TONGFANG GK7CN6S / GK7CP0S / GK7CP7S

2004

 

That could be the problem. This is the most broken, problem-causing version of Windows 10 ever released.

 

I tried to re-paste my EVOO 17 for the first time. Even after being heated up by an hour of gaming, the heatsink refused to come off. Tried to use a screwdriver to budge it on up, but somehow blew a circuit under the biggest CPU screw point. I thought my laptop was as good as dead, but somehow it still works normally. Have no idea what might've been affected and don't know if I want to try again.

 

Did you unplug the battery before working on it? That's the second step after removing the bottom cover...

 

Yep, I always do that. I think my mistake was trying this right after shutting the laptop down after it was on and charged all day... I'm not sure how electricity in motherboards work, but it might be that there was some charge leftover in the motherboard itself. Anyways, I did some more thorough testing and it seems all my ports, devices and CPU/GPU are working as normal so I definitely lucked out.

 

Hey,

I have the all plastic GK7CP7S. Does anyone know if there is a metal/aluminium/whatever bottom plate from another model that would be interchangeable?

I also seem to be running into some weird thermal issues.
When I repaste the laptop with thermal grizzly temps are absolutely amazing, below 75 degrees on CPU with a -0.125 undervolt and 75w TDP setting in prime95, it's able to sustain 4ghz. After just a couple of days though it starts to degrade and within 2 weeks I'll be hitting thermal throttling upwards of 97 degrees. When I remove the heatsink and inspect the thermal paste I can see it got squashed out and there's barely any on the CPU anymore (GPU is totally fine every time). I tried different pastes, different levels of tightening the screws etc but nothing seems to help. I inspected the heatsink if it's warped or anything but it looks fine. Any ideas? Having to repaste every 2 weeks is a real pain, was thinking of getting a graphite thermal pad or something.

 

Try getting a thicker and more viscous paste. I recommend the new cooler master mastergel maker.

 

i've had similar issues using mastergel maker. after repasting the temps were good for a week or two then thing went south real fast the week after. i ended up settling on krynaut which lasted a month or two before things go south again. The tripod heatsink for this laptop is not balanced and be seen clearly when you removed the heatsink during repaste.

i would suggest you try something that will not degrade forever, something like carbonaut. it's a carbon sheet. temps will not be as good as paste but it will be more consistent and longer lasting.

 

Are you talking about new or old kryonaut? The new one comes with a flat nozzle. I've used old kryonaut before and yes that doesn't last as long as keyonaut but the new one is significantly improved over the old one. Temps are lower and its also a lot more viscous making it more resistant to pump out which will help with longevity.

As for carbonaut, on laptops you can make it perform as well as liquid metal. I use it myself on the gpu. All you need to do is to lap the heatsink until you get a mirror finish.

 

Honestly, thermal grizzly kryonaut is as viscous as it gets I believe.

Yeah thats what I thought so too. Honestly the tripod design is super bad and annoying.

Any specific experience with the graphite pad? Honestly thinking of getting one since I dont wanna repaste so often... Does it stay in place?

Seems like having to repaste because the thermal paste gets squashed out is a common issue, so annoying....

 

i'm talking about the new kryonaut with the flat rubber nozzle. it's a lot longer lasting than coolermaster master gel maker but it still wont last 6 months long. about 2 months down the line u can see temps rise significantly

 

try watching this

 

Far from it, its one of the LEAST viscous pastes on the market.

Yes I'm talking about that too. The new mastergel maker runs cooler and lasts longer than that kryonaut.

If you want good temperatures and something that'll last forever just lap your heatsink to a mirror finish and use carbonaut. That's the best option short of using liquid metal.

 

Interesting vid, love Bob.

Ended up buying the pad but sadly seems like the carbonaut didn't do anything, it was far worse. I cut it into perfect shape and tightened the screws, don't think I did anything wrong. First is after 90 minutes of gaming using degraded kryonaut, second is after only 30 mins using the pad. GPU was 70 degrees and 72 degrees max respectively. And as a comparison, if fresh kryonaut is applied CPU doesn't go over 75 degrees.
Any more ideas? It's driving me nuts.

 

Take it apart again, massage the back of the cpu/gpu (whichever you used carbonaut on) with one hand while pressing down on the heatsink side.

 

Apologies but I don't exactly understand what you mean. I can't exactly massage the backside of the cpu without taking out the entire motherboard. Is this what you mean?

 

Yes

 

Tried doing this but this seems straight up impossible, I can't take the motherboard out with the heatsink attached, nor can I do it in reverse order. If I take the motherboard out without the heatsink this would do nothing, even if I hold the heatsink against the motherboard while I massage it, I'd have to take the heatsink off again to install it.
What would this accomplish anyway?
Any more tips/ideas?

 

Massaging the back of the cpu/gpu helps to compress the carbonaut so that it conforms better to fill gaps between the heatsink and cpu/gpu. It helps a lot in my experience.

If that's not possible then just try to apply pressure to all corners of the heatsink and hopefully the contact improves.

 

So far I've tried several different combinations of tightening the screws in varying degrees of tightness and trying this but I seem to be getting the best results by just tightening the screws all the way down. At least this way peak and average temperature between cores lies within 2-3 degrees which tells me pressure is evenly distributed. It's still really high though with peak temps of 90 after 10 mins of gaming.
Do you think an extra washer for even more pressure might help? Or do I try liquid metal at this point? Maybe a more viscous thermal paste like you suggested earlier?
Feels like buying carbonaut pad was a bit of a waste.

 

Also to put it in charts just how much of a difference it makes since I tend to log everything:


Green line is after a fresh repaste of kryonaut. As you can see temp doesn't exceed 73 degrees during a 5 minute prime stress test.
Red line is after 2 weeks of applying kryonaut. This is the point where if you remove the heatsink, you can see all the thermal paste has been squished to the sides of the CPU.
Blue line is using the carbonaut pad. There's barely any difference.

 

Thermal cycle it for a few days and see if the temps improve. The expansion and contraction of the die and heatsink squeezes the paste/pad. The thinner the pad gets the better it will perform.

If that doesn't do anything you'll need to get a more viscous paste. New mastergel maker, IC diamond, phobya nanogrease and Kingpin KPX are all quite viscous.

 

i think your temps are in line with bob's findings. his max were about 90C+. important part is, the temps across all cores are very uniform.

 

I'll try this and report back in a few days. Thanks for your help so far.

If it was 90c max across the line I would simply be annoyed but this is after only 5 mins of prime95 blend test. If I let it run longer it gets hotter and starts thermal throttling. In game after just 15 minutes of playing it goes up to 95 degrees and therefor throttles using the thermal pad. Yeah I have uniformity across all cores but if I thermal throttle anyway what's the point? After a fresh repaste of kryonaut CPU doesn't go above 75. This also means fans don't spin as hard. It's just extremely annoying to me the laptop is designed this way. Seeing perfect temps after applying thermal paste but it only getting worse every single day to the point of thermal throttling and fans full blast...

 

Sadly thermal performance didn't get any better at all. I ordered some IC diamond as it seems the most viscous while still remaining a high performer. I'll report back in a few days.

 

Bummer

Hopefully IC diamond works for you.

 

The IC diamond arrived already and I did some testing.
To start things off, when I removed the heatsink the carbonaut pad was kinda stuck to the heatsink. It was still in the perfect spot so it didn't move, also when I tried to remove it it instantly tore as well. It also left a spot where it was placed. Is this normal behavior?
Applying the IC diamond was really hard, you weren't kidding about the viscosity. Let's hope it means it will stick.

Here are the CPU stress test charts for a 5 minute prime95 blend test:


As you can see, IC diamond seems to perform around 2-3 degrees worse than kryonaut but still over 10 degrees better than the carbonaut pad. Also my fans never went full blast unlike with the pad.

Here are CPU + GPU stress tests:



Performance here seems to be about 5-6 degrees worse than kryonaut but still better than the thermal pad while keeping up a higher overall performance. GPU in this chart does need a repaste though, so maybe we can subtract a few degrees here.

Lets hope performance doesn't degrade over the next few days with IC Diamond. So far I'm satisfied.

 

That means that you had good pressure on the carbonaut pad. Looks like lapping the heatsink to a mirror finish is a must before using carbonaut even with good mounting pressure.

 

So far temperature has degraded by about 3 degrees. Still under 90 though so lets hope it doesn't get any worse.

On a side note, I'm still on bios 1.03. Is there an updated version I can use somewhere? My exact model is GK7CP6S with 9750h and 1660ti. Over on this forum https://www.win-raid.com/t4232f16-S...ns-of-rebranded-TONGFANG-chassis-systems.html
My model isn't listed, closest one is GK7CP7S with bios 1.53. Is this compatible? It doesn't have to be unlocked, stock bios is fine.

 

I didn't follow the thread completely, but I've got my Clevo P970 running great. If I remember they are very similar, although I have the RTX 2070 Max-Q, but do have the i7-9750H. From what I read the TONGFANG version has even better fans/cooling.
I never hit 90C anymore during gaming, although stock I did have similar issues (getting so hot left hand side of keyboard above CPU would burn my finger holding down keys).
I'm using Thermal Gizzly Liquid-Metal, imo the biggest thing you can do is CPU repaste, GPU undervolt using MSI Afterburner (20F Drop and running Core clocks +400 Mhz faster), CPU undervolt (I use ThrottleStop ,much more reliable than Intel XTU, -0.125 mV) & unrelated to temp issues Disable & Lock Turbo Power limits. I did update to the latest BIOS so that may have had an effect, but the former things made the biggest difference.
GPU doesn't go over 76C under max load 100% (90W)
CPU can sustain max load 100% without exceeding 90C (although this is usually at +55W)

During gaming, 90C temps remain to be seen although with stock setup quite normal under max load. A cooling pad dropped temps 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit, and I also added one of the coolers that is on the side CPU exhaust vent. With these additional items I can maintain +70W CPU load without exceeding 85C although this is during benchmarks with the added heat from the GPU (rather worth noting the CPU & GPU on my model share one heat pipe) which can have its pro's and cons.

I know I dont have the same model laptop as you but I know these things can help you so hopefully these will be helpful. My liquid metal was dried up (for lack of a better term) after a year and I had 25C lower temps during gaming after repasting.

 

Hey, thanks for posting your experience.
Both my CPU and GPU are already undervolted to their absolute limits. Also your temps seem similar to mine.
The real issue is that on a fresh repaste, no matter what kind of paste I use temps are always amazing, with the CPU not going over 80 degrees and fans staying relatively quiet. After a few days or a few weeks however, performance degrades to the point it's not sustainable. Depending on the type of paste used, this could mean 95+ degrees on the CPU with thermal throttling and fans on max.
I came to realize that this is just because of a very badly designed heatsink on this laptop. The only thing I haven't tried so far is liquid metal, something I won't have access to for the next 3-4 months. I have already spent over 50 euro purely on cooling supplies however and I don't have high hopes.
The only thing I don't have is an external cooler but I also don't want that, I bought a laptop specifically to be portable/non bulky.
I had hoped a bios update would bring some kind of improvement but it seems impossible to track down a correct version, my laptop model seems to be very niche with its 1660ti.

 

i had the exact same problem as you. no matter what kind of paste i used, the temps would be great (75-80C) under full load CPU for the first few days then it slowly creep up to over 90-95C after a week or two. i've tried kryonaut, mastergel maker. they all behaved the same. the tripod heatsink design is really bad

 

What about Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut pad? Someone tried this?

 

You need a very even heatsink to use carbonaut to its full potential. I lapped my heatsink to a mirror finish and in that case it performs as well as Liquid Metal without all the downsides.

 

I have a problem. My laptop screen won't stop flickering when the brightness is too high. It is unusable at higher brightness. But when I lower the brightness to the lowest possible setting on battery, the flickering stops. When plugged in, I can up the brightness by one notch. The cause of all this is that while I was playing a game, suddenly, a power outage occurred in my area. Anybody know a possible fix for this?

Other details that might help: I'm currently using Throttlestop. I had it set to an "overlock" setting while playing the game. In the settings, I setup a battery profile that automatically changes it to my "low power" profile for battery mode when the laptop isn't plugged in. Is it possible that the sudden shift in throttlestop from the overclock setting to the low power mode when the outage occurred caused the flickering? My laptop was also hot while playing the game (about 75-80 C). Also, I plugged the laptop to an external monitor and it is normal on the monitor (laptop is still flickering though).

The laptop is Eluktronics Mech-17 G1R, i7-8750h, RTX 2060, 1080p 144hz, bought last March 2019.

 

I have tried it in a previous post but sadly, for me temps are even worse than paste. I included some comparison benchmarks in that post too.

 

Do you tried to lap heatsink to a mirror?

 

I recently bought a overpowered 17+ on ebay, used but practically new. it was an amazing deal, but i have the famous rgb backlight not working. I've been researching and trying fixes: updating BIOS, changing control center for the one from other vendors, reseting windows, disabling/enabling rgb in the bios, I even opened it up and clean & reconect the ribbon cables for the keyboard and lightbar. all without luck.

the only thing is that when i updated the bios from N.0.08 (stock) to N.1.08. the Lightbar started working again. i tought this was a hardware problem but what happened to the lightbar gave me some hope.

I think this problem happens mostly with the overpowered version of the chassis, so.. does anybody knows if i can flash a bios from another vendor without making the laptop a brick.
or maybe someone already knows a fix for this specific machine.
by the way the model is GK7CN6S.

I will really appreciate some help, im happy with the machine but i really miss having a backlight keyboard laptop.

 

I have Walmart EVOO EG-LP6 (or Tongfang GK7CP0S i7-9750H (2.60 GHz) RTX 2060) laptop.

Using "CrystalDiskMark" my nvme drives shows very low "SEQ Read Speed":

1st drive 1TB Samsung 970EvoPlus: seq read 2459MB/s
2nd drive 2TB Samsung 970EvoPlus: seq read 2553MB/s (Completely empty drive)

Supposed to be around 3500MB/s!

What could it be?

Can any one post their speed please with "1TB or 2TB Samsung 970EvoPlus" using CrystalDiskMark soft?

 

512gb Samsung 970EvoPlus:

 

Wow. Big difference!

What could it be?

What version of "Intel RST" do you have? (mine is v17.7.0.1006)

 

Mine is 17.9.1.1009.

Also be sure that TRIM and OS optimizations are working fine. I'm using "O&O Defrag" with "SOLID/Quick" optimization in it.

 

I found solution!!!

Somehow win10 (build 1909) does not use good driver for NVME, after I install " Samsung_NVM_Express_Driver_3.3" from samsung site, speed is back to normal!

Result:

 

Hi guys, my tongfang gk7cp7s from PCSpecialist is having webcam issues. Does anyone have a guide on how to open the bezel so I can check the cables?

Or if anyone has experience in opening up the lid of the laptop?

I don't want to open it up as I only have experience on custom desktops, and opening up the bottom of this laptop to replace the paste, but not the lid as I don't know where to start.

Any help/suggestion would be nice. Thank you so much!

 

I've got a question. I've got the GK7CP0S (EVOO LP6), which has an i7 9750h. When I am running ThrottleStop TS Bench with one core, it only shows the multi as "44.88 x 99.768", this obviously results in lower than 4.5ghz. The same is the case for any core activity level, the expected multiplier is always reports less than.

Is this normal, or is there something I need to do about it?

 

It's normal because bus speed don't exceed 100mhz, it's always run about 99,8 mhz because of BCLK spread spectrum enabled.

 

Same here i got the 8750H 2070 full. My webcam stopped working a month ago or something but it was at the same time i installed a ssd and also changed to xmg bios and unlocked it so i thought i did something wrong on that process but ive tried everything and came to conclusion it has to be hardware connection but i really dont fell like opening this baby up as i am really enjoying it so far. But i guess ill have to. Ill start digging up for it, have you found anything so far?

 

nah, it's not the bios, ive unlocked mine about a month ago and the camera was fine. mine just died last week. its blurring it.
i contacted the reseller and they said you can peel off the 'bezel'. I tried this and yes its easy to peel. but i think that you have to be careful otherwise the glue may wear off by how many times you use it.

I think I will take the risk and just peel it off to see. i can just glue it in with something else. if you know any good glue for computers that are not permenent then let me know.

I'm wondering if its the ribbon cable somehwere.

 

Thanks @KORD_12.7 for that answer.

I have another unrelated question. Is there a way to dynamically change the keyboard lighting color to match the Windows 10 accent color? When my wallpaper changes I have it set to auto change the color. It would be cool if this hex value could be auto loaded into control center or something and change the keyboard color to match.

Any way to do this without a bunch of trouble?

 

Did you end up doing it? I've been busy at work but I'll have some free time this month so I'm thinking of giving it a go but if you've done it and could share some tips I'd appreciate it.