TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

I would also check the power settings. If you switch it to MyHighPerformance you actually get worse performance on benchmarks and games. Keep it on Balanced.

 

A lot of times it can be from you plugging in the laptop and unplugging it and I've heard the term "static electricity" being stuck in the system causing it to hang up or do what you mentioned. Sometimes it won't power on at all. You can typically try to disconnect the power and battery then pressing the power button 20 times. Plugging it back in and trying again.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I think you are correct since I tested every single component and everything seem to work out just fine. Thanks.

 

When I have the volume turned all the way down I have a slight static sound coming from my speakers which has become very annoying. Is there any way to turn the speakers all the way off so they don't do this?

I can't remember if this has already been addressed but I couldn't find it looking back through the pages.

 

Does anyone know how to flash the BIOS from Overpowered?

https://www.opowered.com/support.html

 

Mate, I'm having a similar issue ... as have had some other users here in this thread. Already tried different drivers to no avail.
Running the newest Realtek HD Audio driver atm, which at least turns the speakers completely off as long as there is no audio being played. As soon as audio "exists", even if muted audio or muted speakers, they start to give off an audible buzz. The buzz doesn't change if I raise/lower volume but turns slightly deeper and quieter if I mute the speakers.
Going to send it back in -again!- to have them check and probably replace the speakers. If it isn't the speakers, there's only two more options: audiochip on the motherboard or coil whine, caused by who knows which compnents. Not a deal breaker, but maaan... I paid A LOT of money for this thing

 

I had the same issue happening every time I powered on after installing the modded BIOS, solved restoring optimized default settings in bios while reseating didn't solved. Maybe the cause was different.

 

Help needed my dear OP laptop owners!!

I had the OP 15+ laptop for about 3 weeks and I found a wierd problem.
The CPU "uncore" power consumption is always high at about 11w, and I can't get good cinebench score due to this. But when the gtx 1060 is in use or if I uninstall the nvidia drivers, then uncore power consumption becomes normal at arount 4w and i get better CB scores.
I have installed all latest drivers from the OP support site and even tried drivers from other brands and reinstalled win10 two times.

Can you check you CPU idle power consumption especially the uncore part? What nvidia driver version are you using now? This really seems like a driver related issue.

Thank you!

 

my advice to you... i was really bothered by this at first, but now i dont really hear it. you'll get used to it and wont even hear it no more. relax, the laptop is great

 

Same as me. I've noticed that when I start gaming and PC goes in windows gaming mode that should kill some backround programs the uncore power goes to stable 4/5W. Then when I close the game immidiately goes back to 11W.
The problem is surely some background program, don't know if NVIDIA related, and I've seen on internet other users having the same issue on other laptops with same CPU as this one.
Is there any program that shows real time power consumption for every single app or background process?

 

Anyone managed to unlock the MaxQ RTX 2070 to the full mobile RTX 2070?

 

Hi, I've a weird issue, maybe some one else has the same.. if I choose "Do nothing" on the lid options, i close the lid, pc rightly "does nothing" but when I lift the screen again it remains completely black. I have to shut off and restart and screen is bright again...

 

Hi, I'm not sure if you've addressed this elsewhere but I'm having trouble with the program. It keeps saying mfc120u.dll cant be found even though it is in fact there. I've re-registered it via the Run program, "regsvr32 c://windows/system32/mfc120u.dll" but nothing. I've also
re downloaded the dll and replaced it and nothing has helped. I've reinstalled RC2.0 but still nothing. It wont even open up now, just the loading dots show up and then it closes.
How can I fix this?

 

Does anyone have any recommendations for getting full or near full performance when on battery? I'm trying to us VR in battery, but the experience is a little choppy.

 

To fix this problem, install the Visual C++ 2013 Redistributable packages from Microsoft.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4032938/update-for-visual-c-2013-redistributable-package

If your operating system is 64 bit, you still need to install both the x86 and x64 versions because the software you are trying to use is only 32 bit (x86).

 

If I remember correctly, the cause of this problem for one of the users here was an NVIDIA USB driver. Try to uninstall any of those drivers, restart, and see if that solves it.

 

Ok i'm facing an annoying problem since this morning. I'm not sure my problem is really specific to this laptop or not, maybe one of you already encountered this one. If not I'll move to another thread.

So I booted up my laptop, played some music and heard a ton of tiny cracks, sounding like if I had DPC latency. It seems to happen more or less depending on the sound source and the sound itself. Happens a lot in some soundcloud piano tracks, almost not at all in Overwatch, more or less with a media player, quite a lot with ableton live... No mater what I do, they're still here. Here is what I tried:

• updated Windows through Windows update
• uninstalled any Realtek audio related software displayed into program list
• uninstalled every audio device into device manager
  
• Tried several Realtek HD audio drivers :
  • 6.0.1.8573 (last available from Realtek, wont install)
  • 6.0.1.8519 (from Mechrevo drivers)
    
  • 6.0.1.8428 (from Overpowered drivers - i'm with their 1.05 BIOS - and from Eluktronic Mech15 G2 drivers)
    
  • 6.0.1.8405 from PCSpecialist drivers (from where I got my computer
• Tried generic Microsoft High Def Audio device
  
• Switched back to original 1.05 OP Bios (had the modded one before)

The funny thing is that the sound is perfectly smooth in Mac OS, so it's purely a matter of Windows drivers.
Didn't tried yet with an external soundcard, but I'm quite sure the problem is related to built-in audio.
I never had SoundBlaster installed.

 

You probably want to let people know which BIOS/EC combination you are using. Luckily, the mentalist in me can find it out by reading your mind: XMG 1.09/1.37.09. All that by looking at your username.

Your solution is several posts in the past or here: https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_NEO_15_XNE15M18/BIOS/changelog_EC_1.38.09..txt (obviusly by using the files surrounding that one)

I may of course be completely wrong, but you don't provide much to start with, not even under which operating system you do actually do things.

 

My bios is American Megatrends inc. N. 1.02 , SMBIOS 3.1. It's a pcspecialist chassis, win 10 pro

 

The BIOS is always from AMI. That's the basic building block used by Tongfang to produce the basic BIOS for this chassis.

Each reseller asks Tongfang for specific changes (like for example the Splash Screen with the company logo at the beginning) and from this point on, it becomes a "XXX" BIOS.

Futhermore, the most important point in this equation, the EC (Embedded Controller) is something you haven't quoted and most likely the responsible for your problem, as you may have seen in the readme for the XMG specific version.

If you see page 109 of this thread, you will see that all BIOSes/EC versions are interchangeable, i.e.: you can with no concerns use something produced by "Overpowered" or "XMG", because the underlying hardware for all resellers is exactly the same (just make sure you know which model you have, which I assume is the GK5CN6Z, but it's also not quoted by yourself) . The only precaution is to make use you use corresponding pairs and try to avoid non-needed downgrades of EC (which may work, but do not necessarily have to)

 

Hi, yes I've a GK5CN6Z. How/where can I read the Embedded Controller version? My chassis is a completely pcspecialist chassis but I purchased it from a third reseller who purchase from pcs and just install the os. So therefore when it boots up there is the logo of AMI and the only information about bios is 1.02 version (unless I miss something else). thanks!

 

You enter the BIOS (F2) and the 1st screen tells you all.

 

Really ? You have a AMI "branded" boot logo and not the one from PCS ? Could you ask your provider to send you the BIOS ?

 

He probably has "Fast Boot" disabled. This shows the AMI logo and shows some text messages.

 

EC version 1.37.09

The provider hasn't the bios, pcs sent him a chassis with the bios pcs uses (AMI) but without pcs logo. Is the same bios I suppose unless pcs "branded" it with their own logo.

I don't know what is fast boot (maybe you mean the win 10 option). There aren't text messages, just a normal boot with AMI logo

 

It's a BIOS options. 1.37.09 tells you where the problem is and the cure. See page 109 for EC 1.38.09.

Be very careful as you obviously are, right now, out of your league for something like executing a BIOS/EC upgrade and recovering for a failure (sometimes they happen)

But 1.02/1.37.09 is something very smelly. You probably want to ask if they provided you with a refurbished unit, which therefore belonged to someone who played with things, which weren't undone before passing the unit on to you.

 

I found this post, seems I have an XMG EC with a pcspecialist BIOS. The reseller whom I purchased is a good guy, he purchased 3-4 tong chassis for his shop, installed the os, and sold those chassis to his customers. Than I dont'know what pcspecialist did. Officially they don't change the bios that come directly from Tongfang. We all have the same chassis but there are tons of software variants and tongfang doesn't release an official download upgrade, I think they should, just my opinion.. Thanks Paska Houso for support, do you think I sould flash bios up to 1.09 ?

But than I read this post. I have the same issue.. no setting control for the led bar on the gaming center (that is pcs 1.2.2.1). So even this 1.09/1.38.09 has some issues I suppose

 

You are reading the post from someone who experiments with a ControlCenter which is not even meant for your model 2.xx is for the RTX variants, but people use because it seems to work. Your suppositions are worth nothing because you don't have the package installed.

Use the package from XMG directly: https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_NEO_15_XNE15M18/BIOS/

(open the german readme and download the UEFI files from point 1. You probably want to use google translate for the file, it will give you a good idea as to what to do, and follow the instructions to the letter)

Tongfang hasn't sold you anything, it seems difficult how they are bound to offer you anything. Your reseller is the one who has to provide you with BIOS/EC packages. If the reseller swears it is a PCSpecialist, go for its packages. But as stated: you can choose any other package, but use combinations that come from the same reseller.

 

if I update the bios can I return to the previous one ?

 

Yes, again it's explained here.
You can downgrade the BIOS but NOT THE EC.

 

Please, read page 109 of this thread

 

I use external speakers via usb. Sometimes, the sound gets crackles and static. I have to go into the sound device properties, click ok, and that fixes it. Other usb ports work fine without problems. Another thing on a different laptop. I used an older realtek driver and that fixed problems too.

 

I also experience periodical crackles with my external USB sound card (Scarlett 6i6). Not all the time (might depend on the app(s) i'm using), and way less present than internal speaker glitches, but still quite anoying. Sometimes (maybe 2 times a week) it keeps glitching until I unplug/replug it...
You said you had the built-in soundcard crackles on another laptop fixed by using and older realtek driver, right ?

 

It was a Dell G7, after an update, the volume would drop by half randomly and slowly get back to normal. It was fixed by reverting back to older realtek driver. I googled the solution which wasn't even for the same laptop so it's a common problem.

 

All new i7 9750h models with GTX 1650 up to a RTX 2070 at CyberpowerPC https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/category/gaming-laptops/

 

Also updated here!! If I could sell my msi gp73 and overpowered 17.3 I'd jump on this deal!
https://www.eluktronics.com/MECH-17

 

My Sound Blaster Connect app says "Your audio device cannot be detected, please check your connection" Did you have to install a certain driver for this to work?

 

Does anyone have a solution to revers the FN key functionality?

 

I'm on version 2.2.3.0 of Sound Blaster Connect, and Realtek version 10.0.17763.1

 

I have a way around this. I used Autohotkey and made a script to reverse only the volume up and down and mute so that I no longer have to hold the FN key. I have not figured out how to do the same for the other keys. If this is enough for you, do a search on this thread for my posts to get further details.

 

Checking my driver version, it looked like the same version (although I think this is the Microsoft version). Do you happen to have a download link to the connect software? I couldn't find an exact version download. The one I had automatically showed up from the windows store it looks like.

 

Mine updated through the microsoft store as well.

 

WONDERFUL, thank you!
I did and that starting looking up the brightness option. Here is a link I found showing how to do it in AHK, and I have attached an ahk script that includes:
Mute
Vol Up
Vol Down
Brightness Up
Brightness Down

This works for my OP-LP2. If you have something else, you will have to modify it.

Just rename it from .txt to .ahk (for those of you that would need that info) and if you don't have it, download and install AHK first.

Now on to try to figure out the keyboard back-light. If possible to control, I might be able to add a timer so it automatically turns off the back-light when not in use.

EDIT:

If someone wants to use this ahk script and run it at login, I attached pics on how to set it up in task scheduler.

EDIT:

A big disadvantage to this method is that normal FN funtions (such as F11 being used to fullscreen chrome for example) will not work. Now changing screen brightness or volume will always be those buttons, FN key pushed or not. You would have to pause the script, which is also annoying.

EDIT:
I'm thinking tot FN key could work as a hotkey that toggles the function of the rest of the script, but illI have to see if I can find out what needs to go into it.

EDIT:
And I decided to just hard mod the key switch so it stays down all the time, unless I physically lift the key. Better than playing around with AHK scripts - it just works (even is it is a slight nuisance to lift back up. I can't do it one-handed, but I can really quickly lift it with 2.)

 

Got it working!

Had to install the audio driver from OP:
https://www.opowered.com/support.html
Specifically:
https://www.opowered.com/drivers/OP..._UAD_WHQL_White_Creative_2018_0425_191411.zip

 

Curious if anybody's found a vendor that sells sets of keycaps?

 

I replaced my TIM yesterday and thought I'd share my results so far.

I had been on Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, which game me great results initially, but over (a relatively short) time the performance degraded.
The new TIM is IC Diamond, so we will see how long the performance lasts. I didn't find it unbearably thick as some people made it out, but I did let the tube warm up under a halogen lamp for a while before I started squeezing it out.

I ran multiple sequential runs on TS Bench 1024MB to compare as a baseline.

Top core temp before- 88
Top core temp after- 79

I'll update this post in a week or two with updated temps. Hopefully this TIM will hold up a little better.

 

No vendors are currently willing to sell them on site, you have to try to email or call them.

 

Just modded my BIOS as shown here, and have disabled Hyper-Threading. Temps are much lower. I wanted to do this to see how much lower temps would be and see how gaming compared. From the last I read, HT still doesn't offer much benefit for gaming (generally speaking). I can quickly turn it back on by toggling the option in BIOS anyway.

 

Hello,
I am interested in buying this laptop. The shop that I will buy already has the new i7 9750H and the new graphics card gtx 1660. Anyone already have some temp data on these updated machines?
Thanks

 

Thanks for the reply. Do you rememeber what the driver name? I can't find it in my system. Also, can you check to see if your uncore idle power consumption?