TONGFANG GK5CN5Z / GK5CN6Z / GK5CQ7Z / GK5CP0Z

Mine too.
You seeing CPU wattage, i speaking of consumption in general, with display, keyboard illumination etc. HWinfo puts all that together in discharge rate.
Yeah, i know about updating.

 

This has been immensely helpful. The issues returned when I plugged the battery back in. Above 70% brightness it seems unstable when the battery is plugged into the motherboard. I'm looking to upgrade the battery anyway, so hopefully that's the issue!

 

Anyone able to point me in the right direction for flashing my Tongfang gk5cp0z RTX 2060 to a bios that is 90w instead of capped at 80w which is currently is?
I modified my original BIOS using Mobile Pascal TDP Tweaker is it possible to just now flash the 90w adapted bios over my original?

Or do I need to actually just find a BIOS from another manufacturer that has the 90w version and flash that? Kinda confused and any help would be great. Thanks!

 

The only way you can flash a modded vBIOS on Turing and Pascal is using an SPI programmer. Software flashing of unsigned firmware (including modded stock firmware) is blocked. I tried tweaking my 2060 vBIOS using the Mobile Pascal TDP Tweaker and the GPU gets disabled (code 43) in Device Manager. I am not aware of a stock 2060 vBIOS with a TGP high enough to be meaningful or useful. They're all totally gimped, and 90W isn't much better than 80W. We would need at least 125W for it to be meaningful and worth bothering with. IMHO gaining 10W is a waste of time that won't really provide a decent-enough bump in performance. Ideally, there would be no power limits whatsoever. GPU performance limitations would stem from voltage and temperature limitations only. Power limitations are a form of artificial gimping to manipulate customers and meter performance.

The other thing to bear in mind is the data we see is wrong. For example, GPU-Z shows PerfCap reason of "Power Limit" on my shunt-modded 2080 Ti with a 2000W power limit. It's not even hitting 50% of the power limit, but the vBIOS is telling GPU-Z something to the contrary. Got to love all of these cancer algorithms in modern firmware.

TL;DR - a 90W 2060 vBIOS won't fix that PerfCap reason in GPU-Z.

 

Hey thank you so much for this lengthy reply!
I just did a flash to an ASUS 90W version for my 2060. It worked but unfortunately my external monitor stopped being detected after that(Connected via miniDP). So I just reverted back to my original which has now restored my monitor.... Strange.

Anyway - any ideas are always welcome. Thanks again.

 

Is there anyone who has successfully flashed their RTX 2060 to another brand of vbios?
Currently I have tried the ASUS 90W but that resulted in the miniDisplayPorts not working anymore.

Now I have found a Razor vbios for the RTX 2060 which is 90W....

Any thoughts and ideas are most welcome. Cheers!

 

question
overpowered lp2 1060 version
this started about a wk ago

system will not boot while under battery power
it gets to the password screen then shuts off abruptly
system will boot while plugged in and can then be unplugged and used on battery.
battery shows full charge and i can run it down for hours.

it is a repeatable occurrence.

and i am baffled as to why.

any ideas? suggestions?

 

Anyone using Oculus Link on this laptop? I've been having trouble getting it to work on my OP-LP2, but on my Evoo 17" it works fine. IF someone has it working on this laptop, could you share the USB drivers you are currently using?

 

Hi everyone
I have a 15 inch Overpowered OP-LP2 Core i7 laptop (more details below). I would like to change the boot logo that shows 'Overpowered'. Can you guide me what steps I should take? Thanks!

Boot details:
BIOS version N.1.05
EC version 1.33.09
Build date 11/01/2018
Serial OP-LP2BK18J01233
Me info 12.0.6.1120

Do I need to be on BIOS version N.1.08 ?
https://www.win-raid.com/t4386f16-O...vo-MACHENIKE-Unlocked-BIOS-Guide-W-Files.html

 

Found a solution to keep hidden settings from xmg 1.09 and use unlocked OP 1.05. That need for me to:
Have a 45-56W power limits in office/standard mode
Have a passive cooling up to 67*C CPU degrees in standard mode, if i dont run games, fans not run at all and i having 40-55*C max. For some reasons with just OP bios, on 1.33-1.38 EC version fans is uncontrollable for tongfang soft and very loud with no loading, even if temp is 40*C.
Have a light bar options in gamingcenterU, to off light bar when i use laptop from battery. That option is missing if i run mechrevo or OP bios.
Have in fan button not fan boost, but changeable office/gaming mode, i just turned on fan boost in gaming mode in center to have 45-56W with passive cooling in usual daily tasks and 55-65W with fan boost in games. Just with 1 click.
Some features u can get through third party apps OFC or unlock xmg bios, but i tryed and it does not work for me.

If you want this, just flash xmg bios and run ECwrite from their site and after that flash any bios what you want. Settings will reset to your current bios if you will reset battery power through 10 sec pressing power button or reset bios battery. That strange feature and it explains why some people had problems even they update bios 1-1.5 years ago. That not depends from form of flashing, through windows/bios(capsule variant, like it written on .bat file), but maybe flashing with EFI will reset settings, i not checked it.

With unlocked bios i got undervolt core and uncore, turned off sata controller because i use 2 nvme drives, turned off intel management engine (minix OS inside CPU with no user access), good or not, it had some impact on battery life i believe and now its not.

 

@shtooka Thanks for this information.

If people can help me with previous post (last page), I'd really appreciate. Thank you.

 

What gaming center a u using? It can be some soft, like GPU waking to full load or something provokes high consumption. I faces it a few times when electricity is suddenly off. Or maybe something other, who knows. Maybe hardware problem. Try to run stresstest when you boot while plugged and unplug. If system is off it means cut-off on current from battery. Whose fault i dont really know.

All i could, already write you. I doubt someone helps you except Lost N BIOS, need to wait his answer. But if you do it, like he says, is desirable to have a bios programmer, just in case.

 

@Mr. Fox !!!

I changed the battery like you requested, the strobing from the screen is gone.

But good lord, it cost about as much to build the desktop I use now as it did to repair the laptop! O___O; In any case, I have a machine with killer specs for when I go visit friends and such. ^_^ Big shout out to you and @B0B for all the help!

EDIT:

OKAY SO, strobing returns as temps rise! I have no idea of how this affects the issue or the repair-potential of the system now, but as temps dip below 60s, I can push the brightness up to full almost, though I usually leave it at 60-70%, but as it pushes into the mid-80s, where it usually sits, brightness usually goes down to 30-40%. Satisfactory was the game tested. Will test other games. >.<

Bleh...

 

Hi all,

i'm a new to this forum and also a happy owner of Tongfang GK5CP6Z2 that I've just recently purchased.

I was navigating through this thread over and over again but wasn't able to find answers to some of my questions. I would really appreciate if you could help me with below:

1) What BIOS should I install or should i stay at v1.0
2) How can i boost sound in this laptop? for some reason i cannot get up and running sound blaster app
3) Anything else i should do with the laptop get most out of it? I've undervolted it, using throttlestop and MSI Afterburner and I'm waiting for Kryonaut to arrive to repaste it

 

About 2:
I completely uninstalled realtek drivers and soundblaster software, and have been using stock windows " High Definition Audio" drivers with Equalizer APO and the results are much better than stock in my opinion. Peace GUI makes it easy to adjust and using Dance preset gives quite good bass with balanced mids and highs. Most importantly, this drivers allows selecting speakers manualy when the headphone is connected.

 

Yeah, even though my machine is older, I had to do some serious tweaking and driver maintenance in order to get truly best performance out of the machine. It's pretty staggering how much you need to do in order to get reasonable performance (for the money) out of this line, though the pay-off is well worth it.

 

New drivers dated February 2020 and new Gaming Center 1.0.0.54 from Turkish manufacturer Monster:
https://www.monsternotebook.com.tr/t7_v19-4/

 

Don’t know if could be helpful but today I repaired my laptop’s (GK5CN6Z) keyboard by changing the flat cable that connects the keyboard to the motherboard. I used a standard AWM 20624 cable 40 pins, 20,5mm wide, 150mm long with same side connectors that you can easily find on Amazon, Ebay, AliExpress. Had tu bend it like the original one.
My keyboard was completely dead (no inputs and no backlight) probably because the battery swelled and pushed the cable against the back cover damaging it.
To access the connector keyboard side I had to completely remove the heatsink and the motherboard.

An image of the chassis without the motherboard, haven’t find one on the net.

 

How long did you have the computer for before the battery swelled? Also did you have the 4 cell or 3 cell battery?

I just got this 4 cell less than a year ago and I haven't had any issues, battery life has been great too so now you have me worried. The 2 year warranty on this thing is going to be up soon too for me.

 

I got mine working through the USB-C port with a powered USB-C to USB-A 3.0 adapter. The key is the powered hub/adapter that allows the quest to get enough power going I think. I tried like hell on all of the other non-power hubs and I couldn't get it to recognize it either.

 

BSOD Issues are caused by anything from bad software to bad hardware so it can be hard to tell. Do you have a minidump file or something that you can check?

Running Linux right now so i can't install it but I think that this might be a minidump analyzer tool that you can run your minidump file to find out why your PC is bluescreening.
http://www.memecode.com/docs/minidump.php

 

I have this laptop since August 2018. The battery last about an year but I probably shortened his life by using the laptop as a PC always plugged in. I'd need a way to easily disconnect the battery without dismounting the bottom panel. It was the stock 3 cell battery and I have 5 years of warranty but it's limited to 10 months for the battery so now I've ordered the 4 cell from Aliexpress, an upgrade that I planned to do anyway.

I'm also thinking of changing the cable management inside the laptop by keeping the keyboard cable under the battery instead of over it as it is from the factory. The chassis seems smoother so in case my battery swells again won't push the cable against the inside of the bottom panel that's full of edges.

 

CONFIRMED:

The Tongfang GK5CN6Z (OP-LP2, in my case) absolutely HATES Windows 10 Professional x64. I've conducted this experiment twice now over the past few months, with the same results. Loads were very much like those I ran under Win10 Home - "daily driver" type duty. But even light gaming is off the books now with Win 10 Pro, cuz the temps just skyrocket..

No matter what I've done with it, Power Plans, Game Center, ThrottleStop...these CPU temps still go nuts (i7-8750H ...routinely hits 95°)

Have latest intel chipset .inf, BIOS, drivers, etc.). It doesn't benchmark anywhere near what it did in Win10 Home. And core 0 or core 1 is always like 16°C hotter than the other five - both with, and without the intel Thermal Management Platform/Framework thingie.. (whatever it's called).

I never had any of this in the Home version.

Back to Win10 Home for me, for good.

 

I have a Tongfang GI5CN5E, the bios and ec in this thread are the same for me? Thx

 

I don't think so since they are different models

 

so further testing leads me to believe it is the battery. if the battery is more than 60% charged the system will boot just fine.
less than 50% and it will not boot. middle ground is grey area..

the weird thing tho i can boot it with it plugged in, once fully booted, unplug it and it will run fine on battery.
so BOOTING itself requires more umph than a partial charge can give, but operating in general does not.

weird

 

@shtooka
@Mr_Fox
@imglidinghere

Hey Guys,

I'm on TongFang - GK5CN6Z (OP 15+); upgraded to 4-cell battery, running dual 16gb (32GB total) sticks of Goldkey ram, popped a 970 Samsung Pro SSD in there too.

I just installed CoD: Warzone, played for 15 minutes, and then my screen started the flickering problem above 10% brightness. I had my computer plugged into when this happened. There have been no previous issues, it just all of a sudden went poof.

Now I'm having the problem

No matter if plugged into AC power or not. When connected to external displays, the external displays work fine, so i'm confidant it is not a GPU or driver issue.

I spent 10 minutes trying to trick software into the brightness you suggested Shtooka, but haven't been able to replicate your success.

I believe i'm covered under 2 year warranty given I bought computer December 2018. But I have heavily modified it, ie; new battery, removal spinning disk, added ram. Did any of you find any success?

Think I should try to do a fresh OS install and driver re-boot? Think its best to see if the interior cable got damaged?
Do I chalk this up to a crappy combo of the display + 8750, and use this as a desktop from now on, or (laptop with 10% brightness screen)... or is it worth it to try and order new cables etc//

I don't plan on playing any graphic intense games, previously only play MOBAS, stupid me for thinking I should try the free call of duty game. ARRGH!!!!!

Thank you for all your support.

 

Guys i have some weird problems with my laptop.
Whenever i unplug the AC Cable the machine dies. I first figured that it was a bad battery so i placed an order for the extended battery and just finished replacing it but the issue is still here.
Can anyone point me in the right direction ?

 

Hi friend. Does the screen flickering go away if you disconnect the battery and run only with AC power? If it does go away with the battery removed, are you able to test with the original battery?

Hey Brother Marcos... will the machine run OK if you disconnect the battery and try running exclusively using power from the AC adapter?

These problems have different symptoms, but also some similarities in that they both involve power delivery, and in particular, using the battery. I'm wondering if there are some defective batteries floating around out there.

 

Anyone have an ideas or am i doing something wrong,
I'm trying to install this hard drive (old one from another laptop) https://www.newegg.com/seagate-samsung-spinpoint-m8-1tb-st1000lm024/p/N82E16822152291
into the 2.5 SATA bay for extra storage, but it seems like the hard drive im putting in is too thick, does this hard drive not work with the EG-LP5-BK model?

 

That is a 9.5mm drive, so yes... it certainly may be too thick. According to the owner's manual it supports a 7mm 2.5-inch drive. Refer to page 14.

 

Thank you for the suggestion. Great idea. I don't have the battery with me, and we are on lockdown so i'll have to wait on checking if I install the 3-cell back in there. I'll post my reply with results after removing the battery!! I hope its a battery related issue, worst case scenario this turns into a decent desktop rig.

 

You're welcome. @imglidinhere had the flickering and found removing the battery stopped it so I am guessing this will be the case for you also. You could test that with no battery installed you wanted to find out right away, or just wait until you can put the 3-cell battery back in. I believe @imglidinhere had the flickering problem with the 3-cell battery.

I have not experienced the issue with my MECH-15. I don't know if our specs are the same or not, or even if that has anything to do with the flickering. Mine is 9750H and RTX 2060. I have the 4-cell battery.

I hope it is just something wrong with the battery as well. These systems are so thin that they might have greater susceptibility to things like EMI. I don't know if @imglidinhere tested with a layer of aluminum foil on each side of the battery or not. I do not know if that would make any difference, but if it is EMI causing the issue it might be interesting to see if doing that causes any change for better or worse.

 

@ Mr. Fox @ partyMcFly

so i have the same issue i have the Eluktronic mech 15 g2 RTX 2070MQ
downloaded COD:MW told me to update my nvidia driver to the newest one so downloaded 442.59 the minute i start playing MW my screen automatically started flickering and now wont go over 10%
tried the up/down brightness method, didnt work. Also disconnected the battery and only AC power and still flickered
Don't know what the issue is thought i was cause of the new nvidia driver but still confused.

 

@SK4DOOSH - It's very frustrating. No luck on battery disconnect myself. It doesn't seam driver related, given my external monitors are fine.

I hope we can find some resolution... I hate COD:MW right now.... Can't play my Project 1999 EQ or Heroes of the Storm!!!!

 

yea my external is fine as well.
think im at 8% brightness anything over that start flickering and then super low dim then at 100% it full on flickering

only thing i changed was the driver in the meanwhile so idk what i could do to fix it

 

I contacted OP warranty, but I definitely removed the bottom case, so i'm not certain they will honor my warranty even if I put my old battery, and spinning drive back in.

How long were you playing COD:WZ before it happened?

As much as i've read through 100s of forums its either:

Heat have damaged the display cable or voltage issue from driver update or back light failing on display due to excessive power or heat.

 

played for 2 hours. can we replace the display cable?

 

I'm pretty sure I read you can, I think they cost around $25+ shipping, but I have not confirmed that it is a solution.

 

Did the problem start when you installed 443.59 and started playing COD:MW?

What does it do if you use an older driver and play a different game?

If the problem goes away with an older driver and/or playing a different game, it is a software/driver problem.

 

Rolled back driver. No fix. The problem persists outside of games, even on launch of system (hard drive is encrypted, on encrypted screen flickering persists)

 

Have you tried positioning the display at different angles to see if the flickering problem changes for better or worse?

Did I understand correctly that the flickering does not occur with the display output on an external monitor?

 

Correct. The flickering is native to the laptop's panel. It also does not change based on positioning/angle. The screen stays fairly dim also, so as you increase the brightness, the flickering persists, does not change, and the screen does not increase in brightness.

 

Seems like your backlight is dying, hence the flicker and not changing in intensity.

Contact your seller if you still have warranty, because thats a display malfunction.

 

That not depends from soft, if you have flickering even in bios, that is hardware. Try my method one more time. Up and down brightness from 0 to 10% until you can adjust to 20% without a problem, after from 0 to 20, until 30% etc. I resolve this and all is working good about 5 months.
In my case, that was some voltage supply chip on motherboard, cause i installed second screen and it didnt help.

 

We have the same brightness issue with a TongFang GK5CP0Z. Our customer got this after connecting VR glasses. We have tried everything, but no solution.

I guess the screen needs to be replaced?

 

Long time lurker, first time poster and happy owner of a OP15+ with the 1060. I have the same problem as some of you have, my screen can't go past 10% without strobing like crazy. It seems to be a display issue, because I don't have this problem if I connect it to an external display. I live in Europe and can't send it to Wallmart for warranty. Am I condemned to using this as a desktop?

 

I have really enjoyed this computer. It's disappointing to hear so many with the same issue. If warranty fails I wonder which direction I'll go next. I am not a huge fan of these ultra-thin high powered machines, I might look into something more chunky that is base-line portable but with better cooling/internals. Any good suggestions?

 

It's hard to love thin and light notebooks, at least for me. They require too many compromises and unless you literally require something thin and light (which most people do not) due to some sort of physical consideration they're not a good option. The main attraction to this one is the low price rather than form factor.

Perhaps something like this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-g-owners-lounge.831618/page-26#post-10998923

 

Perhaps you could explain in more detail what worked for your situation.

Did you guys already try what worked for @shtooka?