Tongfang GK5C6X - Evoo gaming 15" EG-LP5-BK - Overpowered V 2.0

I'm assuming this is the screen I want to adjust that, but what exactly should I change here?

 

Personally I would suggest changing long power max to something lower while in games / GPU is loaded at the same time, eg 45 or 50

 

Wont lowering the value cause it to throttle even more? I thought the idea was to decrease throttling

 

Has anyone been able to get their package C-state to go deeper than C2 (as per the battery optimization guide on these forums)? When idling my CPU package power can't go lower than 1.7-1.8W and I'm fairly certain this is the reason why. I've tried multiple different drivers as well as a clean install and nothing has worked so far.

 

HWInfo64 isn't showing the P1 volt limit changes. I dropped it to 50 in TS, but it didn't register in HWInfo.

I'm assuming this is just an issue with HWInfo not displaying it properly I guess.
I still keep getting thermal limit throttling, even though my avg temps are around 73 under load. How do I prevent a core spike from causing the CPU to throttle?
Do I need to disable Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework? "DPTF"

 

for those of you undervolting the cpu, i have a question.

i see the laptop ships with -50mv undervolt from factory.

lets say i want to get to -100mv, do i i have to set the undervolt in bios to 0 and then -100 on throttlestop? or can i just leave -50 in bios and do a -100 on throttlestop?

 

I believe throttlestop will over write the -50mv

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

The factory BIOS wont allow you to under volt any more than the -.050 mv. As far as I know you need software such as throttlestop to go further

 

I just received the EVOO today.

Random notes:
- Running 3dMark Timespy, CPU/GPU temperature was around 80C with stock settings (50mV undervolt).
- The stock BiWin 512GB M.2 SATA SSD is okay speed (500/500 MB/s sequential read/write), but its temps are at ~55C, which seems high.
- 2x 8GB Goldkey DDR4-2666 SODIMM
- Intel 9560 WiFi

One thing I would like help with is fan speed control. With a 125mV undervolt, the CPU/GPU temperature is now around 70C, but the fans are probably at 100%. I replaced the BiWin SATA M.2 SSD with a Samsung PM981. Naturally, I lost all the EVOO specific software, and they do not seem to be available online. Is there any other software to control the fan speed curves or perhaps where to get the EVOO software?

 

You could try the Illegear Prodigy command center - I tried it on a clean install and it seems to be pretty much the same as the EVOO software. Neither of them give you fine control over fan speeds but you can select between office, gaming, and turbo modes.

Are you able to get deeper package C-states with the Samsung SSD? I'm wondering if the BiWin drive is the culprit for keeping the CPU package stuck at C2.

 

I'll give the Illegear a try.

I'm not sure what to look for C2 package state. All I know is the Samsung PM981 is literally running 20C cooler, according to whatever sensor they use.

 

Are you using ThrottleStop to undervolt? You can check your C-states in that program as well. Click the button that says "C7s". There's info there on the C-states of the individual CPU cores and then of the entire CPU package. Mine has 0% for everything except C2, which means it's not going into lower power states properly.

See section on C-states in this guide: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...e-on-windows-enabling-deeper-c-states.815602/

 

I am indeed using Throttlestop to undervolt.

I clicked the C7s button, and my values while typing this:

Core C State Present
C3 ~ 0.9; C6 = 0.0; C7 ~50-70

Package C State Percent
All 0.0

 

Interesting - so your package C state just says 0% under total? Are any of the individual package C-states (C3-C10) ever not 0% for you?

 

Looking for some help here, cause I'm a complete rookie with this stuff. Something isn't right, cause there is some kind of throttling going on and I don't know what to do.
I even ran Aida64 with the "Fan Boost" on which kept temps around 63, so I dont see how its thermal at all...
Here are some screens, hope someone more experienced can help me out. I feel like my clocks should be higher than 3.2 gHz too.

 

Maybe the counters are wrong, but now I get C3 and C6.

I'm also going to try modifying the power limits. 60W/75W is for PL1/PL2 seems ludicrous, IMO.

 

Anyone know where I can buy the larger 4 cell battery for this chassis?

 

eah im thinking bout getting one for use at home but with the 1650 as i already have another laptop with a 2060 and would like the 4 cel battery

 

Interesting - that would suggest that the BiWin SSD is indeed causing power consumption issues.

This is what my computer looks like - as you can see, I'm stuck in C2, anything from C3-C10 is stuck at 0%. If you're getting deeper C-states (from C3 on), then I imagine your PKG power is less than 1.8W when idling?

 

I think there are some issues after the laptop is brought out of sleep mode.

Prime95, I used to get all core 3.7GHz with package power of ~60W.
...
After I came home, laptop was slept/hibernate whatever.
...
Prime95, same test, getting all core 3.0GHz with package power of ~45W.

Hmm....

Edit: Not sure what I did, but now I can't get the CPU to boost properly.

 

How are you changing the PLs? I tried in THrottlestop but they didn't take. Or at least did not display in HWInfo64.
What are you changing them to?

 

@speedy21589

PKG Power looks exactly like yours....it bounces around between 1.8W and 12W



All my other TS screens and HWInfo is post a few posts back if it may help you figure this out.

If you do please let me know, as I'm merely a beginner to this type of tweaking.

 

Based on what @dexvx has posted, it seems the BiWin SSD is preventing the CPU package from going deeper than C2. He replaced the BiWin with a Samsung PM981 and is reporting deeper C-states than what we are getting (though waiting on confirmation that his CPU package power therefore goes lower than 1.8W when idling).

 

Well. I don't want to put any more money in to this thing yet.
Is there anything detrimental about this?

 

The only reason I've been interested in the C-states is for battery life. Being stuck at C2 has no other consequences other than higher power consumption at idle.

That said, even with being stuck at C2, I brought this laptop to work today and used it for very basic office tasks for about 90 minutes, which consumed ~30% battery. So it doesn't seem so terrible, at least for me.

 

I have been messing around a little and have been able to set my PLs using the TPL tab in throttle stop.

Test with 60W PL1 and 70W PL2 (power limits circled in yellow)



As well as with a 56W PL1 and a 65W PL2 (again circled in yellow)



@NorseKnight I believe the reason your PLs don't seem to be taking place is because you may need to enable "Disable and lock turbo power limits" in the right side of the FIVR tab of your throttle stop profile AFTER making changes to your PLs. I believe what this does is prevents any secondary power limits such as from the turbo, game, and office mode from overriding the throttlestop settings.



From what I can gather as a newbie myself is that it is best to leave your PL1 at something in the lower power 45-56W range to prevent CPU heat throttling, but the only time my cpu got close to the max clock of 4.0GHz for a 6 core load is when it was drawing 70W, where I was getting around 3.93GHz. So for long term gaming I'm guessing most don't set their PL1s to such a high wattage such as 70W due to not being able to sustain low enough temperatures to not throttle at that level.

There's one question I have right now though. To get max performance while gaming, should I set the PL1 at the highest wattage possible at which the CPU doesn't thermal throttle in a combined CPU+GPU load (gaming), or are there other factors at play other than temperature in regards to wattage?

 

Does anyone know if this model can be flashed with any of the other vendors' BIOS to enable eluktroboost/overboost GPU performance?

 

Hi. You can use the BIOS from other vendors. However that is not a firmware feature. It is a hardware mod.

 

Ah, I didn't think it was hardware based. Found a post of yours where you presume it's a resistor mod. A friend got this 17" and I thought I'd suggest this. That's a bummer.

 

Yes, that is my presumption. @B0B has one or more YouTube videos that talk about it being a hardware tweak, but the details are not disclosed. I wish I knew exactly what it is. I also wish I knew exactly which resistors to apply a shunt mod. I would do it without hesitation. That has been highly effective for me on desktop 1080 Ti and 2080 Ti GPUs and I know a couple of guys that have done it on Clevo 1080 MXM cards.

 

Mine just got delivered today. Pretty excited about it - but would love a larger battery. Scanned through this thread, but didn't see anyone post the information for the 60+ whr.

Anyone with a link to a battery upgrade?

Thanks!

 

I have one of them in my MECH-15. There is not a lot to talk about. I have no idea how it compares to the 3-cell battery in terms of run time.

This is probably the battery you need. If there is any question you can always call them to verify before purchasing. https://www.eluktronics.com/4-cell-batt-mech-15-g2-mech-17/

 

Thank you sir

 

Looks like it out of stock though, wonder when it'll be back

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

I'm not sure, but probably not that long. I'm sure they would be glad to take a phone call to find out, maybe pre-order and have it shipped as soon as it arrives.

At this point I am almost wishing I had the smaller 3-cell battery. I think I would benefit more from being able to use the 2.5 inch drive space since it is extremely rare that I use the battery to run the laptop. The main reason I purchased this was for business travel, but I still almost never use it running on battery power even while traveling. A second 2TB SSD in that space would come in mighty handy.

 

I'd be willing to trade ya if you interested and I can pay you the difference assuming this model of battery fits

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

So. I put in an extra 1tb m2 sata in the PCIE port next to the installed SSD.

Motherboard doesnt recognize it. I flopped the new drive to original SSD port. Bios sees it.

So then I tested putting the original drive in the secondary port, bios doesn't see it. Is that port not capable of being used as an MSATA / SSD drive port?

Thanks all

 

Anyone running dual nvme? If so, which brand/model? I plan on ditching the factory drive but no so sure after seeing xtravbx's post

 

I ended up replacing the drive with a 1tb but the second slot still does nothing when I plug a drive into it (including the original). Bios doesn't see it.

 

only the m2 closer to the battery can accept m2 sata. both can accept nvme pci-e tho, so don't get confused.

 

I want 1 drive for os/apps and another drive for docs/data. Is that possible? Could I put a 970 Evo Plus in each slot?

 

You can yes. Both slots support nvme

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

So, I could put the factory Biwin 512 gb M.2 ssd in the slot next to the battery and a Samsung EVO Plus in the other slot?

 

I can confirm the BiWin SSD prevents the laptop from entering deeper C-states. I swapped in an old Toshiba NVME drive from a different laptop and this is what I'm getting now (able to get to C7 on the package, idle draw down to 0.5W package power, 5.6W total at about 40% brightness):

So the battery life on light use actually should be quite good when optimized (in the unrealistic scenario of just letting it idle until 0%, should get over 8 hours easily).

 

Does this model support NVME RAID (0)?

 

So got mines in, cpu/gpu temps jumping up to 85c after an hour of play while playing Innocence: Plagues Tale on ULTRA Settings tracked via Afterburner

No thermal throttling and it keeps around 60fps

Undervolted by 1.25 via TS

Is this normal or did I get a lemon?

 

Power draw? Clock speed?

 

Has anyone successfully booted from a usb stick formatted with anything other than fat32? I tried exfat and ntfs but when I do the usb drive doesn't appear in boot mgr (F7)

 

After a bit of a struggle, I finally was able to complete a clean install on my New NVME SSD. However it seems like the fans now starts kicking in earlier as compare to before I did the clean install.

Also is the Nvidia Drivers the only drivers that I need to install?

EDIT: It seems like I may have botched the installation , I was browsing on chrome and
all of a sudden blue screen of death. And now the computer no longer boots up by default to the NVME SSD. It is trying to boot up to the original SSD and will only boot to the NVME if i select VIA F7 during bootup.

 

How do I get power draw?

Clock speed? Ah, well I didn't OC it, it's just the base clock speed but 100% usage on GPU and 50% usage on CPU on Ultra for Innocence - Plague - 70 average FPS