PowerSpec 1710 + 1510?

You're welcome! Hopefully you finally got in. Fast Startup is a crafty cow.

 

Hey Guys - I've been rocking the 1510 model for awhile and really love it - unfortunately on a business trip last week I cracked the screen

Wondering if anyone could link me to a replacement model (maybe even with a faster refresh rate) and let me know how hard it would be to replace myself? I've built tons of desktops but never really done more with a laptop than upgrade ram or a harddrive.

If it's too much of a pain I might just take it into Microsoft and hope they can replace with the correct GSync screen.

 

Just use HWinfo64 and get the panel part number. Then look online to purchase one.

 

The mechanics of it are pretty simple, unsnap the front bezel (plastic tools are nice though the screen is not a concern in this case) by slipping in between the LCD and bezel and pulling up. It should be fairly obvious.

 

Has anyone seen this year's newer powerspec laptop replacing the 1510? Is this one also a rebranded clevo? https://www.microcenter.com/product/602316/1520-156-gaming-laptop-computer---black

 

Yarp. That's based on the PB51xx.

 

There's a 1720 too.

https://www.microcenter.com/product/602317/1720-173-gaming-laptop-computer---black

 

Interesting they are releasing with the 8th gen chips.

 

@GrinningColossus @Chastity I saw that too, and they don't include the extra drive...just one drive. And no thunderbolt...even for the 17"? Anyone look at it in person? I heard that it has a plastic chassis all around. It does look like the battery is externally removable, which is pretty nice.

Any driver updates / updates I should know about for the 1510?

Can I get help with a black screen problem?

1. This happens randomly. I've been having an issue where my laptop screen goes black (like a screensaver...even though I have it set to none.) If I catch it soon enough, I can move my wireless mouse and return to what I was doing. If I don't catch it in time, I can't move my mouse or press keys or anything to get it out of the "screensaver." Ultimately, I have to restart my computer.

2. Also, this randomly happens. My laptop will restart if I leave it idle for a minute. I can't figure out if it's truly crashing... I never see any type of warning or BSOD, but Event Viewer will sometimes say I had an unexpected shut down. I can't figure out if it's Bimbos 10 or my laptop. I've tried troubleshooting, but no success... HOWEVER, the idle issue does seem to be better since my recent Bimbos update.

 

Something on your system doesn't like Suspend and Wake. Things you can try:

1) Update Chipset INF with /overall switch to force update it to same build
2) Turn off USB Power Suspend
3) Update drivers
4) turn off hibernate and Fast Boot
5) buy some Popeye's Spicy chicken

 

Fix

Enviado desde mi LYA-L29 mediante Tapatalk

 

I was wondering if anyone is overclocking the memory on their 1710/1510, and if so, what speed and settings? I decided to try and got 2666 working with 16-17-17-42. Be prepared to open the bottom and disconnect battery and CMOS lead, because Fn-D+Power won't work when the BIOS fails to POST.

The RipJaws here are Hynix memory modules.

 

Correct, it comes with one 500GB NVME SSD and a single 16GB DDR4 2666 stick. On purchase, I added a second NVME SSD and additional 16GB DDR4 2666.

Correct, no Thunderbolt 3. It does support up to 4 monitors including the laptop display which is really cool.

It is plastic chassis externally, with a bare inner aluminum backing on the lower lid which helps displace heat. They even include thermal pads for the SSD's.

The external battery is interesting to me. Seems "old" in design, but a lot of people still want that feature! I'd like to know where to buy a second battery?

The 1720 has a BIOS overclocking tool as well. Currently I have mismatched (2) 16GB DDR4 2666 sticks with Hynix and Micron modules. They've achieved 3000MHz 18-18-18-41 1T @ 1.35v stable so far. I do not think there is much more though, being mismatched and 16GB sticks.

On the 1720, after 3 failed POST attempts the BIOS/CMOS automatically resets to default settings and reboots for you. zero user intervention. Really nice feature.

 

@4W4K3

1) Single memory stick? Well that's fail, as this will halve your memory bandwidth. Glad you bought a second.

2) No Thunderbolt 3 = no eGPU potential. Meh. I like having the idea of that option for when the lappy is 4 yrs old.

3) Plastic chassis? Meh. I've grown fond of the 1710 chassis.

4) While I do like an external battery, the custom design usually means $$ to replace. Tho it is nice for those who travel, being able to swap out a battery. I suppose you could also do external battery packs to the AC outlet.

 

Makes upping the memory very easy though.

 

It's how they achieved the $1,499 price tag I imagine.

Some users will see 16GB DDR4 and be happy. They will never notice single channel mode, or even understand what it is.

Even other users will see 500GB NVME and be happy. They will never fill it up, and they won't even realize there are TWO other empty harddrive slots in the machine.

If the PB70EF-G came with two memory sticks, multiple harddrives, a full aluminum/metal chassis; you would expect to pay closer to $1,700-1,800 or even more. Laptops with those specs are easily in the $2,000 retail from some other brands.

So, despite the 1720 not meeting exactly your preferences there is some logic as to why and how they sell it in this configuration.

 

Get an 8gb stick in there and its 16gb dual channel with an extra 8gb extra should you need it.

 

His came with a 16GB stick. If he threw in an 8, he would have 16GB at dual channel, and 8 at single channel. Better to just throw in another 16GB.

 

Depends on the spare cash

 

One can always donate plasma.

 

Upon my effort to upgrade my 1.5 years old PowerSpec1510, I read across the P650HS-G manual and found that there are 2 options for the 2.5'' SATA slots on page 37 of the manual:

"Two changeable 2.5" (6cm) 7.0mm (h) SATA (Serial) Hard Disk Drives/Solid State Drives (SSD) supporting RAID level 0/1
Or
One changeable 2.5" (6cm) 9.5mm (h) SATA (Serial) Hard Disk Drive/Solid State Drive (SSD) "

The default configuration of my laptop comes with 1 HDD Hitachi 2.5" 1TB 5400 rpm installed on SATA port 2. I wonder if I can buy another SSD to plug in the remaining SATA port (SATA port 3) and use it as an independent drive with no RAID to the current HDD in port 2? I am leaning my way so all advice is welcome.

 

Depends on the height of the existing drive.

 

Finished. Thank you, @ Meaker@Sager, for your comments. I did not notice the difference in drive height. I have to solve some hardware conflicts due to the fact that new SSD is not automatically recognized by Windows. After a day, it works like champ now. Now my device has 48GB RAM for several virtual machines, 1TB Samsung EVO Plus (boot drive for Windows), 1TB Crucial MX500 and 1TB HDD.

One small thing, during my Window installation, I accidentally messed up formatting both the Crucial MX500 (Disk 0) and Samsung EVO+ (Disk 2) since they are both 1TB and look the same in Window installation stage (LOL). First I accidentally install Windows in the MX500. Then I removed it and installed Window inn the EVO+ and then plug back the MX500. Now their partitions also look the same as each other although I have reformatted the MX500 after finishing installing Windows in the EVO+. The Bios also recognizes the MX500 as the second boot drive (the EVO+ is the first boot drive) although there is nothing there. I wonder if there is a way to format the MX500 to make it look like HDD drive E:\ (Disk 1).

 

You can delete the partitions and start over if you want to clean out the recovery and middle partition.

 

Awesome, done. All has been set. Love how the new SSD performs. Thank you very much for your helpful comments.

 

Enjoy

 

The cmos battery on the 1510 is just glued down right? I'd just use some electrical tape to set it after resetting? Black screen orz, tried fn d pwr

 

Usually the tape is sticky enough to put back in if you have to remove it at all, you can pull the connector out and leave the cell in place.

 

Hmm.. went through memory, cmos, external monitor, no drives, discharging through power button, and no battery. Is there a hardware restart button?

When I started having problems only the external monitor worked (with hard freezing). The OS would boot with white squiggles going across the screen. The last time I could login (after a restore) I tried updating the GPU and Windows update (some monitor update). There was a freeze into a grey screen and now only a black screen.

With only fans/leds and no post looks like I'm dead after a year and a half. Not sure if I can touch the GPU, all ribbons seem to be where they should be. Not sure what else I could do/if a professional could do more. Guess I can still charge my Bluetooth headphones orz

 

It does sound like a GPU issue.

 

1) On the 1710 the battery is screw mounted, making it easier to remove.

2) In 4 months my 2 yr warranty will expire. Very glad I repasted so early on, as I do leave my laptop running usually 24/7, and with OBSIDIAN-PC's Fan Control, the fans aren't constantly running as hard, helping them to live on longer. Temps are cooler vs original paste job. I also keep the laptop on a cooler to give it elevation.

Also enjoying my OC on the memory modules to DDR4-2666.

 

I just bought one of those fancy laptop coolers you put on the side vent to vacuum the air out (someone mentioned one in this thread at some point). I started noticing my undervolted, IC Diamond repasted 1510 still peaking at 99C in this summer weather (to be fair I forgot to FN+1 to max fans before gaming) and it was a few bucks off on prime day. I was sold when I saw a LinusTechTips video ( link) where an equivalent clevo chassis was their test unit and it dropped temps by 10+ degrees C. I didn't buy the Micro Center replacement plan at the time sadly but now that I can afford this its the next best thing to prolong my machine (best PC I've ever had and I'd hate to lose it, still need to think of other ways to prolong it and I welcome all suggestions).

 

Prop the back up for extended sessions an inch.

 

Silly mobile signal.

 

Sounds like the pasting needs to be redone. I have summer temps too and I still don't go nowhere near 99C. (More like 83C)

 

Also check the pressure looks good by examining the pattern left by the paste when removing the heatsink.

 

I still need to test with and without max fans if I want to find the optimal cooling, but results of using this opolar vacuum cooler look promising so far. Haven't repasted just yet, not convinced it'll help much (I still need to find some precision tweezers in case something tiny/difficult-to-reattach comes out like last time).

 

The Ifixit kit is really good if you want something to work on notebooks.

 

I went through with the repaste, got one of my tech support buddies/coworkers to judge the paste before screwing it back on

I'm using the same IC Diamond I used last time, the difference is I had way too much on last time.

After I applied some new paste, my buddy told me to cut in half, so I did and this is what I ultimately went with.

https://i.imgur.com/8wnpCPy.mp4 - video in case that picture is unclear

In a quick test temperatures went down a bit, and didn't pass 74 C on the Hitman 2 benchmark or Street Fighter V gameplay. I only ran them a few minutes, though.

Side note, I didn't have any trouble with small wires coming loose this time, so I didn't need the tweezers, but something else that was bugging me was that I wasn't sure if I had to leave the small pieces of tape in there that are meant to hold down wires. I had a few starting to come off, and while I'm not scared of them coming loose and damaging anything, I don't think they're really serving any purpose. It's also hard to judge whether the fan power cables are meant to go above, under, or around the heatsinks. There aren't any clear channels to route them through, so I just tucked them in, as close to how they were as possible.

 

The tape is just to keep things organised and not pinched by a scew or plastic.

 

You certainly had too much for the CPU. Damn. Half of it rolled off. So yes, the size of a small pea should be sufficient.

 

I'm having problems with my Nvidia card. Under Device Manager, I'm getting, "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"

I did a clean install of the graphics drivers with DDU and GeForce...please help.

 

@Chowda289

I had that issue once after an update. Usually means the Intel driver is stepping on the NVIDIA chip's attempts to boot properly. Use DDU and remove both Intel and NVIDIA driver in Safe Mode. Reboot and install Intel first, then install the NVIDIA driver.

Use DCH for both driver packages.

 

Did you get any odd behaviour before this happened?

 

Just an update: decided to upgrade my 1710's storage, bought an Intel 660p 2TB NVME for slot2, and will replace the stock 960 EVO 250GB in slot 1 with my existing 960 EVO 500GB.

1TB HDD is being replaced with 1TB 860 EVO SATA.

 

@Chastity What's DCH?

@Meaker@Sager Umm...a few. I have times where my computer would reboot...like there was a power issue? I'd have Kernel Processor Power errors (processor 1 being limited by system firmware.) I'm not always sure what to look for under Event Viewer. Initially, I had issues with my screen going black. Like a screensaver...but I couldn't come out of it. Yet, the computer would still be running. I could still hear my music, etc. Also, if I started my computer out of sleep, it would sometimes have a black screen and not go away. Again, the computer would be running. I was told I was having an issue with Windows 10, so I changed a few things. It seemed to have gone away? Or I believed it did... Then, I had issues after Windows did an update. I thought it might've messed up my graphics drivers. I could get to my game login screen and login, but I couldn't actually play. The game would end up closing. I did a game repair, and I reinstalled drivers for the graphics cards. It seemed to be okay. THEN, my computer randomly crashed...and it restarted pixelated. I did a clean install of my NVidia drivers, but it was still pixelated. I switched to MS Hybrid. It looks fine while I'm in MS Hybrid. I did another clean install for NVidia, switched back to Discrete, but it's still pixelating. It's not terrible pixelating, but enough to be causing problems. I've just been staying on MS Hybrid for now. I do feel like my temperatures have been throttling a bit. I tried gaming under MS Hybrid, and my keyboard seemed to get a bit warm. I never had that problem before.

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000031275/graphics-drivers.html

 

Can anyone recommend where to buy an additional power adapter for the 1710?

Thanks!

 

Micro Center sells one. https://www.microcenter.com/product/505716/230w-laptop-ac-adapter

It is identical to the one that comes with it, and it comes in a very generic brown box with a label that says Powerspec 1510 and 1710 on it. Check the aisle they keep laptop adapters. If you give a sales associate the sku number (743831) that also helps them find it.

 

@Chastity @Meaker@Sager I removed both my Intel and Nvidia drivers in Safe Mode. I installed the Intel DCH drivers, but I haven't done Nvidia. How do I install Nvidia DCH drivers? I keep reading to install Nvidia Control Panel from the Microsoft store.

I went to Nvidia to search the drivers. Which driver do I install? Nvidia Studio Driver or GeForce Game Ready Driver? I have a PowerSpec 1510 with the GTX 1070. Thanks for your help!