honestly the 1060 max q running a 1080 panel is a perfect combo. the only time i think you will see it under perform is if you pair a 1060 max q with higher res like 1440p and above. 1080p is ezpz for the 1060 max q. i do have rb6 but i havent played it in a while. if you want i can try it out with certain setting and tell you what frames i get
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on my pc usually all on max, except for anti aliasing wich is on fxaa , zoom in dof wich is off, and texture flitering on linear
.. fov is 82
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okay ill give it a go i just started the download of rb6 and will update you on what frames i get online gameplay
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thanks mate
also temps and noise would be a nice thing to now aswell
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i can measure temps(ill go all stock with no undervolt on the cpu and gaming mode on for the gpu) as for noise i dont think i can help you out but im probably the biggest weiner when it comes to sounds and as long as its air pushing out and not a vibration on the fan making a high pitched sound it doesnt bother me, luckily the rb15 i have only makes the sound of air lol
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wow Rb6 cooks even in the loading screen wow lol, so on cpu with no undervolt and gaming mode on im getting 90 to 103 fps, bounces around there never really goes above or below (temps are cpu-88c and gpu-79c but the cpu does thermal throttle down to 3.4-3.5ghz) and with the undervolt of -125 on core and cache with gaming mode on i get the same fps 90-103(cpu temps-85c and gpu temps- 78c but the cpu maintains 3.8ghz
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sounds good enough for me
.. i would propably limit it to 60 anyways that should give me a bit more thermal headroom
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yup seems like a pretty demanding game and i didnt see any hiccups or stuttering what so ever, super smooth but i would definitely limit some fps and keep your components cool, even limit the boost to like 3.2ghz im sure you will still have enough power
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i always limited my games on my old blade
shooters to 60 and all the other games to 45 ( the nvidia battery boost and cool quiet mode thing )
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On the GS65 the hidden BIOS menu can be unlocked straight away with only a set of key combination, no need to flash or anything. That's interesting, by what you mentioned about it subsequently lowered the TDP, do you mean it sometimes drop the multiplier on full load even when you have a lowered TDP report? Could it be that it's thermal throttled? On the GS65 with the lowered TDP report it sticks to the multiplier forever if the thermal is allowed.
To increase the temperature limit, see if you have this option in the menu, for example it's 7 in this picture, this means the temperature throttle kicks in at 93C.
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Vistar Shook Notebook Deity
True, forgot about the key combo for the MSI for unlocking the BIOS. I don't actually have a RB15 with me, only had one for few days from a friend for repasting with LM a few weeks ago, so can't confirm if the IMON offset will work on the RB15. @stranula is the person who mentioned he was trying this method on his RB15.raz8020 likes this. -
Razer Blade 15 DBrand Skin Matte Black No logo Cutout
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My bad, yes the lower half of the questions were for @stranula, hopefully what he's trying opens up the gate to extensive tweaking.raz8020 and Vistar Shook like this.
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As you gain experience, I got mine very young fortunately, you learn the concept of "if you smelt it you dealt it", a complex acceptance of responsibility theory.
The way it applies to laptop repairs is if you don't open it up, you won't get blamed for breaking it, and when it comes to $xxxx laptops, it can be a very expensive DIY faux pas.
Potential outcomes:
1) You fix it without breaking anything. - Wasted time on your part, no need for the vendor to do what you paid them to do for you. Seems like a win, set's you up for next time when you think you can fix the next problem - over-confidence that gets you into real trouble next time.
2) You don't fix it due to:
a) Can't figure it out.
b) No parts to fix it, long wait to order parts, longer wait to order correct parts
c) Part you thought it was, even the correct one, doesn't fix problem.
You give up and can't fix it, but you have pulled apart the laptop and made tool marks on the screws and other components, perhaps changed the paste - cleaned up the overflowing paste so as to immediately clue in the vendor technician that you have "been in there messing around".
The easy return "no questions asked" time expires after 15 days. After that expires you can't return your broken unit for another new unit. You are forced into a long RMA waiting time, 2nd RMA, 3rd RMA, and finally you wonder: "Why oh why didn't I return this lemon for a new unit when I had a chance in the first 15 days?"
RMA: All repair technician's know they have an "easy out" to refuse service under warranty to owners that open it up and mess around inside the laptop. You end up paying for the repairs. This happens frequently when the problem is expensive to fix and damage can be blamed on the owner that now must freely admit to opening the laptop on their own to "look for problems" - also known as "looking for trouble".
Or, you put your foot down and explain that you are:
A) Smarter than the average inexperienced non-professional untrained electronics technician that has also never done laptop repair a day in your life for pay.
B) You didn't mess anything up, you were just looking for obvious problems - like badgers in the power section, or mice nests in the fans.
Usually they will just have a laugh and fix it for you, but if you did actually "mess something up" they will charge you to fix both problems.
Most adults when faced with unacceptable broken products they paid $xxxx's for, will simply return it and don't even think about putting on Super Man's Cape, spittin into the wind, and trying to pull it apart and fix it on their untrained own.
Rather than be surprised he is returning it without opening it up and "messing around", think of it as an example of an intelligent grownup dealing with an every day problem: what to do when something you bought fails.
Us professionals don't "mess around" inside equipment we can service on our own, because we know better than to accept responsibility and transfer the blame and costs to ourselves.
Only the inexperienced will try to repair their own laptop, gaining experience to the point where they realize all along that it was a bad idea that exposed them legally and financially for basically no gain. Be a hero to yourself and don't "mess around inside your laptop".There are few circumstances where it's acceptable to do this kind of DIY repair in a work environment.
If your company has paid $M's for equipment, and $xxx,xxx's for service contracts - over years in most cases - you'd quickly lose your job for taking it on yourself to fix anything internal to that hardware. Instead you call in for service on-site.
For companies that pay extra for an additional feature: the "on-site self-support" option, there will be onsite swappable hardware and spares for anything that can be swapped, and whole spare computers as well. I usually try to get this set up at clients as it can shave hours and days off of repair times - ending downtime - and I also have standby spares configured to power up for immediate capacity to put into service.
These days, these will be virtual servers, and involve no onsite hardware support, which is very nice.
Of course you could get lucky and find those badgers and chase them out on your own, good luck with that.
Last edited: Jul 19, 2018 -
Very nice but for real effect can you do lid open and camera looking straight on say 5 feet away.
That will show us what other people will see. -
Anyone reading or watching this YouTube guy might be disheartened but there is a reason behind the swap out delay.
Its not that Razer won't do it as there have been others on this post who are on their 3rd its the fact they don't have any.
Now this is for a couple of reasons,
1. as its a completely new design there will be some real world testing that creates initial higher than normal returns.
I truly believe they had enough stock for this but not for reason number 2.
2. Japan parts factory flooded.
I read this on the Razer forum.
It explains why there hasn't been any for purchase on there website for many weeks.
It f....ing annoying but has happened to me in the past when buying V1 of high tech products just released.
Also the fact we live in global market times where 1 place makes bit X and another makes Y and when either of them are taken out there's a world shortage.
Round up. I would expect everything to go back to replacing quickly and support being able to offer more in a few more weeks. -
Have anyone found any reliable workaround for the 35w TDP throttle? I’m eyeing the RB15 for a while now and this really concerns me.
George24 likes this. -
Well hopefully @stranula brings back some good news, it seems that he's got access to the hidden menu in some ways.raz8020 and Vistar Shook like this.
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I returned the RB15 because of the 35W throttling issue and Razer's inability to fix it promptly, or return emails about it. That being said, I will try to provide the information that I have about this. I think I quoted all of the messages since my last message and will address them.
The CPU was throttling at 35W normally. When I appropriately changed the IMON settings, it resulted in throttling at 25W when I set them to report 1/2 and 15W when I set them to report 1/4. So it was of no use.
I had to modify and flash the BIOS. This does not require "unlocking" because the BIOS isn't locked, it just has user access to some of the settings set to off. Didn't try to change the AC loadline, but Vistar Shook says it is unrelated to Razer laptops (below)
I did that, it then throttled at 25W instead of 35W, so no useful impact.
This is correct. Very Easy to do. I turned on A LOT of settings that could be related and they had no impact on fixing the 35W throttling. This includes changing the TDP to 55W, adding another cTDP set to 45W, changing the original cTDP to 45W, and many more. End result, nothing I tried had any positive impact.
As above, when I reported 1/2 TDP, it throttled at 25W, and 1/4 TDP throttled at 15W. It was not thermal throttling, I made certain of this. I have the GS65, now, and yes, those settings you mentioned work correctly for it.
As above, the IMON offset did not work for the 35W issue because the TDP limit lowered with it.
It won't. I changed A LOT of settings, most will do nothing beneficial.
Easily accessed as described above. But ultimately I found no use in it. I will post relevant links soon.
As I said, I returned my RB15 solely for this reason. Everything else was great, but to throttle at 35W was unacceptable. Beyond that, contacting Razer was a hassle. I reported the issue to them, and they said they would respond when they heard from the Dev team, and if not he would respond 3 days later with an update. Instead what I got was a daily automated email from Razer saying something along the lines of "we haven't heard from you in 24 hours, so we assume your problem has been resolved. If you don't respond in 3 days we will mark your ticket as closed." I responded daily and get the same message every day. Finally, after 2 weeks, my replies had no impact, and they closed the ticket. As for the guy who said he would follow up with me, no response. I emailed him after 4 days and he said he hadn't heard from the Dev team. I emailed again after another couple days to no response. Poor service for an expensive and well designed machine is a real shame.Last edited: Jul 19, 2018 -
This whole breaking the cable thingy used to exist back in the COMPAQ, IBM T40 era (I still have the latter). I mean I have opened my R4 a fair few times, yes these similar cables are there, but they aren’t placed to get abused like this vital cable... razer should really do something about manufacturing, QC and warranty, I mean offering 1 year on a 4000 AUD laptop shows razer’s trust in its own product.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Hi,
If you get the 60hz model - could you post photos of the screen? I had 2 blades here (also Germany) and sent them back because of the backlight bkeed, my hope was that the 60hz display is maybe better in this manner . -
FYI for any who may be interested, when i raised a ticket about the cable to razer, they promptly replied and suggested I RMAed the laptop for a replacement- shipped it back to them today. Seems to suggest they agree it could cause problems or further deteriorate with time. They warned me it will take time to replace given stock issues, but not sure how long. Hopeful to have it back before I go on vacation in a month.
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Just letting you guys know that Razer is still tending to the power throttling issue they have not forgotten. I updated some of the staff today and it is not going unnoticed.
Sykue, Arondight, Assault and 1 other person like this. -
Thanks for the explanation. In the spirit of the more people raise the issue the more attention it should get...I will call them and submit a ticket (as my laptop also throttles <35W regardless of thermals). May I ask you what the best/clearest way to explain the issue is to the level 1 tech that I get (and should I request to speak to a higher tier)? Thanks again.Arondight likes this.
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Heads up for those who are OCD and anal about scratches/smudges/resell value, Dbrand has the lovely precise exterior skins we all know about, and now Decalrus has palmrest, bottom screen bezel, and lid skins (without logo cutout). I already have the black camo skins, but i may pick up a palmrest skin here soon.
http://www.decalrus.com/store/product/identify/model/735/type/1
https://dbrand.com/shop/razer-blade-15.6-skinsPetrov likes this. -
Silly question - but do these skins (DBrand and Decalrus) negatively impact cooling given they insulate the shell..?
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I can't confirm. I think my personal system is warmer natured compared to most people's in here, but I test by hard gaming results. Im suspicious it traps in heat but can't prove it so I'll say No.
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BTW been meaning to touch on this.. THAT NEW MACBOOK PRO THO?! I9 Can't even hold its 2.9Ghz base clocks, I'm seeing reports of 2.2ghz. And yet our machines can (toasty) hold 3.9ghz. New perspective glance for me there, razer ain't so bad.
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i got 99 problems but my rb15 aint one
Not a silly question at all, here is a video testing that theory also happens to be on a Razer laptop with dbrand
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I didn't get the bottom skin precisely for that reason. I haven't watched the video posted above, but nevertheless I thought the bottom skin would be providing some kind of insulation we don't want.
I got the camo skin with no logo cutout (as this is my daily driver for business too) and it looks great. I was worried the camo would look a little dodgy for 'business', but it's actually kind of subtle, looks great, and isn't OTT. -
Quick question for those that purchased the Western Digital SATA m.2 2TB drive.... Why did you guys choose this over the similarly priced Samsung 2TB 860 EVO SATA m.2?
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Not sure if this has been talked about im sute it has but cant find it in thread, is there any locations to apply thermal pads without taking the heat sink off to lower temps? Like SSD or other locations thanks and also I found this link on Amazon for fujipoly pads is this good? Fujipoly / mod/smart Extreme X-e Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 11.0 W/mK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSJRH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wzuuBb474PHB3
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You can apply thermal pads to the SSD to reduce temperatures significantly, and stop the drive from throttling. Try 1.5mm to the storage chips and about 3.0mm on the controller chip. It's easy and gets great results and you do not need to remove anything except the bottom cover of the laptop. Also, 11.0 W/mK will get the job done with ease, I'm using 7.0 W/mK pads and they keep the drive in the 40's (celcuis) almost all of the time.
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Do you think 1.0mm 11w/mk will suffice? Maybe stack two peices or should I just get the 1.55mm? The shipping is faster and it's cheaper for the 1.0mm lol
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You'll have to triple layer on the controller and double layer on the other chips, make sure you get enough
fedd12233 likes this. -
You need 3mm for it to touch the back panel.. which is what you need to drop temps 20-30c on the SSD.fedd12233 likes this.
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i got the 1.5mm, salada said maybe i could stack two pieces, is that right?
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Yup that's what most of us did... works great!
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Apparently someone on reddit got an unreleased BIOS update from razer support and it reportedly fixed the power throttle issue. Anyone here want to give it a go?
Also it seems like not everyone is having the problem. Some people can get 45w long term under performance profile in synapse.Last edited: Jul 20, 2018 -
That update was to fix some USB issues not throttling... Came out a while ago. I've been using it for weeks but it's not to address power limit.
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Thats a bummer. So for now the only way is to pull the trigger and hope to get the ones that don't throttle?
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They are working on the power throttling issue so it should be resolved sooner than later. There isn't any machine that's not doing it... Just a lot of people don't know how to accurately test for it and "think" it's not.
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Were you really able to add 185 to your 1070 core and 600 on the memory?! wow, mine won't go past 128 and 400
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Silicon lottery
Saw someone could even reach 230 core on benchmarks, mine was only 200, though i don’t use it on daily usage for better thermal... maybe gaming mode (100/300) for some shooting games to have more FPS.
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Well, I know the lottery but that is just too much of a diference, I am on LM even. What is the ambient temperature you are running to achieve +200?
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You have to remember... That if you actually monitor you clock speeds in game you won't actually get a +160,+180,+200 that you have set through afterburner. Just because it's "holding" that OC without crashing doesn't mean that with a load you'll achieve those speeds. Most people that run a 150 will see similar fps in game than those running 220 for example.
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CPU? I think I posted here somewhere, was low 90ish? Not quite sure though, from the performance it has no throttle issues, did that just for testing my Blade. Now with summer room temperatures it may be variants, saw sometimes high cpu temperature even mid 90ish in a long gaming season but in other day it was fine under 90 around 85. I don’t open my Blade yet btw.
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Sure it throttles according to the temperature table on the vBios or just straight crash if it si too high. I set my OC at +128 core and +384 memory, to be safe, if I try to go above 130 on the core it crashes the memory I didn't try above 400 just because...
I was referring to the ambient temperature you are running your Blade, ie. my ambient is ~24C. -
A lot of people got that link, I posted it over there. And no, it doesn't do anything for the throttling.
raz8020 and Vistar Shook like this.
Razer Blade 15.6" (GTX 1060/1070, 2018 edition) Owner's Lounge
Discussion in 'Razer' started by X33nbat, May 20, 2018.