TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

When I used the software code, it lets you pick one software title, not all of them. I picked PUBG. You can pick an additional title if you give them your contact info which I did not do.

 

Presently

Currently only one left! They may come back around, then again they may not.

 

I have no idea which one I used, I just picked the one that fit the best. I would strongly suggest getting the screw kit I mentioned above also. Always good to have spares just in case.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

OOS again

I ordered the VR Bundle on the 30th. The VR has shipped but still waiting for the laptop to change form order received to shipped.

I'm very excited to mess around with this.

I've been trying to think of ways to mask the logos. I was thinking of some cardstock to reduce the visibility of the lid logo and put a vinyl sticker over the cardstock. not sure about the top left KB logo though. Wish that could be chemically removed.

I have a spare m.2 960 evo to use when i get it, and will see how long i can go without buying new memory. Is it confirmed that the memory is the only way to get proper wattage to the cpu?

Would love to see some more structured guides for this laptop. aka step by step of the basics - checking the 150w vs 180w, RAM lists for better ram, performance tweaks. Maybe I will try to document this stuff when i get it. I still havent looked through all the links in the 1st post, maybe thats easy enough.

I hope the community continues to build around this laptop for both hw/sw tweaks and physical changes.

I may try to hackintosh this.

 

If you're running with a single 16GB memory stick then your laptop is stuck in single channel mode. This causes the problems (among others) that you mention. Buying and installing 2 x 8GB sticks will resolve most of these power limiting and throttling issues. I ordered 2 8GB sticks of Kingston HyperX Impact DDR4-2666, at CL15, and the laptop came alive. This is *almost* a cure-all. Almost.

 

So I am having issues this morning with my 15+. When I turn it on, the system does not power up. I see the green power light flashing, but it does not boot up. Any suggestions here? Or am I SOL. Thanks.

 

I believe I read somewhere that if it's on battery you need to hold down the power button for it to turn on. And on AC it power on just by pressing?

So maybe try holding the power down?

 

Yeah, it’s on ac power. I tried holding the power down but get the same flashing power light.

 

Has anyone else had sound issues when using wireless headsets? I am hearing static like noises occasionally on 2 different headsets.

 

Repasted with MX4, but found temp still too high hitting 80C on Gaming Profile. Changed it to Conductonaut, and now only hitting 60C. I imagine if I used Turbo button it wouldn't even hit 60C. Hopefully last time I need to open up case.

 

Throw that MX4 away! lol

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I had issues with my 15+ only playing out of a single channel of my headphones. Driver update fixed the issue though. Oh, and I had no static issues at all, sounded great. But I'd still suggest updating drivers if you haven't yet.

 

Don't tempt me, I might repaste custom loop. But that already has super low temps.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

Does anyone have this problem trying to download drivers directly from OP's support page? CC and manuals downloads quickly with no error.


Does Origin have a modded BIOS/CC other than just the 4 cell battery to achieve this?

 

Looking for some advise on this laptop. I'm typing on this laptop right now. I want to keep it but having gaming issues. I usually play Skyrim (yeah, its old but I enjoy it) and here and there Sniper Elite 4. I do not think these games are CPU intense. I have loaded up rivatuner to monitor the CPU temp and GPU temp during gaming. GPU temps are fine (70C at the most), but CPU temps have reached 98c. I have had the laptop shut off 3 times so far while gaming. I'm assuming the laptop is protecting itself. Resting CPU temps are around 38c to 40c. Here is what I have done so far...

1. Add second stick of memory
2. Updated the to the latest bios
3. Updated profile for laptop to recognize 180w power brick
4. Re-pasted the CPU - I used MX4, but i see above maybe not the best paste. Anyone have opinions on what paste to use? Yes, I have watched the thermal paste comparison youtube videos.
5. Fans set on gaming and performance set for equilibrium.
6. Under volt CPU - .120v

I have striped the majority of the screws around the CPU and GPU, so I ordered new screws and an extraction tool. I really want to keep this laptop, but if the laptop continues to shut off. I'll return it once the screws are replaced. Any ideas are appreciated. Also, I wonder what types of temps everyone is getting while gaming? Also, fans are are working as should. Thanks..

 

MX4 sucks... use Kryonaut

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I am aware of that. This issue was caused by my system being set for the 150 watt power supply not 180 that it shipped with. I applied the fix and now do not have the issue.

 

Pretty sure it is this battery mentioned on the first page of this thread - it is currently our of stock though. My guess is you might get 5 hours with this battery.

 

Feeling super happy with my OP 15+ after 3 days of ownership.
It's been very stable throughout all benchmarks even at -.135 undervolt.

I spent this afternoon installing the new BPX Pro 480 ssd. Feels even faster than before.
Bootup time is about 3 seconds faster.

And we have a fresh copy of Win 10 Pro installed and MS Office - all official even.

Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad, but let Windoze load all the drivers except Nvidia and the chipset.
Had to load the chipset drivers to clear up a 3 dangling devices in device manager.
Less cruft in the install as long as everything works correctly and it seems too.

Checkout the Crystal benchmark:

https://imgur.com/a/vgERYGw

I'm going to order a tube of heat sync grease and do a re-paste when the Kingston Hyper X 2x16gb memory comes in next week.

Is there a consensus on whether Kryonaut or Conductonaut yields better results?

 

Kryonaut is thermal paste. Conductonaut is liquid metal. Liquid metal has much higher thermal conductivity but is not straight forward in applying so is inheritedly more dangerous.

Google liquid metal laptop to see how to apply it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

I was having very similar problems with a very similar setup. Which BIOS are you running? I had the most recent Mechrevo BIOS and EC and could not solve the thermal issues. I then switched only the BIOS to OP BIOS 1.05 and it was night and day. Instantly solved all my thermal problems.

 

I did the math again today.

For the price I paid ($1,792 including tax) for the AW M15, I was able to buy
OP 15+ ($699 plus the original tax on my $999 purchase)
Another Gold Key 16 GB Ram stick
500 GB 970 Evo hard drive
Kryonaut Grease
Windows 10 Pro upgrade code
Nintendo Switch
Zelda BOTW
Civ 6 switch
Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy (for the family)
Hollow Knight
Celeste
Switch travel case
Switch protector case (plastic case, plus screen protector)
Pro Controller
Have almost $250 left over

Using the points from Best Buy that I got on my purchases, I'll be able to easily get a few more games

Crazy. And on top of it, it's performing just as good if not better than the AW. Despite getting some power throttle limiting, it runs games like a dream and the fans don't even come on as loud as the AW. The Kyronaut made a huge difference. My temps top out at 80C which is a huge improvement. Prior to the dual channel, it would barely hit 74, but that's because the CPU was not able to wind up. I'd like to figure out if I am getting the best performance, but honestly it's running great for my needs. I've gotten used to the keyboard and I am quite happy with the decision. Thanks again Bob!

 

Solid testimonial right there

 

Yeah, definitely a great deal on the OP 15+. BTW: How is the CIV 6 on the Switch? I have it on the PC.

 

I ordered the switch on Christmas Eve along with BOTW and Civ 6 and it was supposed to arrive last Friday but UPS has been short staffed and they didn't make it on the truck. Monday and Tuesday are UPS holidays so it should hopefully get delivered tomorrow. I've been playing Civ games since I was 11 and being able to truly have a portable experience is something I really look forward to. I know iOS just got the game recently, but I don't use a tablet anymore. I am hoping the Switch can handle all the different controls OK. Obviously PC is preferred. The OP15+ in dual channel handles it with ease...

I can report back on my opinion of the switch version. I'll PM you so as not to clog up this board.

 

I am very reluctant to mess with, or update the BIOS on these things... I've heard horror stories about users with these laptops losing the RGB keyboard lighting (along with the little light strip at the front), after upgrading the BIOS / EC, or simply changing seemingly unrelated values. They never get the RGB lighting again... supposedly some sort of hardware failure (blown system board fuse or fried MOSFET?)

 

I’d do it now if you’re within your return/exchange period.

Now is the time to run these through the mud!

 

what's the optimal bios/EC combo in your opinion, Bob? I know you're constantly saying you don't want to be responsible for bricking machines. Please know I wouldn't hold you responsible (nor do I expect any issues). Just curious what your opinion is.

 

I have the latest bio installed. Its the 1.05 bios. I just reinstalled it to make sure. I played some SE4 and still seeing temps in the 90's. I'll order some Kryonaut and see what happens.

 

Great results! I want to get some Conductonaut as well.

I read that liquid metal is not compatible with aluminum. what is the OP heat sink made of? is it aluminum or copper?

 

Copper

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

Are there any other compatible batteries with this machine?

 

For repasting on this laptop, would it be better to order 5.5g of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or would 1g be enough?

 

1g is enough for few applications. Maybe 2-3 laptops. 5.5 if you plan to do 10.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

No besides one listed on page 1.

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1g is more than adequate for few applications to both the CPU and GPU. All you need is a pea sized amount. I would recommend everyone stick to Kryonaut. Yes, conductonaut is amazing but it should only be used if you really know how to handle liquid metal applications, no one here will be responsible for a shorted out mobo.

 

That's not quite accurate. All the games they list as part of the promotion are included, and you get codes to all of them (PUBG, Paladin, world of tanks, Hello Neighbor, etc). If you give them an email in that optional step, you get to pick an additional game from a different group. I can't remember all the options they offered in my case, but I chose Grid Autosport as the additional free game.

You should be able up log back into the intel page and get the rest of your codes for the included games at least (though many of those are already free to play).

 

If you've purchased this RAM, can you confirm that the 8GB capacities are dual rank as shown on the pictures on amazon? Most reviews indicate the Kingston 8GB modules are single rank: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ddr4-sodimm-notebook-memory-roundup-review,5454.html

 

Oh really? It was just laid out in a confusing way then. Thanks for the tip!

 

Mines hit and miss, but enabling it through the FN + F4 works

Bios on LP-01 is N1.00 with the 1.35 ec

 

I was thinking we would get some sale prices on Ram with the new years sales. I have not seen anything worth while yet. I'm still hoping one of these will go down in price.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232166&ignorebbr=1

https://www.pcnation.com/web/detail...Memory-Module-HX426S15IB2K2-16-00740617265415

 

Can you explain this optional step regarding email? I don't remember that, when I go the page now and enter my master key it takes me to the page with the list of games. I don't remember it asking me for an email address.

I was not able to get my master key to work at:
https://starterpack.intel.com/#/home

I had to go to:
https://softwareoffer.intel.com/Redeem

 

Will this battery upgrade work on the 17.3inch model by tong fang the GK7CN6S? please, I need confirmation.

 

Mine seem to be stable. I asked support for the correct file but they sent me files for 15+

On the side note:


2. I plan to add additional ram to my current laptop. Will unscrewing the laptop void my warranty as I see there is a sticker over 1 of the screws.

Unscrewing the laptop will not void warranty. Unfortunately adding additional ram and altering original specs does void the warranty.

 

Adding additional ram does not void the warranty so long as you keep your original stick. Same with the SSD and hard drive. If you need to send your system in for repair, make sure it is in its original config.

 

Actually, using the software to address the power supply issue fixed my front LED which was not longer responding after a previous bios update.

 

Hello everyone,

First of all thanks for the input so far on this particular machine. Must say Bobs videos tempted me to get the Walmart variation and learn to tinker a bit, even being a novice when it comes to handling hardware.

So far I've managed to get up to 1122CB score following everyones advice, adding a Dual Channel RAM kit, and plan on upgrading to the 66Wh Battery. Still haven't done any type of BIOS flashing (running stock OP N.1.04), but from what I hear, I might feel inclined to try out Mechrevos 1.16 / EC 1.33.09.

All in all my experience has been smooth so far, but I currently have a small issue I just cant seem to work out so far:

I switched to gaming center 1.1.16.4 to take advantage of the added low power CPU functionality when in Battery Mode, but now the RGBs behave differently. With the stock Gaming Center enabled, the transition between what the program calls "Start up mode" and the "Backlight Mode" was seamless (after login in to windows, it automatically switched with no hassle). But now, after booting up, there seems to be a transition between both modes, where the RGBs just turn full blown BLUE ( #0000FF), before actually switching to the custom backlight profile.

I've tried going back to other Gaming Center versions to no avail (they all do the same), and poking at HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\OEM\GamingCenter\RGBKeyboardView, without any luck.

Has anyone had a similar issue? If so, where you able to resolve it?

Also, is it normal for this laptop to not include nVidia Control Panel?

Thanks in advance,

 

Were you able to see a hidden option that allows the internal graphics be disabled?

If yes, this would be huge for hackintosh on this laptop, as every other aspects work beautifully in hackintosh now except can't drive the gtx1060 because the inability to disable the internal graphics (UHD630).

 

I upgraded my 17+ to the latest Gaming Center v1.2.2.8 and experienced the same issue with the keyboard lighting, after it working correctly previously. I'd also be interested in a fix.

 

Were you able to see a hidden option that allows the internal graphics be disabled?

If yes, this would be huge for hackintosh on this laptop, as every other aspects work beautifully in hackintosh now except can't drive the gtx1060 because the inability to disable the internal graphics (UHD630).