PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

I have no idea what KIND of paste they used, but it was put on way too thick and had been squeezed out the sides onto the chips. I have pictures somewhere earlier in this thread of what it looked like after I pulled the heat sink off, if you search for my posts.

 

It's the numbers game all companies, give your best numbers but there's a catch. I guess the only way to find out for sure is to stress test by number of cores I think with prime95 you can pick and choose those options

 

Yeah, it was definitely a robo-paste job. Just a generic strip of paste haha. It was definitely over kill, spent a good 15 mins cleaning it off.

 

for all those that were looking for a replacement powerbrick... found in my amazon recommendations haha.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Micr...Format=grid&impressionTimestamp=1524515652024

 

The heatsinks in the factory get a square layer placed on the heatsink which is then mounted to the board/chip. Like the pre-applied layer you get on desktop heatsinks.

 

Before re-paste: levels off at 76 with a max of 80-84


After: levels at 67 with a max of 75-80



Not too shabby.

 

Guys, I have a 1710 and while cleaning the keyboard with a microfiber cloth the tag got stuck in the Insert/Scroll lock key and ripped it out, one of the two tiny plastic brackets stayed with the key but the other one got lost, and now I cant put the key back, anyway I can find these plastic brackets for sale online? Or even an entire new keyboard?

Thanks!

 

If no one here has the specifics I would contact Micro Center maybe they have the piece kicking around or be able to hook you up with a keyboard or at least give you the part number to try and match it up online, even a similar one you could get the piece.
You could take the keyboard off as well to get the numbers and dimensions etc. probably just couple screws hold it in place after you take the bottom cover off then it should lift right out

 

I would assume any replacement keyboard for a clevo pa71 unit would be a direct fit.

 

Average clocks are higher too.

 

System behaving much more like it's old self, being nice and stable once again on 17341.1. Reinstalled all the drivers (or ran the Repair option) and installed NV 397.31 for RS4 (WDDM 2.4). Also fixed some weird double pause on fullscreen video playback.

EDIT: After a couple of days, it just BSOD on me while gaming. Guess I just have to wait for the next patch.

 

So you're saying with the newest OS updates you began having issues?

I picked up an open-box 1510 from microcenter last Friday and I have been having several GPU issues with it: a few blue screens, it requiring multiple restarts to boot properly, the 1070 being disabled in Device Manager (which a reboot fixes), and so on. I've begun suspecting that there was an issue with the 1070 and I was planning on returning it next week. But if you're having similar issues, maybe it isn't the GPU.

Nervous because I have just over a week to decide if I want to keep it before I cannot return it. I could potentially return it and pay more for a 1710, but my local microcenter does not have any other 1510s other than this open box unit.

 

Did you install 1803 on your system? My BSOD issue seems to be due to the OS issue that MS posted about.

 

I am having an odd issue with my Powerspec 1510. For some reason, I cannot get G-Sync to work at all. Even after double checking both Clevo Control Center and the BIOS to make sure it's in Discrete Mode, the "Setup G-Sync" option will not appear in NVCP. When I check the V-Sync options, G-Sync is not listed at all. I've reinstalled drivers using DDU in safe mode, completely reinstalled a clean OS, and even pulled the battery while holding power button to clear caps, and still cannot get it to show. The panel is the stock panel, and I am pretty sure it supports G-Sync given it's a P650HS-G. Any ideas or suggestions to get G-Sync to function on this system?

 

I'm completely up to date on OS updates. My issues aren't exclusively BSOD, but are just the 1070 acting up in general. Last night I reinstalled all the drivers. While I was in hybrid mode, the computer booted without issue, but as soon as I put it in discrete mode, I have boot issues, the 1070 gets an error 43 occasionally, and so on. Basically anytime I boot the computer I usually have to do it several times before I can log in with my 1070 actually working.

 

Time to RMA the laptop I think.

 

It should support GSync 60Hz on that model. Have you updated the BIOS by chance with a Clevo release? You may lose the GSync whitelisting that way. If not, swing by MC and let them reflash your BIOS.

 

Microcenter tech skill level varies greatly on the area. They may not be able to even do it. Is there anyway you can check the SKU number for your monitor. It may be, however unlikely, that this particular model may have been fit with a non-GSync. The chances of this happening are about as unlikely as surviving being shot out of an airlock naked, but it happens.

I purchased a Surface pro (First generation) back in 2013. It was labeled, packaged and charged as a 128gb version..... Low and behold, it was a 64gb version. Tiger direct(They were good back then) was shocked, thought i ripped out the unit and was trying to scam them. Got microsft involved, they had top ship the unit. Their team found that i had never unsealed the unit and that they, in fact, had installed the wrong SSD. Again chances of that happening without being caught by QC are as rare as a Gay Unicorn, but they do happen. I got a 100$ gift card for their screw up as well.

 

Wrong part got mixed in the bin I guess, very odd.

 

BIOS is write protected, they won't be able to flash it. I've already tried with afudos, by dumping the bios from a working 1510 that a friend of mine has, didn't work. Oddly enough, the stock panel that typically ships with these is an LG panel, the one I have is a random AUO panel. I swapped it out with the 120hz G-Sync panel that's in my W650KK1 and G-Sync showed right up. @Meaker@Sager has to be correct, perhaps a random panel found it's way in this laptop, or perhaps it's been replaced by the service desk, as this laptop was previously used.

I appreciate those of you that looked into the issue for me, always great to see people helping each other out here.

 

The 7700HQ would only hit 3.8ghz on a single core, and 3.4ghz with all 4 cores stressed. IIRC there's a page in hwinfo that says something like 38x (1c), 36x (2c), 35x (3c), 34x (4c)

 

My resistance finally broke, and I did pick up the Corsair K63 Wireless SE keyboard. And I learned that the kb + Dark Core mouse both in Bluetooth mode overwhelm the bandwidth offered by BT 4.2, and the polling rate dropped on the mouse bad enough to cause some serious tracking latency.

Solution, use one of them with dongle. I was hoping to use both via BT. meh. Maybe the next gen with BT5.0 will solve this issue.

 

While I was at MicroCenter, I also grabbed a portable cooler. The SF-19 doesn't fit in a backpack, and I wanted something that didn't need an AC adapter to function.

I saw the Cooler Master Notepal X-Slim, and decided to give it a try. I know CM fans, and do a decent job at air flow and pressure. After unboxing, I found the unit to be attractive, lightweight, and... simple. It's a grill, a 160mm fan, and a USB connection with passthru. No lights, no fan controls, and no USB hub.

It has a pair of legs that like to fold on themselves if you slide the cooler, so pick it up if you want to move it. As for it's primary purpose, cooling, it works very well. Idle temps dropped 4C, and gaming with 95%+ GPU load hit a max of 73C. (Fast Sync is great for this)

Fan noise is quite good, rated at 21 dBA, and airflow of 70 CFM. (It's nice when the maker gives specs) Runs off USB2 power, which is just fine. I use my K63 Wireless dongle on the cooler's passthru with no discernable issue. I can feel the air being pulled in by the cooler sitting next to it, so I know there's excellent airflow.

It uses the same mesh as they used on the SF-19, so it's durable. It's not as wide as the 1710, but I see that as a good thing, because it doesn't get in the way of cabling, like the laptop's PSU connection. It is however, almost as wide, so there's no wobble.

Since it's nearly the same size, it fits well in a backpack. The SF-19, not so much. And the best part is that the unit MSRP is $19.99. Win. So it's a great no-frills cooler on the cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-Ultra-Slim-R9-NBC-XSLI-GP/dp/B005C31HC0/

 

First post....

Running a 1510 since November, had blue screen crashes, noticed it only happened gaming. Forced fans to max while gaming, no more blue screens.

Repasted the gpu and cpu with thermogrizzly kryonaut, dropped from 183f max to 167f.

I did use the tool on here to update the bios and such, tried to recreate a blue screen condition again and haven't had one yet.

Soundblaster software off power spec's website cured the volume being too quiet for both speakers and headphones.

Overall I'm very happy with this choice over the ROG i7/1070 model, I returned.

Sorry on mobile and it's really fighting my typing ...

 

Don't know why my temps are still so high even though I've repasted with kryonaut. Here are temps when playing CoD WWII, everything maxed out, set resolution at 1920x1080

Spoiler

 

As much as you probably do not want to try limiting customizing the games graphics settings like lowering anti-aliasing etc you usually won't even notice on screen except for the lower temps
For example I did not like the temps I was getting with Witcher 3 maxed out so I lowered or shut off AA on Hair works did not even notice the difference but my temps dropped noticeably.
I also set max frames to 60fps. since the extra frames did not seem to matter anyway

As a last resort you could also try lowering the max frequency of the GPU. If the GPU is not struggling to keep steady FPS probably would not be an issue so you don't need it to go to max turbo boost.
I am assuming you undervolted the CPU which seems to help in most cases.
You could check the heat sink is fully tightened down just in case some paste pumped out

 

1) What fan profile are you using?
2) How do you setup your unit? On a desk? In bed? On a cooler? Is the cooler on? Is the back end raised?
3) Do you undervolt the CPU or GPU?

The biggest improvement for the 1710 is getting it off a flat surface. Sitting atop a cooler is ideal, tho a rubber eraser on the backend works too.

 

@Meaker@Sager I was told the BIOS on these units were write protected by Clevo themselves. Do you happen to know anything about that? I'd like to flash a custom bios on it to add vcore control to the BIOS, and while I can edit the flags and save the bios, when trying to flash the bios, I am getting a "Secure Flash Rom Verify Fail" error. I've flashed many laptops and motherboards, and this unit in particular is the only one I've ever gotten this error on.

 

1) Maximum
2) Plug the laptop into my Dell 165hz G-Sync monitor, with its bottom upside down (the bottom vents are facing to the sky and the lid is closed)
3) No undervolt whatsoever

 

I set AA to the highest (Filmic T2x or something like that). I prefer to max out the 1070, since it can push many games past the 60 fps limit. What would be the point when you bought a 1070 gpu just to cap it at 60fps right?
I think the bottleneck here is the CPU, since GPU temps never exceed 83°C, or maybe it's the bad design choice by putting one heatpipe from the already suffiently-cooled GPU to make the CPU get hotter unnecessary.
TBH, after many times taking apart to repaste my 1710, I'm now considering selling this to get a desktop for better cooling and upgradability

 

I think you would be happier with a desktop rig, lots more options and no problem getting good cooling. I have one rig with an 8350 and a 970 that can still crank but I did not feel like building another desktop and needing a new laptop went with the 1510.
I have heard new GPU's are coming out next year along with new processors already available so I will wait till next year to build a new desktop.
So far I have been pretty happy with the 1510. But true the cooling is a bit on the weak side but I think that is true of many laptops these days. It has to be pretty difficult to design the smallest system possible with so much power so some compromises have to be made and that means running the chips to there limits.

I noticed in your other post you are running it upside down. I have to tell you that is probably not the best idea since a lot of heat builds up on the keyboard side you should leave it open even on external monitor, definitely get a good quality cooling pad it will make a difference.
One thing you should definitely do and will not hurt performance at all is undervolt the CPU. Most people seem to get into some kind of competition to see how low they can get the number but for me -.100 works great and the temp drop is quite noticeable and usually stays under 80c

I also use Throttlestop to enable Speed Shift which helps performance for some reason Clevo has not option to enable it so I created a task to enable it on boot.

I have not messed with lowering the GPU frequency's to ultimately lower temps since the 1070 rarely breaks 80c

So compromises have to be made with laptops as long as the games or programs I am running run smooth I am okay with it

 

The lid should be open, like Canonfodder mentioned. It will draw air from the vents where the hinges are. By closing the lid, you are covering them.

 

Also the radiated heat from the cover gets trapped.

 

Just noticed some audio feedback in my headphones at low volumes (less than 10) developed. Not a big deal but probably the same bad signal shielding other users have mentioned.

 

Doesn't heat radiate through the bottom lid better since the heatsinks and heatpipes are closer to the lid than it is to the keyboard deck? Also the vents of all three fans are now not being obstructed, so air pressure will make them draw air straight from there instead of the hinges. That being said, when the laptop is put laying flat, the bottom vents will be blocked/limited, therefore it must draw air through any remaining gaps (this case through the hinges)

 

The lid does not really obstruct flow when up, the cushion of air you create between the keyboard and screen acts like a blanket.

 

As Chastity said raising the bottom a bit or cooling pad will help airflow greatly. And as Meaker@Sager pointed out if you keep the lid closed you are trapping radiant heat, that heat has to go somewhere if it's trapped will raise the overall system temps.

A good example of what is going on is in this review at the 3:20 second point using a FLIR heat scope

 

Just an experience tidbit, ever since switching to RS4, I've had some instabilities due to BSODs occurring. Now that I've actually gotten some minidumps to save properly, I was able to determine that it wasn't drivers, but the CPU. Apparently my -,115v underclock was no longer acceptable, and I dropped it to -.100v which seems to have fixed the crashes (so far).

Something to keep in mind for your systems.

 

I also was only able to achieve system stability at undervolting to a max of -.100v. Anything more and I'd have crashing here and there.

 

Your absolute values may be different, what is your load value?

 

I would say the 1710 strictly off personal preference.

Edit, spelling

 

If you do have the carry capacity then it's a nice set of extra features as well as the larger screen.

 

Yes, overall very solid offering and capable machine.

 

Anybody liquid metal-ed their 1710?
I would like to, but im hesitant because I don't know how to test if the heatsink sits fully flush with a level contact.
Also would like to purchase a spare heatsink unit for the inevitable deterioration, anybody know where?

 

To test for flatness you could use marking blue, "Dykem" is a brand sold retail. Rub a small amount lightly and evenly on the CPU & GPU tighten down a bit and wiggle, where you see blue on the sink is contact.
Finding a heat sink might not be so easy since it is more than likely designed for that case, or similar ones.
I would contact a Micro Center repair tech or even Clevo directly to see if obtaining a spare is possible.
ebay is a possibility as well.

Copper is used for the heat sink mating surface but am not sure if the rest is aluminum.
I have never used LM but I guess you should not use it on aluminum, also shouldn't the surface be rough so it sticks better?

 

I used it on my 1510. It worked amazingly. My temps went down considerably. I can't remember what it was exactly, but it was somewhere between a 10C-15C drop. I also undervolted and my CPU temp will not even touch 80 anymore, no matter what games I'm playing.

 

@Canonfodder thanks for the info, I'll invest in some and carry out the test. If it shows good contact then I'll most likely give it a go.
Regarding the rough contact, I've read the contrary, smoothest surface would yield the best results, less imperfections and the heat will travel through less LM onto the heatsink

Looks to me the unit is fully copper, but may be wrong. I'll try and investigate.

@JustK good to hear it's worth it. I just wonder how long till the LM reacts to make the gallium/copper alloy, some guys quote anywhere between 1 -2 years but nothing solid.
So far I'm running a -0.110mv under volt with FPS locked at 60 on all games. 80c is my max temp, but would like to bring it down further.

 

I have not repasted my 1510 but I have set voltage to -.100 and rarely see it hitting 80c, gpu or cpu.
Also on my system I have "Speed Shift" enabled which probably helps as well.

So I am still not entirely convinced repasting would make enough of a difference under load to even make it worth doing given the size and mass of the heat sink and area of the heat pipe fins only so much heat can be dissipated by it to begin with regardless of the paste used.
Really it is more of increasing the amount of air over the fins that would make the difference, I also use a good quality cooling pad.

Would be great if someone could produce solid before and after repaste numbers on temps

 

The speakers are so low! I can barely even hear Netflix playing when the laptop is directly in front of me. But seriously, does anyone know how to fix the speaker volume or do the speakers just suck?

 

Right click on the speaker icon in the lower right part of taskbar and choose playback devices. Click the Realtek high definition audio device and configure as stereo.
Then double click the same device go to advanced and set as 24 bit, 48000 HZ.
Go to enhancements after that and scroll down to "Loudness Equalization" click and apply. If you are playing some music or have a movie going in the background you should here a big difference in the sound level.
You could also try the equalizer and environment settings.
There is also the Soundblaster thing I have heard that can help but I have not messed with it to much

I rarely use the built in speakers I have headsets and a little Bluetooth sound bar that sits nice behind the keyboard and does not obstruct the screen to much at all and they really put out some good sound and have great volume, got them on Amazon made by Anker