PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

You mean capacitive rather than conductive.

 

@Meaker@Sager

Can you provide some guidance on the proper tool for the CPU screws, by chance?

 

Went ahead and undervolted. Powerspec 1510, -.125 offset was stable running prime95 and unigen heaven demo for 4 hours. The temps still reached 97 Celsius so I'm really irritated repasting would void warranty (and considering it is only under a heavy load, I doubt it would be covered by free repair). The 1070 GPU reported perfcap reason 1 many times and 4 a few times, however. Can a CPU undervolt affect GPU?

thanks for looking out for my hardware's longevity

 

I'd need to break out the kit to measure to remind myself but getting a kit like the Ifixit ones would be ideal for all tasks.

 

I'm planning to replace the screen with the 120hz QHD one. Does anyone know where I can get the panel AU B173QTN01?
@Meaker@Sager
@Eurocom Support
@Donald@HIDevolution
Any suggestions guys?
Thanks in advance

 

Have you overclocked your screen to 100Hz yet? Once you've done that the "upgrade" to 120Hz would seem minimal.

 

Yes I did. I got it up to 10 3 Hz lol. However the screen is too dim, and color seems washed out. I put it next to my old Acer V15 nitro and the Acer looks a lot brighter.

 

QHD TN+film 120hz? that's an awful screen, I suggest you wait for 144hz 7ms FHD IPS Gsync model, that will appear in march! not sure if gsync will be supported on it with the skylake model or only coffee lake..

 

This screen is plenty bright IMHO. I compared the Acer vs PowerSpec in Microcenter and the PowerSpec was brighter by a long shot.

 

Wait...is that going to be a thing? I doubt GSync would work. You probably need an unlocked BIOS...

What Acer model you compared with? Mine V15 Nitro has a pretty decent screen IMO. I put it next to my friend's Macbook Pro 13 inch, and it even looks brighter than the MBP (ofc the MBP has better color accuracy).
Plus, the matte screen makes my 1710 looks grainy in texts. Which is kinda irritating when reading codes while I'm programming. So if there was a glossy screen that'd be great!

 

I am not sure if they will license that with now almost EOL pa70hs-g or hp6. but this is going to be a Gsync panel for the new pa70xxx coffee lake. though you don't really need Gsync on 144hz panel

 

oh, for qhd 120hz you will need LCD cable replaced for a 4k capable one, 40pin

 

Do you know where to get it along with the panel?

 

can't help at this point and I don't have them either. possibly that p750 4k cable can fits. sure it will work, but not sure if its long enough!

 

Out of curiosity with all of these discussions regarding the displays, is it possible for me to upgrade the 1510 to a 120hz panel? I tried searching but I couldn't really find anything for this specific question. Where would I look to buy one and what's the cost? Also, how difficult is it to swap out the display? Thanks!

 

Update: I got a BSOD after the -.125 undervolt on the 1510 (despite running the CPU 100% and GPU almost 100% simultaneously for 4 hours twice without issues earlier).

"IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" error on the synaptics touchpad driver. Reduced the offset to -.12, hopefully a big enough difference to help.

 

Finally, I've caught up on here. I can't believe both laptops are cheaper! Oh, and a 1510 reviewer on MC said they got a WD 1TB 7200 HD...so I guess they don't all come with the HGST drive?

I got a BSOD yesterday, while playing Guild Wars 2 on MSHybrid. It said error: syntp.sys I think it might've happened because my internet kept randomly dropping, so I'd get kicked off the server and the game would close. Any ideas as to what happened?

Today, I decided to make sure my drivers were all updated. The only driver I didn't install was Intel Proset/Wireless Software and Drivers package ("Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 8265 Wireless LAN Drivers" on Pro-Star.) Windows flagged it. Do I need it? (FYI, I can never get the USA download links to work on Clevo's P650HS-G driver download page...so I usually go to Pro-Star for the files.)

I don't exactly know which drivers to download and install, so I just go through Pro-Star's list and download the most recent versions. If there is something I shouldn't be downloading and installing, please let me know. I don't always know what I'm doing.

Since I haven't undervolted yet, I'm going to do that too.

On a side note, MC is selling a refurb 15.6" portable monitor (didn't know those existed) for $59.99 here if you're looking for an extra monitor.

And a cooling pad for $9.99 after rebate here. It's only got one fan, though.

 

I have had this issue too. I believe the Synaptic Touchpad driver needs to be updated for RC3 like some of the others, as it may have had become an issue with most recent MS updates. I have since disabled it since I use a mouse while it's docked.

 

That's a problem with CCC interfering:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-p7xxtm1-syntp-sys-bsod.813584/#post-10679476

 

Do you use any download managers like IDM? I tried using Chrome's default download manager and it worked

 

Will the touchpad still work after changing that item in the registry?

 

Okay. Thanks! I updated CCC and updated the Touchpad driver. I don't know if this would affect it, but I keep the touchpad usually turned off. I use a wireless trackball mouse.

@Prema I'll look into that too.

@Tuan Hoang Umm...I tried downloading using Firefox and Waterfox. Neither worked.

(As a reminder, I have the PowerSpec 1510. ) I undervolted my laptop using Intel XTU. It's at -0.120V right now. I haven't pushed it any further. The problem I have is that, when my laptop goes on power save or if I shut it down, the voltage reverts back to default settings. How do I get it to stay? Or do I have to change it everytime?

Oh, and are you all monitoring your frame rates and temps by playing your game in windowed mode? I can't figure out how to monitor it while in full screen.

 

The updated synaptics drivers remove the synaptics menu from the mouse options. Set a system restore point or something beforehand. Hopefully the setup.exe didn't do anything that'll prevent a regular driver rollback.

Edit: it did. now the painful process of reinstalling before windows messes it up

 

I am using windows precision drivers and its working flawless. If you guys want I can share method how to use them instead of synaptics which are below average.

 

Are you using the Precision Driver from Lenovo's site?

 

Yes,

 

I just purchased the 1710 I was curious it normal on 1710 for the spacebar to have no lighting on the frontside or is mine defective? I see it on the backside towards the other keys. Because the hotkey program shows light should be up front.

 

Like this?

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486482/1710_173_Gaming_Laptop_Computer_-_Black

 

Yes Thank you, it must be normal.

Are there any guides on how to remove the bottom so I can get inside for upgrades. I removed all screws and it seemed to not want to open like there was another screw tied into the keyboard? I didn't want to break it.

 

It looks like it has 3 hooks in front. Try prying it with a credit card or lifting the cover from the fan side. But if it feels like the cover is being held somewhere else double check if all you undo all the screws.

 

There's a screw underneath the keyboard. I almost broke mine before knowing this

 

The front isn't the problem it' the center there is no screw hole on the bottom for this one yet it'
Attached inside to where I'm going to break it if I pull.

See images here, they are all the 1 stud holding together .. different angles


https://imgur.com/a/XV1O1

 

How do you get to the screw

 

There are 2 screw holes at the bottom which have the keyboard prying up symbol (you probably unscrew them already), now just press the screw driver in there, the keyboard should pop up.
Now carefully use your fingers to slide along the F1-F12 keys part, lifting they keyboard up just a little bit, as you don't want to damage the 3 ribbon cables underneath

 

Thanks I really appreciate it! I got it!

Do you think it' necessary to put that screw back under the keyboard I see it as more of a pain in the butt than help since its not the only one holding the keyboard in.

 

There are two screws attached to keyboard. one from bottom and second from under the keyboard. when you unscrew both from the bottom you will see mark which will tell you push screw inside with the help of screw driver and it will lift the keyboard and you will see second screw. Let us know if you need more assistance.

 

You can leave the one screw from under the keyboard out. I did, no problems.

 

I cracked the case to redo the thermal paste as I found it to hot under load in warcraft at up to 96degrees! GPU was 81.

After thermal paste was cleaned and new applied my temps are around 71-75 max and I've never seen my gpu above 65 yet. Not too much testing yet but I can tell a huge difference. Stock thermal paste is garbage and it was over pasted half of it was squeezed all over the chip casing.

Overclocked display to 100hz (1710) but it does not feel like truly 100hz. It looks the same as 75hz. I did it 100% correctly. (Discrete mode & nvidia control panel OC) I have a 120hz desktop and there' a huge difference. I even ran my desktop at 100hz to see a diffrence. The laptop when getting 80fps it feels like bad response time (not stutter) when turning left or right in game. This is my first notebook pc so I don' know if that' normal vs a desktop. I can deal with it but it just doesn't feel smooth like a 100hz should. Just wondering if I was missing something. I'e never owned a IPS display, does anyone know the screen specs?

 

It may (or may not) be caused by wrong application of thermal compound and/or not tightening heatsink screws enough. Unless someone used toothpaste as thermal paste, temperatures should not differ more than 10-15 degrees ( http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108-9.html ).

The difference should be visible when dragging windows. Also, you can use ufotest to verify results.

Disable GSync for fast games.

 

Tried out DA:I last night for the first time on this laptop, and discovered my temps were really hitting some new highs. (And the fans were roaring) CPU was hitting 78C, and GPU hit 85C, and was probably still rising. So I cracked her open today and repasted using ICD7.

Now the game temps are 68C on CPU and 71C on the GPU in the same scene. Noticed they used that atypical grey grease, and they applied too much on the CPU.

EDIT: Looking back, I noticed that most of the TIM ran off the CPU die.

 

Hey, jumping in here after reading the past 30 pages, I am planning on picking up the 1510 soon, but I am really worried about the performance given you have to underclock it just to get it to function properly and not burn up... Is it basically required to re-paste the internals? How does the 1710 differ from the 1510 in terms of heat? I see some people have done this but I can't find any videos of anyone doing the whole process. I am quite a rookie at dealing with computer internals. Also, Chastity I looked at the laptop-cooler you linked, which while great, is over $55 right now. Do any of the other options on Amazon look comparable for $15-$30? Also, what do you mean by "trying out DA"? Can't figure out what DA is. Sorry for the multitude of questions but I am just worried about such a big purchase, and the very small community. I am glad you are active on here, because this forum is the only place on the whole internet that I see the Powerspec's being discussed.

 

DA:I = Dragon Age: Inquisition

The 1510 has some more internal space vs the 1710, so maybe it will be better. I don't know for certain since I don't own one. The repaste wasn't very hard on this Clevo, considering my last laptop was the G73JH, which required you to flip the motherboard over to access the cpu/gpu. If you aren't confident, then have someone else do it.

I think in my situation, the TIM thinned out as it got heated, and ran off the die. When I first got this unit, the temps were just fine. The GPU TIM was fine, but I redid both since you have to. Also it wasn't performing well.

 

Played World of Tanks on my 1710, CPU got up to around 85c and GPU around 75c... looks like I'll need to repaste the CPU for sure, it's already undervolted by -.125

 

For whatever it's worth, 85 Celsius isn't so bad.

 

Nathanman123,

I have a 1510 and I don't think it will have any problems as long as you change the fan speed to maximum when you are pushing it, like with a graphically intense game for instance. The manual even tells you to do this. I've had no issues following this protocol and i haven't touched the inside...yet. READ THE MANUAL.

Optional stuff:

One of the other posters has the right idea of propping the laptop up a bit because the space between the laptop and surface is minimal. A laptop cooler will achieve the same results as the materials he used. I use the Cooler Master NOTEPAL U2 Plus. I recommend it ( or the U3) because you can place the fans wherever they are needed rather than a static fan in the center. Every laptop has their own unique hot zones. The cooler I use is on sale at Walmart right now.

I'm still going to re-paste mine and mod the bottom casing for more air flow, but again, I do not think it is necessary for the 1510. I'm only doing it, because every laptop I've ever owned ran hot and I've re-pasted and modded all of them. Never had one brick.

If you still want to re-paste, it IS daunting, but easy. I'd be glad to walk you through it, but there are plenty of vids on YouTube and articles on computer enthusiast websites that offer the general knowledge needed. Also, a poster in this thread has provided pics that are super helpful.

I have heard from numerous sources that the 1710 is the one that really has the overheating issues, not the 1510. Even the guys at MicroCenter said this exact thing and told me they've had two 1710's brick, and zero on the 1510. They still tried to talk me out of the 1510. I love it and think it's great.

I recommend the 1510. You can't beat the value, especially if you can get it on sale. I received $300 off when I bought mine. The GTX 1070 will run anything, there is very little to almost zero bloatware, and the rest of the specs are tops.

 

I would have went for the 1510 myself if it wasn't locked at 60hz. Once you have a 100hz+ monitor it seriously is hard as hell to go back to 60hz.

 

Thank you SO MUCH for the thorough reply... A couple followups:
If you aren't having too much problem with thermals, why bother re-pasting? And how much is your measured temperature change when using the laptop cooler vs. no cooler? What games/settings have you played, and what are your recorded temps? I have seen a lot of data on the 1710 but not much on 1510...

 

No, but at temp the fans will be spinning loud. Having the lower temp is nice for quieter gameplay.

 

Yeah 85c isn't bad. I ran intels processor test utility and it only hit 70c.

I'll be keeping an eye on it to repaste. But so far in the winter with the house a little cooler, it seems to be OK.

 

I'm re-pasting because I have Formula 7 Nano Diamond Compound. It's going to be better than that thermal pad, so why not do it? Anything you can do to make a machine run cooler, even if your temps are not reaching dangerous levels, is worth doing.

CPU gets as hot as 82C and the GPU gets to 72C during gaming with the cooler. Re-pasting should help bring that down. The temps only go up a few degrees when I don't use the cooler. The CPU touches 90C in short bursts.

They really should have two fans on the CPU like they do on the GPU.

Games: Ghost Recon Wildlands, Witcher 3, Dying Light, Just Cause 3. I max out the settings to Ultra on everything I play. I haven't found a game yet that I cant max out on. This is in 1920x1080 resolution.