Official MSI GE60 & GE70 2012 Owners' Lounge

Battery life test: 3 hours 47 minutes doing office work, etc. The details are in post #382 page 39.

 

Sometimes after I exit a game (even sometimes in the game) and it goes from NVIDIA to Intel GPU, I notice a like greenish tint on gray colors that goes away after a few minutes.

Any idea what that could be? I don't think it's heat because the things barely warm.

 

Mod'ed or corrupt drivers could be the case. Are you running non-official drivers?

Have you tried logging your temps while gaming using HWiNFO64? Run it Sensors only, and enable logging by hitting 'Logging Start'. When done gaming hit Stop. Saves as an Excel spreadsheet, easily viewable. That way we can eliminate temp problems first. Sustained > mid-high 90s °C might be a concern.

 

I'm actually pretty sure now it's a loose monitor cable. It happens when I love the lid in certain ways. How can I fix this without destroying the thing?

That's so weird. It seems to be physical, but then I can only recreate it sometimes and usually only after playing a game for 15 minutes or so. That sounds like a heating thing doesn't it?

Doesnt seem to be the temp. Seemed to have maxed out at like 82 degrees C.

 

Maybe too much love for that lid.Best find a good woman.

All kidding aside,lift up the touch control bar and look for the 40 pin monitor cable connection to the motherboard.

 

So when you physically move the lid it happens?
From what I've read, Optimus uses muxless switching -the nVidia GPU's output is connected to the HD 4000, and the 4000 is connected to the LCD. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
So if this is correct maybe the cable is loose like you said. I've never replaced an LCD cable before, but there are several people on this forum that have. Maybe you should post this question in the main MSI section or the Sager/Clevo forum, which is where I saw people replacing their LCDs. Or maybe contact MSI support. Sorry I couldn't help.

Edit: Whoops, spoke to soon, it looks like WhatsThePoint knows. Hopefully it's just not in the connector tight enough.

 

Try reseat it on motherboard end first. That's easier.
Then if you have to take off little rubbery plugs covering screws, unscrew it all and replugin cable and reapply clear tape to hold in place

 

No no no and no. Don't take the screen apart. Like what whatsthepoint said, remove the touch bar and you should find a wide cable coming from the screen.

 

About ny keyboard issue few pages back. ( My laptops keyboard doesn't work right, for example if I press S on the keyboard it types 5 and so on, most of the keys don't work at all )

I have contacted msi support service for advice and they told me to update firmware and BIOS but neither of them worked.

I also contacted my resellet but they told
me that returning could take 2-4 weeks and getting new working computer about a week.

My problem is that I'm leaving for a vacation abroad in a week and my military service begins in three weeks.
I can't really manage this thing from military because we aren't allowed to use electronic devices for a month.

If I take my laptop to maintenance will warrantit cover it? If not how much would repairs cost?

Sent from my iPhone using tapatalk.

 

Just tested it for you, performs very well:

 

Outstanding. A stock GTX 660m (according to NotebookCheck) gets an average of 11151 GPU. Ken's score is 11304. So roughly GTX 670m performance.

Forgot to ask one thing, though: Temperatures. With those kind of clocks, and a one-opening venting system, what temperatures did you see, Ken? You know me, I love my cool laptops.

 

Have any of you ran the Metro 2033 benchmark? I just ran it.
Does this look right? This is the Steam version if that makes a difference. I compared it with other GPUs using the notebookcheck link below. Thanks.
Edit: It looks like notebookcheck doesn't use the official benchmarking tool. What kind of score should I be getting here? I've had the game for a while but never installed it til now.
Computer Games on Laptop Graphic Cards - Notebookcheck.net Tech

Spoiler

 

Hi guys,

I'm really interested in this laptop as a replacement for my year old Dell XPS 17.

I'm looking at the only GE60 that I can find on sale in the UK, but the specifications are quite murky.

MSI GE60 Gaming Laptop 15.6" LED Full HD Intel I5-3210QM, 4GB DDR3, 500GB HDD, NVIDIA GTX 650M 2GB GDDR5 Graphics, Win7 Home Premium 64-Bit - Black [GE60 ONC-030UK]

Not even Intel has heard of a Core i5 3210QM processor, and it only has a GT 650M. The model numbers are all over the place too.

Hopefully more places will start stocking it soon with Core i7 3610QM and GTX 660M. I'm looking at a few others too, namely the Lenovo Y580 but not sure yet. It's to take to university with me, but I'm an avid gamer too and whilst the XPS 17 has been great, I feel the GT 555M is struggling and it's just too big to move around comfortable. One thing I'm worrying about is battery life of roughly 4 hours? Does it underclock the GPU whilst on battery like the Acer Timeline Ultra M3? I get around 6-7 hours with a 9 cell in this Dell so it would be a bit of a downgrade, but I could live with it.

EDIT: I've found stores in Germany that stock the version I want, and it would out much cheaper than buying that model here. Works out at £895, just gotta check out customs charges. Not sure if they apply for EU bought things.

The same place stocks the Y580 with 3610QM and GTX660M and that would be only £652.

 

I didn't say to take the screen apart, I said to try the motherboard connector end first, then try the screen end connector next. None of that involves taking screen apart.

Your suggestion to take the touch bar and find the wide cable coming from the screen is identical to my suggestion to check the motherboard screen cable connection first.

Both ends can come loose.

On the laptop I'm typing on right now, I had to reattach the screen end of the cable and replace the clear tape holding it there.

 

Thanks for the tips guys - could you describe what I need to do in a little more detail? Meaning how to lift the touch bar and how to access the MB.

 

I just got my ge60 but can't figure out how to get this bottom panel off, I removed 4 screws but still feels like it is on there fairly well.

Any ideas?

 

there should be a screw under the void warranty sticker.

 

appropriately placed sticker

 

Oh, sorry, misunderstood

 

xMAR99 - do you know how to access the LCD cables?

 

Unfortunately, I have no GE series notebook,but I'm positive that its under the S-bar/quick buttons. If you remove that, you'll find the cable coming from the screen.

 

yeah I'm wondering exactly how I would do that.

Update - it appears to be an issue with some component near the front right of the machine. What's located over there? The GPU? When I apply pressure or tap in that area when the a problem arises, it flickers in and out. It'd make since if its was the NVIDIA card, as that would explain why it only happens during/after I'm gaming. Could it be a connection problem with that? Isn't that soldered on though?

Here's a video of the issue:

PC problem - YouTube

What would be causing that?!

Yeah I'm going to RMA the thing. Dont want to risk voiding warranty when I have a backup PC.

 

It's probably the GPU - don't know exactly what's up but it's probably (hopefully) just driver problems.

 

Don't think its a driver problem, looks like a hardware issue
RMA is the best thing to do right now

 

Yeah I don't know how it could possibly be a driver considering the effect that pressing down on the palm rest has.

 

I'm going to guess loose video cable, sometimes you can press seemingly unrelated parts of the computer to get this kind of color change.
Push up front and the plastic case flex jiggles the left screen hinge where the video cable connects

 

I think that's what it is. Just played D3 for like an hour without using my cooling pad (upon which the laptop sits at an angle with most of its weight pushing forward upon two flip-up stoppers, both about 2 inches in from the sides) and the problem didn't arise) and the problem never showed up.

Now I'm questioning whether I should bother sending it in - but if it's already loose it can only get worse right?

Aside from this problem - pretty happy with the GE60. For those asking about heat - I've never gotten higher than like 77C with the turbo fan on (which is surprisingly quiet when gaming)

 

I just took the bottom off and took a look at what's under the right-side palmrest, and it doesn't look like the chipset reaches that far. No connectors or cables at least that I can see. The bottom removable panel was extremely thin and there are no cushions between the heat pipes and the panel, like on the GE70 XoticPC video. It looks like most of the cables and connectors are on the left side.

Added an SSD while the panel was off. Stock HDD vs 256GB Crucial M4.

Spoiler

 

So I installed an OCZ Nocti mSATA SSD in this beast today, and my god, does this run SOOOOOO much better. Also did a fresh install of Windows, good times.

 

Because it's hilarious, never personally seen a laptop GPU go that low before -



Computer sitting idle in my workspace for about 4 hours yesterday while I was on Duty. One benefit of working on electronics in the military is extreme amounts of AC in your workspace.

On the note of temperatures, I don't think the thermal paste that came with mine was totally baked in. Been noticing a decline in my temperatures of the last few days. An hour long session of Witcher 2 never peaked 75c.

 

Is your computer completely stock? Did your reseller replace the paste?

Hmm. Well, now we know Optimus really can do wonders for power draw and heat, haha.

I need to go hunt Ken down and order this machine. Then I can do horrific things to it and then we can compare cold-peens.

Because, you see, I don't benchmark. I coldmark.

 

I like your thinking

 

You've seen what I've done to my poor GX660R, right?

And owners, a favor to ask. Would you guys mind opening up the access panel and taking some good photos of the heatsinks? From the GenTech video, it doesn't look like there's much room for Moar Coppah™.

 

Have anyone tested this method for further overclocking a GPU?

[M14x R2] - VBIOS mod for higher boost clocks - USERS FOR TESTING WANTED

 

Mines stock. Bought it from NewEgg.

 

something i noticed yesterday and was wondering if anyone else sees the same problem...

i was playing d3, and noticed that whenever i start playing, the video stutters a lot... not while logging in or anything, but the first time something graphic intensive is happening, it starts to really lag. I tried to check my fps at that moment, but for some reason it showed 0 (stayed this way the whole time).

i haven't tried with any other game, but thought I'd ask the good folks here

thanks

 

the current patch of D3 killed the internal FPS reader apparently. If you use FRAPS you'll get an accurate reading.

I'm FAIRLY certain that the D3 stuttering is on the server side, and has nothing to do with your GPU/system.

 

does anyone know the difference between the GE60 0ND-042US and the GE60-047US?

the 047US doesn't seem to be available in the US, and the only canadian store to carry the 042 is newegg.ca

the 047 has much more vague product descriptions, in some stores it has terabyte hdds and other it has 750. I'm just trying to figure out what it is.

 

Has anyone successfully gotten the Intel Smart Response Technology (SSD Raid speedup caching code) to work on the GE60? I loaded a 24GB Intel SLC SSD into the slot on the bottom of the GE60. Intel RST recognizes the drive, but RAID / SRT isn't an option.
Any hints? Thanks - Rocket88

 

Do you seriously have to void your warranty to open the bottom panel?

 

Intel SRT is only officially supported on the hm77 chipset (on notebooks) and the GE60/70 has the hm76 chipset. If you figure out how to get it to work you'll be our hero

 

Ran the usual 3D benchmarks, both at stock clocks and overclocked using nVidia Inspector (Base clock +130MHz; Memory Clock +700MHz). Using the stock drivers on the MSI DVD (296.31). System was completely stable during testing - No artifacts, crashes, or unusual behavior. Max CPU temp was 88 C, GPU was 85 C; room temperature was 25 C. Turbo-Fan button was pressed. These new Kepler-based GPUs look impressive, especially with DX11.

Overclocking was performed only for stress testing and benchmarking - to check the performance, temperatures, and capability of the hardware. As with any computer, it would be unwise to game for long durations at these clocks. I have only used the stock drivers on the MSI DVD (296.31), and I only overclock while benchmarking. It is also my preference to use only official drivers - I personally will not use any modified drivers.

Unigine Heaven 3.0 (Stock Drivers 296.31; Stock Clocks + OC'd):

Spoiler

3DMark 11 (Stock Drivers 296.31; Stock Clocks + OC'd):

Spoiler

3DMark Vantage (Stock Drivers 296.31; Stock Clocks + OC'd):

Spoiler

3DMark 06 (Stock Drivers 296.31; Stock Clocks + OC'd):

Spoiler

 

I will test it again this weekend, I was going to OC with MSI Afterburner and check the temperature but Afterburnr wouldn't overclock, so I use nVidia Inspector instead but GPUz shows 0 degree on the GPU.

 

Bizarre, bizarre. No temperature monitoring programs seem to work, I take it?

 

I used GPU-Z's 'Log to File' while benchmarking. *.csv format.
This is at idle.

 

Hi guys, I own a MSI - GT780r and today when i booted my laptop and after the MSI logo shows up the next message appears:

Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Series v2.35
PXE - E61: Media test failure, check cable

PXE - M0F Existing PXE R0M

"Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key

, this happened when i took my laptop to a friends house. I wouldnt even let me acces the bios so i took it to a tecnician but surprisely when i booted the laptop there it worked well so he couldnt see the problem. An hour ago i brought the laptop back to my house and the same message appeared.

I dont know if its because of the movemente since its seems it fixed and got bugged when i moved the laptop from places. Now the same message appears and when i acces the bios and go to the boot option it says:

Boot option priority,
Boot option 1: P2 TSSTcopr CDDVWD TS - L633F
Boot option 2: Realtek PXE BO2 DOO1

And even though i change the options order, the message still appears. I dont know if there is any default boot option but i dont seem to find it.

Another message that appears when i boot the laptop is the next one:

Volume, Level: RIADO(stripe) 128kb 931gb Status:FAILED Bootable: NO

I really dont know what this means, hope you guys can help me. Thank you

 

Not much room in there, and the space between the heat pipes and the thin bottom panel is about 3/32". I'd like to see what you do with it.
While it was disassembled, I replaced the stock DVD drive with a HDD caddy. Getting the large stock faceplate on the caddy was a chore, but it fits and isn't loose.

*Photos Deleted.

 

Looks like your laptop is trying to boot off the network.
Just disable network booting
--> Put your hardrive before the "Realtek PXE BO2 DOO1" in the boot order.

 

xMAR99 answered your question about the PXE error.

Press Del at 1st boot screen to enter the bios.There you can set your boot order with the PXE realtek Lan last in the order.Save and Exit.

_____

Since you list your model as GT780r means it was shipped with 2 hard drives in a raid0 array.

Your array is broken and the PC can't boot.

If you no longer want a RAID array.

Or do this if changing from a hard disk raid array to a single SSD boot drive.

If you broke the array and changed each member disk to non raid you also need to reset the bios and reinstall Windows on a single disk with the bios set to AHCI.

To reset the bios you need to remove your hard drives from the notebook by opening the bottom.

First remove the AC power from the notebook and the battery.

Then looking into the bottom of the notebook find the red and black wires that connect to the motherboard near the fan.

Remove the red and black wire connector from the motherboard for a few minutes then put the connector back into it's connectior.

Without putting the bottom cover back on but with both hard drives removed plug the AC Power back it and power up.

Press Del at the 1st boot screen and enter the bios.

Reset your date and time,change the storage type from RAID to AHCI then save and exit and shut off and remove the AC power.

Now put the drive you are going to make a clean Windows installation on into the primary drive bay.The drive label will face up when in the primary P0 position on the SATA bus.

Again put the AC Power plug back in and power on while pressing Del.

In the bios check your boot order.

DVD
Boot Drive
PXE realtek lan

Save>exit>reboot with your Windows 7 USB or DVD installation disk in the notebook.

At the first screen press the F11key and choose the DVD or USB disk.

See this post for help doing a clean installation of Windows 7 x64 on a GT78x series

http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

BTW,this would have been better if posted in the GT780 Owers Lounge.

If all is working OK after the clean install of Windows 7 put the 2nd drive into the notebook and close up the bottom.

Go back into the bios and check the boot order again.

After booting back into Windows on your primary drive format the 2nd drive you just put back in.You can then use it for storage.

 

Oh, fantastic. I was expecting one or two photos. I got a photo gallery, haha.

Hrm. I think I could squeeze 4-6 heatsinks onto the CPU heatsink area, but with the shape of the GPU assemble I don' think I can do much. And if you're thinking 3/32'', I don't think I can get any on top of the heatpipes either.

I could try grinding down some of my blocks, but then I'd lose quite a bit of surface area. Sigh. I'll just have to have a go at it myself.