TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Hi, I am also in same situation. I am planing to use my Amex credit card extended warranty. Amex need repair quote from Manufacturer or Manufacturer authorized repair center. Any lights?

 

Edit: I contacted the third party OP customer service and they are helpless since out of warranty. The do not even contact the real OP customer service about my problem. They said they are only allowed to sent issues to OP customer service if laptop is under warranty. They have no information about authorized service centers for OP.
As a side note: Even though OP LP2 was an excellent laptop and great value for money paid, lack of brand value, repair service etc will become a pain later. So better go with Branded laptops for long term use.

 

is it normal that the right fan runs in slower rpm than the left one?
laptop: GK5CN6Z - i7 Gtx1060

 

Same... I opened up the back panel and saw my right fan no longer works, which is causing the laptop to thermal throttle quite a bit. I'd double check it's actually... spinning. I only had this laptop for 2.5 yrs. Time to try the RMA process :\

 

My PC started locking CPU to 0.79GHz some time after getting the bigger battery, around 30 something %. Is there any fix? I sent to RMA and they changed board but still continues

 

Hello,
While trying to change the battery, I accidentally pulled the flexible flat cable and connectors (both ends) off. See image. Does anyone know what the functionality of this cable? is it for something useless like the webcam? I can live without it.

In order to reconnect the cable I have to basically have to lift the entire board out. One of the screw is very tight and I don't want to force it. Please advise lol

 

I have had to do this multiple times lol the screw will come out just be sure to push down on the screwdriver well so you don’t strip out the screw. The board is strong you won’t break it but be sure to use the right size screwdriver and apply good downward force. Be patient and take your time. Also the ribbon cable connections are fragile so be gentle with it. You got this good luck!

 

Another screen flicker reporting in. I unplugged the computer from the wall while under load and it flickered ever since. Any way to fix this? I unplugged the battery, fresh installed windows, updated chipset and other drivers…. No luck. I really can’t believe this is a software issue

 

Try to play with screen brightness, like 0-10% until you can increase without flickers to 20%, then 0-10-20% until 30%,etc. I solved this problem 2 years ago and it still works fine and it helped a few people too. http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...gk5cq7z-gk5cp0z.815943/page-461#post-10975850

 

Has anyone replaced their display screen on a Mech 15 G2Rx (9750h/1660Ti) 144hz. My display has a solid blue line through the screen and I believe the display is failing.

 

im having the same issue as other people where it won't power on. when I plug it into the wall it shows charging but the light just blinks off when i try to power on, then light comes back on to charging. any fix for this?

 

I played around with it for half an hour with no luck. When I started I was able to get a stable image at 8% brightness but now I can no longer go above 5% without flickering….

Are there really no other solutions? I searched this thread for ages and found no other potential fixes.

Does anyone know how much it would cost for Overpowered to fix it now that it’s out of warranty?

Thanks!

 

Generally, there are need to replace some $1 DC-DC chip and it must help, but idk have you that type service around you or motherboard replacers only.

Or just buy an external monitor, if you don't need portability.

 

Has anyone figured out a source for parts? My son's Walmart OP 15+ with the i7 had some kind of issue that caused the battery to just about explode inside the case. I guess from the heat. As others have recently mentioned, it will turn on but then shuts off and there's a lot of coil whine. Wondering if the motherboard needs to be replaced. Hate to give up on it and throw it out, but it's not functioning and out of warranty.

 

Does anyone have a Throttlestop 9.4 "performance profile" they could share for op 15 8750h/1060?

Updated from 8.7 and dont know/understand some of the settings that were changed, leading to me unable to replicate similar performance I was getting (constant 3.9mhz, under 90c, no bsod/stable, cb15 1250+)

I'm encountering constant yellow "EDP other" on cpu, gpu, and ring on idle, inconsistent clock speeds and flashes to red edp other while under load (bench test, heavy gaming).

At a lost as I have tried my previous settings and tried some of the old ones posted here to no avail.

 

Hi, abushwookie:

This likely won't be much help to you, but here goes anyway -

Don't know about TStop 9.4 ... i'm running 9.3, and for the past year or so i've locked my OP-LP2's i7-8750h CPU to 2.8 GHz max across all cores and called it a day.

I don't play around with max performance profiles anymore, cuz a couple years ago it benchmarked incredibly well on Cinebench R20, Geekbench 5, etc. when undervolted w/TStop at -1.25 mV core & cache, with very manageable max temps. Even set a couple of records.

Then sanity and a dose of realism set in.

Nowadays it runs all my games just fine at 2.8GHz on all cores, nice and cool - no CPU core ever goes above 72°C, GPU never goes above 68°C. It gets perfectly acceptable frame rates on the GTX-1060 GPU (1920x1080).

- Trev

 

Hi, i was playing game for about 30minutes then the whole laptop froze, so i have no choice but to force shutdown (no bluescreen either).
Then i reboot up my laptop and found that my GPU is having code 43 error...
I tried DDU, reinstall old driver and clean install Windows but it still gives me code 43...
What should I do? Does that means my gpu or the vram is broken?

Laptop: GK5CN6Z i7-8750H GTX1060

 

Hi low0915 -

I've never seen that error on my laptop (same one as yours), but after doing a little checking on the web, I found that error could be due to the GTX-1060 GPU overheating. Try blowing any dust out of the laptop, especially around the 2 fan intake and exhaust ports, with a can of compressed air. There are 2 fans, one on each side of of the laptop, at the rear corners. Might be worth a shot. If the error persists, try unscrewing the base of your laptop and really give the insides a thorough cleaning with compressed air.

https://windowsreport.com/windows-10-error-code-43-video-card/

Hope this helps!

- Trev

 

I'm always aware of the dust and cleaning it times to times.
Also done repasting and blowing dust with heatsink taken off after the problem occurred. Still cant fix it. I'm assuming my gpu or vram is dead.
Sometime the whole laptop crashed/freezed when i try to re-enable gpu in the device manager.

 

Sorry to hear - that's what I was dreading, but didn't want to mention. Of course, you can still get by with the integrated intel UHD 630 graphics, which is still good enough for streaming full HD video, and even some light gaming.

- Trev

 

If anyone else has an issue with booting Linux kernel 5.14.2 on a Tongfang GK5CP0Z, then please join in at:

- https://bugzilla.opensuse.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1190608
- https://www.reddit.com/r/openSUSE/comments/ppyfcd/optimus_laptop_hangs_on_boot_after_yesterdays/
- https://forums.opensuse.org/showthr...boot-after-updating-kernel-Kernel-to-5-14-2-1

notable message before boot freeze:
“xhci_hcd: can't change power state from D3cold to D0 (config space inaccessible)“

 

I fixed my keyboard issue with the
The issue was the keyboard backlighting and functionality would stop out of nowhere. This would also cause a BSOD or the laptop would register all the keys being pressed at the same time, essentially locking you out of using the keyboard. To solve this initially I would unplug the battery from the motherboard and that worked for awhile, then I tried unplugged and replugging the keyboard cable into the motherboard. These would on work for a time. Other's on this forum mentioned that they replaced their keyboard cable so that's what I set off to do.

I bought:
40 Pins 0.5mm Pitch 150mm FPC FFC Flexible Ribbon Cable for LCD TV Car Audio DVD Player Laptop 6Pcs (A Type)
as well as a new precision screwdriver set because the screws in this laptop are prone to stripping

I followed a few youtube videos below:


https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1VC4y1W7GR

I ended up removing the heatsink, battery, and motherboard in order to get to the keyboard ribbon cable. Looking back removing the battery wasn't necessary.

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone having similar issues with their keyboard. I'll update this if anymore issues arise.

 

This is going to be a longshot but does anyone have a PDF of the user manual for the OP LP2? I need it to get reimbursed for insurance purposes. I found the LP3 manual but I'm hoping to get the exact one. Thanks.

 

UPDATE: My screen randomly started working at full brightness today with no flickering. I have no clue how it fixed itself but I'm crossing my fingers it holds.

 

FYI to anyone still listening:

Windows 11 has been running flawlessly on my LP2 with 8750 and 1060.

Limiting to 2.8ghz and undervolting in throttle stop has made this computer MUCH more pleasant to use. The fans rarely kick on and they are relatively quiet even gaming.

Now that the flickering fixed itself, I will NEVER be removing the power cord while the computer is running again. That was a nightmare.

 

Thanks! Been considering updating to Windows 11 but hesitating. Any issues at all? Graphics card? Drivers?

Please report back in a few days

 

Hey all, see my previous posts pg. 507/8 and before.

I never got around to selling my parts, I just put the stuff in the closet and today when I was cleaning out my closet, I found this dust bucket.

I completely tore it down to the studs, put it all back together piece by piece, perfectly, and what do you know..... Same problem still existed.....

 

http://ebay.us/5qCW80?cmpnId=5338273189

Postings of parts if you want to buy in the USA. Happy to ship to someone on here if you don't want to use ebay.

Starting bid at $75
Buy now at $250

Includes: Keyboard case, screen, motherboard (needs testing, might have damage from heat sink removal), all boards (wifi, usb, other etc), 16gb ram x2, 4gb ram x2 (from iMac2015), big battery, small stock battery, charger and charger cord, fans x2, and all ribbon cables.

Does NOT includes: HD, SSD, Heatsinks / pipes, working os/computer does not work as is.

 

Does anyone have a working download link for the Fan Manager from a few years back? Or maybe a newer method of manual fan control? It was originally posted on Page 388:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/tongfang-gk5cn5z-gk5cn6z-gk5cq7z-gk5cp0z.815943/page-388