*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

So I somehow managed to break off a tiny piece of one of the pins on the DC power connector on the back of my laptop, and it's stuck inside the female connector end of the power supply. I've had no success in getting it out of there so far, so I'm considering purchasing another power supply. The laptop still charges with the issue at hand, but it barely is able to plug in enough to charge the laptop due to the broken piece stuck in the connector. This is something that I can only use on a temporary basis, as I'm worried about this eventually causing damage to the laptop. I suspect that there is plenty of the broken connector pin still intact that a new power supply will be able to plug in fully with no issues.

Mine is the 330 Watt power supply, and it appears there are plenty of lower cost options out there as other computers seem to utilize the same specification power supply. What I'd love to be able to do is replace the cord only on the power supply, but I've had no luck with sourcing a replacement up to this point.

 

How in the name of God did you break off that thing? Were you trying to pretend you were bruce lee or Arnold or Chuck Norris or something?
I believe two pins are ground and two are I don't know. Schematics have been posted of that connector before. but you're going to have to get it soldered on professionally by someone. You will have no end user equipment that can reattach that pin properly without causing problems.

 

I wish I knew exactly what happened so I could avoid doing it again. All I can come up with is I tried to insert the cable upside down and somehow partially broke off the pin. From what I can see 75% of the pin is still intact, so I am going to try using it as is for now. If down the road the rest breaks off then replacement of the connector will certainly be required.

 

last nvflash good works with gtx-m ? , but I get "certification 2.0 error"
Previously, the modified version of nvflash "it allows flash ?" .,but not long been updated ,,not work on mobile gpu
,.I'm thinking of modifying a new nvflash

spi flasher .,it's complicated for me

 

SPI flasher is hardware flasher, so no drama with software flasher.

 

Modifying NVflash is useless. You're better off making your own updated Pascal bios editor which would require a hardware flasher.
The problem is, Dreamonic took down his pages where he had information on the checksums used and how they are calculated. The only person now who has this information is (I think) @bennyg , @bloodhawk and @Coolane . If Dreamonic's pages were still up, you could have used his data as a reference.

 

spent some money for an 970 evo 1tb... i think i need an second one to check the raid 0 speeds...
one of two 960 sold and maybe i found someone who will buy my crucial as well .
my friends told me that i'm crazy don't know why

 

so i do not know exactly what it is, but while testing aida64 gpu normally runs 2000 core x 4700 mem all times, set OC
but when cynemabench, it works only the first test, then probably activates the "power limit" and taps to lock to "default" freq 1450 x 3800mem , is it also caused by powerlimit?
on my playing the OC still works normally, for now

thanks for advice

 

Hi everyone.

I´m about to buy this laptop. The only concern that I have is the trackpad and the rubber coating. I’ll use this laptop for work and gaming and for me it is important a good trackpad. Does this surface seem to be long-lasting? Does this rubber coating interfere with a fluid use of the trackpad?

Thank you very much for your answers.

 

all I can tell you is that this is one of the best trackpads I've used on a laptop. Very smooth and precise. I've never had a trackpad so precise in fact. When I say precise, I mean depends on how much pressure you apply the speed of the mouse pointer moves accordingly and it works every single time thanks to its matte surface, it does not attract fingerprints or grease.

I suggest you get it from HIDevolution and also get their legendary Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut + Fujipoly Thermal Pads + Bottom panel mod for the best cooling:



Check the different variants / configurations they have of this laptop here: http://www.hidevolution.com/catalogsearch/result/?a=all&q=gt75

then email [email protected] before you order to get your NBR Discount and if you do end up becoming an HIDevolution Gaming Team Member, then feel free to tag me if you want the Phoenix Tweaks which comprise of:

1- Uninstallation of all the Windows Store Garbage Apps like 3D Paint, Print 3D, Alarms & Clock, Feedback Hub, Maps, Groove Music, News, Weather, etc.
2- Removing all Windows 10 Privacy Invasion stuff like Telemetry, sending your keystrokes to Microsoft, automatically installing suggested apps in the background, allowing Microsoft to conduct experiments on your laptop, disabling automatic driver updates through Windows updates, disabling Windows 10 ads, disabling Cortana, Cloud Search etc.
3- Disabling Microsoft Edge from starting up automatically in the background upon reboot.
4- Adjusting a lot of options in PC Settings like disabling Windows Tablet Mode (you have a laptop not a tablet), disabling suggestions appearing in the start menu, disabling automatically connecting to Paid WiFi Hotspots, disabling Game DVR which reduced performance in games, and a lot more.
5- Replacing Cortana with a much better search tool that finds results instantly called Everything which finds any file you want as soon as you start typing even a few letters of its name and it doesn't even rely on the Windows Indexing Service to do this!
6- Restoring the classic Windows Photo Viewer
7- Restoring the Classic Windows 7 Start Menu
8- Removal of the new and useless 3D Objects Folder that appears when you open "Computer"
9- Completely disabling Windows Defender from its roots (including all scheduled tasks and startup files) for those who want to install their own AV. ESET NOD32 Antivirus is highly recommended if you want the utmost security with the least system performance impact.
10- Updating all drivers to the latest versions in case they weren't up to date.
11- Disabling the performance hit that is caused by the Meltdown and Spectre patches recently released by Microsoft (optional, only if you don't mind having this security vulnerability and would rather have your CPU's full performance back)
12- Overprovisioning your SSD anywhere between 10-20% depending on how much space you can spare to ensure optimal and consistent performance at all times.
13- Blocking the Google Chrome Software Reporter Tool (which causes a high system load when it is scanning files)
14- Preventing Microsoft Edge from running on startup in the background
15- Creating a system restoration image using Macrium Reflect

 

Mmm... repasted today and results are underwhelming. Maybe I should really buy an anti-static bracelet and have a go at it myself >.>
At least the new fan I got from msi is working as it should: no more grinding noise. :x

 

Did the person doing the re paste hold the heat sink down with pressure, then tighten the screws in place?

 

The bf probably did not.

 

Hummm, so I see....

How much of an under volt are you running on the cpu?

 

The loadline setting from falkentyne, that's it.

 

You might have a go at -125 offset for cpu and see how that fairs. This should boot windows fine. If not, just raise it to -100 and try again.

That should help with Temps.

 

Thank you very much for your answer. It was very helpful for me.

 

Cores 0 and 2 (and 4) are the ones at the top closest to the CPU VRM side. The VRM attachment is part of the CPU block so that side causes reduced pressure on the top side of the CPU. The
only essential fix is reducing the thermal pad thickness by half, and even stretching them out after using thinner pads (example, switching from 1mm to 0.5mm). The VRM's don't really need great cooling on the CPU--they don't pull enough current. Just basic contact is okay. So going from 1mm to 0.5mm pads works well. But the GS65 is not a GT75 or GT75VR; I don't know what size pads are stock on the GS65 at all. The best fix is sanding the heatsink flat AND reducing thermal pad thickness, but sanding isn't something most people want to do or bother with. But if you have a CONVEX heatsink, then reducing the thermal pad thickness is essential. Even a flat heatsink won't help much if the VRM attachment is preventing half of the heatsink from making proper pressure on the CPU.

Innovations Cooling pressure paper test would tell you where the bad contact is.

 

The only change was a re paste...

 

Oh well.

 

Whelp, I'll hop in on the paste and OC discussion later, once things are stable. Didn't we have a list of Win7 drivers somewhere? GT75 Titan 7RF variant for me. Win10 is horrible and even my fresh install with the 2016 LTSB variant have it crashing the second I load anything that uses the graphics card (freeze on black screen, no control only removing power will do anything).

Also, if I modify the BIOS, can I disable certain drives? The key combo to enable the advanced BIOS still don't have that option. Frankly, I only want to go to so much trouble until I can verify that the graphics card is even good.

Already tried a safemode DDU cleanup and new NVIDIA drivers. I started with the stock drivers for everything, never installed the dragon center, and don't have anything modified with XTU when trying to launch stuff (specifically steam games like Total War and Carmageddon).

Thanks.

 

You can disable certain "SATA" ports. I do not know how to disable NVME ports or if the Bios considers NVME to be SATA as well.

 

Port 0 = NVMe slot 1
Port 1 = NVMe Slot 2
Port 2 = NVMe Slot 3
Port 3 = 2.5" SSD/HDD

I usually disable Port 3 when installing Windows since the NVMe are all in one RAID 0 array

PS: Port 3 will display what HDD/SSD is in it so it's easy to spot. NVMe SSDs do not show in the PCH-IO Configuration so one would now know what is what or think that they're empty but they're not. That's how it is even on the Clevo/Prema BIOS. NVMe slots always display EMPTY

 

@Phoenix @Donald@HIDevolution

I'm planning to buy a titan this month, so i want to ask if i order the laptop to HIDevolution will they deliver it here in Dubai.

English is not my first language so sorry in advance.

 

Whelp, no option to disable using the key combos, guess I'll have to go dig up the instructional thread on hacking the BIOS. Thanks for the heads up.

FWIW, Windows 7 is happy and everything important works. No Thunderbolt yet as I haven't tried very hard, and only a few drivers even needed their INF files updated.

 

Yes off-course. I've ordered 3 laptops from them before. Also, if you upgrade to the Global Warranty, then if anything goes bad with your laptop, then you don't need to pay for shipping they will cover the shipping charges back and forth. Although if you go with MSI or Alienware you can still get it serviced and repaired under warranty here through the local MSI (Jumbo is the authorized service center for MSI) or Dell for Alienware

 

Thanks @Phoenix

How about the tax? is it included or excluded? i'm planning to buy the MSI GT75 8RG

 

email [email protected] with your questions

 

Hi All,

First of all,m sorry for hijacking the topic with GT63 stuff and going off-topic.
One "funny" thing I've noticed after GT63 BIOS update to E16L4IMS.107: it is not possible anymore to change the TDC Current Limit to 0.

This is what's happening:
You set it on BIOS, save, and when you go back to BIOS without allowing windows to start, this value is back again to the "old" value (640).

Also the TDP value is not reporting half the value anymore, leading to Power Limit Throttling again.
Did anyone notice this on GT75 with 8750h?

Thanks

 

CMOS reset the Bios.
Seen this happen on the old GT73VR with Dragon Center messing with VR Current Limit.

Power off the laptop.
Press the power button and keep it pressed.
the light will turn on then turn off after 5 seconds.
keep it pressed for 60 seconds, then wait 3 minutes.

 

I think that the last Bios on GT75 is from 04/2018 and when tested in that time i was able to do TDC CL 0.

 

ok many thanks, I will try that.

 

You also have 2 other ways to restore defaults values on Bios, one is using the bios menus and you will have a option to restore the values...the other is using the CMOS reset button behind the laptop, dont have sure but i think that GT63 also have this feature.

 

Unfortunately, when Dragon Center messes with stuff, using "restore defaults" doesn't always work.
Sometimes the value in Bios gets corrupted.

This exact thing happened on the GT73VR Where Dragon Center messed with the ICCMAX value, and if you used "bios load defaults", it still throttled even though you tried setting a new value. The new value simply didn't work at all.

The user had to actually do a full CMOS CLEAR to fix it. It's buried way in the GT73VR thread, probably a few hundred posts back. THEN the new value worked.

 

Tried that, and the BIOS settings were set back to the defaults, and still has the value of 640 for TDC Current Limit, even not allowing windows to boot. So no Dragon Center interference here.
Seems that this value is now forced... strange...

Also after bios update, even with UV (without TDP tweak on bios) I am getting lower scores on benchmarks and also lower CPU frequency under full load (3.4Ghz vs 3.1Ghz).
It seems that this BIOS didn't fix only the Audio problem. Something more happened, apparently...

 

As you can see, in the newest bios version .107, the default value for TDC is still "0".
There is no 640 anywhere.

640 was inserted by Dragon Center.
so if it's still being set at 640, you MUST clear the CMOS. Do the 60 second power button press as I already said.

 

But that's what I told you on my previous port.
I did that already.

 

Tomorrow I will try again.
I think it is enough for today. Thanks for your patience @Falkentyne

I will share tomorrow what I was able to achieve.

Cheers and thanks again

 

Even MSI dont launched a update on Bios, i tested the TDC CL to 0 and after a restart, the value still the same...at 0.

This on my GT75*

 

OK many thanks Pedro,

I may try again today.
Thank you Pedro and @Falkentyne for all the help.

I dind't uninstall yet Dragon Center and XTU, but I will do it, perform again CMOS clearing and see if it remains the same.
I will check the resulkts with TS.

Cheers all and thanks again

 

Then you discover the problem, you cant have the dragon center installed or the value will be always 640.

 

Indeed, but the point is:
I did the CMOS reset, and I didn't allow the laptop to boot Went straight to the bios, reconfigured everything, then restarted (didn't allow to boot again), unlocked the BIOS and hanged all the settings including the current limit to 0.
Went back again to the BIOS (again not allowing windows boot), and same: 640. This is why I raised the alert.

Bet let me do the things right and I will share the result.

Cheers

 

Oh wait, do you mean that even with dragon center installed you was able to put the TDC Cl to 0 with the other Bios?

 

I was, and it was only reverted to 640 after windows boot (because Dragon Center was Installed). DC was the cause for this revert. I tried a live Linux boot and the value was preserved (with 0 as long as my windows didn't boot up first).
Now this is not happening. It is always reverting to 640 even with CMOS clearing, no matter what.

But let me first try again following every single recommendation shared here.

 

As long as we're at it, does anybody have a way they keep this flighty power cord plugged in? It's bad enough that adjusting my sitting position or sitting back will unplug it, and and all 30 inches between cord and brick doesn't give me much room to move either.

 

Is the plug loose in the socket itself?

Check the PSU end for any sort of deformation. I know that on my 230W PSU (which I use when I'm traveling around on bike/bus), that Delta has a tighter fit than the 330W Delta PSU. So there are clearly tolerance issues. It may be on the PSU end, but I don't know what sort of sorcery you can do to fix that. You could consider a RMA for the PSU itself.

Does the PSU come out just by touching it ?

 

My power plug is also pretty loose, I'd say it is quite common - in fact another person with gt75 asked about it also on the msi forums few months ago. Luckily I don't move my laptop around too much so I only have to make sure it's still tight after the cat walks behind the laptop (they aren't allowed to, but you know - mischief for life). And yep, don't think there is much you can really do...

 

Yep, exceptionally loose in the socket side of the computer from the UPS itself. Just touching the cord, lifting the computer to shift position, even just the weight of the cord from the PSU sitting on the floor 18 inches below, cause it to slip out frequently.

I'll look at an RMA on the PSU. It helps that it may not be solely a design flaw if others don't have the same issue, but your experience is what I was afraid of. Really, my biggest concern is battery life, cycling it multiple times a day unnecessarily, and component integrity on the board, from brownout conditions when the power is slipping and marginally available, but it's a bit inconvenient too.

 

double post

 

My 330W PSU is snug and doesn't come out, but it's not as tight as the 230W PSU plug, but it is snug. The 230W plug actually takes a little bit of work to get it in and is very firm. The 330W one goes in easily but is secure and won't move, but the 230W one is more secure.

So this points to variances on the PSU Plug end, rather than inside the laptop 4 male pin connector. I'm not sure if its the holes or if its the outside border that creates the grip.