***The Official MSI GT80 Titan Owner's Lounge***

The NVME boot post initialization takes longer than SATA...

 

100% True.
My wife's 5 year old Dell Vostro would like be in the desktop while I am still on the splash screen on the GT75 laptop which is like 10 times more powerful than her laptop.

 

Weird. I disabled fast boot and now the system is back to booting the way it was. In under 30 seconds. From the time you push the on switch to the login prompt. I have a multiboot menu with a 10 second time-out that I am not including in the 30-second mark.

With fast boot enabled, it's around 2 minutes. Does not make any sense.

I also turned on secure boot FWIW.

 

Try disabling "FastStartUp" in Windows, or better yet, disable Hibernation which FSU depends on:

Start a CMD shell As Administrator:

powercfg /h off

reboot,

to reenable:

powercfg /h on <- I wouldn't do that though...

At startup FastStartUp may be copying files around to "optimize/speedup" startup.

If you are constantly installing / uninstalling / patching and editing system files, then FSU will be constantly slowing down start up by moving around files...unironically slowing down Windows start up.

 

It worked OK for me, However I did have some disconnects occasionally (and it wasnt the wifi, this happened on multiple wifi routers). Tried different driver versions an eventually got it mostly stable on win 10. To be fair, the original Intel option that shipped with the GT80 2QE was also plagued with bad drivers for a while.
I just wanted to share my experience with the latest Intel 9260 Chipset in case someone else wanted to move to something more current. This was information i was looking for and couldn't find anywhere, so i tried my luck and had a good experience. I now have Bluetooth 5 and AC wave 2 for faster throughput, the range is also better, and for me i find the connection far more stable. All for $17.

 

My bootup time is back to 27 seconds.

 

So now I got the following configuration SSD-wise:

Samsung PM981 as the primary boot drive with Win10
Samsung PM951 as the clone boot drive
Samsung 860 Evo m.2 with Linux on it
Samsung 860 Evo 2.5" with data on it.

 

That's an interesting mix.

 

It is. I am contemplating upgrading the PM951 although there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. It's about 2 to 3 times slower than PM981 but it only evident when copying tons of data, which rarely happens and only then by a few seconds.

Perhaps some day I will upgrade all of these to 2TB units, when their prices drop down to reasonable levels. When they cost what 1TB costs today. With SATA ones, 860 Evo, you are stuck with SATA speeds which are still almost an order of magnitude faster than HDD.

 

The 1525 is a bit outdated now. It only supports speeds up to around 400 Mbps, whereas the 1535/1435 support speeds up to 867 Mbps. The Killer 1550, however, is essentially an Intel 9260 with our coding added to it, so if you want to update to a faster wireless adapter but keep our feature set, that would be the way to go. https://smile.amazon.com/Killer-Wireless-AC-1550-Module-Dual/dp/B079LW5SPQ\

Not that there is anything wrong with the Qualcomm-based Killer adapters. We just don't have one, at least as of now, that is capable of utilizing 80-160 MHz channel widths.

-- Anthony with Killer Networking

 

Interesting. I don't get anywhere those speeds so would the 1550 card make any difference for me?
I get 75Mb/sec at best. It seems the bottleneck is not the card itself but the network and the distance to the modem/wifi hotspot.

 

In order for the 1550 to be an improvement over the 1525, you would have to have a wireless access point that supports Wireless-AC speeds up to 867 Mbps, and you would have to have a good enough signal from the wireless access point. To hit the 1550's maximum theoretical speeds of over 1 Gbps, you would need a good enough signal, low enough interference, and a router capable of handling 160 MHz channel widths. Unfortunately, it sounds like you have already diagnosed this as a signal strength issue, in which case nothing is going to help but getting closer to the access point, or removing solid objects between the access point and the machine. Wider channel widths will actually diminish signal strength, so even if your router can support wider widths, that's probably not going to help if you already know that the issue is distance from the access point.

-- Anthony with Killer Networking

 

In my GT80 SLI Titan, I have Killer 1535 Wireless Network adapter.

I don't have any complaints about it. I think it gets the max speed it can under the circumstances.

 

Dears,

First of all, I try to be my best to be fluent in English, because it's not my native tongue. And I'm not very specialized in IT too!

Here is my issue:

Like the image below, the front cover, once opened, looks like this:



So I've got natively in position SSD2 and 3 Toshiba 128go each mounted in Raid

I do not want to mount my new ssd raid nor boot on it, nor anything complicated! I know little about it, so I do not want to try anything "technical"

I just want to add memory on one of the slots available (in this case the most accessible, the "SSD 4" of the photo).

Now, once it is installed, I screw it, close everything and try to turn on the computer that goes out immediately, as short-circuited. No time to access the BIOS of course.

I learned the best that I could before the purchase of my SSD storage to be sure to have taken something that is compatible (the M.2, the PCIE, ...)

And so I bought this precise model (512gb):

https://www.materiel.net/produit/201804260082.html

I also learned about the slot M key and B and M key, but, my card fits perfectly (and that anyway, there is only one notch on the connectors) I do not feel that the problem comes from there.

Maybe, I thought, I read that only the 2 ports on which SSDs 2 and 3 are connected are compatible PCIE (and even more so VNME). Which I hope not, because I do not want to touch these native SSDs that are mounted in Raid and support the OS.

Can anyone confirm or deny me this assumption?

Or explain to me why the computer "switch off" on ignition?

Offer me a solution?

Or at least, which SSD precisely I should buy to put in that damn slot 4?

Thank you so much in advance for any help you could give me.

 

MSI GT80 only support m.2 SATA SSD... NVME drive not supported.

 

But it’s GT80S!

 

Then you are in the wrong thread, this is the GT80 thread - see title above:

***The Official MSI GT80 Titan Owner's Lounge***

You want one of the GT80S threads...or at least clearly declare your model number in full, including the "S". For example: GT80 SLI-263. This avoids these little confusions.

For some reason " -=$tR|k3r=-" never put up an inclusive GT80S Owners thread, but this is close enough:

***The Official MSI GT80S Titan (w/desktop 980 GPU's) Owner's Lounge***
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...itan-w-desktop-980-gpus-owners-lounge.785384/

 

Check and check. Strangely my bootup times went to 2 minutes, on cold boot. Mostly it hangs at the MSI splash screen for 2 minutes and from there, it boots in 15 seconds.

and if I reboot, it's very fast.

what can explain this strange behavior.

 

Power On Cold boot - Full POST, warm boot (reboot) is quicker.

 

chkdsk /scan

fixed it. Back to 29 second cold boots.

 

Hmmm, didn't see it was 2 minutes, musta been in a hurry when I replied

I do a chkdsk once in a while as a matter of course, and whenever I have an interrupted boot or shutdown, as Windows sucks.

Glad you got it fixed

 

what is "Full POST"?

 

Also called cold boot, Power On Self-Test = POST

 

Strangely, it went back to 2-minute boots. Re-run chkdsk /scan and found no issues.

 

So are you saying that cold boot 2-minute boots is normal and 29 second reboots are normal also?

How do I avoid the "Power On Self-Test = POST"

 

Neither chkdisk /scan nor sfc /scannow found any issues.

 

Just reinstall windows. Will be faster and easier. And you can't avoid POST as it is integrated into PC itself. It checks if your HDD's, RAM modules etc. is present. More on that you can find here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test

 

The Windows Fast Startup and Slow Shutdown - powered by Hibernation, rearrange files order to speed up startup, but actually due to the way it triggers the rearrangement, it mostly slows things down - so disabling Hibernation stops all that silliness and gives you a real startup and shutdown, cutting time off both.

Start a cmd window As Administrator:

powercfg /h off

to reenable - no reason for it really:

powercfg /h on

If you already have Hibernation disabled, look for a startup tool that might be doing similar busy work at boot - slowing startup.

 

Hi again guys!

My MSI GT80titan is busted again. It just won't boot. Stuff that I tried so far:

1. System Restore = Did not work
2. Boot to Safe Mode = Sometimes it boots
3. PC repair boot thing on diagnostic = does not work
4. I tried to reset the laptop completely but it just hangs on the end
5. I tried manually reinstalling Windows, it was installed properly but it won't still boot. (booted once or twice then nothing)

It used to just loop restart after the logo but now since there is a New OS installed it just boots then I get stuck on a "corrupted screen". Like a discolored screen that froze or something, kinda weird.
Since I already reinstalled my Windows, it is not a software problem anymore, so my next step is to find a bootable SSD scanner/diagnostic tool so I can scan if my x3 raid 0 ssd is busted. Where can I find such a tool? Hopefully a free one that I can boot via USB Thanks!

 

Remove all SSD's, clean the contacts/gold fingers with a napking moisted in IPA and re-insert them, my GT72 sometimes wont boot due to an M.2 SSD moving a tiny bit, removing and re-inserting always fix it.

 

@senso
I tried booting from a USB Windows and it booted so it must really be my SSD who is causing the problem. I tried cleaning it and it is still the same problem. Should I try to aggressively clean it again? 'Cause I was so delicate in cleaning the SSD golden contacts, also I did not clean the contacts on the mobo part.

EDIT: Since I can't find a working bootable ssd scanner/diagnostics. I will try to switch and swap the 3 ssd to isolate the failing one

 

You can use ubuntu, download the desktop ISO, use RUFUS to make a bootable USB pen with the iso, go into live boot, then press Win key, type Disks and your SSD's will be all there, there is a small cogwheel icon/right click and make show Smart Status(or was it SMART and performance status), it will show all the SMART fields and it might help to narrow it down.

A light cleaning is all that its needed, you did well not going ham on the contacts, the sockets you could brush them VERY lighty with a soft toothbrush, but I never had problems with a socket, only with the contacts(at least both my MX300 m.2's are like 1mm shorter and they sit a bit crooked on the screw, and months of banging around will make them make bad contact).

 

@senso
This is what happens when I reinstall windows:
1. 3 ssd in = it will reinstall properly then boot, after like 10 minutes of idling/rebooting it will encounter the problem.
2. 2 ssd in = same thing
3. 1 ssd = still working so far but I'm seeing signs of it failing like there are colors sometimes that pops on the screen

It will usually boot recycle non stop or just freeze on the video discoloration I'm talking about. I managed to get a picture of it ( https://imgur.com/a/QirvSbr)

I managed to run a SSD diagnostic software named CrystalDiskInfo on my Titan. All the x3 SSD and x1 HDD says "Good" and does not display an error or whatnot.

Right now I'm trying to install the windows on the secondary HDD on the Titan to check it will result to the same problem. I will backup all my files first though.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but failing ssd shouldnt give you such artifacts in video. It could be your ram or video cards.

 

@Lumlx
Seems like it, 'cause I used mulitple storage already and it seem to work at first but then it will go back to the original problem of rebooting and showing discoloration. On my next goal, I will re-seat the RAMs and GPUs and put another thermal paste on the GPU since it was removed last time it had a problem.

I'm also getting this error now since I can sometimes manage to boot properly from a freshly installed windows.
https://imgur.com/a/pbCQQ0W

 

Try to boot with only iGPU. If this fails then try only 1 stick of ram. Try switching ram slots.

 

@Lumlx
Running with iGPU now, so far so good. I was wondering, how can I restore my old partition of msi gt80 titan? I deleted the partition from my x3 SSD raid 0 as well as my secondary HDD. How can I restore it? or maybe they have a windows 10 like that? Cause I remember using windows 8 before then upgraded to windows 10. I might have lost some important partition that MSI have by default.

 

Ok I'm back, Finally I got my thermal pad, applied it on my GPU, and re-applied the grease as well. x3 SSD and x1 HDD all got wiped clean and with fresh windows.

I set the bios to use DGPU but problem now on my device manager it says on both my gtx 980m "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43). Already re installed the nvidia drivers, I will try to re-seat or mix and match the GPUs later when I'm free.

 

Try using only one gpu. Master slot is right side if laptop is upside or left slot when it is downside.

 

Anyone who has the GTX 980 SLI tried to upgrad to a GTX 1070/1080 ? Is it possible?

 

Ok before I do that, I think I might know the cause of that error. Code 43 can also be a problem with the distribution of power on my gpu, looking closely the c8 part which I assume a shortcut for capacitor 8 was removed, so maybe it is the one causing the problem since capacitors regulate power? I wonder if soldering it will fix the problem?

This is the old photo of c8 when it was attached ( https://imgur.com/a/vgOsi0B)

I can't find the part anymore though T_T

 

It was my issue before, I forgot the reason they told me but seems like the 980m is the max gt80titan can do, It is upgrade-able from 960m/970m to 980m but that is it. That is why there was like an uproar/lawsuit cause they promised an upgrade able laptop so some parts of the world got a promo that you can swap your titan to a new laptop or something like that.

EDIT: Ok I remember that it has something to do with the board/power requirements does not support more than 980m which is seriously a scam considering I paid 5k~$ for this system that lasts about 3 years? and a FALSE advertising campaign that says it is upgradeable for some generations/years to come.

 

I have upgraded from 970m to 1070 and it kind of works. I cant get image on internal screen due to lvds panel however I can get on external. It works perfectly fine this way, even g-sync is syppprted.

 

Ok done with mix and matching my gpu, turned out the other GPU is failing so I decided to use x1 gtx980m for the mean time. I'm using the gpu that got one of the capacitor removed which is c8, weird. I think it will fail eventually in the near future. The bnew 980m is so expensive and I don't think it's worth buying it.

Overall I was not satisfied how my 5k+ USD MSI laptop turned out. Busted in just about 3 years. I will try a different brand next time. Thanks all for the help.

 

If you don't need portability I would look into getting a desktop. Way more practical in the long run. Also if space is a problem you can always build small form factor pc. Check out sffpc subreddit. They post a lot of cool small stuff.

 

Here is another question.

Is the GT80 and the GT80s categorized as the same class , and also upgradability features?

 

Hi, my gt80 with just one 980m is unable to display image in the internal display, but when i run on the Igpu it works perfectly, if i want to get image from the 980m i need to plug an external monitor, anyone knows whats the cause of that issue? Is pretty annoying.

 

That's a good one to ask MSI Technical Support, even if you have expired warranty support, MSI can still help, it doesn't hurt to ask.

 

The pre-pascal models are eligible for the MSI Trade-in program, email them with your model number and details and ask for the current trade-in spreadsheet.

 

I contacted msi and the ask me to send them the pc, paying a fee and then the labour, any other idea?