TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

I have tried this and it still is randomly throttling down to 800MHz and refuses to upclock at all. But randomly it will up clock again. And this was happening on battery around 52% not just below 40%

Edit: once it hit 40% it's still throttling to 800Mhz consistently.

 

Oh yeah, to anyone who installed MyApp in favor of the Gaming Center, EasyAntiCheat flags MyApp as cheating software, which renders you unable to run multiplayer games that use it like Paladins. GamingCenter is not flagged by it, so if you play a game affected by it it's better to stick with GamingCenter.

Did you let the battery completely run out and leave it alone for at least 12 hours before re-seating it? After the laptop shuts down on its own the first time, make sure to power it again so that any and all leftover battery charge is gone. Doing this fixed the throttling for me.

 

nvm

 

The reason it is being throttled at battery is related to the PL2 powerlimit which won't let it draw more than 15W on battery.

 

i cant do any testing my self until i get my lap top it finnly going to be here tomorrow tracking updated >.>

 

Is anyone running a complete fresh install of win 10?

1. To use the normal Nvidia driver I will have to install them before the computer connects to the internet? Will i run into issues later on when the driver updates? Why does the driver not work in the first place?

2. The OP package contains so many drivers (and old drivers), LOL. Is the consensus to use these drivers or let windows auto install drivers? I'm having a hard time deciphering whats what in the package.

3. The GamingCenter from OPs package doesnt work.

I reverted back to the stock install for now. Still need to check to see if it came with the newest BIOS and EC.

I followed @killerkhatiby009 tutorial, and things are looking good so far.

Now for the side project of setting up VMware so i can get official macos install files!

 

Mine jumps by 2 up and down throughout the entire range, and can be kind of slow if going all the way, but it is honestly sort of welcome compared to my Dell that starts slow and then rapidly jumps to Spinal Tap levels blasting my house of sleeping kids and wife with decibels for days.

Is that what you mean?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Walmart better not start selling these for $800 too...
That's interesting that they'll put a 2070 Max-Q in this chassis but not the 1070 Max-Q.

 

Nvidia was likely trying to dump their previous 1000-series GPU chips for dirt cheap since they have released the RTX 2000-series GPUs. We won’t see any pricing similar to the blowout pricing we witnessed in December.

 

got a 1298 score but just cant touch that guy on hwbot with number 1 and his 3000 mhz ram. do you know if the op 17+ supports 3000 mhz ram?

 

quick question, does power TDP affect performance if the laptop can maintain 3.9ghz under load? say 65W vs 75W while both wattage the laptop is maintaining 3.9ghz?

like, if my OP 17+ can maintain a constant 3.9ghz under load at 65watt TDP, is there any reason/benefit to change it to 75watt TDP?

 

wow, mind sharing your settings and tweaks to achieve that score?

 

woot I did it boi's number 2 no hope to touch that top guy tho. the settings I ran are not 100% stable on battery since the stability for bigger core offsets has issues if it falls below or really close to 500mv but it runs fine on battery https://hwbot.org/submission/403577...___r15_core_i7_8750h_1300_cb?recalculate=true biggest thing that helps mine was upping the max turbo wattage under that tab so that it didnt go off 3.9ghz

 

if it hits spikes of over 65 watts enough it will throttle it but in anything real world if just games you wont hit over that. but for bench marking putting it to 75 with an undervolt keeps you from going under 3.9ghz during the whole test

 

Well my best so far. It hits 1279 about 5 times now. It averages 1275. But I think that's pretty good

Core -.250
Cache -.130
Agent and igpu are at -.50
Boost power max 64
Short power max 84
Turbo Time Limit 56

It's interesting. From what I've heard, core and cache should be equal. But this has been the most stable, and runs the coolest during Multiple games of BF 5.

Would there be any negative effects of having my core and cache values this way?

 

hmm did touching agent drop anything? I left that alone but I did move my boost power to 75 just for the fact that cinbench would hit 72 at times

 

From what I know some machines require them to be the same but not all. In some cases it will also just use the lower of the 2 values when they are set differently. I'm not sure of a way to 100% confirm if the undervolt is actually working correctly and how the OP laptop works besides doing some tests and seeing if it makes any difference. @unclewebb can definitely help with clarifying this a bit more. I have mine set slightly differently too since I was having some BSOD when I had the Core and Cache set to -0.125V.

 

So... is it the goal to find the lowest TDP that would avoid any kind of throttling, and anything above that would just generate more heat with no advantage?

 

Well having the values set differently is definitely making a difference as far as thermals are considered. So it has to be doing something atleast. I saw about a 5 degree drop in Tempature with an offset value. If I keep them equal the most I can undervolt is -.146. Core/cache

Just a side note. While playing games. I'll bring the boost power max to 45-52w. It will hold 3.9 in BF 5 with max tempature of 88 with auto fans. Average would be 80ish

 

So, I was running some tests while on battery (mainly to confirm if I had any of the throttling issues mentioned by other users) and something interesting happened when I ran a TS Bench (12T / 1024M): 5 seconds into the benchmarking my laptop completely died and it wouldn't turn on again by any means unplugged. After plugging it booted up fine, but I noticed the battery had completely drained (It was in 74% when I started the TS Benchmark). I have been using these settings without issues with the laptop plugged in and, as mentioned before, this didn't feel like system stability.

Any idea why this happened? Also, if anyone has any specific recommendations with regards to the settings, please let me know!

 

when undervolting alot on core be carefull when on battery and it goes to a low clock it can become unstable you can combat this by changing minimum clock speed on battery setting in the performance plan area.

 

setting a tdp to low will cause the laptop to thorttle but setting it to high wont really matter. you could set 100 but it will really only draw so much in cinbench it seems to pull about 72 watts or so at some spots. but settings it to say 75 will just remove it as a thing that limits your cpu if it is getting to hot you may want a lower tdp.

 

I feel your pain. Just now I got Manjaro up and running:

To get a successful boot to the live CD, I had to hit 'e' and change the grub parameter only for nouveau.modeset to from 1 to 0.
After the install was done I rebooted but booted back to the live CD and used the manjaro architect to install grub on the ssd from the rescue menu after I edited grub.cfg to include the acpi_osi! acpi_osi='Windows 2009' nouveau.modeset=0 string.

The touchpad was working first thing with the 4.19 kernel, but I did install 4.20 as well with no touchpad issues. I haven't dove into the nvidia drivers just yet.

 

anyone know if the 17+ laptop from walmart can run 3000 mhz ram?

 

Can you share your Throttlestop settings. I was able to hit 1249 using the latest version of TS and RwDrv.sys. I want to know if the rest of the difference is due to single channel versus dual channel RAM setup. Thanks for your help.

 

Hi unclewebb,

I haven't spoke to you in a while and I hope all is going well for you in life. I really appreciate your help as always and all the effort you put into developing plus maintaining Throttlestop. I was able to beat my score and post a submission for Cinebench score of 1263. I will be buying you a beer on my payday coming up.



Regards,
Faiz23

 

I just saw the same Tongfang 15 and 17 inch chassis' with rtx 2070s on Pcworld's CES coverage.

 

This chassis is coming very very soon with RTX 2070. When I say soon I mean really soon These models get the new GPUs sooner than the other brands like MSI, Asus, etc

So for anyone deciding what to buy, wait a bit. Altho I doubt any chassis will be able to properly cool a RTX card without massive throttling or really low clocks. Be warned about that.

 

yep that in there lies the issue the 2060 is undoubtedly better then the 1060 but its power draw is also higher so how much better will it be when its brought down to a lv that this chasis or other laptops can cool. I don't regret buying the op 17+ at all for 989+tax it was a steal with everything it has

 

Seeing the average GPU temps of this chassis is low 70s, I feel like theres some head room

 

no 2666 is max

 

it should support an optane module to speed up the secondary 2tb drive right? I know the 370 desktop and 390 desktop support it but was just wondering if this laptop does. I have the op 17+ and it would be nice to slap a 16gb optane in there but who knows if it supports it. I guess I could always buy it on amazon and return it if it doesnt work

 

Please just make a new thread for the new one with the RTX 2070 or it will be total confusion here

 

That is absolutely Correct. HOWEVER:

The thing to realize here is that different programs generate different kinds of cpu workloads. Which profile differently. So depending upon your specific usage(s), there may not be a universal '1 size fits all' way to solve that problem.

If you optimize for Battlefield 5 then that's great if your only demanding CPU task is battlefield 5. However, maybe you also want to run a different program, and it presents a different load to the CPU. And what if that other specific program also uses some AVX instructions? Well at least for AVX, that increase power usage substantially compared to a non AVX program. However that is then also paid back in return with a healthy return in performance.

As stated previously by TS author and the other guy before him here. There key setting in TS is the one marked 'EP' from 0-255. That controls 'how fast' or 'how eagerly' the algorithm boosts the CPU up to the maximum 3.9ghz. If you set it to 0. Then you will not loose any cpu time. The CPU is always spun up.

But the recommended value is about 83. Which saves power by not running at 3.9ghz all of the time. Because when the CPU is idle, a lower core frequency consumes a bit less power. And it's not doing nothing anyhow! So then your overall bench is almost the same (near enough). And your overall temps should be a bit lower. Just with that little lost time because the cpu is spinning up and down a little bit. (or a lot, if you happened to set your EP value 255 by mistake, or it's not been enabled properly, or whatever else is getting in the way, which happens pretty often due to misconfiguration).

It would be a good idea to test this out yourself for other intensive workloads... adjusting the value between 0 and 100.

And also try compare avx / non-avx 'real life' workloads that you actually care about. You might want to make more than one generic profile in Throttlestop. You can have up to 4 total.

You also might want to change the max/min clock speed ratios or the undervolt setting for AVX workloads. Because AVX instructions use up so much more power. They can generate a lot more heat. But if you dont have any real life AVX workloads, then I guess that simplifies your job considerably.

Typically, you will either end up with:

* 2 Throttlestop profiles for battery, + 2 profiles for AC powered usage

or

* 3 Throttlestop profiles for battery, + 1 profile for AC powered usage

Because there's only 4 profiles. It limits your choices.

 

Hey guys, how would you rate the TongFang GK5CN6Z against the Lenovo Legion Y530?

 

> anyone know if the 17+ laptop from walmart can run 3000 mhz ram

Correct.

However it might be possible to use a 3000mhz kit in order to achieve tighter timings than the Kingston HyperX CL15 kit. Which is the sort of thing I would expect these overclockers to be trying.

I think perhaps Buildzoid on his AHOC channel was showing off a runtime tool you can use in windows. After the system has booted. In order to adjust timings?

Otherwise its considerably more difficult to do.

 

Well the Tongfang uses more generic hardware. Which is easier to maintain and work on. They both have under-sized batteries. But at least with the Tongfang you have potential way(s) to install a bigger one or modify the laptop. Not so with the Lenovo.

Also Lenovo are far more likely to include firmware chips that can really brick your laptop (for example if you setup a BIOS password, then forget what that password was).

The Tongfang is probably a lot less expensive... well what else? Thermals are best on the Tongfang, amongst ANY notebook in this size class, for the 8750H.

Keyboard is probably better for most people on the lenovo. I don't really think there is much else to say. You might be able to get a discount from the RRP for a Lenovo. If you sign up for some discount scheme. Lenovo may have better support contract option.

 

The cooling solution was one of the aspects that I was worried about on the Lenovo, but I heard that it is 'good enough' to cool the components, like you said though, TongFang is better

About the keyboard being better on the Lenovo, are you saying that there are some "problems" on the TongFang keyboard or that the Lenovo keyboard is just far superior than the TongFang?

Thanks.

 

Yeah i would say that myself. The thing about the tongfang keys is really 2 things:

1) the keycaps are flat shaped. if you press on one edge, the key will tilt instead of depress. Like it pivots from the centre

2) the keyswitch actuation is different from most other keyboards. So its more challenging (than for other laptops), to adapt and be constantly switching between the Tongfang and another PC

Wheras the Lenovo. Well most people just like it without any specific reservations. And the people who claim they dont like the lenovo keyboards tend to be the ones who have already been using slightly different / better thinkpad keyboards on older models. So that's more of a quibble and regression rathen than them being outright bad.

If the quality bar is standard is to:

'average over all laptop chicklet keyboards'

Then lenovo exists above that bar threshold. Wheras Tongfang is nebulously off to the right / out there somewhere on a disconnected island of it's own.

People who use the Tongfang keyboards do say they can adjust over a longer time period. Say, 2 weeks or more. After which time they really like it. Others are so initially put off by the key wobble or action that they never reach that point.

XMG in Germany has better contoured keycaps on their '15 Neo' branded versions. Which is to say they have some better contour and feel. Not sure if they wobble less at the edges, but its easier to find the centers of the keys. Due to the slightly domed contour. Which means you 'get there' to that adjusted typing positional memory of finger locations quicker (where the fingers should be).

Hope that helps.

 

100% success with Manajro Linux. Burned the iso to USB stick, booted, system came right up. Overpowered OP-LP2 15" laptop (i7-8750H CPU, GTX-1060 6GB, 16GB DDR4-2666, 256GB M.2 SSD). Touchpad worked right at bootup. Had to use proprietary ISO image writing software, however. (Universal USB and Rufus = no bueno).


Thanks for the great tip, schmoken!

 

The GK5CN6Z is a vastly better deal...was $60 USD cheaper, and has so much more. (I got mine for $799). The Y530 package comes with the i7-8750H CPU, but with 8GB less RAM, no SSD, only a 1TB 7200 rpm spinner, and worst of all, a GTX-1050, hobbled by only 4GB of ram, along with a 60Hz IPS panel, for $859 USD.

My GK5CN6Z (Overpowered OP-LP2) also has the i7-8750H CPU, but with a GTX-1060 6GB, 256GB M.2 SSD (SATA3), 16GB RAM, and 144Hz IPS 15.6" panel, $799 Walmart rollback.

 

I see, thanks for the info.
I assume the difference in keyswitch actuation is because it is a mechanical keyboard? and a laptop mechanical keyboard at that.

Something that just raised a flag was the wobble on the keys. Would this technically increase the odds of damaging the keys or am I just overthinking things? lol

 

Thanks for your response , Yes it was the cache undervolt . All looks good now with the undervolt set to-125mv. Thanks again !

 

it is possible to replace the key caps, I swapped back and forth between the key caps on my 15+ and 17+ at least 3 times and can say the key caps from 17+ make a world of difference.

However, with the 17+ key caps on the 15+, i get the feeling since the key caps are "taller/thicker" than the original 15+ key caps, they might be touching the 15+ screen?!

 

I've been dual booting Win10 and Linux Mint cinnamon, now you got me curious to try Manjaro, curious which desktop interface do you guys use? If i want to get two 4k external monitors to work on the OP 17+ with Manjaro does different desktop interfaces (XFCE, Gnome, KDE etc) make any difference?

 

Thanks for mentioning this. We needed to hear about that ! As I also am pretty concerned about the default flat ones.

If only the 17 inch were less plastic-y. The shell / casings. Although I suppose if I skin it, maybe then it would be harder to notice?

And what about the size difference for the 17? For keeping a similar level of portability. As the 15 inch is smaller. It has me a little torn between them. I am also torn because the 17 inch frame there is probably more internal room for cramming tiny ssds into weird corners / locations / cavity spaces.

 

I have the 15" OP-LP2, and the only way I can describe it is "plush"... brushed black aluminum lid and keyboard deck, and the keys feel great. Not "clicky" at all...and the "bounce" and tactile is great. Touchpad is fine. Plus, the 15 screen is apparently a lot sharper and higher nits than the 17. The 15 has a much more premium feel than the 17". Zero regrets.

 

I feel ya, I ended up returning the 15+, and I looked at it this way, it's basically a 14inch gaming laptop vs a 16inch, in my younger days the fan noise prob wouldnt bothered me, but now with more people around me and this laptop will be my only laptop for both work and home use, that random spin up of the fans of the 15+ just doing office tasks got my colleagues attention, so that was a deal breaker.

Yes, the 17+ is a lot "bigger and heavier" than the 15+ having them side by side, and most people commented the 15+ being more attractive looking. But I am coming from a MSI GE72 6QD with 6700HQ, so the 17+ is an upgrade in every aspect, and also I noticed some brand spanking new thin bezel 17inch gaming laptops at 2019 CES, and the $999 OP 17+ is really all good for me!

in regards to the RTX 2060, yeah I want it, but I doubt the OP brand gonna bring that over, let alone at the 799 and 999 Walmart special price points (big maybe for the holidays 2019?)? so, that makes me feel better =D

 

so if I want to do a fresh Win10 install, should I build the install USB drive from the April 2018 Update to avoid 1809? (btw, what's wrong with 1809?)