PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

I would like to buy a second power supply for my 1710. The model # on the brick is ADP-230EB T, but the ones I can find online with that model # do not have the correct tip. Does anyone know where the correct adapter for this laptop can be purchased?

 

You could call the guys at xoticpc.com and see if they'd hook you up. I know you can buy an extra one if you want to when you purchase the PC for about $125.

 

I just got this laptop cooler, and played some PUBG for about 20 min. Temps still max at 75C. Absolutely no help after first test.

Prior to adding, it would max at 75C as well.

 

A couple of questions for you all:

1. I just bought a Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB from MicroCenter and installed it into the SSD2 m2 slot but it won't recognize. Not in the BIOS or Windows 10 Disk Management. Any ideas?
2. What model do I look for from Clevo to update the drivers? Do I need to update the BIOS to be able to see the new drive?

Thanks all for any help you can provide.

 

@dwlemon3
install it in ssd1 m2 slot, as i know 2nd dont have pcie lanes for it.

 

@bizid
Does this mean I can't have 2 m2 SSDs installed? Sorry, I'm not all that familiar with laptops but I thought the 250 was in the SSD1 slot. Thanks for your response.

 

you can have 2 sata m2 ssd, or 1 nvme ssd.
when you install nvme ssd in 1st m2 slot it takes 4 pcie lanes and there nothing left for 2nd.

 

I just looked at your cooler online, and my only concern is whether those fans are maintaining good static air pressure. The cooler I have uses actual standard case fans, so I get a lot of underside air pressure.

 

Is this the 1510, because I have the 1710, and I get PCIe Gen3 x4 on the first M.2 slot, and PCIe Gen3 x2 on the 2nd. (orginal 960 EVO 250GB and added 960 EVO 500GB)

 

I have the 1510. I saw your post about adding the 500 and that's why I thought I would be able to do it..

**So I did a little more research and I see what Bizid is referring to about not being able to use the second slot for NVMe. This leads me to a few additional questions:

1. How would I go about swapping out the 250 for the 500 if I went that route? I don't have a disk/recovery to reimage the new drive with Windows etc
2. Would I be ahead to just swap out the 1tb mechanical drive for a 500gb SSD and return the NVMe?
3. Would it be worth it to get two m2 SATAs and raid them?

Ideally I think I'd like to go with option 1 but I just don't know how I'd go about getting everything back on.

Thanks again for all your help folks.

 

You would need to download an image from microsoft and re-install.
You can swap out the 2.5" drive for any other 2.5" and be fine so long as the OS is on the M.2.
Not really over a single NVME drive.

 

My 1710 temp when using on a flat table surface playing Deus Ex MD was 90C and it throttled down to 1700mhz, no further drop. After using this cooler, with no fans on since they sent me without a usb cable, the temp maxed out at 80C.
So I think it really depends on the bottom surface area. If it has enough then the internal fans will do just fine.

What's your cooler model?

 

Just a small review after having used this laptop for 2+ months:

My normal temps using the 1710 (with the exception of the ocasional spikes) are 65-70° celsius on the CPU at about 40-50% use and reaches to 80-85° with 80-100% use (in Battlefield 1, for instance), as for the GPU, it hardly ever passes 70-73°, even at almost 2000mhz core frequency and is overclocked (+100mhz clock and +300 memory), when playing light games (CS:GO) I generally use the "Silent" setting in the Control Panel, fans on "Auto" and when playing heavy games (BF1, Witcher 3) turn it to performance mode, with fans on "Overclock" with 20% compensation on the fan speeds (selected in the GPU overclocking panel).

I use a very simple, non-obstructive laptop support to lift it up to a 45 degree angle, and have some PC fans (3x120mm, good airflow and static pressure) blowing on the bottom using some custom made supports, they are always on when I'm using the laptop for gaming/at home.

On the whole, very satisfied with the GPU temps but would rather have lower CPU temps, I've thought about opening it up and repasting, but due to the thinness of this laptop and also considering the CPU heatsink shares a heatpipe with the GPU, which probably is the cause for the high CPU temps, I won't bother for now, temps are fine except in very high use scenarios.

On the performance side, this laptop runs almost every game on high-ultra settings (1080p) with FPS practically never dropping below 60, and usually a bit above that mark, I do feel that performance could improve with higher CPU clocks because sometimes it feels like the i7 7700hq bottlenecks the GPU, but that would require a bulkier chassis to handle a bigger heatsink, this laptop will probably have decent gaming performance for the next 2-3 years.

The battery life while gaming is obviously low, but if I switch to MSHybrid mode (I use it on Discrete mode, with the screen OC'ed to 100hz while plugged) and use optimized energy/brightness settings I can get a good 4 hours of use.

Also exchanged the mechanical HD with a Samsung 850 EVO 500gb, no problem there, except for the fact that besides removing ALL of the back screws, after unscrewing the central screw (has a keyboard marking next to it) you have to press it with a screwdriver, which pops off the keyboard, allowing you to unscrew the last one, only then will you be able to remove the back cover, a bit of a pain.

On the bad side, my 1710 also has the distinctive speaker problem, where it almost sounds as if the sound is only coming for the right-side speaker, but that doesn't bother me too much because I always use external speakers or headphones, also came with a single dead pixel on the bottom left corner of the screen, due to its location not worth the trouble of exchanging it, if possible at all because of one dead pixel.

 

I just installed the new control center with the updated nvidia driver and my the gpu control center is not working .
no temperature , no overclock , nothing . anyone having the same issue ?

 

I can access the GPU OC control center but not the memory OC control center. Also, when going to overclock the GPU, when I save the changes it will just continually spin, not applying or saving the OC.

 

Same here !

 

http://www.coolermaster.com/peripheral/peripheral-others/sf19v2usb3/

 

hi guys, just wanted to add to the conversation... laptopmag.com claims this laptop cooler 'offers a level of cooling capability that easily surpasses that of every other cooling pad we tested'.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01469DJLM

(article): https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/best-laptop-coolers

 

That just means it's better than the other 11 that they tested. It doesn't mean it's the best out there. Also note they do not mention what laptop they used for testing.

Biggest caveat with that one is the lack of fan speed adjustment.

 

true

 

I purchased a 1710 about a month ago, and after reading this thread have been working to reduce temps via ThrottleStop. I had limited success in reducing temps, so I decided to replace the thermal paste. I didn't see much information on here, and now having done it, I thought I'd add some info to the thread. First, it wasn't easy given that the CPU screws (orange) are not standard Phillips, but some unknown variation. I had to use a very small Phillips driver with a lot of downward pressure to get them out. Be very careful, they are easy to strip as mentioned previously in this thread. Once those are out, the rest of the screws are straightforward. There are 4 screws (red) holding the GPU heatsink down, and 3 screws (yellow) on each fan. You do have to pull a few connectors out (green) to get the heatsink out of the way. Once out, clean off the old grease and replace it with new grease. I used IC Diamond and saw temp drops of over 10C.

 

Very good and illustrative post!

Did you use the dot method to aply the thermal compound to the CPU/GPU?

Any risk of damaging the thermalpads? Would be hard for me to get a precise replacement.

Did you see 10C temp drops on the CPU, specifically?

 

Yes I try and tell people the 1510 and 1710 are basically the best deals on the market... If you can repaste.

Clevo stock paste jobs are garbage despite the fairly impressive heatsink arrangement, once the machines are repasted they fair much better. I told this to the Microcenter near me, but they weren't even told that they were Clevos until I told them.

 

The thermal pads looked fine, they weren't adhered significantly if at all to the chips. I don't have good before and after numbers on the GPU, sorry. The 10C drop was for the CPU. As for the thermal compound, I placed several small drops evenly distributed around the chips. Enough that I was sure it would cover once I tightened everything back down.

 

If they look good then no nees to replace them

 

Wasn’t planning on it, but after reading about your results, decided to repaste my 1710 aswell, found the process very simple and quick, had no problem removing the CPU screws with a very small and thin flat screwdriver and little force, and the rest of them with a normal phillips screwdriver, applied a thin line of Artic MX-4 on the CPU and a thicker line on the GPU.

After closing everything up again and testing, my CPU does not pass the 80c mark, staying at around 74-76c on 85-100% use for about 30m and the GPU stays at about 65c on 100%, impressive results.

Would highly recommend repasting to everyone.

 

any luck fixing this issue ? Anyone using the new control center?

 

Anybody know if I can buy better fans for the 1710? The motors themselves are noisy at low speed. Or is there any way to change the fan speed control tables so they don't run at low speed? SpeedFan won't work for this, as it detects only the CPU fan, and it reports the speed as high as 300k RPM, which seems unlikely.

I just repasted my 1710 it this morning with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. It is cooler at the top end, which is nice- my 110 mV undervolt was not entirely stable when the CPU was getting to 94C under synthetic full CPU and GPU loads, 185 Watts being pulled from the wall by the power brick. Now it gets to about 85C under full synthetic load.

But I mostly repasted for better performance at the low end. I use it in a quiet office, and the fan motors (not the blades or the air movement) make a lot of noise. Especially the tandem GPU motors, which rotate at similar but not identical speeds, creating a fairly low-frequency harmonic that sounds more like somebody using an electric can opener in the other room than a laptop fan blowing air.

Anybody have any ideas? Do they just need to run-in? My old Probook 4540s motor got quieter over time, but I don't want to wait 6 months to not hear the motor and just hear the air. I thought about disabling the GPU fan that's closer to the center of the chassis to eliminate the harmonic. This would make sense because that portion of the intake is mostly blocked in my current setup anyway, but that's the fan that's closer to the GPU, so that's not the direction I want to go.

Any ideas on how to get the fan motors themselves to be less noisy would be welcome. Or a place or manufacturer from which to get quieter motors that are compatible.

Also, my power supply brick squeals when under light load. Anybody else seeing this?

 

I'm sitting here next to my 1710 at idle, and I can hear the fans running, but it isn't loud, and certainly not noisy like a can opener. Maybe you got some bad case fans? You can let the MC techs look at it, and have them replace them.

 

I tried rolling it back to an older version but no luck. Reset everything (reinstalled Windows after switching over to a 500gb m.2) and still nothing. Funny enough I ended up downloading MSI Afterburner and used it to overclock the GPU.

 

I have to say that the cooling system of this 1710 | PA70HS is enough to keep the CPU temps down. However the shared heat pipe from the CPU to the GPU kinda ruins everything.
I did a stress test, both with and without the GPU together. When GPU was stressed, it made the CPU throttle hard, temp was almost 100 C.
All stock paste + Max fan + notebook cooler. Check the pics below to get what I mean

Spoiler: both CPU + GPU

Spoiler: stress test CPU alone

 

A shared design will always be hottest with both parts stressed. Overall temps should be similar to a separated one. It does help reduce idle noise and single load point temperatures.

 

Those are synthetic load so definitely not something you'll encounter during gaming/daily use.
However when I play games it does make the CPU reach up to its 90s, and the GPU up to its 80s. Which is very similar to the synthetic load I just did.
So I wonder if there wasn't the shared heat pipe there, what the CPU temp would be? Could it possibly be lower? Why would the GPU need any help if there's already 2 dedicated fans and heatsinks for it?
Nobody but Clevo knows the secrets behind this design

 

Because its a 1070 in a notebook and a massive up tick in power over previous generations if you click it properly.

The cooler it is the faster it runs so it is prioritised in cooling.

 

Meaker,
Is there any way to exert any control at all over the CPU fan? Even the simple "turn-on, turn-off" temp controls with a fixed underlying curve like can be controlled for the GPU would really help with the CPU.

 

One thing I cannot understand is with $2 in thermal paste, I can drastically improve the temps on this laptop. WHY DON'T THEY USE BETTER PASTE AT THE FACTORY? I can't imagine the money that must be spent on designing the heatsinks/tubes/fans for these things, what is $2 (most likely much less for them) for such a drastic temp drop?

 

Anyone who is overclocking their 1070M, what settings do you use?

 

Not built in that I am aware of.

 

Hi I am following this thread from last 2,3 months and after reading reviews I bought 1710 last month and I noticed high temp for CPU so I decided to repaste. I used ArcticSilver5 and when I turned on Laptop didn't showed display I hooked it to external display and i am able to get display. I double check all connect and they seems perfect. I changed graphics card option in BIOS from dedicated to Hybrid and now no external display. Does anyone face similar issue??

 

My PS brick also presents some light coil whine, specially during heavy gaming, but since I keep it under the table dosn’t bother me.

The fans on my 1710 are very quiet in the silent-automatic settings, barely noticable, you probably got unlucky on yours.

 

Can someone help me from where I can get BIOS for 1710?

 

@Ehsan habib
Better disassemble it and make photo for us, maybe we tell you more accurate where is problem.

seems you broke video card\chip, disassemble it again and check video card die for missing parts.
there also chance you just short circuit something on it with excessive amount of paste

 

I double check everything also I showed it to local tech guy and he checked all hardware connections and he told me that somehow BIOS corrupted and need to reflash BIOS. Right now Laptop not with me so I can't share pictures.

 

bios corrupted after repaste? it do not sounds logical.
there can be tiny chip damage on edge hardly noticeable.

But ofcs you can reflash bios on it cant make it worse, and better if you ask it from guys you bought it from.

 

Friend bought it from MicroCenter and shipped to Pakistan and I don't wanna disturb him. I can contact microcenter but I don't know if they can provide bios as noting mentioned on their website as well as powerspec's own website. I also searched on Clevo and in order to get bios from them you need to be reseller or distributor. :|

 

The issues with using Arctic Silver 5 on laptop GPUs are twofold:

1) It's is a thin consistency, and is only effective with heatsinks with nearly perfect lapping/finish and a tight fit. Laptop heatsinks are often far from perfect. Using a paste with a thicker consistency and not being adversely affected by this would be a better choice.

2) AS5 is conductive, and should some of it leak over the edge and touch something that is electrically active, you get a short. I have a funny feeling this is what happened to you. If only the BIOS got corrupted as a result, consider yourself very lucky. I suspect it's more than this.

I prefer using IC Diamond in my laptops because it is thicker, and doesn't lose heat conductive properties if you apply too much. It's also non-conductive. So overall, it's noob-proof.

 

Btw I found link to download BIOS from other forum I will try to reflash BIOS tomorrow and will update result.

https://repo.palkeo.com/clevo-mirror/PA7XHS/

 

Just grabbed a 1710 Open box for $1105, looks good other than missing the box. Any must does to get it setup nicely? Haven't had a chance to test the temps. to see if it'll need to be repasted yet...

 

Update on my 1510 temps...

For reference: -.125 undervolt, overclock fan setting, and cooling pad tilted up for better airflow. No repaste.

Games I’ve tested (max settings): Witcher 3, PUBG, Divinity OS2, Fortnite, TF2 and Gwent.

TF2 and Gwent are low impact so they sit comfortably in the mid 60’s.

The other 4 are more intensive, but surprisingly show similar heat patterns. They sit in the mid to high 70’s the majority of the time with spikes into the low 80’s. Witcher 3 had the highest peak at 85, but that only happened one time. Usual daily peak is 82-83 (3 hour gaming sessions).

Should I even bother with a repaste? These numbers are considered good, right?

 

Update:
It was Bios issue, when I reflash bios it started working normally. I will update AS5 results soon.