Any 9873-S (from XOTICPC) owners experience these issues?

I have that one too... and had similar issues as i did with the CoolMaster, the temps may be a fluke on that test, i will continue to monitor

 

Was indeed a fluke, just taken after 1 full match @pat@XOTICPC @Meaker@Sager

 

I have a feeling your heat sink is damaged.

 

Which I tried to insist to Allen to check the cpu followed by "please please please" and he assured me all was fine and they found nothing wrong.

You know what tickles me too, i put a note in the box asking them to check the folder i saved on the desktop called "Temp Tests" to see what i was recording... They didn't even bother looking the pictures because i checked the last accessed date and all dates were before I sent the laptop in for RMA.

I am so freaking frustrated right now!

 

At this point, if it was me, i would expect them to cross ship you a new heatsink. Because this is going to be beyond frustrating.

 

Yeah, that is a good cooler, seems pretty well received here on the forums.

Keep us in the loop and let me know if I can help with anything!

 

@pat@XOTICPC did you read the rest of the post? Having same temp issues, also posted a new capture

 

I have reached out, we (Xotic, Xrawxtalentx and myself/Sager) will get this sorted

 

Just a quick question, does your system have the vapor chamber heatsink or the T shape on for the single 1080?

 

Can you check the heatsinks and see if something doesn't look right? Any kind of warping or anything along those lines? Definitely worth checking.

 

A good check is the contact pattern, if you take the heatsink off and look at the pattern the paste leaves then you get an idea of fit/heatsink shape.

 

You got any tips for opening the rig after you get the screws out? I've struggled getting it open when I repasted. @Meaker@Sager

 

Yes, lever front the front grills up. The HTWingNut video on YouTube shows the technique well.



11 mins in.

 

I'll be honest, i have no idea what to look for, but when i have time i will get it opened and remove the heatsink, and take pictures with my phone.

 

Yes do that, we have seen what it should look like

 

If I remove the heathsink does that mean I have to repasted the CPU or will I be ok just replacing the heathsink

 

@Meaker@Sager @pat@XOTICPC Alright gents, disclaimer, i dont know what im looking for so i took a crazy amount of pictures, everything looked ok to me.. but yeah here goes:

 

I noticed @HTWingNut did a video with temp tests and at 16:25 his cpu also showed max temps get up to 99c. So is this a known issue? @Meaker@Sager

 

The top heat pipe in your second to last picture is that silver some stray thermal paste or is it a nick or crack?

Screw 1 maybe looks a little weak from that pressure pattern.

Feed that back to Allen though as I have less experience with the split heatsink. The CPU cooling should be stronger in it though than the shared.

 

Didn't notice that on the pipe before, Im pretty certain it's not thermal, but I can't confirm if it's a scratch or nic right now, I will send this to Allen

 

Looks like a bit of solder.

 

@Meaker@Sager @pat@XOTICPC Just keeping everyone updated here, So Allens, response is to providing him a link to the pictures is try to run the fans on max to see if the temps still go up. As i stated to him, I can test it, but is that really the solution to high temperatures? seems like a Design flaw on Sager/Clevos end. Shouldn't the automatic setting be smart enough to raise the fans when needed?

More than happy to test with max fans. Will update tonight after work. But still doesn't seem like it should be a solution.

 

not really a solution as that's not how the laptop is intended to operate at full fan speeds 24/7 but maybe they're just trying to rule out any other things

I set my fan profile to automatic @ 4.6 GHz and it runs super quiet unless something CPU intensive is running

I didn't keep up with this thread but I hope they can paste your CPU using the X Cross method.....

The X Cross method is the best in my experience as once the heatsink is fitted, it provides the maximum coverage with the least air bubbles





also, you need to undervolt the CPU. For stock speeds (4.2 GHz) give it a -150mV undervolt. For a 4.4 GHz overclock, a -80mV undervolt is ideal to keep those temps down

 

I applied the cross method When I repasted the CPU. So talk to me about under volting, not sure what its for and how to do it? @Meaker@Sager any opinions on this "undervolt"

 

PM sent

 

Max fans ensures a base line can be used establish comparative performance.

Undervolting is fine for those who can be sure their base performance is already in order.

 

This , please first make sure the heat sinks are fine before undervolting.

 

So here's after running fans on Max and playing Overwatch for awhile, no issues on temps @Meaker@Sager @pat@XOTICPC @bloodhawk @Phoenix



GPU temps also fine

 

that's great then. problem solved!

 

How so? running the fans on max 24/7 isn't a solution... still have issues running on normal auto settings.

 

ok launch the built in CPU overclocking utility from your taskbar and set the CPU undervolt to -140mV if you're running stock clocks, then try again without setting the fans to max profile

 

@Phoenix before i do that.. will i lose performance by undervolting?

And do i leave Voltage at 1.25?

 

no sir, it is well known that the stock voltage for the 6700K CPU is way too high. you don't need that much of voltage to run @ 4.2 GHz. the more you overclock, the more voltage you need

The only thing you *may* encounter is maybe a random crash or reboot, in that case, you would just raise the voltage by +10mV so let's say -150mV wasn't stable, you would then set -140mV and test. if that's not stable, then you can try -120mV and so forth

in my experience on my laptop and many others' that I've helped undervolt, -150mV is perfectly stable for 42x4 meaning 4.2 GHz on all cores, not the stock 4.2 GHz on 1 core and 4.0 GHz when more than one core is being used

 

@Phoenix

This is with the undervolt

 

So are you happy now? Fans were on auto or max spin?

 

I guess that works,I went back to also using my Notepal U3, placed two vans over the vents by the GPU and 1 by the CPU. i also ordered 2 extra fans for my U3 (I bought the U2 fans) to go where the bottom vents near the touch pad.

 

Glad you got this cracked bro! enjoy your taptop

be smart, be like Phoenix

 

@Meaker@Sager @pat@XOTICPC @Phoenix Well I hate to say this, but i just had a crash restart again... was playing a game mid game screen went black and system rebooted by itself.

 

Raise the voltage offset by 20mV so of you set -150mV before. Then do -130 or even -120 then test again. This should be an easy fix my friend

 

Agreed, most likely you Uved too much.. Try what Phoenix has suggested..

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

 

Ok i changed it from -140 to -120. We'll see what happens! Thanks again guys. I appreciate everything while this gets sorted.

 

No worries, we are happy to help till you can enjoy your awesome machine!!

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, that's the one danger with undervolting. Instability caused by the CPU not getting enough voltage, much like overclocking it is best done tweaking a little at a time and then testing it.

 

So everything has been working wonderfully, until last night.. i got a whiff of something foul smelling. Only to trace it to the power cord... everything is working ok, but is this something i should be worried about? looks like for some reason the power cord may have sparked and started to burn the rubber? @Meaker@Sager @pat@XOTICPC

 

That isn't a usual for that to happen to an AC adapter. I would at least be looking at replacing the AC adapter, as I wouldn't want it to happen again and cause something worse.

Feel free to send me your order number and serial number from the system, I'll see what I can do for you (I usually respond quicker to emails, but PMs work too). Let me know if you have questions or if I can help with anything.

 

@pat@XOTICPC thanks Pat, i just shot you an email with the details

 

Not normal, no. I can see residue in the connector which may prevent proper insertion now and that would mean RMA time.

 

If you are mostly gaming and not doing CPU intensive tasks, you can disable Turbo using an utility like Intel XTU or ThrottleStop. This should also reduce the temps by few degrees.

Sent from my ASUS_Z016D using Tapatalk

 

It does not make much of a difference on the 7700K due to the narrow turbo range.

 

I have the same. It reduces the temps by 5+ degrees on load. Tested it many times.

Sent from my ASUS_Z016D using Tapatalk