I'm using stock pads and paste on GPU for the time being .. It idles at 50c (44 with cooler).
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Some people used paperclips or shims to solve their ATI 5870 heat issues but beware. Just be careful
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Wait, I read the post but I don't understand the paper clip thing. They put paper clips on the GPU Die instead of a flat piece of copper as shims??? Gives new meaning to GPU DIE. After reading this, I'm probably not going to use the shim I ordered, even though it's only .75mm thick. Wow, thanks for that LaptopNut. +1 Rep points for you.
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I would imagine that putting a copper shim on the inside DIE might work but I wonder if it will reduce the contact of the RAM to the heatsink slightly. -
Thanks for the link LaptopNut. Interesting procedure. I can see why it can put too much pressure on the die. I was concerned about this with the shim I am using but I don't think it's thick enough to put too much pressure on the die. It just basically fills the gap that was there before.
Ok, so on to my final mod to address this cooling debacle. I am finally pleased with the results. I got the shim I mentioned in an earlier post. It is a copper shim 20mmx20mm by .75mm thick.
DV2000 DV6000 DV9000 TX1000 Copper Pad Shim 2cmx2cm - eBay (item 220542814291 end time Jun-17-10 12:22:52 PDT)
What's great about this shim is that it is almost exactly the size as the surface area on the heatsink for the GPU. So I sanded it down on both sides with 600, then 1000 grit sandpaper (which made it a hair thinner), then placed paste on one side and mounted it to the heatsink. I also replaced the stock pads with the blue ones I mentioned in a previous post. I originally wanted to avoid using the shim but the gap is still there even when pressing down on the pads to compress them. I didn't try cutting the pads because the material is too delicate and I was afraid of messing them up.
So anyway, I put everything back together and ran the same tests as before. A 15 minute Furmark with stock clocks got me 86C max, and a 750/1100 OC got me a 94C Max on the same test. The OC temps are a bit higher than before when I removed the pads completely but they are still very acceptable. I was also playing Crysis Warhead for about 30 minutes with the GPU OC'd and it peaked at 87C. At least now I am keeping the GPU cool as well as the RAM.
I will run better tests today if I have time using HWinfo32 (thanks LaptopNut) and let you guys know my results.
Another note: Maybe I got a bad batch or something, but I really don't like MX-3 at all! I applied it twice during testing and both times it was really hard to spread (kept clumping) and I got horrible temps (GPU was running around 78 idle). Both times I took the heatsink off after applying the MX-3, I noticed that it did not spread at all, it just clumped up into little blotches all over the heatsink (leaving areas of the heatsink without paste).
I put on OCZ Freeze and never looked back. Not to mention Freeze costs $7 a tube and MX-3 was $20 (from Microcenter). -
BenLeonheart walk in see this wat do?
awesome.
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C'mon Ben, pull the trigger and get a GX640 already!
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BenLeonheart walk in see this wat do?
Posted this on another topic:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi/474857-msi-gx640-098us-review-29.html#post6273701
!
Only difference is that it might be a Cobra and not a GT anymore
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Cobras are nice...I'm not a big fan of American cars but that one is nice. Hey you live in Honduras? Do they have the Focus RS there? My friend back in Greece has one. 2.5 Litre Turbo FTW.
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BenLeonheart walk in see this wat do?
We have lots of Focus, but the only one I like is the SVT Focus...
I dont like the design... looks like a Tennis shoe haha!
BTW, Focus is american car >_>
lool
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I got rid of my ATI 5870 and am back using my GTX 285M now. I used MX3 paste on that and just applied a line of the paste across the middle of the DIE and closed the heatsink. I get idle temps of 39-42C and temps during gaming of 65-70C with temps maxing out after hours of intensive GTA IV of around 76-78C. The ATI GPU's use a smaller nm shrink process and have less wattage and heat so should be cooler. -
Interesting, maybe I'll try that tomorrow. I'm used to just spreading the paste. If it still clumps up, I think it's safe to assume I got a bad batch. Maybe I'll take up Arctic Cooling on their warranty. Thanks for that suggestion. +1 rep points for you.
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I thought that the MXM specification should ensure fitting cooler module with the card. Well it seems that I once again need to open my notebook, warranty or not, because my gx gets really hot on furmark( 106C + i think that the thermal sensor can't show more ). Also hwinfo32 shows me that the "MemIO" temperature is the hottest - but I am not sure if this is actually temperature sensor on memory or just memory controller or badly named by hwinfo. Anyone knows? The other two sensors shows relativly bearable temps.
Do you think that the height diference between the memories and cooler can be filled with MX-2 or is it more than 1mm? -
If your heatsink isn't making enough contact with the DIE then the paste won't work well of course but by the sounds of it, your shim will help. According to a report I read a few days ago, you should put thermal paste on both sides of the shim too. If you think about it, not only are you trying to close the gap of the microscopic holes between the heatsink and the DIE anymore, you are also trying to close the gap between the first side of the shim and the DIE as well as the other side of the shim to the heatsinks material. -
I am not sure what you mean about the height difference between the memories and cooler. -
Oh sorry, thats error. I ment size of the gap after removing the thermal pads - is it less than 1mm? People here are ordering 1mm pads so it should be.
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Nut, yes I used past on both sides of the shim. I was also thinking of maybe using some of that thermal epoxy instead of paste on the side that connects to the heatsink so it is more permanent and stable. What do you think?
Edit: damn it, I keep leaving the letter "e" out of the word paste. Thermal past! Duh. -
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Yeah, I've used the epoxy before in the past on some memory modules. Worked like a charm. Not sure of its heat transfer compared to regular paste but I'm sure it will be fine.
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Oh and one more thing I forgot to mention regarding cooling of the GPU. I'm sure you guys must have noticed that on the main cover the main vents for the GPU are covered with a small piece of thin plastic, kind of like tape. I removed this on mine. Those little vents are actually the same size as the CPU vents so they are a bit big to just leave uncovered. Luckily I had some of my old laptop casings and one of them had the same exact filter screen material that MSI uses to cover the CPU vents. I cut a little piece out to size and with some automotive-grade double sided tape, I fixed it to the GPU vents. Not sure why MSI covers this vent. It seems that if you leave it open it will allow more air into the chassis to cool the GPU. This should be especially helpful with a good laptop cooler.
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This is what I meant.
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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ -
I got rid of those on my machine.
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The reason those are there is to control airflow. If all the air is drawn in from right above the fan, then too little passes over the memory modules and hard drive.
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Nah, he removed them, just like death, i guess.
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moral hazard Notebook Nobel Laureate
I had that same plastic on my GT627, removed it. Anyone know why it's there?
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I can only assume that it's there to block the heat coming out of the heatsink and onto your lap.
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I guess death even removed that mesh, Oh death even removed some plastic from the back covers to give space to some holes
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The vents are kind of big to just leave uncovered. I'm afraid of something getting lodged in there, or even some bug making it's way inside and getting fried. LOL. I love all animals.
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! Where you from anyway ?
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Who me? NYC baby!
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Is it that full of creepy crawlies ?
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Yeah, except the creepy crawlies are called New Yorkers.
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You find new yorkers creeping into your laptop?
Dam im not going there in the future.
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BenLeonheart walk in see this wat do?
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lol...ben always has the best pictures
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I've never modded a laptop before and it looks a lot harder than fixing a desktop, but we'll see!
I'm going to try out the copper shims and use the arctic silver 5 thermal paste.
As I understand, you put just enough thermal paste to cover the GPU and shim(both sides), the less I use the better, so there's more space for the shim. Just to fill in the gap for a cooler laptop!
If it goes well, I'll do the same for my CPU!
Thanks
My MSI GX640-098US
Scheduled Arrival Date: 06/04/10 -
The CPU is fine, no shim needed. Arctic Silver is conductive so be careful.
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I wouldn't bother using Arctic Silver 5, as careful as you might be, why even bother with the risk when there are perfectly fine alternatives around.
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I get my laptop(GX640) a day early, so it comes today!!!
I'm going to get the arctic cooling MX-3 thermal Paste then. With the kind of games I'll be playing, I could use all the cooling I can get! To keep the GPU from burning and also to help the battery last a bit longer.
I guess I won't be needing a shim for the CPU then, thanks.
I'll just replace the thermal paste on the CPU to the MX-3!
I'm going to use that double sided tape to put under the keyboard. That's an easy way to fix the flexing!
When I get that all done... I would say "this laptop is by far the best bang for the buck out there for the size(15.4") and graphics card(ATI Radeon HD 5850)!" -
Maybe undervolting has a more wow-effect
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I would of got a cheaper laptop with a slower graphics card before I would undervolt my MSI GX640. -
Make sure to sand down the shim on both sides before installing. The shims are always really rough so sanding down with fine grit sandpaper will smooth the surface considerably. I also would advise against MX-3. I had a nightmare with it because it would not spread at all and just kept clumping up in little globs here and there. I may have gotten a bad batch though. I'm using Freeze right now and my temps are great.
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I'm gonna take the system apart this weekend to apply some thermal epoxy on the shim so I'm planning to write up a little tutorial. You'll get plenty of pics then
Thermal Past Upgrade...Worth it?
Discussion in 'MSI' started by kosti, May 10, 2010.