TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Expectation? I used the that ADATA in an OP15+. All was fine. NVME is overrated, fast but rarely something that actually matters. If priced right like that Adata usually is then go for it. The seconf slot doesn't run the drive at its max but you wouldn't know the difference and that isn't a bad thing.

 

ThrottleStop does not have adjustable power limits for each profile yet. What you can do is set IccMax to a lower value on your battery profile. This basically accomplishes the same thing. Lowering the amount of current flowing through a CPU is going to result in lower power consumption. To get a feel for this, start by loading your CPU with the TS Bench while plugged in. While this test is running, lower the IccMax value and see what happens to the CPU MHz and power consumption values. See if EDP OTHER lights up in Limit Reasons. This will give you a general idea of how IccMax and power consumption are related. This relationship varies slightly depending on the type of load you are running.

As for donations, that part of TS has been closed for a long time. I always recommend going out and feeding someone that looks hungry.

This is usually a sign that your CPU is being throttled by the current limit. If PL1 and PL2 are not the cause of throttling, increasing your turbo power limits is not going to fix the problem. For EDP OTHER, go into the TPL window and while your CPU is loaded, try increasing the PP0 Current Limit. Does this make the throttling go away?

How come? Where is a screenshot of this problem you are having with ThrottleStop? Are your power limits locked by the bios? Does ThrottleStop show the Lock box checked in the Turbo Power Limits window?

 

I have ranted and raved this TongFang chassis just like I do with Clevo laptops. People wonder why as if I haven't been CLEAR over and over again. Well here we are with another great reason why. The community tinkers with everything and I love it!

Thanks for taking the time to mess about with stuff like this.

Same with the fellas out there making the BIOS a better place for these too. How's that coming along anyway?

 

So I have eaten my previous said words about liquid metal, and they are salty.

All tests were done with max fan speeds, 0.141mv undervolt, equilibrium mode in gaming center, balanced mode in windows power options.

Here is a imgur album of my experience with liquid metal: https://imgur.com/a/elDquQp

To sum it up my MasterGel pumped out to the point of bad thermal throttling in only 7 days. Against my previous words I decided to give liquid metal a go since I had some laying around.

After scouring the copper heatsink down all I can say is that I am blown away by the results. 73°C Max with only a CPU workload, with a combined CPU/GPU work load CPU: 85°C Max, GPU: 77°C Max. Remember that the GPU doesn't have liquid metal on it.

I plan on letting this liquid metal sit on here for a few weeks to see if it will last, but at least for now the results are great.

Right now I have no protective measures because this is just a "trial" run with liquid metal. I plan on buying some conformal coating to cover the surface mount components around the GPU die and apply liquid metal to that as well.

I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between silicone, acrylic, and urethane conformal coatings?

1. Silicone Conformal Coating
2. Acrylic Conformal Coating
3. Urethane Conformal Coating

Also does anyone have recommendations for thermal pad replacements? Because liquid metal is thinner than you typical thermal paste I'm worried that the stock pads are too thick and are inhibiting some thermal transfer so I was going to buy thinner pads.

I'm looking at two options so far which are:

1. K5 PRO
2. Fujipoly Ultra Extreme

Fujipoly Ultra Extreme thermal pads have significantly higher thermal transfer abilities than K5 PRO (17.0w/mk vs. 5.3 w/mk ) however I would assume that K5 PRO would be able to be compressed down more than regular thermal pads to make up the difference in thickness that liquid metal offers. I want the best contact possible between my cpu + gpu and the heatsink, so I'm leaning towards K5 PRO, but I was wondering what your guy's opinions are?

Finally if anyone was wondering the size of the screws used for the heatsink they are M2x4 screws. The spring loaded screw is M2x8 but I don't think you can take the spring off of it to replace it with another screw so be careful to not strip that one.

 

what did you use for the cpu work load just cpu or cpu fpu and system memory or some mix? and are your power limits moved up or just stock? nh1 pumped out for me similarly and I have been rocking ic diamond which is seeming to be holding up very well

 

Cpu work load was aida64 with CPU and FPU load.

Combined workload was aida64 with CPU+FPU with furmark running at the same time.

The power limits are the stock power limits:
P1: 55w
P2: 65w

How's the temperatures working with IC Diamond?

 

I will change my power limits to stock so it can be comparable otherwise the stress test will hold like 72 watts threw out and make the temps not as comparable

 

You can set the keyboard lightning and the lightstrip in Windows and in Linux it keeps its colour, but not its brightness. Some kind of improvement.
The CB scores are indeed a little lower, dropped by 20-50, but my cpu-z and geekbench values are higher. +160 in cpu-z and +1500 in geekbench. It is quieter than before.

 

seems about right margin of error with master gel when it was fresh. this application is about a week old so its not long term yet but I move my laptop around alot and it gets thrown into a backpack ect so nh1 pumped out quite fast when I used it. seems to do pretty well for a paste advertised as 4.5 W/m-K seems they may almost be under selling there rating or many are over selling theres in some way

 

First off Thank replying.
Lock box is not checked. I have attached screenshots and am totally stumped.

I did not mean to indicate that TS was the problem and am just confused about why I can't change the PL1,PL2 with TS or XTU.

I am assuming it is due to a BIOS lock which is why I was asking about Bios version compatibility of the 15" on this 17".

Was thinking about digging through my garage to find my CH341 on account of @ Lost_N_BIOS's progress over at win-raid and the possibility that one of the hidden advanced menu's for the OP-LP2 may unlock PL1 and PL2.

Also if anyone could chime in on if the LP2 bios flashes without issue on the LP3. I read somewhere that different chassis = different bios with these tongfangs? I also read here and other places that the HW is identical in both the LP2 and LP3. Unfortunately I was only able to get my hands on an LP3 and am a little apprehensive.




Kind Regards,

Zeddi

 

Thanks for your help. I was able to reduce the usage down to 35w - 45w when adjusting IccMax. What is a good Watt value to try to get the CPU to on battery power given the small stock battery?

 

The mydigitalSSD NVME PBX Pro is a pretty sweet deal and works well with these Chassis

https://www.amazon.com/MyDigitalSSD-80mm-2280-S3-M-Express-960GB/dp/B07GZ29CSZ?th=1

I am seeing 2200-2500mb reads and around 1500mbs writes on the OP-LP3. Faster for scrubbing video and loading games than the Sata M.2

 

this is a pretty sick deal on a nvme ssd if you needed on https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-EX920-M...h=item590a7ffef0:g:RwMAAOSwi6JaxM65:rk:1:pf:0

 

I was able to hit another high score of 1270 in Cinebench with a 100% stock setup (Single Stick RAM, SSD, PASTE, BIOS, etc.)

 

Specifically which stock Bios?

 

100% stock Walmart image with November build

Gaming Center: V1.2.2.1
BIOS Version: N.1.05
EC Version: 1.35.09
Build 11/2018
Product: OP-LP2

 

@Zeddi - Try using the FIVR - Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits feature and see if that will get you beyond the 56 Watt limit. Intel uses multiple power limits.

It depends what sort of apps you need to run when on battery power and how much abuse these batteries can take. It is all trial and error. Without having a handful of batteries to test, it is hard to say.

 

@unclewebb

Thank you sir. that worked perfectly.

 

I just discovered what you guys call the "pump-out effect" endured by thermal paste, especially the most liquid ones, and I think I'm affected because of the following reasons:
- I have Noctua NT-H1 applied and it seems to be very liquid compared to others
- I experience a gap of 20°C between CPU threads during load. More precisely, during a TS bench of 1024M on all 12 threads, the 4 first ones in the list easily hit 95-96°C and thermal throttle, while the two last ones stay around 75°C. The 6 others in the middle are in a range between 80 and 90°C. When idle, the 2 last threads are always about 5°C cooler than the first ones. Is it a normal behavior due to how the CPU manage its load between each thread ? Or is there something wrong ?

I'm also wondering about replacing the blue thermal pads surrounding CPU and GPU. I remember when I opened the laptop to apply NT-H1, they looked not sticky enough to stay in place. So I think maybe their role in thermal throttling is neglected. Does anyone of you have a more precise answer about that ? And maybe a suggestion for what pads to buy as replacement ? I only saw those ones suggested by @MuzzleFuzzle but I would like to find something easily available in EU.

THANKS to get into this work !
My 2 cents:
- I'm not a big fan of fancy interfaces, like actual Gaming Center' or MSI Afterburner ones. I always prefer to stick with something sober. Maybe not as cryptic as TS interface (sorry @unclewebb I love your work anyway ), but just small and effective. Maybe I can help for this kind of UI design if you want ! Is it conceivable to have a "switch between fancy/boring themes" button ?
- Maybe for some of us who like to tune as they want : the ability to disable the XTU profiles set by the control center (considering it will work the same way in your version - and yeah it might mess up your super silent mode but eh I bet some of us would prefer to set their own super silent mode as they want).
- Thanks again !

 

sounds similar to how my laptop behaved noctua nt h1 is just to thin for my laptop at least. I am using ICdiamond paste atm and it is holding up well. other thicker paste may also work ICdiamond is alot harder to apply as it goes on like gum but it resist pump out because of that thickness. just be cautious if you go the ICdiamond route when applying and removing watch out for anything even kinda hard as the diamond particles will give things and edge its almost like a polishing compound

 

Setting PP0 to 100 definitely allowed the pkg power to go higher, along with temps. I don't think I'm going to leave it raised though, as my current usage doesn't seem to be pushing the limits. How can I find out the stock value for PP0? I can't seem to find it in any of my monitoring tools.

 

odd my OP 17+ has a PP0 limit of 110 by default but it does have PP0 turbo time at 0.0010.

 

I've had my Recoil 2 for nearly 4 months now and I just noticed some weird fan behaviour. In Office Mode, the lowest fan speed you can put in 30% and it goes up in 10% increments but it seems like in Gaming Mode, it goes up in 5% increments. I know it may not seem like a big deal but it's just odd that they couldn't add that into Office Mode as well. It also sucks that the minimum is set at 30% as it is the perfect speed for the fans to keep turning off and on which gets annoying. I can't imagine allowing 5% increments and lowering the minimum fan speed would take much time either :/

 

Now I'm wondering if I changed it to 80 at some point. I thought that was the default on mine, but tbh I'm not entirely sure.

 

It was 80 on mine.

 

Does anyone have a source for a spare 180w power supply? I like to keep one packed so I don't have to crawl under the couch every time I want to leave with my LP-OP2. Thanks!

 

If I'm correct, that charger input is 5.5mmx2.5mm ( I don't have my tongfang anymore). Almost any kind of charger as long as it has that jack will work.
If you really want to go with a version that ships with all of the Tongfangs, this would be it: https://www.eluktronics.com/Mech-15-G2-180-Watt/
Getting a 230w genetic or from a name brand might be cheaper.
If you end up with getting a higher wattage charger, I would only take the smaller one to travel.

EDIT: Did a check, the Charger port is similar to a mini display port size which is 4.6 by 7.5

 

Now if we could just find one with a straight plug in.

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 "SM-N960U" using Tapatalk

 

Most of them on amazon I’ve found are straight.

 

with it being on the back of the laptop for the 17 inch I find the right angle plug quite nice as I feel id would probably bend a straight plug a lot more with the placement of the plug in

 

If a recommendation works, why not post a screenshot of ThrottleStop, etc. so other users can see what you did and what the results are? I am curious too. What does HWiNFO report for your power limits after you check the "Disable and Lock" box in ThrottleStop? I have heard that what some monitoring apps are reporting is confusing some users.

No worries. I am not offended by that.
I think I flunked out of school when they started talking about user interface design. Boring! I was the nerdy guy in the back row dreaming up new overclocking methods like a mad scientist. Once you get TS figured out, at least it works well. That is more than one can say about XTU.

That makes sense. More current going through a CPU will increase power consumption and that will result in higher temps. Same as above. If you learn something new, post some pictures. Run a simple benchmark like Cinebench, adust the PP0 Current Limit from low to high and show us what happens to the ThrottleStop reported CPU speed. It makes it a lot easier for others if they can see how to setup ThrottleStop and see what the various boxes and buttons do. I am sure many people end up at this forum without any English language skills. Some screenshots while testing are valuable.

I had a look at the Intel datasheet and it shows that the Max current for a 6 core 8750H is 128 Amps and for the 4 core 45 Watt CPUs it is 86 Amps. As long as your temps are OK, it should not be a problem if you increase your PP0 Current Limit within this range.

https://www.intel.com/content/dam/w...heets/8th-gen-core-family-datasheet-vol-1.pdf

 

Anyone have issues installing the Intel Graphics driver https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28514/Intel-Graphics-Windows-10-DCH-Drivers ?

I am, with installing the new driver as well as trying to install the driver included in the OP package, I get "The operating system is not supported" but the drivers say they are compatible for 1803.

The installed driver is dated 8/27/2018... the new one is 1/17/2019.

I did not do a fresh windows install, so if someone that did could verify that is the issue that would be great (well not really, I don't want to have to do a clean install after I have everything on here already lol)

 

No issues with the install on mine, but I did a fresh install with 1809, lol.

 

just to make sure you did uninstall the ones currently on the system first right? "These new drivers labeled as Windows DCH graphics drivers aren't backward compatible with our previous graphics drivers that we are now labeling Legacy. This means if later you want to revert to a Legacy driver you will need to uninstall the driver via Windows Apps and Features and reboot the system before installing a Legacy driver. Failure to do so may result in minor to major system instability"

 

You can also use display driver uninstaller (google DDU) to remove the Intel drivers.

 

Does this work with the Nvidia driver's as well?

 

works fine I am running the latest intel driver I just uninstalled the one that came on there. doesnt seem to effect my nvidia driver at all

 

These are the two different error codes I get.



Full Uninstall of the intel display driver and trying to install the new drivers yields the same result, and the only drivers that are allowed to install are the 8/27/2018 version 24.20.100.6292.

Fresh windows install is on the way now. (1809 so we shall see, i'll update on the situation)

 

Even after 1809, the problem persist... BUT, I fixed it by opening the properties of the .exe and unchecking the compatibility mode, for some reason it was trying to run in windows xp ?!?!!?



Drivers installed fine, no problems.

 

funky

 

Per Unclewebb's suggestion.

Using the rwdrv.sys worked for me in the sense that my LP-OP3 was no longer TPL limited to 56w.

• TW no longer flags any limit reasons in the Limit reasons window
• When using rwdrv.sys the system no longer reports power limits in HWinfo 64...
• The 8750H is able to run Cinebench at 3.9ghz all core and scores 1240-1250 in my testing at ~64w.7 (An improvement from a score of 1217 @ ~3.7GHZ ~56w)

A couple issues with reliability and rwdrv.sys

• TPL Limits reinstate on wake from sleep and hibernate
• TPL Limits reinstate on reboot/powercycle/shutdown
• TS states that it cannot locate rwdrv.sys after reboot/powercycle/coldboot

If I close TS, delete rwdrv.sys and extract a new copy and restrart TS TPL limits are removed again. The same behavior as if you first ran through the process



Regards,

Zeddi

 

If you can create an Ultra Power Saving option for student users that would make us extremely grateful.

 

Make sure you are using TS 8.70.6. The download link is in my signature. I believe the bug you found has already been fixed. Exit ThrottleStop. Download, unzip and copy the new ThrottleStop.exe into your ThrottleStop folder.

Thanks for the pic. A fully loaded 8750H with all threads reporting the 39.00 multiplier is what I like to see. Not a hint of throttling.

 

So, did Walmart completely kill this OP line? Would it be impossible to issue an replacement? I have few physical things wrong with my unit (dent on top aluminum and a warped right hinge). Only a few more days left for my return window, not sure what to do since I like this laptop. Anyone's right hinge look like THIS? It protrudes out ~1.5cm compared to the the left and makes a noise when the panel goes past 90 degrees.

 

how can I view all uploaded images for this particular thread? just trying to compare all throttlestop settings... maybe there's the best of the best.. for op 15+

 

whats a sweet spot for IccMax ?? i have it at 68.00 and my temps hover around 74-78c
35-41 watts
35 -39ghz

 

What is your goal? For maximum performance, crank it up if it needs to be cranked up.

Cooling seems decent in these laptops so why not follow the advice that @Zeddi posted above? His 8750H can run Cinebench at its full Intel rated speed without any throttling issues.

 

id like to stay just under or right at 80c max.. even if it means sacrificing lil performance.. im not all that familiar with the settings and what they do... or what conflicts with another setting.. iv watch and read the guides.. i have the OP 15+ 8750h..
looking for a set it and forget it setting.. i am 100% most of the time plugged in..

 

man my op 17+ is just super power hungry under cinnbench it will hold 72ish watts all the way threw but I mean I got a 1300 in cinbench so I wont complain to much. I run a -140 and -125 undervolt other wise if I go to low it has issues at lower clocks. but amazingly I only hit a max of 77-80 in cinnbench runs even tho im holding 72-74 watts threw out. but if I cap it and make it hold 65 watts it will hold 3.9ghz almost threw out the whole test but for right at the start which is odd it seems the first thing to get droped down by power limit it cache freq so there may be a point where the extra power vs speed hits a steep curve as cache freq being throttled doesnt effect performance alot.

 

If you use speedshift and disable Speedstep,C1E,BD PROCHOT using Throttlestop, I believe you can squeeze some more CB points.