Razer Blade 15.6" (GTX 1060/1070, 2018 edition) Owner's Lounge

So i have looked into the bios file (1.03) and it seems like its pretty easy to mod. There are several Options that could be enabled, while the most interesting would be the overclocking menu (for undervolting).

If some1 is interested in such a bios file i could Upload it and make it availible for public.
This isnt tested by me. My Blade comes this tuesday when i will be testing it myself

 

I wasn't able to get the overclocked menu to be enabled. It is it's own menu, and can't be turned on on the main setup menu. Probably can be done with a more in depth edit.

 

Have you considered the Asus GM501? I know it isn't as sleek, as it has thicker besels, isn't per key rgb, and shorter battery life, but I'm very pleasantly surprised how much better it feels than the Razer. It runs MUCH cooler out of the box, has a full GTX 1070, the screen has very minimal bleed (my Razer has very noticeable across the entire bottom of the screen) and the keyboard feels so much better to me. As soon as I touched the Razer keyboard, I knew I didn't like it, still not sure why, but it just doesn't feel nice to type on, and I make more mistakes than usual. I'm still testing them bisth out, but the GM501 is definitely a strong contender in this space.

 

I hadn't actually. I may go that route if the alienware doesn't live up to my expectations. I have that coming in on Monday with both the qhd and uhd display. I'll probably decide between those two unless they fail like my last Alienware Laptop on arrival. I think my expectations should've been lowered. I just am really bummed a $2,500 laptop performs like this. I wish they at least had a qhd on this Razer

 

What did u do to try to enable it?

 

Generally to enable things, you change them from Default to USER, but it seems it also has to be available on the menu above it. In this example, if you look at the Setup folder, it lists the handles and control group structures. Within that list, Overclocking and performance menu is not available. So just going to the overclocking and performance menu and changing it's options to USER doesn't make it show up. On other systems, it was under the Advanced tab, and could be enabled. I think what needs to be done is to edit the Setup tab menu to included the Handle (1389) and Control Group Structures (OverClocking and Performance Menu). This may be doable with hex editing of the rom file?

 

Did you check the details menu and edit it from default to user before re flash it again to enable switching on/off OC menu? Forgot the right folder name when I moded my old blade 14. You flashed it already right?

 

I think I'll go with the GM501 or GX501. Cancelled my preorder, just too much overheating and RMA for me...they STILL did not learn from their mistake. Thanks community for the tons of info as always .

I'll undervolt and LM or kryonaut the GM/X501, and probably will OC the 1070 that's not what bothers me, it's the stock temps that counts in the end, the temperature decrease offset triggered by the repaste/UV is generally the same across the barebones.

 

i see what u mean... i tried to compare two files with hexeditor, but its only garbage. I tried to locate the value for the advanced menu in the setup tree and found it. But its not possible for me to edit or enter new values

 

Yes, it flashes fine. I can turn on most things, but the overclocking options do not get turned on.

 

On latest Razer bios update on Blade 2017, i had to turn on some option on bios menu to show overclocking menu. That was after I changed the default bios (default to user) overclocking menu and flashed it, and I was also curious why that OC menu didn’t appear (on old bios was appearing after flashing), but after looking Bios (F1/esc after boot one), I found yes and no options to show/ hide OC menu.

 

Dave did a big fat comparison, and guess which laptop he liked most.

 

just saw that and can’t wait mine come
Mobile tech review made also Blade 15 smackdown compharison with Surface Book 2.

 

So has anyone actually tried LM with this thing yet?
I am very tempted to try it but a little uncertain as it would be my second repaste on a laptop ever.

 

Try turning on speed shift on tpl menu on throttlestop first, just saw someone on Reddit he get 74 Max after that even a bit performance decrease, before he got max 92. Worth try imo, way safer than LM re-pasting.

 

You wouldn't happen to have a link would you?

 

I saw this on Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comments/8pjvbv/razer_blade_15_liquid_metal_application_with/

Seems like it was effective.

 

Hell yeah. That was a cool video and good to see the best one won

 

LM ordered.
Should arrive by Tuesday!

 

Wow.. those are fantastic temp drops...

 

Thanks - what does SpeedShift on Throttlestop do exactly?

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comments/8rn65m/rb15_13954_firestrike_with_max_temps_of_74c/

I don’t know but it’s on my list things to do when mine comes.

 

Hey folks, that's my thread. According to the throttlestop guide, Speed Shift is a CPU level dynamic clocking feature built into 6/7/8th gen intel CPUs. The guide basically says it should always be on, and the author isn't sure why some companies ship products with it off. Cross post from reddit:

After some tinkering, I've gotten a firestrike score of 13,954 with a max CPU and GPU temps of 74c! I'm running -130 undervolt on the CPU, and no undervolt on the GPU. It turns out the key was the Speed Shift setting in throttlestop.

My initial test after finding the stable undervolt gave me a 14,475, but the CPU hit sustained periods of 92c. Not a catastrophe, but too warm for my liking. Fan's sounded like a helicarrier.

Next I tried disabling turbo on the CPU. Gave me an icy cool 67c max temp on the CPU, but it took the score way down to 11,603.

Finally, I tried turning on Speed Shift - EPP (and re-enabling turbo). Note that this also requires enabling Speed Shift in the TPL menu. This gave me a 13,954 in firestrike, with the CPU maxing out at 74c. I'm thrilled to give up ~500 points on the firestrike score for this much temperature efficiency.

Note, in pretty much all cases, the GPU never seems to go above ~75c, so I haven't spent any time worrying about it.

Hope this is useful!

 

Also note, I'm getting consistent results with the 128 Speed Shift setting across 5ish FireStrike runs. I haven't tried any other Speed Shift settings, any form of turbo control or GPU clock adjustments.

I would encourage people to add this setting to the mix on their tests. Given how cool the GPU runs, I bet we can squeeze a bit more performance out of these things without breaking 80c.

 

Thanks for sharing mate - will try it out tomorrow and hope for a nice Father’s Day result!!

 

Something like this I prefer to hear rather than re pasting it with LM. It was similar with previous Blade 2017, Software tweak without dropping performance and keeping good temperature. Do you have AC Origins or FFXV? Those games are also recommended to test cpu on real gaming experience. I believe there will come another advance users who discover some new improvement.

 

Where do you manually set the speedshit value? I can only see an editable range in the TPL menu, but that's a min/max range, not a value...?

In any case, keeping the 1-255 range, I've just tested this SpeedShift-EPP setting checked to "ON" (and in TPL screen as well). I used a -125mV undervolt on the CPU, Synapse Gaming mode and Autofan.
Scored 13,591 fire strike (16,099 gfx and 12,908 physics).

Certainly runs a lot cooler. The CPU maxed at 80, but most of the time was in the low 70s. GPU ran cooler too, and fans stayed a lot lower. I have pasted the HWinfo64 graphs for individual core temps and core clocks. You can see the core clocks are still very up and down despite the low thermals (which is why the fire strike physics score is still quite low at around 13k).

Also noteworthy is that once this SpeedShift-EPP setting is made, the cpu NEVER exceeds its power limit (per hwinfo). See attached hwinfo graphs and outputs.
https://imgur.com/a/N8V7VLp

EDIT: [STILL TESTING] I'm testing this while gaming with a CPU intensive game, Path of Exile. The FPS is significantly lower with SpeedShift-EPP enabled. Core clocks are significantly lower, they seem to throttle down a lot more during gaming with this setting enabled (hence why it runs a lot cooler).

EDIT 2: By setting the SpeedShift range in the TPL menu you effectively choose the range, or value, that you want your clock multiplier to be at (up to its maximum, in our case 41). I set my range to, say 35-35 and the clock speeds on each core pretty much (only one or two spikes down on each core) stayed at 35x the whole fire strike run - this is the first time I've managed to keep each core's clock speed nearly constant during a run without the wild swings in clock speeds seen normally.

 

Here’s what I found from throttlestop guide thread about speedshift. Different cpu maybe different value.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-496

 

Mine still hits 90 in firestrike with speedshift on.

 

I'm very interested in results from this. I have been talking with multiple companies and YouTubers about LM option for this machine (personally have never used LM).... I have nothing but a resounding no no no from everyone and LM is not a good path to go down for a laptop. Am I convinced yet? Not entirely but the 100% that had advised against it doesn't help the cause. Keep me posted.

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What are your other settings: undervolting, turbo limiting, synapse mode, fam settings?

 

I just applied LM to my EVOC the other day. It's not difficult (i have a long long history of doing this back in the day going back to the early 90s.. but I hadn't done it in a long time. Used to reapply TIM and overclock my desktops all the time. Got out of it when I started using laptops) you just have to be careful and do the proper protection methods. Being patient is KEY. Don't rush.

1. Use conformal coating to protect any nearby exposed metal solder points or components. This is a good one that handles high temps. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B07BSK5S7B. Don't get it on the die itself, just surrounding it. I suggest buying a high quality small brush or use a good cotton swab, the supplied brush sucks. Wait 15 minutes at room temp for it to confidently tack free and do a 2nd coat for good measure. Wait 15-20 more minutes before moving on. Be in a well ventilated room, it has strong vapors.
2. I didn't do this myself but adding some scotch 33 tape or something surrounding the die might be a good idea after waiting for the conformal coating to tack free.
3. Some people even go as far as putting a hi-temp foam barrier around the die. Look this up..
4. Buy alcohol pads to clean up. Buy a lot of them. Nothing worse than running out of them and you need to clean up.
5. The conductonaut comes with a separate nozzle to suck up excess. Use this if you have to.
6. Pay strict attention to the only use a PINHEAD size amount at first on both the die and heatsink. If that turns out not to be enough due to die size you can always add a pinhead more, but only do it after you spread it. Use the grizzly provided swabs (the black ones). Buy an extra 3 pack so you have enough. They work really well to spread the LM and won't leave any cotton fibers behind. Go slow and careful. you have to press a little to spread it so take your time. If there is too much product on the die it can squeeze out and this is not desired.You only need a coating. I recommend not adding another pinhead and using any extra from the CPU/GPU using a fresh swab instead. You have a total of 4 surfaces, so you can swap around to even out distribution. Be very careful not to put too much area on the heat sink side since you won't have a good boundary to use as a guide there aside from discoloration. Putting some marks on the heat sink where the previous TIM was where it's obvious the die impression is might be a good idea. It's better to put too small an area on the heat sink than too large. Again make sure it's just a thin even coating.

The main points are, cover up nearby exposed contacts, don't use too much pinhead size goes a long way, clean the heatsink and die super well beforehand, and be extremely patient with yourself, don't rush.

 

I'm currently being asked by user Prema to supply a copy of my Blade vBIOS, here was basically what he sent me, but its not letting me run his backup tool. Is this even safe? Never done this for anyone before.
https://mega.nz/#!3N8hTLAb!Xq7i6vuEoUkV7WGiK3Dr0VDmDi8dX5Dy8yZ6KUjRbdw

 

-140, balanced in Windows and synapse. No limits to turbo.

Turbo off I stay under 74.

 

@Prema is a legitimate BIOS modder. He partners with resellers like HiDevolution to supply unlocked BIOS. If you're up for it working with him on the Blade 15 BIOS would probably be a benefit to everyone.

 

His reputation is through the roof, I don't mind helping but I lack experience is this area, and Windows isnt showing a program to open his tool. Can anyone else help with this?

 

What's the file extension, sorry on my phone..

 

removed.

 

Two things.

1. Double check to make sure speed shift is enabled in the TPL screen in theottlestop, not just the intro screen. Make sure the SpeedShift range is at least 1-41 (or keep it at default 1-255).
2. Set synapse mode to “Game” and use auto fan.

Rerun fire strike now (keeping your cpu/cache undervolt). What’s your max core temp now?

 

1 - thats how it was set.

2 - set it that way. max core temp was 94.

 

What I can say is that the processor cools down WAY faster with the TPL speedshift setting on. Before it would kind of linger, seems to allow itself to declock better this way. Guy who was maxing at 74 should post some screenshots. So far we've only seem he say that's what he's getting. Perhaps he has magic silicon.

 

I'd love to see some screenshots as well. I have to drop my clock speeds down, but the temps and FPS are much better. Meanwhile, i can run 3.6ghz on all cores and use gaming mode, not throttle at all and get 87C.

 

I'm interested to know, what do you think about using Kryonaut on the GPU and Conductonaut on the CPU? My reasoning behind this is that since LM is more at risk of spilling in a notebook, especially one that spends a lot of time bouncing vertically in a backpack, Couldn't you just apply it to only the CPU instead of both? My points are...
-The GPU cools plenty fine already in the Razer, the CPU is whats melting.
-There are virtually no diodes/resistors on the PCB around the PCB, while the GPU is clustered.
-If I can drop the CPU temps and still maintain my current 70C's on the GPU, I'd be not only thrilled, but much more at peace knowing it's much less risky.

Input?

 

Definitely could do that, there are no rules. If that makes more sense go for it.

 

did you manage to extract your vbios

if not, try the latest version of nvflash: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash/

 

It's actually very common to not bother with LM on the GPU. Honestly now that I have Kyronaut on both my CPU and GPU I will say it helped the CPU way more than the GPU.

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Hmm, that's a bad paste job then I think - to get 94C with an undervolt and game settings for fire strike is too high.

 

Yeah it all worked out, they got what they needed. Thank you

 

I feel like I'm still having to downclock too much, even with kryonaut installed. What CPU temp are you comfortably getting while gaming?

 

Don't be surprised if you still are seeing 90s on your cpu. These 8750H processors are absolutely beasts and overpowered for thin and light laptops. Every and I mean every single thin and light are seeing 90s and 100s with the 8750H. If you want me to test a specific game to compare with you lemme know.

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