TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

I'd say your machine likely has a heatsink mounting or thermal paste issue, as this doesn't seems typical from my experience or others I've read about. Neither of the machines I have here, 15+ or 17+, have come close to thermal throttling. My guess is that a re-paste would fix the issue, but you may want to just exchange it and hope you have better luck with a different machine.

 

Thanks for the swift reply.
Yes I've tried that exact setup as well. I've been screwing around with this for days now and I feel like I've tried every combination of variables possible!

As far as heatsink mounting, is there any way to fix this? Thermal paste will be fixed fairly soon but I feel like poor factory paste application wouldn't affect performance quite this much. I've already messed with so much software and bios and I've removed the warranty sticker, would they still honor an exchange?

 

Just speculating, but it could be something as simple as the heatsink screws not being tightened down evenly. As far as an exchange, I'd be surprised if the Walmart rep even opened the box, especially considering the time of year.

 

Sry i copied the wrong link but it's now fixed. I know you're done, but just in case: see page 109. or the correct link directly.

 

Yeah you were having a fecal hemorrhage there for awhile lol. I could not figure out what was going on! Turns out your machine was configured to run on a 150w PSU..

I wish mine was the same so I could have addressed it.

 

My guess is you have gone so far down a rabbit hole by reading posts on here and not really understanding exactly everything you have done and why that you have something conflicting somewhere in your setup. Don't take this the wrong way... not trying to be mean. I would start over with a total fresh install of windows. Follow the instructions in this thread exactly as written...
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/nbr-windows-10-clean-installation-guide.781178/

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

No offence taken, I understand what you mean. I'm Already on my 3rd fresh install of windows using that exact method. In my exploration looking for the root of the problem I refreshed windows a few times to make sure I wasn't getting anything conflicting. Before I messed with anything I made sure to fully understand what I was doing and how it would affect the system. I don't think I've done any of the steps wrong and I've double checked absolutely everything. I just don't understand why I'm getting such high temps!

 

Are you undervolting with a - value or is it a + value ? I'm running -0.125V

 

" I've undervolted cores and cache by 0.0135 with throttlestop and XTU"

also check when you reboot that the values stick... I've seen XTU value's sometimes stick on reboot and sometimes revert back to factory.

 

I have also seen XTU put itself into windows in various ways that even when you're not loading it it will conflict with Throttlestop and cause issues.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

Very good point.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

well i just tested real quick using the stock 0.000V and got thermalling on core 0 and 2 and even went and tried the +.010V and it was thermaling hard... the -0.125V shows no thermalling , only current limit and power limit. I'm happy where my machine is at the moment.

 

I don't want to change anything yet but how can I check what adaptor mine is set to run with?

 

Thanks for the tip! I definitely made sure I was undervolted ( -0.135 ) before every benchmark and fps test. I used HWiNFO64 to check the voltages each time. I also did not have XTU and Throttlestop installed at the same time just in case they interacted. Both were on separate fresh wipes of windows.

I went ahead and started the walmart replacement process to make sure I get a good replacement before their stock runs out. I'm hoping I'll get lucky with thermals on the next chassis. Thanks for the help guys!

 

There’s nothing you can do besides getting different RAM. The Crucial Ballistix 2666 2x8GB sticks I tried did not want to run at 2666 on both a Dell 7567 and OP 15+. So I returned them and am now running Kingston Hyper X Impact 2666 CL15 at full speed on my OP 15+.

 

What is the purpose of a separate EC and BIOS flash? Walmart OP does not have them separate. I was able to unhide menus many many options hidden in the Aptio bios, like Advanced CPU settings etc. The only problem I am having is flashing the modified bios some security maybe built in or needs to be a CAP file?

I will have to check other forums like BiosMod to see what is up with this OP bios.

I have to go back and look now I have a feeling the rom I was looking at is the EC rom and there is another chip located somewhere else for the Bios rom. No wonder I was only getting a 256kb file read most bios today are at least 1024kb.

 

That’s awesome! I only wish I had time to seek out options like this.

Maybe someday we can get manufacturers to include a few things in their bios. Especially undervolting.

 

Let us know if you get it working, this would be awesome.

 

How did you set CL15? I tried my 3000Mhz CL16 ram on my 17" OP and it ran 2666mhz at CL18 which is obviously unacceptable. The lack of XMP support, or BIOS options or hidden menus really fails the BS test on these laptops IMO. The cooling on the 17" is great but Optimus, terrible software, and and wonky keyboard killed it for me. It's a shame too since I actually liked the $999 laptop otherwise.

 

The Kingston HyperX modules can run at 2666MHz CL15 in PnP mode without needing XMP.

 

Can anyone confirm if this battery will fit in this chassis.
https://cheap-laptop-batteries.com/laptop-battery/getac-b010-00-000005.htm

 

While replacing the 1TB HDD with an SSD I noticed the daughter card immediately adjacent to the 2.5" bay that has two of the USB ports and SD card reader had only a single screw installed, even though there are two screw holes on the other side of the daughter card. I know this because I had to remove that screw in order to get the existing HDD out. With only a single screw the daughter card visibly moves whenever you you insert a USB device...that's a recipe for disaster. I put a screw in the opposite screw hole on the other side of the daughter card and now it's very snug. I looked at the daughter card on the other site of the notebook (USB port, ethernet) and saw the same thing, and put an additional screw there as well.

This doesn't exactly instill confidence in the assembly of the notebook.

 

Sounds like it's safe to say "Your daughter's are now screwed."

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

Nop, almost positive that connector will not fit. The proper battery is https://cheap-laptop-batteries.com/laptop-battery/getac-gk5cn-00-13-4s1p-0.htm (we currently have the 3 cell version from factory, the 3s1p), which has been OOS for quite a while now.

If you can find a way to adapt it to mate to the mobo connector, sure, it can work, but not out of the box. It uses a very unique 13 pin connector I really haven't seen on any other battery.

 

I've done some minimal work with BIOS utils for APTIO / AMIBIOS before, let me know if I can be of assistance. Namely, I've used flashrom to capture the original BIOS on another system, inject a custom iPXE option ROM into it using MMTool and flash it back on using flashrom. The goal was to turn off the default NIC PXE boot to avoid the long DHCP timeout on every boot up and go with a software based solution instead (that was scriptable), which was proven out with this method. AMI has nice tools to help with BIOS modding, and there's a great community for it here as well: https://www.win-raid.com/f16-BIOS-Modding-Guides-and-Problems.html.

 

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated especially if we are dealing with a crippled bios.

 

Was it unacceptable in thinking that 3000mhz ram would work plug and play then when it didn’t, expect it to default to the lowest CL?

Even laptops with XMP (which only a handful have) rarely work with 3000mhz unless their profile is properly configured to use it.

I wish it was different! I’d have 3200mhz running in all of these!

 

This should be fairly easy with the tools they provide, as far as I can see. If I have some more time later, I will take one of the team and try flashing a modified BIOS with the overclocking advanced menu unlocked (which may give access to processor and memory OC'ing including XMP profiles). The options are all there but I'm not sure it's as easy as simply unlocking these features; the settings may do nothing (no ops) on this particular system. It looks like @pcfr33k also got up to this point and the problem is flashing it back on(?) I will see if I encounter the same problem. The risk is obviously bricking the thing...

 

Does anyone know of any skins that can fit snug on this chassis, because there doesnt seem to be any dedicated skins for it.

 

Having trouble redeeming downloadable content with code provided?

Try here instead : https://softwareoffer.intel.com/Redeem

Seems like the email template that Walmart sent out linked to the wrong site.

 

Is it ok to overclock 2400mhz ram to 2666mhz on a laptop?

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for this... was wondering why the code didn't work.

 

Here is what I have done to my 15+:

Added Patriot 16gb
Replaced SSD with WD Blue 3D NAND
Repasted w/ Kryonaut
Fresh Windows install
Tightened trackpad screws
Latest version of OC
Running on Gaming Mode (Fan), Equilibrium Mode (system)

Did not flash bios
Not sure how to confirm my system is set for 180w vs 150w

Thoughts? Anything else I should do?

 

Play some games?

 

Would also be interested in this... really don't like the OP logo and the rest of the lid is a fingerprint magnet.

 

I got my undervolt stable at around -160mv, but when i unplug the power it instantly crashes. I'm guessing on battery there is an additional undervolt that kicks in, (it happens faster than throttlestop change switch profiles) Does anyone know how to disable the automatic undervolt when on battery power?

The bios in this thing sucks, almost zero options. Even the cheapo walmart HP pavilion gaming laptop has more options.

 

I can confirm this stick will work with the gold key for dual channel at 2666 :

CRUCIAL MEMORY CT16G4SFD8266 16GB DDR4 2666MT/S CL19

I was able to pick it up for $75 after the 20% coupon and $30 back in Rakuten points offer. The $30 points offer is still valid and Rakuten seems to run the 20% coupon every other week.

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/thekeykey/product/210507/?sku=210507

 

Some performance numbers on CL19 2666 vs CL15 2666 ram for PUBG. This is with a Razer Blade 15 with an 8750h and a gtx 1070 - I am not sure if these results would be similar with the GTX 1060.

https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comments/8rnfde/update_on_ram_upgrade_from_2666_cl19_to_cl15/

16-06-2018, 19:27:51 TslGame.exe benchmark completed, 34280 frames rendered in 320.516 s

Average framerate : 106.9 FPS

Minimum framerate : 64.2 FPS

Maximum framerate : 144.5 FPS

1% low framerate : 51.0 FPS

0.1% low framerate : 36.4 FPS

16-06-2018, 19:47:38 TslGame.exe benchmark completed, 36311 frames rendered in 320.219 s

Average framerate : 113.3 FPS

Minimum framerate : 83.0 FPS

Maximum framerate : 143.6 FPS

1% low framerate : 52.9 FPS

0.1% low framerate : 37.2 FPS

 

What's the error you get?
"CPU does not have access to the bios space?" or something?
If so you have to use RU in a EFI boot prompt to manually disable bios lock
instructions for MSI were posted here but the same overall method applies to most other laptops.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-clear-cmos-and-prevent-common-issues.812372/

All you need is a FPTW64 backup of your bios (FPTW64.exe -d mybiosname.bin -bios)--the same one you manually edited with AMIBCP 5.02, or a fresh backup, whatever.
then download RU
http://ruexe.blogspot.com/
UEFItool and Universal IFR extractor. Get the hex code and offset for bios lock as explained, write it down, then disable it by booting into RU.

If Bios Guard (something totally different) is enabled however, I can't help you and I don't know if anyone else can, either (ask on win-raid).

read my above post.

 

Thanks .. I'm trying to get a version of FPT that will work. It was easy enough to read the BIOS and enable some options in AMIBCP but flashing it back is problematic as I get the notorious "secure flash rom verify fail" error (with basically any version of AFUDOS / AFUWIN). AFUDOS that includes the /GAN option (to bypass this check) is not compatible with this new APTIO 5. I don't know what else is locked down, but I should be able to tell shortly.

Flashrom doesn't even detect the DMI table / chipset / (so no EEPROM / flash device) so that route's a no go.

 

CMSE tools v12.r11 doesn't work (Consumer SKU)?
one of those should work around there.

Pretty sure one of these two will work.

• Intel CSME System Tools v12 r12 - (2018-12-29)
  For 300/C240-series systems which run CSME v12
• Intel CSME System Tools v11 r18 - (2018-12-29)
  For 100/200/Z370/H310C/X299/C400/C620-series systems which run CSME v11

 

Hello, following this thread for weeks. thank you for all especially @Bob of all trade. really learns a lot from you. I have both 15+ and 17+ on hand and compared them for 2 days. 15+ is lighter and smaller, my 17+ has bad light bleeding so decide to keep 15+.

Here's some questions related to make 15+ better.
1, which dual ram option is better?
- Ballistix Sport 2666hz cl16 8gb*2 $58.99*2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC5BVJV/ref=psdc_172500_t3_B01N2VUOBJ?th=1
- G.SKILL 2666hz cl18 $109.99 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232166&Description=ddr4 2666 sodimm&cm_re=ddr4_2666_sodimm-_-20-232-166-_-Product
- Kingston Technology HyperX cl15 2666hz seems better but cost about 40% more, $152 on neweg
- Patriot 16 gb cl19 2666hz, to make 15+ 32gb ram. is this a overkill? may do some CAD works besides gaming, is this necessary?

I heard Ballistix one can only run as 2400hz but according to Cruil eqn, this one (16*2000/2400=13.33) seems better than 2666 hz cl18 (18*2000/2666=13.5)
true latency (ns) = clock cycle time (ns) x number of clock cycles (CL)

2,Trying to repaste but there's 2 tiny screw on the cooling that I can't get them off. really tight, my screw driver cannot catch it. Any idea?

 

I just made my own, you can make it by using a sheet of vinyl and the protective sheets you get when the laptop is received. Then you can trim the edges to not have any overhang. This is quite easy to do with an exacto knife.

Also, this kit worked great. https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-2666MHz-PC4-21300-SODIMM-PV416G266C8S/dp/B01KBKIJY2 runs at 2666 CL 19 with the other stick no problems whatsoever.

Now I'm just waiting for batteries to come back in stock and for my NVMe SSDs to get here.

Edit: put wrong RAM link

 

V12 works and was able to detect and dump the flash. Thank you.

EDIT: I noticed the tutorial here ( https://www.win-raid.com/t3908f16-G...rror-BIOS-Lock-Asus-Other-Mod-BIOS-Flash.html) points to the same GUID ... I will try to follow these steps along with the tutorial you linked to and see what happens.

 

Wow that looks really nice, good job! Also, +1 for ticket to ride

 

Try a different screw driver would be my guess.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

Did you go over your power and turbo buttons ? I would have taken the 2 stickers off of the wrist desk first.

 

Ok very good news, it seems there is NO bios lock ... I checked the BIOS lock offset (seems like it's 0xA11 according to IFR extractor) w/ RU and it's set to 0x0. I still have to verify flashing with FPT will properly overwrite the existing BIOS and unlock the options I set. The only tricky part now is AMIBCP shows duplicate folder entries so I'm not sure how to unhide Advanced #2 that contains all the options.

See attachment. Basically, under Setup, you have Main, Advanced, Security, Boot, and Exit (as you see in the BIOS headings). All the good stuff is in the second Advanced menu, but I don't know how you're supposed to access it from the Root when "Advanced" already exists and goes to the default basic one. Any ideas @Falkentyne? We are getting close.

EDIT: Found a guide that will possibly do it: https://forums.mydigitallife.net/th...-advanced-menu-unlock-bonus-msr-unlock.54523/ ... stay tuned.

 

+1 on that stick working at 266 cl19 with stock stick.
Nice job on vinyl - too bad i threw away my protective covers.

Which SSDs did you end up going with?

 

@nimaim
I do not think that is going to work for the Tongfang.... I'm pretty sure It uses a different method.