TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

I believe the empty slot is m.2 nvme 4x/no sata. You can simply put another drive in there and use macrium reflect to clone the stock ssd which should be in m.2 nvme2x/sata slot

 

Actually I updated the link in the original post page 109 (see my signature). Still waiting to be updated page 1. But considering the big bunch of incoming informations, a lot of things are going to pop into first post Or maybe a wiki or subreddit something?
Good to see this huge activity boom here !

 

sicily The best (well only) reasonable mechanism I have found so far, is to quote each of their individual messages (of 2 different people), into my own posts. As above yet again. The original posts then can be found later on, by clicking through each little up arrow ^ hyperlink.

This is how I am collecting a list of these relevant post(s) into my own user's post history. However my own user history is not an easy or obvious format for any other people to later come back / see / find / search for this sort of connected stuff. At this point, there is now far too much information in total, to make a decent clean spider post and to logically to summarize all that. However it's also highly valuable information, all of it, in the context of understanding and diagnosing these power throttling problems.

 

You can use any disk cloning utility .. Clonezilla is free but Linux based but that's what I've always used. Free Windows utilities include Macrium or EaseUS Todo Backup Free.

However if you're going from the factory sata ssd to an nvme (in the different slot of course since slot 2 doesn't support nvme), it most likely won't work because of Windows drivers. You may get a BSOD on boot up, as I did (YMMV, but I tried Clonezilla and Acronis and neither worked for me). But I was also setting up an entire dual boot system with GRUB2 so it might just work fine in your case. I would still, however, back it up. That's the first thing I do with *any* laptop ... make a backup before I even power it on for the first time so that if I ever sell it or need to start from scratch, it's ready to go.

If you run into that case, get a USB stick and use the windows media creation tool to burn a Win 10 ISO image onto it ( https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10) and reinstall Windows from scratch. Since there is a valid key in the BIOS, it will automatically activate upon install. Since OP packaged up all the drivers in one big zip file, it's very easy to get everything set up again.

 

Eh I moved mine from factory to nvme. Factory being m.2 closest to 2.5" bay. The upper empty slot definitely is nvme. Most likely 4x checking my nvme speed. In fact I had dual boot and ended up cloning it to nvme. Though I did redo linux install and moved it to entire sata ssd and blew away Windows BCD in the process... took an hour to fix that nonsense.

 

Yep, wonderful world of Windows.. BCD editing..

 

is there a "search this thread" only function that other forums use? I am trying to find that post with updated link to claim the free game from buying the OP gaming laptop... >_<

 

Yes, upper right click in the search field and then you'll see the "search this thread only" option...

 

Got mine! I'm loving this screen!

 

I had BD PROCHOT disabled in all my tests. First I found out that it was due to MSI Afterburner. It didn't throttle after I disabled that, but when I restarted after making sure Afterburner didn't start upon boot, it started throttling again under 40%. Then it randomly stops throttling again at 20% when battery saver kicks in. The laptop ran for nearly 30 minutes with a youtube video playing while at 7% battery with no throttle, which made me think it was a physical battery problem. I let my battery run out of juice and sit for the night, reseated the battery next morning and then let it fully charge, and voila, no more throttling below 40% after that. I followed these steps from folks who were experiencing the same problem with their XPS and somehow it worked.

 

https://softwareoffer.intel.com/Redeem

 

Hi Everyone,

I've had the laptop for a couple weeks and it's been really great out of the box. I am not super critical about my tech, I'm more of a plug and play kind of guy and so far it has been playing the game I wanted to play Warhammer II much smoother than my old Razer with a 765m.

I want to optimize this laptop but I don't think I am able to look through all of this thread to do so. Can someone chime in to see what I need? This is what I have so far..

1. Software update from their website

2. Dual channel. I am not sure if I should just purchase a 4GB and stick it in or get 8gb x 2 of another brand. I plan to keep my goldkey for warranty. Any recommendations for a RAM source will be greatly appreciated.

3. Change Thermal paste - I have only built one computer back in 2012 and it was a wreck, I don't feel confident with switching it, and I am weary about the chemicals since I am sensitive to things like mercury and heavy metals. how much of a boost will changing the paste make?

4. Battery - What are you recommendationsnot sure if I am planning to switch it since I will probably only play at places with outlets and I have an old 2013 MBP with nice specs for work and surfing.

 

Anyone else getting "codes out of stock" on a bunch of the items?

 

Just got laptop, out of the box, no nothing I get 1191~1196 CBr15.
Baseline. Seems like its doing 65W ok. Temps hitting 85. so I guess no need to worry about 180W issue.
win10 1803 wont update to 1809

To DO
install TS to undervolt, repaste (not sure if go Kryonaut or Conductonaut) Not sure if heatsink/cooler Aluminum.
Currently N.1.05 / 1.35.09 so I assume this is good to go from factory.

Anything else I am missing ? Got this as work laptop to autodesk and Solidworks, hopefully 1060 wasn't wasted on this.

Thanks

UPDATE: after TS 1262-1265 consistent 10 runs. 75C max

 

Has anyone figured out the issue of the laptop running at 800MHz when on battery below 40%? I haven't been able to find anything with the search feature.

Regards,

 

Check, like, literally, 6 posts up?

 

@ApplePi - If the battery fix at the top of the page does not solve your throttling problem, can you post a screenshot of ThrottleStop with the Limit Reasons window and the FIVR window open? It might help me understand the throttling method being used and perhaps I can come up with a way to work around this issue.

 

Does anyone else here play Overwatch? If so what FPS are you getting?

Stock Overpowered 15+ i7-8750H, GTX 1060, single stick 16GB RAM
BIOS = N1.05, EC 1.35.09
NVIDIA = drivers 417.35, prefer High-performance NVIDIA processor
OP Control Center = Fan: Gaming Mode; Performance: Equilibrium Mode
High Precision Event Timer = Disabled
Overwatch = all Low graphics or Off, 75% Render, set to High priority in Task Manager
ThrottleStop = undervolt -125mV CPU Core and Cache, Speed Shift enabled 1..41

With the above settings I was able to get 180-200 FPS in Practice Range, 140-150 FPS in game, and in team fights it drops to 120-130 FPS. I'm not sure how much dual channel RAM would help, as the game really isn't RAM intensive and I was able to get past the 35W Power Limit... I'm assuming the 1060 just isn't powerful enough to maintain 150+ FPS.

I'm about to give up and return the damn thing.

 

I've extensively tested these settings and, for the most part, they work wonders. The only one that has me struggling is PP0 current limit set to 110. Like @clone1008 , my stock setting was set at 80. stability testing (AIDA64) with this setting set to 110 actually makes the CPU Temp Throttle, but doesn't seem to affect TS benches (12T, 1024M).

I actually had no issue installing RwDrv.sys, but now every time the program autostarts at boot up (following the scheduled task) an error notification pops up saying "Error location driver file: The system cannot find the file specified", for some reason. TS seems to be working normally, and I can freely toggle "Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits".

Thanks for your time and helping everyone in figuring out this machines behavior.

 

Are you using ThrottleStop 8.70.6 from my signature? I think that bug has been fixed in the latest version. Just download and copy the latest ThrottleStop.exe into your ThrottleStop folder and overwrite the older version you are using.

 

In Practice Range with your settings I get 250-275 FPS, and in-game on Junkertown I was getting 200+ FPS easily. I am running dual-channel 2x8GB 2666 CL15 Kingston Hyper X RAM. I'm also running +75 on core and +75 on memory overclock with MS Afterburner.

 

Sorry, didn't notice the new version in your signature till now. Indeed it solved it. Thanks a lot.

 

I can hold 150+ FPS with everything maxed but, fog = low, dynamic reflection = med, shadow detail =med

I did read that overwatch it bugged if your use auto graphics settings. Try restoring defaults, then adjusting manually

 

Did anyone have any success installing unclewebs TS mega link?

 

@oneintheblack - Did you not have success or are you afraid to try it? Many, many people have successfully used this trick on many different laptops since that file was uploaded to mega 4 months ago. The RwDrv.sys file comes from the RWEverything program which has been in development for 14 years. This is not nearly as sketchy as it might initially seem.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Installed RwDrv.sys on mine, and got 1271 in CB15 and 13 987 in 3Dmark 11, never seen this good scoores before!

 

Nice, how do you resetted the battery?

 

I tried the latter on Afterburner and it was a negligible improvement. Is the only other difference the dual-channel RAM (16GB -> 16GB) and that is getting you 80-100 more FPS?

Just restored to default and setting everything manually, no difference for me. Assuming you meant Epic settings, how are you getting that many FPS?

 

Do I need to install the App, or do i just download and run the program? The latter isn't working

 

Ah I have seen this program pefore. Excellent. Can you tell us how TS using it more specifically? That it cannot otherwise do without the RwDrv.sys? Thank you.

 

Sorry for my ignorance, but can you explain what that program/file does? or link me to a page that explains?

Cheers

 

Here's a video showing how to install. You will probably pick up on why it's used by watching it...

 

Interesting... so basically it allows for the use of the full extent of the RAM - both single AND dual channel memory.
I guess for this laptop it would help more for people with Single Channel RAM.

Also, any reviews/feedback on the brown switches for this variant? Something about the typing experience and consistency of keys?

 

I know there is some talk about it in the first post on this thread. Personally I like the keyboard so I haven't done any reading on this topic.

 

What is the difference between 2666Mhz RAM and the higher ones like 3200Mhz? Specifically if adding to this laptop

 

534 mhz ... but sarcasm aside, this laptop does not support XMP profiles or OCing memory, so only use max 2666 mhz (PC4-21300). You do more harm than good getting "fast" memory that supposedly supports up to 3200 mhz as it may default to the stock/lowest profile in this chassis, which could only be 2400 mhz. There's been plenty of suggestions in this thread already as to what memory to get, but stick to something simple.

 

Glad my post is helping people out! It is really strange though that all these other settings are coming set differently by default on the same machine. I did not change anything but the values I mentioned in the steps in that post. So the power limits and PP0 and all the other options there are what were default on mine and so far I have not noticed any throttling. I'll try running AIDA64 to see if I get some throttling like you mentioned.

 

Anyone know where they sell the 8gb variant of the RAM in the OP15? Preferably a vendor that has them in stock for a while as I'll probably buy in a couple months.

Thanks

Edit: Quick Question - can an 8gb + 16gb combination of the same ram be used to make this laptop run dual channel?
Literally same everything apart from the capacity

 

Yup, I cannot get a code for pubg, telling me to come back when they restock.

 

At this point i am not massively bothered about lack of external screen working, so far everything I have tried seems to indicate this is more hardware / firmware related than a software issue (same symptoms on 3 OSes where disabling dGPU kills video signal to external monitor), so i am happy to leave it for now.
At the moment I kill the GPU manually, which allows me to leave it running if I am working with an external display.

My next minor bugbear is the trackpad response not anywhere near as good as on Windows, so just wandering whether you have come across any obvious tweaks that improve it?

 

….to boldly go where no laptop has gone before….

(drums)

TONGFANG GK5CP0Z

RTX 2060 and RTX 2070 Max-Q

https://www.fortunetechnology.com/notebooks/12786/

https://www.pcspecialist.nl/notebooks/recoil-II-rtx-15/

 

Anyone try installing Intel Optane Memory to help speed up the 1TB drive? I have one from a prior build lying around, was thinking about installing it if I could.

 

https://i.imgur.com/FOBg2Te.jpg

Seems to PL2 throttle at 40% and randomly PL1 throttle below that.

The battery fix didn't 100% work it still throttles down to 800MHz just not all the time now. CB performance is god aweful. Got a 217 at 37% battery.

 

@ApplePi - Your screenshot shows that the throttling method is power limit related. Why not try this fix that I keep talking about?



@clone1008 - Posted a video on the previous page that shows how to get this feature installed into ThrottleStop.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ongfang-gk5cn6z.815943/page-274#post-10843849

 

okay I'll give it a try

 

Hey everyone. My first post here.

First off, thanks for all the time and effort a lot of you have put into this thread. It's been great.

I've had my eye on the Eluktronics Mech 15 G2 for a few months now as my next laptop until I started seeing video after video of the Overpowered laptops on YouTube. I dismissed them at first because it sounded too good to be true, but they kept popping up, so I decided to do some research and found my way to this thread.

I ordered the OP 15+ on Dec 28 during its brief re-stocking, and it was supposed to be delivered on the 4th, but it got delayed for one reason or another and didn't arrive until yesterday afternoon. I immediately was impressed with the packaging. The innards were pretty basic (laptop in a sleeve, power supply, SoundBlaster placard, and the basic startup instructions), but it was safe, sturdy packaging. My box arrived in perfect shape.

I was also immediately impressed by the outward build quality and feel. It's a solid laptop, but doesn't feel like a brick. The keyboard isn't any more audible than a traditional chiclet keyboard, in my opinion, just a different type of sound. I have no issues with its layout, as my few years of desktop support in the mid 2000s has given me the gift of on-the-fly keyboard adaptation. I have 0 play in my touchpad, like many others have mentioned. I do, however, understand the sharp corners remarks. On the front facing corners, there's just no subtle edge at all.

I spent several hours installing Windows catered to my liking, updating drivers, disabling a lot of "spy" and capture features/services, getting an AV and firewall up and running, configuring power and fan settings, etc. By that time it was close to midnight and I had to work in the morning so I only had time to try a quick game of Heroes of Might and Magic 5, which isn't resource-intensive by any means, though obviously a bit heavier than solitaire.

After about 10 minutes or so the fan speed kicked up enough to be audible (internet browsing runs essentially silent), my CPU temps remained stable in the lower 50s, and the GPU climbed up into the lower 70s. Not too concerning at face value, but slightly warmer than my 5 year old, though repasted, Lenovo Ideapad Z510, but I'm waiting on my takeout 16GB Goldkey stick from Ebay to arrive before I repaste with GE Solutions GC-Extreme, as I'm expecting my current paste jobs to look like someone took a couple gray dumps on my PUs like they're starring in some fet porn video. Until then, I'm not too concerned about temps and won't really run any benchmarks until my hardware arrives for an immediate before and after.

Anyway, sorry for the novel, but I know a lot of people are curious about immediate opinions so I figured I would entertain them.

Thanks again for all the input thus far! I can't wait to really get my hands dirty with this machine.

 

Welp, no joy with latest Linux Mint distro, Ubuntu and elementary OS (5.0) via USB. Edited grub command line options numerous times, set / flag / switch from acpi=off to "nomodeset"...hangs after splash screen with black screen/blinking cursor, or nasty raster flashing color screen.

 

Nobody else have this issue? It's present with the other options that use the function keys too, like changing screen brightness, etc.

Holding volume up or down often just moves it by single notches, one after another.

 

I'm playing catch-up with reading and am only on p. 247. So this may have been answered but I use this to circumvent the GF Experience bloatware.

TinyNvidiaUpdateChecker 1.13.0

 

You could speed up the manual dGPU kill by creating an alias in your .bashrc
You go in your homedirectory and type sudo nano .bashrc there should be already one, if not feel free to create one. .bashrc is your terminal config file. If it has any content look if you find al line starting with alias. then add
alias arcticjoe =
echo '\_SB.PCI0.PEG0.PEGP._OFF' > /proc/acpi/call
This will kill the dGPU everytime you type "arcticjoe" in the terminal. You can add sudo before echo ich you have to sudo it. If your .bashrc is empty just add it. If you dont have any alias lines in there, add it at the bottom or wherever you want. Of course arcticjoe can be everything you want that isn't already taken by another command.
e,g, mine looks like this https://imgur.com/a/m6nO8ep

No plan with the touchpad. I put every slider on slow. It kind of like works for me. Yes the one finger tap only works on the left hand side of the TP. Seems to be we have a 2 button Touchpad with a invisible button seperator.It says multi finger emulation may disable software buttons, but in my case it doesn't. Well, sometimes it just works just fine, sometimes the right hand side will ignore my taps. Touchpads and linux.... long story we can be happy it works somehow.