Presenting the All-New Intel 10th Gen MSI "GE66"!

GTX 680M, GTX 980M, GTX 1080. Like clockwork, each time prerelease people said "25% gains max", and then were blown away. They never learn.

We'll be seeing 40% rasterization gains easily, maybe more on the mobile side as the GPUs don't need their TDPs strangled as heavily as with Turing.

 

u might be right only time will tell

 

So what does a person do I could use a laptop now and I would like to game. Should I buy a cheaper 2060 then give it to my kid and upgrade when new gpu come out


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Yeah thats one way, you can also get a laptop now, then sell it once you've upgraded to a 30 series laptop.

 

Yeah thats why I expect at least a 40% bump in perf/watt. The actual increase could be higher if nvidia bumps up the tdp or balances the power consumption better like they did with the mobile Turing refresh that uses more efficient low voltage gddr6.

 

Does any one know how to remove the back plate one the ge66 I have all the screws out .

 

Can you not pry it off by starting with pressure around the rear, slowly popping clips free? That's how my four MSI laptops have been designed.

May need something flat you can slide in to get it going.

 

I got it off now trying to run the computer with just the igpu


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Anyone know how thick the thermal pads are on this unit? I have my new one and am about ready to open it up to possibly repaste and add another drive but want to repad it too when i have the heat sinks off and want to order the right sizes and have it ready to go before I do this...I am going to use Gelid Extreme for my paste too as its a little thicker paste and should be better suited for this heat sink design

 

Mine didn’t have pads they had paste on we everything

 

Hello!

Some one know what thickness of thermals pads to use instead of the thermal grease en VRM & vram & others?
I'm planning to buy a Ge66 and to repaste it, and I would like to get rid of k5-pro like compound

 

Yeah that was what I was referring to as well...would like to know the same.

 

Howdy all. With units shipping now did we confirm the 2070 super is maxp?

 

How is the cooling on these? with a 2070?

Performance wise compared to a GE75 how good is this? and it has a mux switch is that correct?

 

Yes, it is a Max-p.

 

The GPU stays pretty cool. The CPU, not so much. I haven't seen temps on the GPU break 70c with in game settings set to max. It generally stays in the upper 60's.

The temps on the CPU vary wildly. There's about a 20c difference in temps among the various CPU cores. With it set to max performance, and fans on auto, Core 2 is always the hottest at 95c. The others vary below that from upper 70's to upper 80's.

The MUX switch is only in the software I believe, but I haven't looked for it as I run everything on the 2070 Super.

I've never used a GE75, so I can't compare the two. My GE66 has the i7-10750, 32 gb RAM, and the 2070 super. I replaced a GT72 with a 980m.

 

What could be causing one core to run so hot. Is this an Intel issue or a bios driver issue. I’ve seen this mentioned a few times and a repaste isn’t helping so I’m curious what’s happening here


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When I first seen the cooling solution used on this laptop the GPU part looks fine, Its the CPU part that scared me to death. Only two of the heat pipes make it over the CPU and one shoots all the way across to the other side of the laptop. The one single dedicated CPU heatpipe just doesnt seem to cut it for me, it does not cover that much of the CPU, I dunno it seems lackluster on the CPU side to me, That was my first thought when seeing it. If you compare it to something like the Clevo, you can see what I mean. MSI has 1 and 1/2 heat pipes, compared to the botoom picture, CLEVO X170, which has 7. The Clevo on the bottom, the CPU is in the center of the picture that has the #1 on it if you enlarge the picture.

 

The 20C difference is very concerning. It sounds like either a bad paste job or insufficient pressure being applied on the heatsink where core 2 lies. Either way, I would take it apart and do a repaste and readjust the heatsink pressure. The differences in core temps typically shouldn't be more than 10C even in laptops with the tripod mounts.

 

Ok, let me clarify a little. I don't see a 20c difference between cores all the time. Usually, they are within 5-10c of each other. There are occasions where there is a 20c temp difference. The only time I had the bottom off was to add in a second SSD (and what a PITA it was getting it off!), all the screws were down tight. I have tried repasting yet>

I created a support ticket with MSI about the temps over a week ago. So far, I have gotten no response. I've been holding off on the repaste as I think that may void the warranty. I'm waiting on a response from them before I take that step.

 

Are you in the UK or US? In the UK I think it would void your warranty, but in the US you can repaste with nonconductive thermal paste and your device will remain under coverage. MSI confirmed this a while ago.

The warranty is also only voided if you repaste with something conductive like liquid metal and they have evidence that your modification caused any damage. Most user upgrades/modifications are actually protected under the Magnuson-Moss warranty act. Manufacturers can't just flippantly renege on repairing your devices unless they can definitively prove that you were the cause of the damages.

 

I'm in the US. I did get a response back from MSI about that, and you are correct. Repasting does not void the warranty unless you damage something while doing it.

 

No brand can void your warranty due to a repaste, or an SSD/HDD upgrade or replacement, or RAM upgrade/replacement, or even a display swap, as long as you dont bent it all, or scratch the motherboard and rip half the components, they will honour warranty.

Warranty void stickers are non binding be it the US or the EU.

 

I spoke to a person at MSI today. They said these temps are normal for an Intel 10th gen CPU, and that I shouldn't worry about it. It seems awfully hot to me, but they told me other laptops with this CPU run at the same temps.

 

When you said you experienced 20C spread in max core temps, was that in a situation where all cores were being utilized 100%(e.g. Prime95 AVX/AVX2 off) or does it occur when you do single threaded applications. If its the latter that's normal. If however you notice a 20C spread when 100% of your CPU is utilized then that would be an out of spec condition.

 

I was watching MobileTechReview's review of this, and Lisa mentioned the option to switch between Optimus and dGPU only mode. The GE66 has that? Can one of you owners confirm?

I hadn't seen anyone mention it.

 

even unade rocmbined stress test AIDA/Heaven the most i see is like 7-8 degrees on core 5 i thin which pisses me off....cause other than that all cores are low to mid 80s except that one but this is like te most extreme use case so i figured id let it be ias it doesnt affect normal use

 

Yeah, an 8C difference is normal and nothing to be concerned about. It's mostly due to the tripod mount heatsink used.

If you want to reduce the core differentials you will have to resort to lapping the heatsink and or using liquid metal. On my GS66 I was able to reduce the 10C core differential to only 5C by applying liquid metal. My issue was always cores 0,2,4 running 7-10C hotter than cores 1,3,5.

 

I have LM...i bought it that way... honestly cooling is not an issue it just that one core goes to 90 all others low 80s...again this is under full load both cpu/gpu....i thought bout tightening the heatsink again just to check but im not gonna mess with it it really does cool well and performs pretty good so ima leave it alone for now...i saw the same dman thing with my gs65 when i put ICD on it core 0 would hit 90 once settled under same test all other cores low 80s its always one damn core that messes my party up but under regular use gaming even hig cpu usage i never it 90 on either machine....so im pretty ok with both

 

It's also possible that the liquid metal has happened to have plated the copper around core 5. Hence leaving a sort of air gap causing poor heat transfer.

 

May be.....but im nt gonna touch and and im not sending it back...i have LM at home so say i could retouch it but honestly its not like a 10 degree gap or anything and since it literally at the worst case scenario i dont wan to totouch HID's paste job...they are supposed to be sealing it somehow not sure if foam dam or silicone or what so id rather not touch it since its been working fine...also this is an 8 core cpu so one out of 7 acting upa bit isnt total loss its not holding me back much really so....ill just learn to live with it til i dont.....next time im in the states for extende perior i might send it back to get i checked since i paid for extra warranty and all.....til then i get 21k FS score and games run smooth and gpu/cpu in the 70s so im fine with it

 

So two things. Plus one on the fragility of the case tabs. Snapped three removing the bottom cover. And I am very experienced in removal. Its a bad design.

Two. If you want to put a 2nd SSD in you will need two thermal pads. One should be thinner as there is a "step up" on the motherboard under the slot.

Have to drive 2 hours to the nearest microcenter to get the pads tommorow. Amazon can't deliver till monday.

Oh...the pads seems to be 4 mm thick? Never seen one that big so i have to double a 2mm...

 

This is oneeeeeee quiet thread.

 

yes i can verify there is an option under Dragon center to switch it to the dedicated GPU only. Its a software option and you have to reboot after you choose this and it will run on the Nvidia card exclusively.

 

any updates?

 

need some input...i updated with DDU to nvidia game ready driver 451.67. Safe mode, ect. When i switch back to hybrid graphics the orange light on the power button is still on 100% of the time which should indicate the Nvidia card is being used. It stays orange regardless if i use hybrid or discreet mode. Also i noticed when i am in discreet mode, i cannot change the brightness settings at all. When i switch and go back to hybrid mode though Dragon Center, i can change the brightness.....any ideas anyone?

 

Windows Graphics Settings:

Go into Windows Graphics Settings and make sure Dragon Center is set to run on the integrated GPU. Also do the same with your browser.

Nivida Control Panel:

Set global settings to integrated graphics in the Nvidia Control Panel, and set the discrete GPU for the applications you actually want to use it.

 

Sounds like what happened to me a few weeks ago when I installed 451.58, the DX12 Ultimate update. My light went orange and my laptop refused to use the intel graphics no matter what I did. I tried reinstalling both the Intel and Nvidia driver, different drivers, all of that. Nothing worked.

Just today I finally said forget it and reinstalled Windows 10, which solved the issue.

 

yeah i tried the steps that Werdmonkey suggested and nothing. I might just reinstall Windows and see how it goes. happen on a drivers update with me too when it worked no problem beforehand. Annoying...

But thanks everyone...

 

hows everyones GE66 running?

 

Mine is running well. I am tempted to do a repaste on it to see if I can reduce the core temp differential issue I'm experiencing, but I'm leery to do so because I've heard there is goop underneath where there traditionally would be thermal pads. Lol.

I set a custom voltage curve in Afterburner that seems to be working well. I'm actually very happy with the machine. The only thing I did not do is install thermal pads underneath the SSD's. I added a second one too. They don't seem to make contact with the motherboard, and I already have heatsinks mounted to the top of them.

 

The goop is just really viscous thermal paste. Nothing to be hesitant about. You can replace it with K5 pro.

https://www.amazon.com/viscous-ther...ds=K5+pro+thermal+paste&qid=1599533712&sr=8-5

 

Like a tank.I got my undervolt and custom voltage curve dialed in now I'm pretty sure I found the best possible performance with the lowest temps im gonna get.

One thing I found funny you guys might want to try out..I switched over from a cooling pad to just a regular aluminum laptop stand from amazon and since then im getting temps about 10 degrees lower then with the pad haha I still cant believe it.Never thought I'd see a gaming laptop running this cool.

 

Anyone with a GE66 2080 Super willing to share the vbios?

 

I tried uploading it from gpuz but it said its not supported.Im probably doing something wrong.If I figure it out i'll link it to you.

 

Crap gpuz didn't support it? It works for the Razer. You have the latest gpuz? Should be just clicking that arrow box and saving the file. Weird you are getting that error.

 

If I remember correctly I think I had the same issue before. I think if you have any overclocks on the GPU it won't let you upload. You have to reset the GPU to stock clock speeds first and then it should let you upload.

 

Yea It's definitely the latest and I just tried removing the OC and it's still giving the same errors...I'm surprised there isn't any on google.A lot of people have this 90w model.I wish I could put a 150w onto this thing..Im getting closer and closer to 10k time spy but I cant see it without a shunt mod.It took awhile but I've probably gone through and undervolted/maxed out every point on that afterburner curve to there highest stable clocks haha.

 

Anyone got their displays popped out when pulling the lid up? Mine did and its using some kind of adhesive. It doesn't have any screws holding the display in place. If it happens again I will take some pictures and upload it here.

 

Please post scores if you do decide to shunt mod. I'm genuinely curious to see how far you can push the RTX 2080 Super Max-Q in the GE66, especially since it seems you have heat pipes already running across the VRMs for cooling.

Here are what the scores look like on my GS66 with the RTX 2070 Super Max-Q that has been shunt modded to 115-125W. With the better cooling in the GE66 you should be able to push >125W pretty easily. You may want to disable Max-Q dynamic boost after you shunt mod it though, so you don't get any unexpected spikes in power.