***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

If I was correct with my measurements, anything over 9.5mm caused that panel bulge. In fact even my stock drive caused a very slight bulge (granted I am really picky about these things) so I removed the protection cushions to eliminate the bulge. I'm still waiting on the 3 platter 3TB HDDs to drop which will be 9.5mm and a perfect upgrade for that slot. Large capacity SSDs are still super expensive and since I also need a junk drive in a computer to throw things around I think HDDs are still good. My HDD goes rarely above 45C even under full load, so temperatures were fine for me.

 

My experience shows the HDD's run hotter for me than a cool running SSD, and removing 2.5" drives completely reduces the cooling heat load in the laptop.

I don't need to carry that much data with me, so I use external storage for backups. Sometimes a slim external carried with me as needed, or network connected storage for backing store.

Early on I removed HDD's to reduce power draw and increase time on battery, but these days battery time isn't as important to me - YMMV.

Running without a 2.5" is possible with the dense 1TB M.2 SATA drives which are much cheaper than the M.2 PCIE x4 drives - which for all their speed shown in benchmark tests don't show any improvement in day to day usage.

As they are today I consider the M.2 PCIE x4 drives a waste of $$$ over the more cost effective and cooler running M.2 SATA drives.

HDD's are just too noisy, hot, and SLOW for me to put up with in a laptop.

 

I always thought there was an msata ssd installed, but I see that the msata ssd slot is open. So there is a 256gb nvme ssd installed?

My sandisk ssd installed fine. One issue is that after I removed the hard drive I still get the faint frog/cricket noise that I thought was coming from the mechanical hard drive.Both my fans on each side are making a strange noise now actually.

One on the right makes a faint frog/cricket type noise, one on the left is making a faint chain like noise, almost like a obnoxious mechanical hard drive would. Is there anything I can do you think to quiet them down a bit? I thought these sounds were initially from the mechanical hard drive but now I know they are definitely coming from the fans.

 

Hmmm, how old is your purchase? If you are getting annoying mechanical fan noise out of both sides, maybe you should swap it for another one if you are still within the return period?

If you can't return or swap it, then you will need to work with MSI to get an RMA to fix it. See if you can find the RPM at which each fan exhibits the noise so you can let MSI know how to reproduce the sounds so they can hear them and fix them.

Also, there are no "msata" drives in the GT80/GT83 series, they are M.2 2280 form factor.

Those 2 standards, mSATA and M.2 NGFF 2280 / 2260 are physically different:
http://www.thessdreview.com/our-reviews/adata-axns360e-128gb-m-2-mpcie-ssd-review/

 

It's like a 2 week old system. I could return it but I'd rather try and solve the issue first because the system is fine otherwise. Not a fan of RMAing a laptop like this either. Can't the fan bearings be lubed with sewing machine oil or something? Not really into sending a whole system like this for RMA obviously especially only after having it for about a couple of weeks. Ya just hate to return at this point as it would be the second time and I put my hard drives in, installed all my programs, etc.

But fans sound normal at 1200rpm or less and are virtually silent. When I tune it to go around 1300rpm and up I get a faint frog/cricket sound and a faint chain like sound on the left side.

I was looking at the blank slot and it does say msata labeled on the chassis which is why i stated msata.

 

Wow, it still has that embossed in the plastic? Sheesh, that's their short hand for M.2 SATA - which they didn't realize also looks like M SATA => mSATA.

It confused many in the GT80 era, I guess MSI is still using the same upper plastics for the GT83.

The fans are independent units, so you could simply order replacements. MSI has worked with GT73 owners with similarly noisy fans', so you might search through their owners thread for info.

Basically the owner filed a ticket with MSI complaining about the fan noise and offering to replace it if MSI would send them the fan(s), and MSI did just that. So, it's worth a shot.

If you have had your laptop for 2 weeks, you might already be past the return period, some are as short as 7 days, some 14 days, some 30 days or more, check with your reseller.

You don't want to get stuck with noisy fans, they often get worse over time, so I'd resolve it asap

 

waiting for that 6c

 

My GT83VR sometimes does not detect the Wifi card on startup, ie, it is not detected in the BIOS. Also when it is detected, when waking up from sleep mode, it sometimes disappears. As the problem is that it is not visible in BIOS from time to time, the inital suggestions of MSI support , install new windows drivers, made no sense at all. I followed their instructions but as expected installing the new Wifi drivers did not help. Then they suggested to do a recovery setup of Windows which I refused to follow up as there is zero chance that this will solve the card not detected in BIOS during startup problem. MSI support then referred me to MSI RMA who suggested that something might be wrong with the connection of the Wifi card and asked me to check this myself. This makes more sense, maybe it makes a bad contact which can be fixed by reseating it. I tried to locate the Wifi card but did not find it after removing the lid above the keyboard. Does anyone know how to get access to the wifi card in the GT83?
I have the Kaby Lake version with dual 1080.

 

I solved it myself. I found out that the Wifi card can be found if you remove the cover of the hinge behind the lcd screen. This cover can be pulled off without removing any screws. The Wifi card can be recognized by the two antenna wires connected to it. It can be removed by removing one screw and pulling it out with a tweezer. After removal I cleaned the contacts with nail polish remover and reseated the card. For testing I cold booted my laptop 30 times, each time the Wifi card was detected in Bios.

 

yet another example of diy and incompetent corp tech support. i know it sucks after paying so much money, but sometimes fixes like these work and dont have to trouble yourself and waste time via RMA, if things work out. great job on that

 

Good to know that you were able to resolve the issue. Seems like the contact on the card were not clean.

 

Hey guys,

I have been trying to enable the numpad at boot for a long time now. I have spent countless hours on this, read the Synaptics API, reverse engineered the drivers, recorded and replayed driver packets and many other things. Finally, I have succeeded. Now we can turn on and off the numpad with a program. Although I tested it on my computer, if anything happens it is your responsibility. I also used a library of Jessenic from XDA so thanks goes to him as well. Here is how to use it:

1-Extract the archive in a folder of your choice.
2-synapticsnumpad.exe is for instant toggling on and off your numpad.
3-numpad toggle.exe is for putting a shortcut into your startup folder (Start Menu), this program waits 15 seconds and then toggles the numpad by also hiding its window.
4-Create a shortcut to this numpad toggle.exe and put it in your startup folder (C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\StartUp) for me.
5-Well that's it, your numpad will be enabled automatically every boot.

Regards.

 

this is an example of testing and knowing your own computer and laptop. going bga and a new laptop would mean spending more time re learning stuff again.

 

My NumLock is always on, turn it on in BIOS, then turn it on once when you're in Windows then do this:

• How to enable Num Lock on the Windows 10 Logon Screen

 

Are you talking about Synaptics numpad or a regular one? Other ones are easy, Synaptics is a software implementation.

 

For those of you with the GT83VR having problems with Oculus Rift NOT working with the HDMI port try this. Oculus Rift not working with HDMI Fix!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0OISVS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I added that and rift works fine with this inline.

 

Hello, guys, so I'm still working on improve the numpad of ours. Someone complained to me that the numpad wasn't able to generate Alt Codes (you hold Alt key and type a code, a symbol appears). So I have written a program to fix it. Extract the archive in some folder and put a shortcut to your Startup folder. When this program is running, you will be able to generate Alt Codes with your Synaptics Numpad.

Also, somewhere in the forums I saw someone asked if this numpad is able to repeat the keys so it could be used in games for direction etc. The answer is yes, but it also requires another program to be written.

 

Hey guys,

It took a lot more time than I anticipated but I coded another application which enables the Synaptic numpad keys to repeat. When you hold 7 key it now continues outputting number 7 like a mechanical numpad would do. So that we can use these keys as direction keys in games. I have tested the repeat function under text editors, so let me know if you test it under games like GTA V etc. Extract the archive in a folder of your choice and run numpad_repeat.exe when you would like to have the keys to repeat or just put a shortcut to this exe file under your Startup folder.

Regards.

 

Anyone here with 1080SLi can run overwatch on 4K DSR ultra setting (100% render scale) and uncap the fps to 300 while sitting in main menu?

Have your max fan on, I want to see temps for GPU0 and GPU1. Also tell me your ambient if possible, no cooling pad.

Thanks in advance.

 

msi should just go ahead and make a 20 inch laptop.

 

I have been banging on about that forever.

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Is it just me, or has Linus done like 4-5 GT8x reviews?



This is the first time Linus's mentioned screen tearing on the internal display while gaming.

I solved the rare occurrence of tearing by setting up RTSS with a FPS limit set to +-1 FPS = HZ of screen - and I OC the display to 100hz from 60hz, so setting FPS limit to 101 FPS or 99 FPS - depending on the game, and then no /lower tearing.

 

imho most of these video reviews tone down the laptop's worth. people who really cared and know the hardware and willing to put a bit extra effort can get even more performance out of GT83VR with the right bios/vbios and it would be same performance level as desktop counter part, only real concern is the heat.

they are making gt83vr look like a worser (if thats a word) buy than p870. if it's 21x it made more sense for performance value per dollar but they dont explain the unique side of the laptop it has to offer, larger display than just 17" for gt83, and 21 inch ultra wide/curved display for 21x.

p870 is good for performance per dollar but still leave out a lot to be desired, at least from my perspective..

 

Yeah, well, it falls both ways often enough, and you're right all of them can benefit from tuning, OC'ing, and likely will all perform close to each other, close enough to not matter.

Just get what appeals to you and make it work as best it can.

Out of the box performance is good enough for most, they'll outperform any other laptop without any tuning

 

u know its sad because back in the days, they had even more powerful mobile hardware, in comparison. GPU is definitely a big leap but CPU side of thing is a huge disappointment. with how intel is offering and pin down user overclock control capabilities they are selling crappier product each generation. in the old days we had default 3.1ghz and turbo to 4.1, this was the stock "out of box performance" and they even tone that down too.

 

hey guys, thanks to AMD intel might finally be pushing 6c mainstream mid this yr instead of early next yr.
http://wccftech.com/intel-coffee-lake-desktop-6-core-4-core-cpu-leaked/
still might be compatible of same socket and current chipset z270.

we really need MSI to do this and incorporate a desktop socket CPU in their gt8* line up, this is the power of socket machine with 2 straight yrs of continuous upgrade. is there any MSI rep that reads this? pls pass the message for their next flag ship laptop to come with socket machine, i guarantee it'll blow everything away given on their current design is already top notch.

 

Hello every one !! It look like a got my hands on a Msi gt83vr 1080sli system
For really good price .. 2300 USD .. how ever I'm a little worried about fan noise .. the little time I have to game is when I'm in bed and fan noise is a big deal to me (my wife ). I was wondering If using just one 1080 ok some gamin sessions would it make the fan noise a lot quieter ? Say closer to the gt73vr?

PleAse let me know any info ..

I also plan on doing a repaste if needed .


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It will always be loud whether if it's a single GPU or dual GPU gaming system. The difference is minor.

 

The GT8X series is much too large to use in your lap. And, the keyboard is right against the edge that hits your belly - no room for your arms to reach the keyboard.

Taking it into bed will take up too much room; even on a King there isn't enough room for 2 people and a GT8X comfortably.

You need 2x 330w PSU's connected - and they are *fused* to the short cable that connects into the connection box - so you can't split one off to reduce weight / carry / space.

The GT8X relies on air being pulled from the bottom of the case, so you can't just set it on the bed or comforter without starving it of cooling air intake - it will quickly overheat.

You can go through disabling one of the GPU's in the Device Manager to try to stop it from drawing power - but I think it still does.

Disabling SLI won't power down the GPU not being used - in fact some games might find it and use it for Physx after splitting them apart anyway.

It's still going to be noisy when gaming - the CPU fan will still run, and both GPU fans still run together even when one of the GPU's is disabled or not running, the CPU / GPU heat pipes crossover and are interconnected pushing heat to both heat exchangers and their fans.

You could try to find a tray with an arm that has a stand to keep next to the bed, and hang the tray over the bed, but it's going to take some considerable setup.

You'll probably want a separate keyboard and mouse to use, as you won't be able to reach up and use the keyboard / trackpad comfortably.

 

Thanks for all the info .. I was really hoping it would sound like gt73vr but sounds like it's not gonna happen .. I'm thinking I'll cancel my order and either go with a 73vr or Alienware


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For $2300 it's worth getting and experiencing, there's nothing else like it.

You can sell it for what you paid for it, maybe a bit more if you sell before the next Nvidia GPU's come out.

Any high end laptop with a 1080 is going to be too loud to share in bed, probably 1060 / 1070's too, unless you just browse the internet.

A good rule to follow for a happy life shared with another is to keep the (electronic) distractions out of the bedroom, and focus on the other person while there. Or, sleep, or both

 

I only take the computer out when she goes to bed never when she's awake .. that's why I want it to be quiet lol .. I work super long hours so once my wife in kids go to bed a play for an hour or two .

The 73vr I think was quiet enough but you might be right to give it a try


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You could try using MSI "Silent Mode" software to tune the fan curve to run the CPU / GPU hot, and the fan's quietly for those times.

And, use MSI Afterburner + RTSS to limit FPS to 60 FPS to match 60hz to reduce heat load.

I usually run at 100hz OC on screen and 100 FPS, but that's a lot louder than 60hz/60 FPS

It's doable, but it might take some effort / time to get a handle on it all.

Worth it in the end

 

You think so ? Hmmmm that might. It be a bad idea to test .. think it will be hard to sell if it's to much ?


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All high end laptops take a long time to sell, or they sell right away, it's the nack of getting lucky - putting it out there at the same time someone that is looking for it show's up

I've had laptops sell right when it lists, other take months, but eventually sell.

I don't lower the price either, I just wait for someone that wants it to show up.

Others complain about selling it for so little - probably like the guy selling you the GT83VR 1080 SLI @ $2300

Or you could get stuck with it if Nvidia drops the Volta before you sell it. But if you buy any 1080 laptop, and Volta starts shipping, it's also immediately going to drop in value and may be hard to sell too.

It's a tough decision when to time the buy, all the time

Nvidia Volta - GPU release date, price, specs, performance and rumours
26 April 2017
https://www.pcgamesn.com/nvidia/nvidia-volta-gpu-specifications

 

Very well said . Do you have a 83 you can test fan. I use in with one gpu ? And 60 fps cap.. if it to much to ask I fully understand..


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No, that's why I posted that review video of the GT83VR, it's the one I saw that kept me from buying, since it's much louder than the GT80 SLI 263 980m SLI.

The GT83VR vs GT80 is the same case, same display, same keyboard (GT83VR add's RGB), same trackpad, GT83VR adds a 2nd PSU, and the GT83VR increases the thickness in the rear by a lot to add a CPU cooling assist fan, and increased the 2 GPU fans size by a huge amount.

The GT80 SLI 263 980m SLI is *too* loud to have in bed when someone else is trying to sleep, and it's a lot quieter than the GT83VR.

 

What will happen if you use one power supply?


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Noone has mentioned trying...you'd need *another* individual 330w PSU to plug in - the pin-outs are the same - as the 2 provided 330w PSU's are welded into a connect that plugs into the combiner box, which ends up plugging in to the laptop directly.

I would imagine the firmware would catch the inadequate power situation, and refuse to run.

 

Ok cool I was think maybe it would disable the second gpu


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The power of the 2x PSU's is combined, not directed to any particular circuit, it would register to the laptop as "not enough power" to continue operation - and fail to boot or boot with unstable characteristics.

You could tear apart your laptop and remove one of the GPU's, that would accomplish what you want, to completely disable a GPU. And, don't forget to unplug the associated Fan too - but that might cause a boot failure.

Someone recently did this crazy thing, to "sell" the 2nd GPU to make the laptop cheaper - he only wanted 1 GPU. Nutz, right? To hack and slash a work of art like a GT83VR, turning it into a monster, half a monster even worse.

Maybe just resell it for more $ when you get it, and get something else if you feel the urge to take your new GT83VR to the butcher shop.

 

Yeah I didn't want to take it out because I will use it at times .. i might try taking it apart and doing a repaste on it with LM and then see if I can turn off sli and Lowe fan speed. And when I need the power I and turn it back on .. might be worth a shot ?


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Recently and most especially after updating to the Windows 10 Creators Update, I've had a few instances recently where I'll turn the laptop on and I will see the MSI logo and then the screen will go blank. External keyboard remains lit. If I wait it out, after a few minutes, the external keyboard will go dark and then laptop will reboot. MSI logo shows up again and after the standard amount of time, i'm presented with the login screen.

So.... was it performing a windows update? I used to see something on the screen on updates that would tell me to not turn off my computer and show a percentage complete.
Has anyone seen anything similar?

Nvidia Version: 22.21.13.8178
Windows Version: 1703 Build 15063.250

 

Is this by any chance booting on battery? (AC adapter not connected)

 

Good question.... I always run with AC connected.

 

when 2080 out to upgrade people will probably do the same, though i think single 1080 is more powerful than enough especially if he only wish to game on 1080p and on laptop display only. but seriously though i'd want to replace that empty slot with something, something like m.2 SSD slots to MXM adapter lolol then i'll have so much more ssd.

btw i wonder if MSI is getting a booth in computex, almost certainly will as they do desktop product and laptop too so maybe we can see some interesting new laptop design from them?

 

I will be trading in my gt80s for a gt83 model soon and have a few questions:

Does anyone know if there is any difference between gt83 models other than the ssd's, ram, and gpu's?

Are there any known issues with the GT83 models I should look for?

What is the average non gaming battery life of the gt83?

Can I switch to integrated graphics on the gt83?

Is the display the same on the GT83 as on the GT80s? Do you recommend getting it calibrated?

I was going to swap my ssd upgrades into my gt83 from my gt80s before shipping back the gt80s (im cross exchanging) with the parts from the base gt83. Should I attempt to swap myself or have a technician at a hardware store do it for me as I don't want to break tabs or mess it up before sending mine back

If I have an issue with the cross exchange computer is it possible to request a different one? Does anyone have any experience with this?

Is the second m.2 port available on the gt83?




Also, does anyone use their gt83 for college stuff? I'm still deciding whether I should take it with me at the end of the summer b/c im gonna need a thinner laptop anyway....

 

I'm an owner of GT80S, but I didn't want to leave your questions unreplied so I will try to answer the ones I know. (hopefully)

The biggest difference would be GPUs, and then the removable stuff like SSD, RAM like you mentioned and also HDD. I heard they will release a refreshed CPU but in a mobile application it wouldn't change a lot. Everything other than these should be the same. (Because they all share the same motherboard)

Think of the battery as a backup unit like a UPS, it is pretty limited. I would say 1.5 - 2.0 hours depending on your usage scenario, radios, brightness etc.

There is no integrated GPUs anymore, just discrete GPUs. While you could disable the SLI to save some power, it is not worth it, battery life still sucks.

Display is the same one even with the GT80. I find the color reproduction pretty accurate and wouldn't get it calibrated unless I was doing professional graphics work. Display is pretty awesome other than the resolution and there are some guys overclocking it to 100hz to better use their 1080 GPUs.

If you have done the SSD upgrades yourself there is no reason you can't remove them. There are 2 screws at the bottom of the laptop to be removed, so that you can remove the top cover and remove the SSDs. Pretty easy. If you have never done such thing before, maybe you could leave MSI do it for you.

I don't know about cross exchange sorry. But I myself, would try to keep SSDs to myself, it takes too much time explaining things later.

As far as I know, there are 2 M.2 slots for the PCIe SSDs and 1 M.2 slot for SATA SSDs. Availability depends on your config that you buy.

I carry my GT80S everyday to work in its bundled backpack. Its pretty moveable. However, I have an extra power adapter at work so its less weight for me. But the GT83 has 2 power adapters and also it is also heavier than GT80S so I would say it is good to be left alone on a desk in a dorm room. Maybe you could get yourself something like a Surface Pro 4 (heard there are pretty good deals for it now) so you could take handwritten notes and what not, and when you need to get serious work done, you can switch to your GT83.

 

I would also advice something like a surface pro for school and light work, while keeping the GT83 as a desktop replacement. I actually did that, I had my GT80 and my surface pro 2. Though now I have a GT73 which is considerably easier to move around haha.