Take Full Control of your Razer Blade w/no PL Throttling

I am having this exact same issue (Razer Blade Stealth GTX 1650). I open AFUWINGUI v.5.13.00.05, click Save. It appears to export correctly. I then open the .rom file using AMIBCP v 5.02.0023, change only the 7 total flags to USER (5 in one screenshot, 1 on both of the others), then click save. I then open the saved file in AFUWINGUI, click Flash, ensure only Main BIOS is checked and go, and it immediately gives the same "State: Failed" "Address: 0xFFFFFFFF."

Here's a link to the modded .rom file:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cNuiRvIjCR5pBYxA0ta0WY8P56RWFg6_/view?usp=sharing

 

BIOS is locked, you have to flash it with programmer.

 

del

 

Is there a reason my BIOS would be locked while others aren't? Is it because I updated it or something? And a physical programmer is the only way around this? That sounds much riskier than the software update method...

 

Actually it is safer, because you can return old one even after bricking your device. What do you think they do in service when have such case

 

I am having such a question. My Blade 2020 with moded BIOS can not undervolt. What I mean to finish TS bench with 6094 I can have -30 for core and -30 cache that's it. For cinebench I can go -100, -100. So TS bench is using AVX or smth? Or just do some dark voodoo tu ensure stable undervolt like small FFT from PrimePI?

 

Does someone got a working undervolt for his Blade 2020 Base Model? I get everytime an bluescreen

 

del

 

I got an working undervolt with -0.080V after an ME Update

 

Hi everybody, its my first Post.

are there instructions on the Internet specifically for the Razer models? or some kind of general guide to it? I've already seen a few Videos but was unsure which procedure is the right one. is it that "CH341A" chip?

Its a Shame that razor locked It.

 

This whole thread and other one for throttle is full with pictures and step by step guides and instructions

 

Thanks for reply but
I mean how to use and program with a physical programmer

 

Which model do you have exactly? I've just read through several massive threads on here and noticed a few more detailed posts about how to do this with certain models, so I might be able to help point you to them.

 

Thanks you so much!
That would bei great. Its a RBS early 2020 with GTX 1650ti with BIOS 1.04. RZ09-0310

 

Ok, I think the only one I've come across so far that seems to be for that particular model is this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...l-hidden-options.830993/page-29#post-11041270

That seems to show the things that are specific to that model (i.e. location of the chip etc), but yeah, you'll probably have to combine that with other, more general instructions/videos etc about how to use the programmer itself.

I think this would be one of the other how-to posts that they mention, which is perhaps a bit more comprehensive (and has links to even more information), but obviously isn't for your particular model: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...l-hidden-options.830993/page-26#post-11036406

 

Thank you so much! Thats exactly what i searched. But one little question: He said the BIOS Chip "W25Q128BV" is the right one. How can i Tell that this is also the right one for the stealth? Maybe the AMI Tool can Tell me? Or what you think?

Thanks again.

 

I have no idea about that bit sorry, I haven't actually tried doing any of this on mine (and it's a late 2019 model anyway). In the howto post for the 2020 model, it says the software "Will auto pick right chip (ends with BV)", so I guess that would be consistent with it also being "W25Q128BV".

But I think I've also seen some other people mention in their posts that their laptop had a different chip from the usual one for their model anyway, although at least the physical location of it on the board should always be the same within each model. Maybe if you look very closely at the chip it might have a code or something printed on it, which might either match with the chip name in the software or you might be able to Google the code to match them up?

Also another thing to note (if you haven't seen it mentioned already), for when you attach the clip onto the chip, pin 1 of the chip is not where the green dot is (if there is one). It's where there's a small round indentation on the chip (if there is one). But Razer also seem to mark pin 1 with an arrow on the board next to it anyway, pointing to that pin, so that's what I would go by.

 

Thank you again! I watched a bunch of videos about thos Programmer. Its not that hard to understand. I think all problems are solved now.
Except for the physical programming, it is the same process as with the AFI tools only. Look that it's the right chip - look that it has the right name - Look that the bracket is right around (pin 1 on red) and then extract, change, and replay. I think I can do that.
I will report by success. Thanks again!

 

Hi again,

So i tried to flash the chip but in the CH341a.exe there is no "W25Q80DVNIG" Chip listet, which i have in my RBS. Any ideas? Also i found another Chip in my board: W25Q128JV. Haha yes, its getting complicated.

I also tried to use 1.4. but nothing works. The Q80 Chip is a 8MB Chip and the Q128 is a 128MB chip
Hmm i think i found a solution I found something in an HP forum that apparently the ASProgrammer 1.4 can read these chips. now the only question is whether the BIOS is on the 8 or 128MB chip?

 

Me again,

no matter what i do, its always say "IC NOT RESPONDING"
I'm now currently browsing this forum here, but maybe someone has an idea why it might be?

I hope this conversation turns out to be a little guide for future Razer blade stealth 2020 owners.

 

Oh I've only just realised you posted here as well. Obviously I still can't can't help with the exact process cos I haven't done any of it, but I'm pretty sure the 8mb chip would be too small (I think I've seen it mentioned somewhere that the full BIOS is 16mb). It's a shame the post about the 2020 model doesn't mention the full name of the chip (and it isn't quite visible in the photos), but the chip mentioned elsewhere is the same as your 128 except for the last two letters, so I think it must be that one. Is that the one you've tried to connect to?

 

Yeah the one between the Heatpipes is
the correct one. But there are two Things:
The IC(CH341a) is not Responding (dont know why) and the BIOS Chip is for 3,3v usage. On the next Weekend i make the 3,3v Mod on the IC and Re-install the serial and Parallel Driver. Maybe, its Working Then.

 

-wrong thread

 

I think I solved my issue so much as I possibly can given the low cooling performance I have with this current paste. Its still a big boost over how it performed stock.

 

Hi just tried all of above with my razer 15 advanced mid 2019(2070). has anyone played with VR power delivery design in the bios? It contains quite a bit of profiles and I am just wondering if anyone has tried them?

 

After completing this guide will you be able to use Intel XTU and/or ThrottleStop on your Razer Blade 2020 model as if it was running on BIOS v1.01 where UV is enabled by default?

 

Razer Blade Pro 17 Mid 2021 (11800/3070) here.

Modified the BIOS but when trying to flash it, AFU says "secure flash rom verify fail", so i guess without a programmer there is no way to unlock this baby.

 

Question about this part specifically:

1. Change "Plugged in" from 100% to 0%. Leave it at 100% for battery or your battery life will crash so hard.

Shouldn't it be the other way around? Everywhere I've read says that 100% means that it shouldn't park any of your cwheores while 0% means it can park them all. Isn't that why it's at 12% for the battery section by default (all but 1 core can be parked)?

Also, when I made these changes to the registry Balance Mode in synapse still seems to turn off boosting and my score is lower in benchmarks, do I have to do the whole BIOS flash mod to stop that?

 

Made the changes to AC and DC loadline and IMON Slope settings exactly as shown in the OP, as well as the registry and power option settings. However, Synapse still throttles on balanced mode (in high performance or ultimate) with manual high fan speed. CPU capping at around 3.9ghz instead of 4.7ish when on custom. This is for the 2021 with the i9 11900h

 

Same here with late 2019 stealth, its like its a completely different laptop now which is mind-blowing and I cant believe I waited this long to do it. In terms of battery life however its pretty much the same which is disappointing (4 - 4.5 hrs). Maybe I shouldnt have expected any gains but reading other reddit posts on blades doing the same thing and even one with the same late 2019 model, everyone always claims more battery life after these mods. Curious to know what you are getting or anyone else for that matter with a blade in general.

 

is it actually also possible with Windows 11?

Edit: yes it is.

RBS 2019: 5489 Cinebench R32
3D Mark: 3289 (Legendary)

 

Can we Share some numbers and Throttlestop settings?

 

So I did this way back when to my RBS, worked great to get more performance out of the laptop. I've since sold it and have had a 2020 RB15 2070S for a little over a year. I understand that my BIOS is locked and I'd have to use a programmer to unlock it though I'm pretty happy with the performance of the computer as is.

Would I be able to use an unlocked BIOS to turn the performance down so that I can extend the battery? Or rather I know that I could in theory but has anyone in this thread tried to do that specifically?

I used to get about 2-3hrs doing office work though lately that's dropped down to 1.5hrs for some reason. I'm assuming that I have some errant process that's killing my batt but I'm having trouble finding it. Am going to start fresh with Windows this weekend to try and get rid of that process but in any case it would be nice to be able to just push down max wattage for days when I'm doing office work on the road.

 

solved.

 

Somehow I managed to do the no PL/Throttle mode, from the guide here. But the catch is that I did it with the Gaming Mode and not Balanced Mode. So that my GPU can use its 105w (2070 105W maxq). The funny thing is that the temps are even better than before. While I was hitting 90 more often with clocks under 4GHz, with the unlock the temps are much more stable and lower. At the moment I’m testing. And so far I can say that my CPU clock is locked at 4,3GHz (6core turbo clock) and doesn’t clock down like usually. It just sticks there and stays like this.

I will attach a 3DMark screenshot for the proof.



I just created the other Profiles for the Laptop (High/Ultimate Power) and then made the changes in the BIOS, no regedit where made. Now its working with every profile, no differences here, beside that "Gaming-Mode2 lets my GPU use its max power.

 

Blade Pro 17 (Early 2021) RZO9-0368x report
=======

I was actually able to flash the BIOS after using the RU.exe trick to edit UEFI variable "BIOS Lock". Wrote using Intel CSME Flash Programming Tool 14.0.10.1204. In addition to editing BIOS using AMIBCP 5.02.0031 per this thread, I had to remove "Suppress If" statements per http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...l-hidden-options.830993/page-29#post-11041232.

In the end, the only VR setting I ended up using was the scaling variable and max current to 800. Set to 0.65, my CPU went from ~80C max to ~90C max which is about as hot as I want it. I have not repasted; that may be a future mod. The only benchmark numbers I have are from CPU-Z. I wanted something that would both stress the CPU and provide quick benchmark numbers. I ran the benchmark for 2 minutes to try to average out short duration turbo, because I believe that setting is still locked for me.

offset 0 slope=65
CPU-Z stress score=4730 starts at 4.25GHz@80W goes to 4.04GHz@65W Tend=90C
back to default
CPU-Z stress score=4304 starts at 4.15GHz@106W goes to 3.60GHz@65W Tend=74C

Before I did the flashing, I made sure that I could read the BIOS chip using a generic CH341A programmer and this clip https://www.amazon.com/CPT-063-Test-Clip-SOIC8-Pomona/dp/B00HHH65T4 and hook up wire. The clip that came with the programmer did not work for me. I haven't had to write the BIOS chip using the programmer yet, but I felt it was a good idea to make sure I probably could in case I rendered the system unbootable.

RU.efi credit/instructions : http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...l-hidden-options.830993/page-60#post-11117333, https://homanhuang.medium.com/how-to-hack-pc-bios-cfg-unlock-412d7128d0e3

I hope this helps. None of these tricks are mine. I compiled them all from this forum. All credit to originators. I've tried to provide forum links. Apologies for poor formatting.