Hello I really need help here, I changed my SSD for a bigger one in my Overpowered Laptop OPL-P3 that is the 17" version, the problem is the new drivers for the USB-C on the back installed by windows are generic and the USB-C isn't working properly; I used to have an HP Elite USB-C Docking station installed on it, and now after the reset, everything connected to it, becomes really laggy, specially the keyboard and the mouse, mouse stutters alot, the keyboard doesn't type sometimes or it completely goes crazy, I plug the Keyboard and the mouse on the side USB ports of the laptop and they work just fine, so the problem is those drivers I think related to the USB-C, since the drivers for the HP Elite USB-C Docking Stattion are up to date, and dowloaded from the site. If anybody else has this laptop and can share the drivers of your USB-C on the back I would really appreciate it since, having the keyboard and mouse on the side looks horrible and it is pretty annoying too. PLEASE HELP ANYBODY OUT THERE. BTW i checked the official website and now it's gone, so I don't think I will get help from there.
Update:
I also noticed the OP Control Center Used to thore more Power Settings at me, now I oly have Standard and ECO, the front RGB doesnt work even after you toggle the on off switch on the OP Center, Fan settings are grayed out you cannot select office mode basic setting nor advanced settings, this leads me to belive that something is wrong with my power maangement settings, reason why before the reset the USB-C could send some power out to the USB-C Docking Station, now it wont, unless I have the AC Adapter for the HP Elite USB-C Docking Station it won't work, before it would output power and I am 100% sure about this, cause i had it for months running like this, what could have gone wrong? what drivers do i need to go back to how i had it before? Please Help!
https://ibb.co/Vg2dgZy
https://ibb.co/Qbs0BLd
https://ibb.co/kxg58LV
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undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
So my heatsink seems to gotten some coloration from liquid metal... The cpu keeps heating no matter how many times I repaste.
So since I figured the heatsink is done, I tried to scrape the colored area (it sits on the cpu die) and put paste on it.
Now the cpu heats up instantly.
I figured I can't restore the uneven/scraped/colored area anymore. So it's time to order a replacement one.
Anything else I should I try ? -
I always use a 1000 grit sandpaper to sand off the residueundervolter0x0309 likes this. -
undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
thank you -
undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
Still heating up
Good tip regardless! Thank youAttached Files:
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undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
This wouldn't be a thermal pad not placed perfectly on a VRM? Correct? I never had overheating due to that before but you never know. Especially as GPU is running as cool as a cucumber.
Also I believe i sanded it enough. Like its diminishing returns at this point....?Last edited: May 12, 2021 -
undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
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undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
1152 on CB R15 multicore
Used to be
1328 with LM
During gaming I have to lower TPL to 45/65 watts. It used to be 75/90 watts. With that wattage, temp keeps going up. Btw the LM residual was also on the gfx part of the heat sink. So sanded that one too.
I’ll report back when I get the replacement.
The copper rubbing off I believe might be the culprit. -
This is probably a longshot, but I am wondering if anyone has been able to obtain any information on the 2-year warranty offered by Overpowered. I have been unable to reach Overpowered's customer support via phone or email and Walmart has been useless. I tried contacting EVOO as well and they told me that I have to contact Overpowered and that they are not the same company. Every time I try calling the Overpowered customer support number, I get no dial tone and the call disconnects after about 10 seconds. I've tried calling between 10 am and 3 pm and still no luck.
The only information I can find is from the product page on Walmart.com: https://www.walmart.com/ip/OVERPOWE...256-SSD-2TB-HDD-32GB-RAM-Windows-10/887474519
Does anyone have any ideas? I really appreciate any help.
Edit:
In case anyone encounters the same issue I did, I finally was able to get a hold of Overpowered customer support via their phone number after 49 attempts. They provided me a copy of the LP-3 user's manual which does provide the terms and conditions for the warrant but states "1 year" instead of "2 year." I asked about this discrepancy and the representative told me that the warranty was initially 1 year and was later extended to 2 years. I asked if he could provide that information in his email with the copy of the manual and he said he could not.
If anyone is curious about fixing your laptop out of warranty, I was also told they do not provide any out-of-warranty services because they don't handle money.Last edited: Aug 2, 2021 -
Sooo my GK7CP7S just decided to black screen on a game so I had to hold down the power button to turn it off. Now it won’t turn on and has been like this for 15 min….anyone got an idea?
Mesut: the power light flashes for a millisecond and then nothing happens… -
undervolter0x0309 Notebook Evangelist
Battery plug is in the middle right on top of the battery when you open the laptop up by removing the bottom panel. -
Hey, also looking for anyone with documentation of the 2-year warranty. Trying to get the laptop repaired through a credit card extended warranty. Thanks!
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Today I've open up my Medion Erazer Beast X20 (Tongfang GM7MG7P) so that I can check the stock thermal paste and repaste
I didn't find how the Medion would look behind the heatpipes so therefore I put here some pics for someone which will look for that (maybe will help).
Overview:
Backside:
Inside:
Open heatpipes:
To my surprise the CPU was with LM, but somehow it looked like the liquid metal was spread on the edges and made like an oval ring. Can this be caused during the transport ?
Also I have noticed that a spot on the processor (some sort of "V" shape in the middle) didn't have that much LM. Can this be caused by lifting the heatpipes, or was not quite optimal there?
On the other hand the GPU's paste was looking good imo.
I have cleaned the GPU , put the paste on the heatsink (I don't like the idea to scrub the paste on the chip side), and also I tried to climb back that LM from the sides on the top of the processor (with some cotton sticks).
Maybe the results could have been better if I would have invest longer time in this procedure
The paste I've used (after warming up properly):
I have read that it's one of the best for the low pressure heatsink in laptops and doesn't pump out (will see in time).
I am not a gamer maniac, just play some Dota 2 from time to time, but I dislike hearing the coolers working hard) As you could have seen I have lowered the PL1 to 30, PL2 to 40 and PL4 to 70.
Also lowered the fps in the game to 90 (instead of 120 default) + shadow to medium.
Before repaste I had roughly the temperatures: CPU - 75C / GPU - 73C
After repaste (and LM work) the temperatures didn't go more than: CPU - 72C / GPU - 71C
The coolers are acceptable with the noise, but they are mostly because of PL and fps/shadow tweak.Last edited: Dec 29, 2021 -
Anyone knows how to remove the lcd screen from the tongfang gk7cp7s? I'm having the screen flickering/flashing/strobing issues that a few people have mentioned on the forum and reddit. It stops with I lower the brightness to around 10%
Unfortunately I'm out of warranty and I just want to make sure it's not the cable behind the screen. I removed the bezel and the screws at the bottom, but the screen is not coming off. Is it glued?
If anyone has a guide on how to remove the screen then please share. Thank you! -
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Also managed to fix the flickering.
It wasn't what I, or any owners would expect, the 40 pin ribbon cable for the keyboard was the culprit. It was damaged and causing issues with the brightness keys (fn+brightness up, fn + brightness down).
Give that a try, it's a cheaper way to try than buying a new screen. But I have to say, if the screen is fine on low brightness, the screen is not the issue. It may just be the same ribbon cable issue like mine. If it was the ribbon cable of the screen, any brightness level would be affected, not just higher levels. Do you understand where I'm coming from?
I hope you get it sorted. If you need to know which cable I bought from aliexpress, let me know and I'll send you a link. -
https://serving.photos.photobox.com...8bab28d0377ca4e453d74970b7cc6cddede001ff1.jpg -
Oo, I think yours is a different model. But give it a try still.
My keyboard ribbon cable is the one next to the battery. For yours, I think its the same. I've circled it on the image.
https://ibb.co/wcZx1vD
If I were you, I would take that ribbon cable off, count the pins, take note of the model (the text written on the cable) and search online.
But here is the one I bought, 40 pin:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrk1ytO
Yours maybe like my original one where the cable is just the normal flat one, but I bought that one that is divided and wrapped by a black tape.
Also check if yours is type A or type B (reverse sided or same sided pins).not sure what the difference is but as long as its similar to yours then go for it.Last edited: Jan 22, 2022KORD_12.7 likes this. -
Also, because this forum will sadly be deleted end of the month, I can be reached on reddit: jand1; or discord: jand1#3733
Let me know how it goes!KORD_12.7 likes this. -
TONGFANG GK7CN6S / GK7CP0S / GK7CP7S
Discussion in 'Other Manufacturers' started by sicily428, Oct 17, 2018.