***The Official MSI GT80 Titan Owner's Lounge***

Quick help first time poster super newbie

I have a Titan 80 2QE but it wont turn on anymore, just noticed that my batterie indicator light in front flashes amber before it used to after a certain period of time turn on, it wont anymore i can get to the bios settings but thats it any sugestions its still underwarranty last time i checked. anyone gone thru the warranty process? how painful is it?

Thanks in advance....

 

Check to see if MSI has a support center in your area:

https://www.msi.com/support/notebook/service-location

Click the tab for the region, then the country, and see if there are local service centers you can take the laptop into to evaluate and fix as needed.

You can also register your laptop and file a support ticket for help via email and phone support. Create a login and go from there:

https://register.msi.com/home/login

It sounds like your battery / charger / charging circuit isn't working correctly.

If you aren't able to turn it on while plugged in to AC power, check all the connections - sometimes the connector will become loose - pull it out and re-seat them all.

While plugged in you should be able to power on the laptop even if the battery isn't charging - but the blinking amber light is a hint that power isn't getting into the laptop - the battery still has enough power to show the warning light.

Good luck

 

So you can get into BIOS is that right? Then there is power after all. Turn off your laptop, remove power adapter, wait 10 seconds. There is a hole under your laptop, push a paper pin there you will hear a button go, hold it 10 more seconds. let it go, put the power back, go into BIOS and reset to default values. And while in there also check if all RAM and disks are detected, I had a dead SSD once which was hanging the system like that. You could also try removing them and if booting from USB works (like windows setup usb).

 

Hi guys! I bought this wonderful MSI laptop with 6820HK, 32GB ddr4 and 512GB (raid 0) ssd nvme and a GTX 980M SLI.



This is my first MSI (I had a Clevo P170EM and P370SM before) and I would to know the procedure for flashing the gpus' bios and which bios I have to download.



I flashed a GTX 675MX some years ago, so I need a refresh of my memory

 

Hello again

Svet is the guy to contact for unlocked vBIOS's, and if you search in this thread you should find some posts about others using them.

Maybe someone with recent experience can respond to you about this.

To contact Svet, register for the MSI Forums and PM or post a request to Svet directly. He accepts a donation for his work.

Svet's Fermi/Kepler VBIOS/EC Tuner - [ver: 3.10e]
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=148273.0

 

RE: Trade In Program

2) If you purchased your laptop with upgraded components from one of the Build-to-Order resellers below, let us know and we will be working with those resellers to offer you the trade-in program, and we will have you deal with them directly.
a) We will be contacting you once we have gathered everyone’s information and iron out the specifics with those resellers.

Has anybody seen any traction on this? I bought from EXcaliberPC so from what I can tell, i'll be dealing with them for the exchange.
Was curious if anybody has heard anything.

@Kevin@GenTechPC do you know anything about this yet?
Thx

 

You've sent in the form with your information to register for the upgrade then? MSI USA?

The way I have heard it is that there are a couple of possibilities.

If the shop you bought from is working closely with MSI then what they said can happen, and you've contacted them here on NBR which can be good if they are around, but I would call them directly and have a consultation conversation about how to work the trade-in.

I have also heard of people working directly with MSI USA Trade-in Team to get the offer - pick the GT model you want - any one even not on the list that is a -xxx variant of the GT models listed - then remind MSI that you have a BTO with memory and storage you want to carry over to the new laptop.

Then MSI should give you an updated offer with the Bare Configuration which is cheaper - no memory or storage.

The only thing is, you don't have the original memory / storage to plop back into the one you are returning to MSI for trade-in.

That's where the 3rd option comes in.

MSI configures the new laptop to match your current RAM / storage, or somewhere in between - like MSI matches the RAM and you transfer the storage over from your current machine into the new one - maybe keeping the original HDD in the old machine (who wants that anyway ).

This is something you need to check with your source shop first, then from there you are armed with the info you need to approach MSI for what you need from them.

We have a group set up to help people with the trade-in as well:

GT72/GT72S and GT80/GT80S Owners GPU Upgrade Discussion
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-gpu-upgrade-discussion.795236/#post-10418143

But we all hang out here too, so if you feel more comfortable discussing here, then that's good too

 

I was on the phone with XoticPC tech about a month ago and asked him about the trade in (to upgrade to 1080) He said that MSI ended the trade-in program in October. I didn't investigate any further.

 

Maybe they have been updated

But, you're right, it's a strange mix of knowing and not knowing, ya know

Working with MSI USA Trade-in Team as the primary is best.

 

Thanks hmscott, good info. I will follow up with the MSI USA Trade-in team asap. Thanks for the link to the upgrade discussion as well. I'll be sure to post how it goes.
Cheers

 

I did ask about this a couple months ago, and initially it sounded like MSI would be working with resellers, but I believe they ended up just working with customers directly on the upgrade program. I would check with MSI directly.

*Edit* They may still work with resellers directly, I just haven't heard myself as of yet (at least anything that relates to my position).

Originally the plan was to just do the trade in, but in this post they did mention it was extended to the end of the year. So might want to check in with MSI soon about that.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...al-msi-news-events-and-all-things-msi.795144/

 

All customers will have to deal with MSI directly on this trade-in program since this is about taking in your old PC back to verify conditions, etc, therefore none of the resellers were asked to participate.
If the plan to upgrade GPU was available then resellers would have been the point of contact instead of MSI.

 

Thanks Pat and Kevin for the additional info....
I reached out to MSI snallygaster in hopes he could see anything about the status of my upgrade request.

<edit>
Actually turns out I had already reached out to him but no reply

</edit>

 

Good evening!
I have a Broadwell 5950HQ based GT80.
I'm thinking of removing 980M SLi and leaving it on iGPU.
Do you guys know if that is technically possible? Will the iGPU activate when the cards are removed from the MXM slots?
Thank you!

 

Interesting idea, but why not just boot into iGPU mode using the GPU button? The 980m's are powered down and not even seen in iGPU mode. No need to go through all that hardware hacking.

Please don't sell the 980m's and cooling hardware - at the very least keep it all in a nice box for later use.

When you come to your senses, you might find that you really do miss all that GPU horse power, and wish you still had it!!

Eventually, when your relatives pick up your belongings - after you are nicely set up in that Sanitarium for iGPU users - they can pay someone to piece back together your once grand GT80 to it's previous glory, and give it to some deserving nephew or niece.

If you do yank it all apart, please let us know if it still works

 

Here's the thing, the last time I played on this machine was a very long time ago.
I'm planning on harvesting and selling the 980Ms.
I will definitely need that money when the time comes for sanatorium
I will do the surgery sometime soon and will write back, but I have a feeling that the machine would not show anything even after the hardware switch for iGPU.
I may just toss in some cheapo mxm modules just to output the image.

 

Well, I guess I would at least set it in iGPU mode and boot once into iGPU mode before removing the hardware. That way it's already set to recognize the iGPU.

Then I would uninstall SCM, so you can't accidentally click the GPU button again and boot into dGPU mode.

It should still display fine through the MUX switched iGPU to the internal display, not sure which if any of the external video connectors will still work, I think none, but try them all - you might get lucky.

Be aware that the cooling is tied together between GPU / CPU with cooling interconnected to the point that removing the MXM modules will weaken the mechanical connections, and could cause problems when moving it around - over time snapping a heat pipe. You may need to "wire" and "brace" it up to hold it together.

Rather than ruin a perfectly good laptop, why not sell it and buy something else?

The newer iGPU's are faster, making up for the EDRAM iGPU improvement brought by the 5950HQ.

And, you could do the MSI Trade-in (if you are in USA, Canada, UK, etc) and get a new laptop that you could then sell off for more to a larger more motivated market - with current Pascal GPU's and Kabylake. Potentially improving your overall sales return.

It kind of feels like sacrilege to hack up and ruin such a beautiful laptop

 

Yet the 5950HQ is the killer of notebook CPUs.
Newer iGPUs are still iGPUs. Nobody would expect them to be changed drastically from generation to another.
Screw the trade-in, they would rip me off again. I don't want any Kabylakes or Pascals. I'm not into gaming anymore, hence the idea of parting and gaining from unnecessary options.
It is a very beautiful laptop indeed, that's why I'm still with it, but I promise, I will not ruin it. Will just make it a little lighter and more battery friendly - if possible.

 

Well, it will still look the same from the outside, and you have that great 18.4" display, mechanical keyboard, awesome overall goodness to enjoy.

Just don't take it out on the GTAV freeway and try to "open it up"

It would be interesting to see if the battery life improves.

BTW, I would test the market and see what the demand is like for 980m's before tearing into it all.

There might not be any demand...at least not at the price you hope they still receive. Selling both might be even harder.

After you've only been able to sell one 980m, you'd need to then find out if the GT80 will run with a single 980m

That long SLI cable might be worth something too, too bad you can't sell the cooling components, they're needed for the CPU cooling.

 

If the price is right - there's always demand. These will work in AWs, Clevos and other MSIs.
The battery life will definitely improve.

 

Yes, but that's what I was suggesting, the prices have dropped a lot, so in order to stimulate demand to sell both you'd need to drop it further, perhaps.

And, with Pascal out, people are hacking in 1060's which are within power and thermal range of the 980m, and will well outperform a 980m, for about the same board cost, until you drop the 980m price again.

And, now with the 1050ti card coming out, there will be more competition - price will win out over performance for many, still giving them a big performance boost, dropping the price floor on the 980m's again just to compete with the alternatives.

And, not too sure about the battery improvement, the 980m's on iGPU are supposed to be "powered off", still plugged in so to speak but not drawing much if any power.

Still, it will be fun to hear back and find out what's what after removing the 980m's.

Good luck

 

I understand.
The more I would wait - the worse would be for me.
I am aiming at $450 ea

 

Well, as long as there is a buyer, that sounds like a great buy-it-now price

On Ebay recently some 980m's have sold in the $500 range, some less, like $389, with 1 odd sale of a 980m and a 970m for $150 the pair.

BTW, have you lived under iGPU only for a while to test it out? Make sure you can do everything you want to do.

I tried to live under iGPU for a few days, benchmarking the iGPU and playing with OC'ing the CPU / iGPU on the 5950HQ, and couldn't do my multiple tasks without lagging and "freezing" as things updated on the screen.

It was so annoying I booted back into dGPU mode without trying VM's under VPC and VMware - if you use those test them out too to make sure you can get good graphical performance.

Also you can't OC the CPU and the iGPU, in fact I had to run stock on CPU to get decent iGPU performance. There is only a 47w power budget *shared* between the iGPU and CPU.

You don't see that iGPU power hit against the CPU when Mux'd into dGPU only mode.

I'd try to live for at least a week under the iGPU only mode, making sure to load up everything you do so you know it will work ok for you.

 

Anyone knows how to replace the Wifi Card? Is it in the hinge area? Any directions on how to replace it? Many thanks.

 

Reporting back. Surgery completed successfully.
The heatsinks for the GPUs are still attached. I used original riser/mounts to have the heatsinks mounted properly. Nothing is wobbly. Sturdy as before.
The laptop works off UMA graphics now and even if you press the "GPU" switch it will revert to iGPU on a reboot, because the M/B is not sensing the cards.
It loos like I was a pioneer in stripping the GT80 this way, but someday somebody may find this post useful.

 

Congratulations on a successful neutering of your GT80

Glad to hear the internals are still self supporting without the MXM cards.

Are the CPU temps better without the GPU heat load?

How about the battery life, better now too?

Howz the outputs? It's working with the internal display, but how about the external connectors? Which ones output the iGPU output?

 

I have the 4th Gen Intel version, SLI-009, with 2 120GB SSD's in RAID1 mirroring mode. I was curious if I could add 2 more SSDs to the 3rd and 4th SSD slots, and set them up as a 2nd mirrored drive, or if the RAID setup will only function as 1 total hard drive, whereas I would set them up as RAID 1+0 if supported.

In other words, can the 4 SSD slots be split into 2 separate storage drives, both mirroring. SSD Slots 1+2 = drive C: in Windows and Slots 3+4 = drive e: in Windows.

 

anyone know where i can get an lcd screen for my
MSI GT80 TITAN LAPTOP LCD SCREENS
msi has quoted $480

 

Yup, when you have physically installed the 2 new M.2 SSD's, boot into the BIOS and set up the new 2x RAID volume using the 2 new devices. Works the same as the 1st Volume.

Then when in Windows you can set up the volume as you like.

If you had set up the 1st RAID volume as a Stripe, you could have also used the Intel RAID software to add each new SSD as raw devices in the RAID0, takes about 20 minutes per 500GB SSD.

It's nice having 4x M.2 SSD's

 

Has anyone been able to upgrade the SLI-001 to a newer chipset or GPU?

 

I was thinking of a smaller notebook like the MSI GT62VR Dominator Pro-239 with gtx 1070 or 1060, as I live in Brazil the chances of changing the gtx980m SLI, are very difficult, I will lose much in performance or the gtx1070 / 1060 will supply my Needs?

 

Hello everyone...It's been quite a while since I've been here. Wow. 884 pages!! Right on...

A couple of questions, if you GT80 experts don't mind. I have a GT80 255-SLI (2x 965m video cards). Here's the odd part. It currently has a single 256gb default ssd (I believe a Kingston model from what I've read?) on a M.2 format and I installed a 250gb Samsung ssd that I already had in the spot where a 2.5" hdd/ssd can fit. I am almost out of space and I'm sick of having to move stuff off this computer to my file server at home, so I want to add more storage.

1) I should have 3 empty M.2 slots right? Because this system could have been configured with 4 ssd's, if I remember correctly. Before you ask, the reason it only came with one 256gb SSD is because I had my brother order this system while I was in the hospital and I told him to get rid of the HDD, meaning the 1TB that I had no use for and I was putting that 2.5 ssd in its place anyway, and he took that to mean remove one of the 256gb ssd's. I wanted to kill him when it arrived.

2) The drive I'm thinking about getting is the Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB M.2 SATA SSD model MZ-N5E500BW. Here is a link to the exact ssd in question: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIW1XG/ref=pe_172030_230551780_em_1p_2_ti

3) If that drive is good to go in my GT80 I would like to make that my system ssd since it will be the fastest ssd in my laptop. Can I just use the Samsung migration software and it will become my new system drive? It doesn't need to be in a certain M.2 slot, does it?

4) I'm very happy with the price of the Samsung EVO 850 I linked to, at this point, do you think there would be any point (performance gain) to purchase 2 of those HDDs in 250GB size, instead of a single 500GB, and run them in RAID 0? That would still leave me with 1 final open M.2 slot should I ever need to expand once again.

This laptop is used mainly for Assetto Corsa (HDMI out to 55" TV), Adobe Products (Photoshop/Premiere/After Effects), 3dsmax and web browsing.

One final question:
5) Is the video upgradeable in a GT80? If so, is the best card it could accept a 980m or can it accept the newer nvidia series of video cards like the 1080?

I'm sorry for the silly questions. You guys have always been awesome to my questions in the past, I couldn't think of a better place I'd rather ask these questions I hope everyone is doing well!
Thanks...
ALB123

Oh, obviously if you need any other info before you're able to give an answer to any of these questions, please ask.

 

I tried searching your model number and although I couldn't find the official MSI page with specs, other sites showed it as M.2 SATA SSD like you said. I would still open the top cover (takes 5 minutes)and verify there indeed are 2 notches in M.2 SSDs. While you're there you can also make sure that there are 3 available M.2 slots. If you can take a photo, I can also have a look at it if you want.

RAID0 ends up nice numbers in benchmarks but frankly speaking you wont feel it very much in daily use, it's not night and day difference like going from HDD to SSD. And if either of your drives go bad, you are basically down, it doesn't have any redundancy.

I recently got a 1tb Crucial M.2 SATA SSD and it has a great performance for the money. If I were you, I would either get a single 500gb or a single 1tb.

You can use the migration software(there are several other good ones too, I use Easeus Todo Backup). If you have the time, most users would advise you to do a clean install. But many end up using migration, since it sometimes takes a full day considering all the drivers and 3rd party progs. There is no specific slot for the OS drive, however when you migrate, remove the old SSD and let the system boot with new SSD otherwise it would get confused. Then you should format the old SSD and put it back. (USB enclosure is recommended) if you dont have one, you can probably get by putting it after completing first boot. if not, you can do it with Windows installation dvd.

Video is certainly not upgradeable to 10xx series. The limit should be 980m cards (which are really hard to get by and expensive) but your power adapter might not be powerful enough for those. 330w adapters are needed for those cards as far as I know.

 

@hedehede81 Thank you for answering my questions...I really appreciate it. Yeah, I didn't really think RAID would be worth it...and I had a feeling any video changes would be rather expensive too.

I know doing clean installations are the way to go, but in my case I don't have a Windows installation disc. I've heard you can download it at no cost from Microsoft, but if I do that, won't I be stuck on Windows 8 since that's the OS my computer shipped with? Isnt there some authentication code in the BIOS or somewhere that lets Windows know its okay to activate the OS as legitimate? Once I put Windows 8.1 on I'll have to pay for Windows 10 since the free upgrade thing is over. :-(

 

The product key works on both Windows 8 and 8.1 so you should be fine, but not Windows 10.
Also, in order to restore performance on a SSD, you can do Secure Erase, see below.
http://www.hardcoreware.net/secure-erase-ssd-in-windows/

 

@hedehede81 I think I see the Crucial SSD you were talking about. The price of the 1TB looks very attractive. Are there any specific reasons you chose the Crucial SSD instead of another brand? Was it just a price decision? Or anything else?

Thank you..

 

It was mainly price but I used Crucial before for RAMs and SSDs and it was all good for me. Exact model I got was Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 (2280) Internal Solid State Drive (CT1050MX300SSD4). And for your other question, yeah, you missed the free upgrade window sadly. Well, technically, Microsoft still allows you upgrade I think, if you use assistive technologies. If you ever come by a deal for windows 10 upgrade key you can buy and in the meantime Windows 8.1 is not a bad OS at all.

 

Yes...I've heard about being to upgrade via that Ease of Access section, or something like that...Maybe I'll check out if that's still a working possibility. I know 8.1 isn't too bad...I've just gotten used to Win10, but that's life. If I gotta pay for a code, I gotta pay for a code. Maybe a fresh installation will finally stop my computer from crashing every single time it goes into Sleep Mode.

 

Hey guys,

I have been trying to enable the numpad at boot for a long time now. I have spent countless hours on this, read the Synaptics API, reverse engineered the drivers, recorded and replayed driver packets and many other things. Finally, I have succeeded. Now we can turn on and off the numpad with a program. Although I tested it on my computer, if anything happens it is your responsibility. I also used a library of Jessenic from XDA so thanks goes to him as well. Here is how to use it:

1-Extract the archive in a folder of your choice.
2-synapticsnumpad.exe is for instant toggling on and off your numpad.
3-numpad toggle.exe is for putting a shortcut into your startup folder (Start Menu), this program waits 15 seconds and then toggles the numpad by also hiding its window.
4-Create a shortcut to this numpad toggle.exe and put it in your startup folder (C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\StartUp) for me.
5-Well that's it, your numpad will be enabled automatically every boot.

Regards.

 

Speaking of the number pad -- A long while ago I posted here and again on the MSI forums about my GT80 not being able to make alt codes with the keyboard or the synaptics mousepad. I got a reply that mentioned to " "Filter keys" in Windows and setup no repeat" ... and I should be able to create alt codes again ( great for speaking to my friends in other countries or gaming IDs with codes in it )

So,,, How do I do this "filter keys with no repeat"? I cannot locate the info. Win 10.
Thanks in advance!

 

That is right, you can generate alt codes with your numpad by disabling the keyboard repeat. However, then since keys no longer repeat when pressed, wasd keys would not work as direction keys. however, you could enable intended keys to repeat from steelseries engine again I think. (select the keys you would like to repeat like arrow keys, backspace, wasd etc, from steelseries engine and configure them to repeat the key while pressed)

Anyway, you disable the repeat from, Control Panel/ease of access/ease of access center/make keyboard easier to use/turn on filter keys (check) /setup filter keys(click) /turn on repeat keys and slow keys (check) /setup repeat keys and slow keys (click) / ignore all repeated keystrokes (check)

you could also choose it to slow down at the last step.

 

I have written a quick program for you since my previous reply was a bit involved in steps and disabling the whole keyboard repeat didn't make sense to me. The archive includes numpad_altcodes.exe and you should put this in your Startup folder so it starts everytime computer boots. When this program is running, your Synaptics numpad will generate Alt-codes nicely.

Also, somewhere in the forums I saw someone asked if this numpad is able to repeat the keys so it could be used in games for direction etc. The answer is yes, but it also requires another program to be written.

 

Hey guys,

It took a lot more time than I anticipated but I coded another application which enables the Synaptic numpad keys to repeat. When you hold 7 key it now continues outputting number 7 like a mechanical numpad would do. So that we can use these keys as direction keys in games. I have tested the repeat function under text editors, so let me know if you test it under games like GTA V etc. Extract the archive in a folder of your choice and run numpad_repeat.exe when you would like to have the keys to repeat or just put a shortcut to this exe file under your Startup folder.

Regards.

 

So.. i left my GT80 running in another room, just idle on desktop for a few hours... and i come back to it on its BIOS screen.. I tell it to restart and it just reloads the BIOS immediately. The only thing that changed anything was setting it to legacy boot in which i was greeted to this before i can press anything:

Any ideas on a possible fix? or am I ****ed?..

 

I assume you're not under warranty? If you are, you should of course send it in. If not, here is what I would do:
1- First check if the disks are recognized under BIOS. I had a brand new Nvme SSD die on me and symptoms were very similar to this. If they are OK, you might also want to reset all BIOS settings to default here. If that also doesn't work, continue.
2- Turn off your laptop. unplug the AC adapter. Hold down the power button for 12 seconds or more. This will cause EC to be reset. You can understand if it worked by pressing power. It shouldn't power up before connecting AC adapter. Connect AC adapter back on and power it up. You might get lucky and it might just work after this step. If not, continue.
3- Open up the back cover of the laptop. You will see the battery cable. With some gentle hands you can remove the battery cable from the motherboard. Press power button for 10 seconds to discharge all caps. Connect the battery back and connect AC back up and power it up. If not works, continue.
4- Last thing I would try is, remove the CMOS battery, connect it back up and reset all settings to default in BIOS.

Regards.

 

Hey everyone, I just have a quick question. A few days ago, the screen on my GT80 started acting weird. On seemingly every other restart, the screen would be very pixelated. Restarting the computer would fix the issue, but it would reappear the next time I restarted the computer. This started happening after I brought the computer home with me from vacation. Could it have been damaged in transit or something? The computer doesn't have any marks or scratches, and the display doesn't have any marks on it either. Also, I tried to switch to the integrated graphics and reproduce the problem. However, I didn't get the issue. As a result, I think the issue is relegated to my 980M GPUs. A picture of my problem is posted below.

 

Try reseating the graphics cards to their MXM connectors. Hopefully they became loose while travelling. Also check if the SLI bridge cable is loose. If not, things will be harder.

 

If I were to check the MXM connectors, how exactly would I get to them? I would rather not open the laptop if I don't absolutely have to, but I might if I don't have any other choice. I've never opened the computer before, so I don't really know where the MXM connectors are. Is it a difficult process? Also, how would I get at the SLI bridge?

 

You have to open the back cover of the laptop(the one facing down normally). And it is a rather tedious process to get to these cards because of the heatsinks covering them. There is a youtube video showing the full disassembly of this laptop, but frankly speaking, I would seek help if you never done this kind of thing before.

 

If that's the case, I might just not bother opening the laptop. The issue only pops up during certain restarts, and it is always fixed (albeit temporarily) by restarting the computer. I ran a stress test (Firestrike Ultra) earlier today to make sure the GPUs could handle games still, and it went perfectly fine. Is there a chance this could all be software related rather than hardware? I would think the GPUs would have more issues if they weren't properly connected. I could be completely wrong though.