TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

First time posting, I've just purchased the CyberpowerPC version of the laptop, one that I've noticed is that the back panel is made from really cheap plastic, I've broken some hinges just from unscrewing the panel.

I've managed to install a Xubuntu image and it runs ok, except when you try to shut down/suspend but you'd have to modify some stuff in grub. Also the touchpad is not working and it's an Acer model which is known for having issues (there's a fix, just google it). The easiest way to fix it is to check the BIOS settings except that Cyberpower doesn't have such settings.

Also the keyboard lighting firmware is absolute dogshit, there isn't many options in the BIOS so I just ended up turning it off because I don't like RGB. Also I haven't found any way to turn off that RGB strip in front of the laptop.

The keyboard is extremely loud so I'd suggest removing that metal bar inside the switches. Oh and to my surprise the switches are even lubed.

If possible I wouldn't buy a model with a 2.5' drive included because there's already 2 m2 slots and the extra space is enough to get a big battery upgrade.

 

Not sure what part of the laptop you are referring to... But perhaps you could post a picture? If I get this laptop, it would be nice to know what to look out for. And be extra careful around. Unfortunately your description of ('hinges?') doesn't make sense to me. Because the only hinge I am aware of is the display hinge. Which I was assuming you don't need to touch, in order to remove that plastic back panel piece.

If you would not mind, can you post here? It would also be nice to know this (for linux / ubuntu).

Indeed. It has just occured to me (with your comment here), that Tongfang, the ODM who are also making these BIOS updates might not be aware yet of this matter. That we need to get their attention somehow, as it's a real problem that users need unlocks / included there in a future BIOS... Just not sure how we can do that (or make other BIOS requests). :/

My suggestion would be to open up the laptop, and either disconnect it's little connector from the pcb. Thus unplugging it.... because indeed, it is almost entirely useless.

People have suggested that multiple times. However the first person to do that here commented that after the mod, the keys felt either too loose, or too mushy for their taste. So If you do that mod, perhaps the tactile feeling still may not feel right to you? This is my own concern anyhow.

Not wishing to be a broken record... but the other way would be to replace the keyboard entirely with this 'v2' one. (it's 59 euros including the international shipping).

http://www.pcw.fr/shop/non-retro-eclaire-1691.html

 

But I think that the battery upgrade will not be compatible with our pcs. It will be an almost identical pc but with a different internal layout for using beyyer the sata space.

Maybe I am wrong but I think that I read that somewhere

 

This is also something else very interesting to us. So please come back to let us know the source of that information, if you can indeed find it again. Many thanks.

 

I'm still not able to get SB running. I did what @HaRe$ described, in order: Uninstalling HD audio driver through device manager (it prompted for a restart straight away, so I did), had no SB software installed at the present. The PC restarted, got the notification that the HD audio driver has been reinstalled and is working. Now this is where I had a bit of a confusion. I went onto my PCS account to see the provided software for SB, downloaded the zip, had 2 files in it, which were:


Now, when I click on "SPKEQ_TF_PCAPP_US_1_00_13" it seems to load for a few seconds, then nothing happens. The other one runs the installer just fine, but at this point I still have no SB software on my PC. I went to download a SB3 installer off the net, after I install it....
Message 1:

Message 2, right after I click "Yes":


I restarted several times since but it doesn't seem to matter. Anyone else experience similar issues?

 

Sorry for interrupting this conversation you are having. I just wanted to point out a general approach which might help you find any error message:

* If the installer is encountering a silent error, then usually it will be writing a log file to ~/AppData/Local/Temp/ ---> open in explorer --> sort files by date modified, newest at the top. Then you will be able to identify that log file

* If that doesn't work, you can target the installer with the program 'Process Monitor.exe' (from sysinternals). And filter the output of that program to show file IO operations. Or other types of operations. To delve deeper.

* If the installer(s), both of them, did not write any obvious error messages in their logs then... i would recommend to look at the Windows Sounds Dialog, where your realtek devices are listed, because updates of Win10 keeps resetting audio devices after updates, and any options you would have set up yourself (for speakers configuration, etc), tend to get wiped out after windows update. Although I wasn't paying enough attention to your problem, and gather that is may not be your specific issue.

 

Thank you for the ideas. Unfortunately, when I try to run the app it doesn't leave any traces in Temp and it doesn't show up in Process Monitor either. I have no clue what it could be.

 

They are probably not called hinges, but it's those little plastic edges that puts the cover in place without having to screw in anything.

Also: https://askubuntu.com/questions/764568/ubuntu-16-04-hangs-on-shutdown-restart
That was also the main reason why I couldn't get a liveCD working when the charger is not plugged in but after changing the grub configuration everything is running smoothly.

 

@Jacob Hawkes
please, could you provide a changelog for the latest PCSpecialist bios/EC of Recoil II 1050Ti version?

thanks.

 

Hi, I'm new to this forum.
I've recently bought a Tongfang GKCN5Z from Raiontech (RaionBook GS5) without ssd and windows installed and I'll should receive it next week.
I'm gonna put a samsung 970 EVO or PRO but I've seen they heat up a lot so I'm considering to add a passive heatsink on it, do you think there is enought space for one like the one in the photo? Should be about 5mm thick. In alternative is it possible to connect the ssd to some metal part of the chassis using thermal pads?
And about the ssd which one would you buy? The EVO is 50€ cheaper but it seems to heats up more, have you any experience whith one of those ssds?

About the installation of windows I've searched for an official site with drivers but I haven't found one yet so is there any official site where I can download drivers, BIOS and preinstalled programs? Mine is the GTX1060 version with 60HZ panel.

Thanks in advance

 

@stesteste I personally have a Samsung 970 evo (not the pro version, mind you) installed and I have never experienced heat problems. With light tasks or idle its temp. does not go beyond 35 degrees, when gaming/doing heavy load work it does not increase further than 45 degrees absolute max. I'm not sure how big the differences are between 970 and 970 pro considering temperature, but I would recommend getting the 970 instead of the 970 pro unless you are really in need the extra power (for working with big databases or whatsoever). Because in domestic use you are simply not going to notice much difference .

 

Thanks, then I’ll definitely buy the EVO one because i don’t need the extra “power” of the pro. I was only afraid because I’ve seen a review on Amazon with a laptop’s chassis melted due to the heat of the 970 evo.
Are you using some type of heatsink/thermal pad or you just plugged in as it is?

 

Should be no issue on a fairly well cooled laptop like this Tongfang is. For example on the Razer Blade 15 2018, theres been stories of pcie nvme drives overheating and dying because the cooling isn't that great.

 

For the guy posting that weird wavy low brightness pic, yeah that's exactly what I meant before by the Innolux/Chi Mei 60hz panel having "periodic low brightness issues".

I don't really go super low brightness all that often and funnily enough for me it doesn't actually happen all the time either (hence "periodic") so I'm just gonna continue slumming it with the 60hz panel.

But yeah, again I repeat this to folks aiming to get the best screen for the GK5CN: Plump for the LG 144hz panel as its just better spec wise (and not just because of the refresh rate either).

 

Nice to hear that.

About drivers, where do you download yours?

 

To answer your previous question: I've just plugged it in without any heatsink. I installed my pc just like you are going to install yours: I added no M2 or HDD to my setup and installed Windows from an USB. I could find all drivers at Driveridentifier. They provide a neat tool that collects all relevant drivers from different manufacturers + version & file size information. After installing everything from there, my PC runs smoothly. I only downloaded the Game Center from Mechrevo's site. Driver for the SSD can be found on the Samsung website, can recommend to get that as well.

 

There will be no bigger battery from tongfang. XMG said that a lot of time ago.

Also i have this display problem and it is very common. I send my laptop in RMA hoping they will fix this issue replacing the display but i it's quite a pipe dream

 

Perfect, thank you for your help!

 

It's not really a major issue because I just have to increase and decrease back light to temporary fix it but I'm afraid that could become permanent in the future. Yeah I thought the 144Hz was the main difference and I didn't needed it but now...

I guess I will too but the thing is I will be without computer during RMA.

Also I have some coil whine now... even at idle, on AC or battery, with everything unplugged,...
I really like this computer but it hurts my ears!

 

Which Thermal paste to use? Mine got 93c with stock paste.

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It's mad how much the paste matters. I ordered mine with the arctic paste and it's decent but for best results get the paste the boys been mentioning recently if you want value for you money

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Yeah.. I was thinking about Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut.. but which paste them boys using?

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Gelid GC Extreme all the way, have tried nearly a dozen or so during my bitcoin mining days and gelid seemed to be the most consistent top performer. Major plus is that its not conductive and because its less viscous then other compounds you dont need to get the thickness perfect just as much, as any excess just overflows. It also doesnt tend to get air bubles like some other compounds.

 

Thx mate! Gonna order it right now

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So I received my Recoil 2 from PCS today.

Installed my own SSD's, booted up, got everything setup just fine. Sound Blaster installed, 144hz working.

I proceed to install aida64 extreme and heaven unigine for a combined load stress test. Here's where I run into trouble.
The moment I push Start on AIDA, CPU util shoots up to 100% but CPU runs at 2.2-2.4ghz. no power or thermal throttle flags are raised.

Temps around 60c CPU/GPU, CPU only takes 27w power at most while the GPU gulps 72w.

I'm really worried now as I see everyone else hit 3.3 or so stock under combined load..

During TSbench, CPU boosts to 3.9ghz
During Heaven, CPU boosts to 3.9ghz
During Heaven plus AIDA it's stuck at 2.4ghz

Help!

 

Try using ThrottleStop and tweak some settings. I had 712 in cinebench and when i tweaked in ThrottleStop i have now like 950 still not enough but it's a little better

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if you properly tweak it you get around 1200, can give you my settings if you want

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Would be very nice!

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I had set the CPU and cache offset voltage to -125.0mV so I thought I had messed something up. So, I rebooted and made sure Throttlestop didn't start and I'm still getting the same result.

 

Yep, I averaged 1050-1100 in CB easy even back when I was on the base BIOS.

Then again, I was Kryo pasted from the shop (and hooked up to a 180w adapter) so it might be just that.

 

Yeah that's ok. Phoenix is going to share his settings try using that and see the results.

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Where did u get that 180w adapter?

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27w + 72w = 99 watts

Sounds like some type of a power limit to me. Because it cannot go beyond 100w combined. Maybe update the BIOS and the EC firmware? There are some pretty detailed instructions how to do it a few pages back.

 

@Makikou I've had a similar issue after I upgraded my bios, no matter what I tried my CPU wouldnt get past 25w tdp, with temps hitting 90s under small loads. Eventually after trying everything I reset the bios (even though all the settings looked correct) and got all my performance back. Now it will score 1200+ CB, temps sit where they were prior to bios upgrade (70s), so I guess some setting from the old bios had upset the new bios.

 

Oh! Good tip, i'll need to try this. Just reset all settings from bios itself?

 

So as I promised my settings are:
OTP: Low (you can only set this in the Mechrevo BIOS)
Core -210mV
Cache -125mV
Turbo boost power max 44W
Turbo boost short power max 70W
Multiplier: 41 (main ThrottleStop screen)

Before you do any of these I suggest you load optimised defaults in the BIOS, save, and next time the computer starts enter the BIOS again to select Low OTP(if available). Then proceed with ThrottleStop. To change Turbo boost wattage values I use Intel XTU. Hope this helps with the low performance problems. Also remember guys, you get a massive performance drop while on battery so always benchmark on AC power.



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Yep, there should be an option to reset to optimised defaults. That fixed my issue, but if yours still persists I would try repasting next.

 

Reseted to optimised defaults. No dice. Turns out my PL1 hits 35w limit at 65c CPU temp..

and of course, PCS bios does not have the OTP setting.

 

could you test your cpu with passmark performancetest v9.0?

 

So yeah, this is going well.

PCS 1.04 has no OTP switch so I can't try it. If I flash, i void warranty.

Computer limits PL1 + PL2 to 35w...



Also it's taken over 24hrs to respond to a ticket already.. How promising.

 

Also check your throttlestop TPL screen, as that was previously limiting performance for me, my settings in the screenshot. If that doesnt solve it I would consider going up to BIOS 1.1, and downgrading to 1.04 in case of an RMA (I think someone here said it works fine, havent tried it myself).

 

I checked TPL screen. I even tried to remove clamp and increased power long and short limits to 65/76 without any difference in benchmark.

What a disappointment. Sent a return & refund request to PCS since this might just as well be un-useable

 

For me I believe it was the speedshift that caused the limiting, however mine only occurred during particular scenarios where GPU was also active...Seems a shame to return it, the hardware is definitely capable of maxing out the CPU, something on the firmware / software side is causing the limit.

 

I reinstalled windows. Windows is finished installing but there are no drivers installed.. i have a usb stick with drivers. Touchpad doesn't work but when i want to instal the driver it says it's not the correct driver.. same as for the wifi.. i couldn't set up wifi in the windows installer.. any ideas?

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When I reinstalled I downloaded the latest intel wifi driver from intel site, installed it and then windows update finished the rest (minus a few things like gaming centre, sd card, etc). Touchpad is a Precision one so driver should be built into windows. One thing to note is that if you double tap the little led light in top left corner it disables / enables the touchpad, which means that sometimes you can accidentally stop it from working (although its very useful when you have to type stuff, as this touchpad has no palm detection at all).

 

My touchpad driver on the usb is a synaptics driver.. but ok so its normal that u have to instal the wifi driver when ur done setting up windows? I had a Clevo P950HP6 and if i reinstalled windows the touchpad and wifi just worked without installing the drivers.

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Some wifi drivers are built in onto Windows libraries, but I find more recent chipsets or non intel ones you generally need to download. Also, I dont think there is a synaptic's touchpad on these... Would be good if I was wrong though, as Synaptic ones have great drivers.

 

You can probably use the Intel Software Updater tool thingy.... to update the intel wifi driver for you. It's the same program that checks for (and downloads / updates) the Intel iGPU graphics.

 

Found it btw i had to install the Intel Serial IO driver and after that the touchpad worked lol

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Been nearly 48 hours now from my first ticket to PCS and no reply has been given.

I hope no one buys from this reseller anymore, selling a laptop with a bios that throttles it well below 3ghz while XMG version runs at 3.5 out of box..
Actually mine throttles well below base clock at 1.9 - 2.0ghz so..

DO NOT buy from PCS because this is what you get:

 

According to this you should be able to flash up to mechrevo and back down again ( TONGFANG GK5CN5Z and TONGFANG GK5CN6Z)
I dont think you will get a quick response from PCS as if the limiting is in the bios then they'd need to get a new Bios from TongFang, add their PCS customization to it and then go through the whole QA process before releasing an update, - all of that takes time.
Not sure whether anyone has a copy of original PCS bios as that did not throttle anything for me, but the battery life was lower than with Mechrevo.
Someone else out here had a copy of XMG bios, which is another option.