Official MSI GE60 & GE70 2012 Owners' Lounge

I personally saw 20-30% load times MAX moving STALKER CALL of Prypyiat to an SSD and that stuttering loading a part of maps when i'm running didn't dissappear. So I was very disappointed. However at this time I use SATA2 VAIO as I haven't bought MSI yet.

About TEMP folder... Unless you oftenly unzip 1 gig and more archieves you don't need to move TEMP folder to HDD. But if you do smth HEAVY-SIZED then yeah. better to put in on HDD.

 

Ok gotcha but I still need a bit more direction here. What program are you using to clone your drive/windows OS install?

If I read this correctly... I install the SSD.... put my cloned drive info onto that..... reboot and set the SSD as the boot drive...... then format my 750gb HDD to use for data. Right now my drive is partitioned as C (OS_install) and D (Data). If I make the recovery CD's can I then format my HDD without the need to partition it?

Sorry for my confusion and ignorance but I'm coming back over to Windows after 4 years of using a MacBook Pro and I really dont want to mess up my efforts on my new MSI.

Thanks again guys!!

 

I use Paragon Migrate OS to SSD. See linky below:

http://www.paragon-software.com/technologies/components/migrate-OS-to-SSD/

This did all the job including alignment, renaming the partitions and copying all the Windows data. This makes an exact copy form the OS on your HDD to the SSD. The only thing you need to do is set a different boot order in tne BIOS to ensure that the SSD boots first. The softweare costs 15 euro, but is well worth the price. There are also some free choices/options, but these take more time to utilize and/or are more error prone if not followed correctly. The fre eoptions can enclude a clone using the Recovery CD from Windows, but there are 2 issues there when you deploy the HDD copy to your SSD.

1) Alignment is not correct, so you first need to set allignment of the SSD correct
2) The recovery contains your HDD disc signature, and Inread it could conflict with your SSD disc signature

For the free options see the link below:

http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/

Loads of stuff on this on the web.

Cheers,

Awaken

 

Do anyone think that it is possible to replace the keyboard? I'm mainly concerned about the connector.

 

Just got my laptop temporarily pulled out from repair - apparently it takes a month or so to ship the keyboard :|

Aside from the keyboard, this laptop is (close) to perfection. Oh well I have an excuse to buy the Blackwidow Tournament Edition roflmao

 

Thanks Awaken. I grabbed the Paragon program! And will use that. Any suggestions on a 250gb SSD?

 

I bought a Crucial mSata 256 GB

CT256M4SSD3 - 256GB, mSATA Solid State Drive , from Crucial.com

Crucial is one of the best currently available, see following review:

http://www.techspot.com/review/571-crucial-m4-msata-ssd/

Make sure to update the firmware drivers first before cloning the HDD to the SSD.

This is what I did

1) Plugin the mSata (it should be detected automatically, also in BIOS)

EDIT: Make sure you have the proper screw that fits in your Motherboard. With the mSata card there is no screw included, and this is a very tiny non standard motherbord screw. Took my 5 shops to find one, and the one I got was becuse the shop had an old laptop that had a similar screw in the motherbord, they removed for me . There is quite ome pressure on the mSata slot when you put the card in, and without the screw you have a problem . There are no spare screws of this type on the motherboard of the GE70. If you need to order this via MSI it might take some time

2) Boot from the HDD
3) Update Firmware of the SSD (download via website above) <-- IMPORTANT

EDIT: You might need to format the SSD after the firmware update. I did a format of the SDD, but this might be optional. Not sure if it required for Paragon to be formatted first

4) Defrag HDD and remove programs you do not need (you also could do a clean install first, depending on the amount of junk already installed).
- Defraggler to Defrag
- CCleaner to remove junk

EDIT: The Data on your HDD must be at least 90% of your SSD size. If not, Paragon will ask you to exclude some of your data during the migration process.

5) Make Backup and Repair disc of HDD (in Windows) (just in case things go wrong ) to External Drive

EDIT: You might want to set allignment of the SSD drive manually. Paragon should take care of this, but I did this manually before using the Paragon program. To set allignment correct, open a CMD prompt (admin) and use the following commands:
================================================================
Diskpart
List disk
Select disk n (where n is your SSD’s number as provided by the previous command)
Create partition primary align=1024
Active

Exit
================================================================

Make sure you select the SSD with N and not the HDD, else you lose all your data, and have a big problem, so triple check! Most likely the HDD will have n=0 and the SSD will have n=1. In case things go wrong you have the backup/repair disc to fix things.

6) Use Pargaon Migrate OS to SSD. Takes 10-15 min depending on amount of data. This will make a 1:1 copy of your HDD to SSD.
7) Change Boot order in BIOS to SSD. Windows should now load (superfast ) from your SSD. You will not that Drive letters changed. Your SSD will be C and your HDD will be D.
8) In Windows 7 use Disc Manager to Format the HDD, extend partitions if needed and rename drive letters if needed be.

EDIT: I kept the 15GB Recovery Paritition, and if Correct this should still boot with F3 so you always can restore. When I pressed F3 during boot, the Recovery still loaded.

9) If correct, you should still have an anoying 100 MB Windows boot partition on the HDD that you cannot remove via Disc Manager. You can start a CMD prompt (as admin) and run Diskpart commande to inactive and format the 100 MB BOOT. Use Disc manager to Extend the Space. Google for Diskpart options.
10) IMPORTANT: Now you Windows 7 does NOT boot anymore, and this is where the Repair Disc comes in . Boot your PC from the Windows Repair Disc, and this will automatically detect that your Boot files are missing and it will repair them for you. If not, you can select manually in one of the options
11) Voila, clean install on SSD without the anoying 100 MB boot partition.

EDIT

12) Use the following guide to make optimizations for your SSD in Windows

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-performance-tweak,2911.html

13) You can perform some additional tweaks if needed, such as moving temp files and IE files to the HDD, but this is optional and preference.

If you do not care that the 100 MB Windows Boot partition is on the HDD, then steps 9-10 are optional; however, everything on the HDD is slower then on the SSD, so I rather not have my Boot files on the HDD. Furthermore, I personally do not want an additional partition of 100 MB, just for booting Windows, but this is personal preference.

Once Windows 8 is released this week, I will do a clean install of Windows 8; however, I read that you need to have a valid Windows version already installed on the disc you want to upgrade Windows 8 to (eg via clean install). Therefore, you first need to clone Windows 7 to the SSD.

Cheers,

Awaken

 

oh god. looking at the steps to install an msata makes me not want to get one anymore. I was planning on buying one and currently i am saving up for it but with that much things to do i think it will really be a hassle or Pain in the As*! oh well maybe next time if i have some time to waste and money to spend. for now a HDD will do

 

It's not hard. It's only difficult if you do the whole cloning thing. A clean install is cake.

 

hi, I am new in here. I just bought MSI GE60 15-3210M, Nvidia Geforce GTX660, LED 15" - do you guys think this laptop able to run Nvidia 3d Vision 1/2 generation? some people said that it cannot and I need proper 3d monitor with 120hz display rate. Please kindly help me by answering this question. I almost bought Nvidia 3d vision kit when the shopkeeper telling me that it's not design for laptop....hmmmm

 

It's not capable of 3D indeed. You need the 120Hz screen for that, which you can only get on Alienwares on a laptop as far as I know.

 

Should i be conserned about warenty when i add other parts, ssd and RAM to my ge60?
And what about overclocking? Would it affect my warrenty too?

 

https://addons.mozilla.org/ru/firefox/addon/united-states-english-spellche/

 

what do you mean with that link? Its a spelling checker..

 

I dont think it will affect your warranty as long as you get rid of the evidence(software used for overclocking) if your going to send it in for repair. )

the gathering/attracting of dust is starting to get in my nerve. Makes me want to sell this ge60 and get a 9150 for the same price +gtx675. LOL.

 

Hello guys!
I tried to take my GE60 apart but I can't get the front panel (where the keyboard and touchpad are) off. It seems to get stuck somewhere.

I removed 30 screws + 3 for the fan plus the ones for the other removed parts. I marked the first 33 green in the picture.
The blue is a screw that I think is loose but just not falling out just yet.

The red areas in the picture are where it is stuck.
I can see 4 clips at position 1 so that is not my problem.
But at position 2 and 3 I cannot see where it is stuck. At 4 it looks like there could be a screw under a silver colored sheet but I'm not sure.



Do anyone that have taken it apart know if there are hidden screws anywhere?

 

I didn't hear about anyone taking their GE60 apart yet (aside from taking the back panel off and changing some components/repasting). I think your best bet is to PM some notebook sellers as they probably have experience with it.

 

I don't think the GE-series support nVidia 3D Vision over HDMI (using an external 120Hz or above LCD). The built-in 15.6" LCD in the GE60 is 60Hz, so it doesn't support 3D (which needs at least a 120Hz LCD). I don't see any options in the nVidia Control Panel for 3D Vision using the stock drivers or the last 2 GeForce drivers from the nVidia webpage.

Does anybody know about an upcoming GT70 with a GTX680M, GTX675MX, or GTX680MX with a 120Hz LCD bundled with the nVidia 3D Vision 2 kit?

 

I dunno if anyone has already asked about this... but has anyone tried DotA 2 on the GE70 (i7, 660m, etc)? If yes, is it possible to max everything out (Vsync OFF) and get constant 60 fps?? Thanks.

P.S. Sorry if someone already posted stuff 'bout DotA 2 running on GE70. I'm not really really good with searching.

 

I get 45-60 fps with aa off and vsync off. 45 in clashes/fights. Although i get this problem where in after like 4-5 games when i return to the main menu(after the game) my fps in the main menu DROPS to 10-12 from your normal 70-80 fps but still you can find a game and when you are in the game you get the normal fps but i have to restart dota2 inorder to get the normal fps i get in the main menu. Super weird but its not a major deal breaker since when i game its normal.

 

I've never monitored the FPS in Dota 2, but that's because I've never felt it's slowing down. I play it maxed out and no AA just like jpsm, so you won't have any problems with it.

 

My laptop started making weird noises today. As far as I can tell it's the HDD (or from that area) and its a ticking sound every few seconds along with a sound like when you try to pry a plastic cover from something, but it falls back as your nail slips out (can't describe it better ^^). Is the HDD supposed to give sounds like this during normal operation (because it didn't before), or what could cause this, anyone have any ideas?

Also, it's not continuous and it doesn't seem to be linked to HDD activity (I've played some Warcraft III, no noise, then when I quit it started. Then I copied some stuff to a pen drive and it stopped again..)

 

Некн to use quiethdd

 

I've checked it out, downloading now. Didn't even know that such a power saving feature existed in laptop HDDs as I've never heard this sound in my previous machines. Thanks a lot and +rep .

 

I also have this problem that is why i am considering getting a ssd.

 

hey guy..im new to this forums

i just got my new msi GE70 yesterday
i facing 2 problems which is the sbar and the cpu

the sbar is disable when i restarted the notebook while i uninstalled all the Magix(software) things(not sure is it this causing sbar not functioning)
things that i've done before sbar is no longer working - set to high perfomance (causing the cpu heat in second case?)
Unplugged battery( using AC adapter only)

my cpu running @ 41~46*C while idle & running @ 69~83*C while full load(without tubro fan on) game - League Of Legends ( all maxed out with max resolution )

i just curious about the cpu running around 40~46*C while idle-ing is it high?

 

Its not high... its "silent"

Fan is almost at a stop... thats why the temperature is kinda high even at idle... and honestly... i prefer it that way

 

My CPU idles a around 48-50C after use and around 40C when just booted up, so your temps are perfectly normal.

Regarding the S-Bar, you could try reinstalling it, but I've had no such problems with it.

 

thx for the quick reply & info guys

@DaCM
- alright..i'll reinstall it now..

 

thank you for the answer

 

Thank you for the answer,

Does anybody know about an upcoming GT70 with a GTX680M, GTX675MX, or GTX680MX with a 120Hz LCD bundled with the nVidia 3D Vision 2 kit? --- sounds interesting

 

I was wondering how can the MSI GE70 gets around 70C - 90C temps with only one cooler while Samsung Series 7 NP700Z7C-S01US gets this same temp with two coolers?

 

It could have a fridge installed but it wouldn't matter if it was cooling the wrong thing. It's all about the design....

 

Not talking abut that it could be 10 fans but they would cool the same way as 1 good cooler because its all about volume level and temperature. fans start blowing at the scheme and its speeds depends on temperature. If manufacturers decided fans work at 100% only when temperature reaches 70 degrees then it will be.

 

Hi, I'm planning to buy a MSI GE60 probably this month. I'm having quite a trouble because I'm not sure if the models that are sold here has the feature Killer Gaming Network. Is there any way to find out that the laptop is installed with the Killer E2200 Gaming Network? Although, it is a MSI GE60-OND, I just want to make sure it comes with that feature before buying the laptop.

 

My keyboard makes a clunking sound when a key is pressed. I don't know how to describe it. It sounds OK to most of the people. It feels to me like the base of the keyboard is loose and whenever a key is pressed a little harshly it produces a clunking sound. Anyone else having this problem? Should I RMA it?

 

I do NOT know if it is possible or safe on MSI but on VAIO laptop this was fixable by removing key, blowing air to remove any dirt, dust or liquids and putting key back.

 

Well i bought an mSATA SDD (muskin 240gig) its a pretty good ssd for now... very warm...


The original hard drive is clicking... probably a problem with the anti-shock parking technology from crapachi...when it goes idle... its not dangerous for now but it show that the drive is crap... its very annoying when you watch a movie at work...


Time to see how they deal with warranty...

 

ah i was already wondering what that clicking sound was and if i should be worried by it, thanks!

 

Yeah... its stupid that every time the drive goes idle it makes that stupid click noise... trying to get a new drive from MSI... might be harder than it should....

Worst case scenario ill buy a WD drive and dump that crapachi in an external bay.

 

I've tried quietHDD and interestingly that didn't stop the clicking either, so I guess I'll just have to live with it until I get an SSD..
Other than the clicking I'm quite satisfied with the HDD though.

 

Actually the laptop is brand new. I haven't been using it for more than a week so there is no question of dust or liquid getting under the keys. Either I am not used to this keyboard or it is just loose. I used to have Asus N61JQ and the keyboard felt solid and each keystroke was isolated. On GE60 it feels like I have missed a keystroke when pressing.

 

Is the built quality of this thing good?

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk 2

 

My Sony VAIO also was new out of the box and it also had bad sound when I pressed Space bar. I have already told you what owners of VAIO did for fixing it.

 

For those of you looking for what caddy to get for the optical bay, I have found a solution. I sent out a few emails to laptop resellers and got this response from XoticPC.com

I haven't ordered mine yet, but XoiticPC has a great reputation so I'm sure it will be a good fit.

 

Anyone know of a bluray drive I can buy to swap into my GE60?

 

Something is telling me that universal caddy for 10$ from ebay will also fit it

 

Sorry for doublepost.

I'm curious, MSI GE70 0ng-033US has glossy palmhand but I can't find if a successor 0ND-213US has the same palmhand! All pictures I saw don't tell me for sure if that is the special light or matte finish preventing from a glossy look

 

Yes, those caddies from Ebay fits the laptop. I have one with replacable faceplate which I used to switch the CD Drive with the Hard Drive caddy, and I replaced the faceplate and it works great.

 

Not really. It's fully made out of plastic, the screen frame is loose, the DVD drive is a bit loose, the whole frame (!) twists if you try to twist it, so in general it's not very rigid. There is some keyboard flex as well, however it's not even noticeable during typing.

Now on the other hand, the laptop weighs 2,4 kg and is ridiculously thin considering the hardware inside. In other words, you won't get an other laptop that's this light and thin with the same performance; so if you are willing to sacrifice rock solid build quality for this go get a GE60. If not, your best bet is probably the ASUS G55VW which has the same hardware, but with great build quality, however it weighs around 3,5kg (don't know the exact data) and it's quite thick as well.