop, it's usually stuff by Nick Cave, Greg Cartwright, or Jason Molina (RIP). Oh, also, Thee Oh Sees are the shiz.

Let me just say that the DT1990s come ready to rumble no matter your tastes. Simply put, they just feel "right." That is, from the moment I put them on, I had the sense that I was finally hearing the music as the engineer intended. No coloration. No tricks, no treats. Just the straight business (for better and worse, depending on the quality of the original recording). It puts you right in the studio, in the first few rows of the concert hall, or at that corner table close enough to share your drink with the drummer. As transparent a set of headphones as I've ever heard. Now, I've always loved the HD600s for jazz (personally, far more than the HD650s), but I always felt that something was missing...a more robust low end. In this sense, the DT1990s deliver fully on the promise of the HD600s. Just as neutral, just as precise in terms of imaging, but with a more rock solid and effortless delivery (and much better built and loads more comfortable on the head).

Ultimately, these headphones are miles beyond the other headphones I own (with the HD600s a distant second [though still a terrific set of phones]) The HD800s are fantastic, but in truth, I always found the soundstaging too exaggerated for the sort of small ensemble/chamber stuff I listen to. Really, they always took me out of the scene instead of putting me there as the DT1990s do. Personally, I've never found planar magnetics to play all that well with jazz and the LCD-2s are no exception. Just a tad on the slow side for my taste. I always felt like they were playing catch up through really busy sections, and frankly, just a touch dark. The T1s might be more detailed, but not $400+ more detailed IMHO. I say skip the T1s and invest in these bad boys instead.

And regarding the price: sure, it seems a bit steep. But like all passive transducers, these headphones should last you decades. Hell, I'm still in love with (and have never felt compelled to replace) my mid-90s JBL monitors. Do yourself a favor and skimp on that new TV (which, if not relative junk from day one, will be obsolete in 4 years or dead in 8) and treat yourself to these, your new best friends for life.

Oh, and by the way, I've never reviewed a product on Amazon before. With that in mind, the very fact that you are reading this review right now does these headphones more justice than my words ever could.

yeah. these. you need these.

 

I love them but need choose one im good with open headphones since i will use them at home, DT 1990 Pro is a very good headphone too.

 

Omg that’s sick. How did you manage to get these amazing scores?
What do you mean with 391.35?

I didn’t know that. Graphics score was 23391, physics was 13261 so you were right but it’s just a little above 13250. Is that score still fine?

 

I got 13350.

 

Driver version. And Nvidia overclocked - probably memory too far as I suspect some downclocking.

 

About correct physics scores for Kaby [email protected].

 

What do you guys think about IC Graphite Thermal Pads for this laptop?

 

i let you know when i get my order in 2-3 days

 

Probably same as medium quality thermal paste.

 

Slightly worse than Arctic MX-4 paste.
May be cheaper to buy the Panasonic Soft-PGS pad from digikey directly as you get a much larger pad for the same price as the IC branded pad if you're going to use that.

I suspect it will be slightly better than the MSI stock paste. Benefits however is that you "should" have lower core temp differentials, due to the pad being thicker, and it won't wear out. It's good for a "put it on and forget about it forever" item, you won't have 10C core temp differentials, but don't expect great thermal performance. Gel Maker Nano should be 5C better.

 

Two questions:
1) Where are you guys installing the thermal pads on this. I'll prolly wait to install the pads until I need to take off the heat pipes for some reason, and repaste at the same time.
2) Anybody got a service manual for this thing? I can't find it anywhere, just the crappy user manual from their site. And seriously, it's actually designed that to access the A banks of RAM or replace the keyboard or keys you have to disassemble the entire motherboard?!!!

 

There's a disassembly video posted some pages back for this laptop.

For thermal pads, I recommend Arctic 0.5mm thermal pads to replace the 1mm thermal pads on the *CPU*. Also stretch them out a bit as well. You don't need perfect contact. I've run 4.9 ghz with 0.5mm pads on the CPU so there is no risk. For GPU: use 1mm Arctic pads. No need to waste money on expensive fujipoly overpriced crap, 60% of the size of the Arctic pads for higher cost. It's a scam. I've put 230W through my GTX 1070 (TDP mod) with just Arctic pads. You don't need overpriced stuff.

The VRM "elevation" is what causes core temp differentials between cores 0/2/4 compared to cores 1/3/5 (0/2 vs 1/3 on 7820HK), so you want as little contact as possible while there still being 'some' contact. The more contact the worse because it reduces heatsink pressure on that side of the cores facing the VRM's. You have a slightly convex BGA core and a convex heatsink. What could possibly go wrong when two convex surfaces touch each other?

 

Thanks! I wouldn't have figured on thermal pads for the CPU and GPU vs "paste". Also interesting on the differentials, I wouldn't have thought of that, I'm used to getting just enough, but full coverage of my heat spreader on desktop systems.

 

Desktop systems don't have heatsinks on the CPU that are also cooling VRM's and thus have atrocious mounting pressure while being imbalanced. They are usually firmly balanced with much higher static pressure. In addition, the heat spreader itself on de-lidded CPU's help spread the heat evenly to the IHS surface, so you only have bad core temp differentials if the LM repaste under the delid was poorly done.

If you were thinking about removing all of the thermal pads on the CPU and just using paste, that would most likely also work but I don't know anyone who has done it. Just make sure you use a thick paste and not something thin like Kryonaut. But that's at your own risk.
That would be a very good test to do if you wanted to see if you had very low or no core temp differentials with "paste" on the VRM's and chokes (thick paste, like Gel maker Nano, or Phobya Nanogrease Extreme), and then you did have differentials with 0.5mm arctic pads (you will definitely have them big time with 1mm pads).

The GPU has a completely different VRM plate from the GPU heat plate, so there is no such thing as imbalance on there.

 

Donald explained the reason behind sending the whole package back now and it makes sense, so I edited my original post.

Sorry for ranting yall. This has just been SUPREMELY frustrating, and has essentially torpedoed plans I've been making for months. So yes, I went off initially upon making the call. Like I initially said, I shouldn't have. But I can't take that back so...yeah.

Anyways, that'll probably be the last post I make here. Sorry again. And sorry to Donald and Vivian for being a supreme asshole and yelling/ranting about this. I just really want this to work. Really, that's all. And...yeah

 

You always have the right to talk if something not is right as you expected even if is your fault or not...

 

help how to set the fan curve, my fans run at more than 80C for gpu during gaming, what fan curve software do you use? DGC or third party apps?

 

What is the best way to load GPU and monitor its temperatures?
I will attempt to repaste everything with MasterGel Maker Nano and will try out IC Graphite Thermal Pads. Not sure in which order yet.
And I need an even testing ground to record all 3 results (now, with nano and with graphite).
CPU I will load with prime95. But GPU - not sure. Just AIDA is ok?

Just got a reply from support, giving me green light:
It is normal that CPU or GPU will reach 80~9X degrees on high loading status, and there may be some difference on different laptop.You can try to clean your thermal module/heat sink or change the thermal grease to reduce the laptop's temperature.
And the service center can help you with that.
https://www.msi.com/page/service-location-new

(I asked if repasting is ok with the warranty, and I'm taking it as a Yes)

 

AIDA's GPU stress:
79°C on auto fan (3800rpm).
69°C on advanced fan (5000rpm).

Looks totally fine to me. I'm not even sure I want to repaste it when I'll be doing that to CPU.

Or how do I really stress it?

 

Those are normal temperatures. GPU doesn't really need to be repasted because both the GPU and the GPU heatsink are flat, and much less prone to dryout than the CPU (CPU=convex, CPU heatsink=even MORE convex).

 

Oh... Just watched disassembly video and there is no way of getting to the CPU without unmounting all the GPU heat sinks... right?
I guess I'll have to repaste everything anyway, so I think I'll just throw graphite pads first..and if satisfied - won't go again.

 

Um,
On the GT73VR and GT75VR, all you have to do is unscrew the CPU fan (UNPLUG THE BATTERY FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) and then unscrew the 4 heatsink holes and off the CPU heatsink goes. Takes less than 2 minutes to do.

On the GT75 Titan, the problem is the CPU now has an "extra" extended heatpipe going to a new "half" radiator with the GPU VRM sharing the other half radiator (on the older VR's, the GPU had a full sized radiator). From the picture I saw, the CPU half radiator is **UNDER** the GPU half radiator (why....why......that's just stupid), so yes, you have to undo the GPU VRM plate! But the GPU VRM plate is *BLOCKED* by the GPU heatsink plate, so that means the GPU heatsink plate has to come off first, just to get to the GPU VRM plate.

So yes, you're right.
Dear god...I am never touching MSI again.
Why the HELL would they do this?

Why not have the CPU radiator on TOP side and the GPU VRM radiator on BOTTOM SIDE?
That's called LOGIC.
It is completely illogical to have the CPU radiator on the bottom......unless someone with a degree in LOGIC can explain to me this stupidity?
@Papusan ?

 

I guess they prioritized access to the video card, because if it was vice versa, you'd have to remove CPU's heatsink to remove video card from the slot, and in this laptop CPU is f****** soldered, but GPU is still (hopefully) upgradable.
So, if there was a logic to this order - it's that, I guess.
But yeah, whole this system seems very stupid or at least strange.

edit. well, at least it does its job, just needs some pasting occasionally

 

I can confirm that, when i do a repaste always need because cpu core difference, you need removed first the gpu stuff to get on the cpu :/

 

GPU is upgradable to what, though?
I'm 150% sure you are NOT going to be putting a GTX 2080 MXM in this thing. Period.

Yes 1070 users can "upgrade" to a 1080 if they also acquire the 1080 GPU heatsink and GPU VRM sink (the positions of the parts differ on 1070 and 1080, so the same heatsinks cannot be used), but how many people actually do this? Especially with 1080's costing about $1,000 USED on ebay...(the heatsinks are easier to acquire than a valid tested working GPU)...

And repasting the GPU simply requires only removing the GPU fan and GPU core heatsink, and that's it. On the GT75VR, the CPU repaste was just as fast and easy as the GPU repaste (ignoring the convex CPU heatsink, which often requires sanding down slightly + stretched 0.5mm thermal pads to stop core 0/2 high temps, but that's another story).

 

I'm optimist. Don't make me sad before its time.)

 

So, I put IC graphite pads on CPU and GPU, decided to put tiny amount of thermal paste just on corners to hold it in place, but maybe I shouldn't.

CPU runs cooler and difference between cores is less.

Before I had two hot cores, now I have two slightly hotter and one slightly colder. Average temps are 4°C less and CPU package 6-7°C less.

 

Completely screw up with GPU though, I think I damaged graphite pad or thermal paste got somewhere. Now it 3°C hotter, so I gonna redo it.

 

Nope. It's just for some reason GPU runs 4°C hotter with IC graphite pad, while CPU runs colder 6° with same pad and same fan RPMs...

Maybe there's not enough pressure on GPU heat sink?

 

You should not have repasted the GPU.
The GPU was just fine already because the contact was already good, so the MSI original paste worked fine.
The IC pad is going to be worse there. The GPU will improve if you use a good paste like Kryonaut, Phobya Nanogrease Extreme, or Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano.
The GPU heatsink is flat, so is the GPU, so the MSI original paste works about as good as MX-4. The IC pad is worse than MX-4.
Best thing to do now is buy a good thermal paste and re-do the GPU.

For GPU thermal pads, use Arctic 1mm. Works great, and the GPU thermal pads are on a different plate and do not affect GPU contact. (unlike the CPU).

On the CPU, the bga chip AND the heatsink are both convex, so the contact is worse. The thicker IC pad thus helps the convex surfaces keep contact better, thats why you had an improvement. Notice you still have core 0+2 being hotter, but now it wont degrade to 20C hotter than core 1 and 3. You can also try changing the CPU pads to 0.5mm pads and stretch them out a bit to compress them even more (You need arctic pads for that). The best way to compress 0.5mm pads is to apply them then do a combination of pressing with your fingers hard and stretching slowly, then when they stretch, then trim them.

 

That's what I said before I saw that there's no way of getting to the CPU without dismantling all the GPU heatsinks.

My OCD tells me to do all that (I have 0.5mm arctic already), but my laziness says: it's good enough.
So, I'll decide later..

 

Removed graphite pad from GPU, repasted with Nano, and temp dropped by 10°C on full load full fan. Became even lower than it was with stock paste (what a surprise.)
65°C in AIDA's 100% stress on max 5000rpm looks fine to me.

The pad itself looks squished, so it had enough pressure.
So my guess is:
Surface of the GPU's heat sink has not flat texture. It is not convex or something, but its surface seems to have parallel lines in one direction (like micro-trenches), I noticed that when I was cleaning it from old paste, easier to clean along these lines, but not the other way.
CPU's heat sink on the other hand didn't seem to have bumpy surface in any way, so maybe that's why I have better temps with graphite pad. (not sure, any other opinions?)

I think I will try nano paste for CPU, but I don't think that after gaining -6°C with a pad I can gain much more... we'll see.. but not today... too drunk and too tired.

 

Nothing to do with that.
You had better temps on the CPU because the contact was better. The CPU heatsink is convex. SO is the CPU silicon. And then you have VRM elevation on top of that. So you have very bad contact pressure on the top side and ok contact pressure on the bottom side. So the stock Lairdtech pad sucks. The Panasonic pad is thick enough to keep contact on all the cores without risk of pumpout or dryout (I believe the pad is 0.2mm thick, maybe 0.1mm I don't remember, but close to the same of the height of the BGA raised above the housing. So there was better contact with the PGS pad than the stock paste, thus better temps. Better than stock paste but not as good as a good fresh application of a good paste. But without sanding the heatsink flat you do run the risk of the good paste 'drying out' on the side of the cores facing the VRM's due to lower pressure, and trying to balance a convex heatsink+convex CPU is not easy without hardware modification. Using 0.5mm pads and stretching and compressing them to 0.2mm does improve things a lot.

Using Nano on the CPU would give you at least 5C lower temps than the Soft PGS. I know. I've tested Nanogrese extreme, Kryonaut, Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano and Liquid Metal and the pad.

On the GPU, contact pressure was already solid and even so the stock MSI paste (Lairdtech thermal stamp) is still better than that PGS pad.

Here is what a sanded heatsink and stretched 0.5mm thermal pads will get you with Liquid Metal.

 

Is overclocking the 7820 hk worth it. I just bought it and I want to improve the clock speed to about 4,5 GHz
Right now I’m at 4,2 GHz stable (done via dragon center) even if I run Aida stress test for about 20 minutes there’s no throttling
Since I don’t want to void the warranty and I haven’t applied any thermal paste I’d like to know if it is possible to achieve 4,5 GHz without any hardware modifications just simply with software or maybe with under volting

What clock speed are you guys running your 7820hk?

 

4.5 ghz on stock paste is doable but you're going to be hitting 90C on anything using all 8 threads even at 100% fan speed. Whether or not you can do it without a POSITIVE voltage offset is anyone's guess. You are not going to be able to undervolt and remain stable. Even with a repaste, if you do 4.5 ghz without an undervolt, your laptop is going to overvolt for you (and not display it properly either) by up to 150mv at full load and make you overheat, if you don't set IA AC DC loadline to "1" first, and then re-tune your voltages manually.

If you don't have a bad chip, Liquid Metal should get you to 4.7 ghz, anywhere between 1.25v-1.3v real voltage (this is assuming IA AC DC loadline is set to "1" rather than Auto. Good chips can do 4.8 ghz at 1.3v+. Excellent chips may do 4.9 ghz at 1.4v on LM but you're going to overheat FAST on anything using all 8 threads, and if you pass 92C, the zener diodes may power trip the laptop (Don't ask).

Due to the way the internal overvolting works on this laptop, you will not be able to exceed 4.5 ghz and stay under 100C, without setting IA AC / IA DC loadline to "1' in the Bios, otherwise getting something like 1.25v at *IDLE* will shoot up to 1.4v (!) at full load, and the VID will be showing something like 1.31v (instead of 1.4v) while you will be wondering why your temps are reading 100C....

 

Well, I'm not even dreaming of 68°C, but I have couple of questions:
1. What test in prime95 do you run? I run the first one (Small FFTs, max heat, stress FPU).
2. Do you think it's possible to achieve 0-1° differential between the cores with Nano paste and Arctic pads, without sanding the heat sink? (don't wanna go liquid metal and don't wanna mess with the HS).

 

Small FFT with AVX/FMA3 disabled in local.txt (read the undoc.txt file)
AVX enabled at 4.5 ghz only if ambient temps are cold (air conditioned) and I want to make fully sure there is good temp contact and its best not to run it for long past 80C. High stress temps can increase temp differentials if you exceed 80C for too long. Trying AVX small FFT with more than 1.20v real static voltage at >4.5 ghz (IA AC DC loadline=1 must be set) will just trip the Zener diodes and the laptop will shut off, because the Zeners will think that you would reach 100C with that type of current unavoidably (they are calibrated for keeping under 100C with good aftermarket thermal paste, not liquid metal).

The highest I can run prime95 small FFT with AVX disabled is 4.7 [email protected] static voltage (IA AC DC loadline=1 must be set in the bios). It's hard to keep the temps down. Small FFT AVX enabled will *instantly* trip the diodes and the laptop will shut off instantly.

4.8ghz @ 1.310v will pass Stockfish 8 thread chess engine easily in a cool room. Prime with AVX disabled will pass 94C and the zener diodes will trip.

4.9ghz @ 1.380v will PUBG and other games fine with temps reaching 80C, but a few runs of cinebench R15 and the temps reach 94C and the zeners trip again.

And no its impossible. You are using direct die contact without an integrated heat spreader to touch the entire die and spread the heat evenly around for you for a large heatsink base to pick up. With direct die contact, ANY difference in heatsink pressure, thermal paste amount, even by a few microns will (or whatever the measurement of pressure is..micro PSI's?) will cause core temp differences because there is no heat spreader to help you. That's why a convex or concave heatsink is very bad (very slightly concave would be better than very slightly convex because the CPU silicon housing itself is slightly convex. So you are never going to get the temps perfect.

With an unsanded heatsink and stretched out, compressed 0.5mm pads and a good THICK PASTE, you would be very lucky to get the temps within 3C max delta.

And the paste will always pump out/dry out prematurely on the hotter cores side (usually by the VRM's) just because of the reduced heatsink pressure+air gaps, etc. If you can get the core temps down to 2C with good thermal paste, this shouldn't happen, but that's VERY hard to do with a convex heatsink.

This was 4.7 ghz 1.276v in a very cold Starbucks.

 

...

Well, then I'll call 6°C difference good enough and leave IC graphite pad there, at least it won't dry out.
It's really annoying to dismantle ALL the heatsinks just to get to CPU.

 

I hear you that it is indeed a pain in the ass, but it's not THAT big of a deal all things considered. It's only 8 extra screws to remove. I gained a tremendous fan speed/temperature reduction by repasting my GPU, so at least in my case it was well worth it to repaste the GPU along with the CPU. Once you've done this more than once it's really easy to do. It sucks to waste thermal paste but after seeing some of the necessary steps to disassemble other laptops heatsinks this is really very simple in comparison.

 

How much temperature difference you have in cpu cores? Only between max values in hwinfo.

 

The difference between the hottest and coolest core was 6 degrees after a 5 minute Prime 95 run.

 

Nice, i have 15ºC more in Core 2 than the others after a week, my laptop is always on anyways...

 

15 degrees? Something is very wrong there.

 

Well, in first days its all ok, but then after a week i get that mesures...i only use games to get the values and the fans are always in Auto now.

 

I explained why this happens many many many times now. I explained EXACTLY why this happens.
And the problem can NOT be fixed without sanding. Period.