Simple and very effective cooling "mod" for p775dm2/p775dm3

Hi everybody! i ve finally decided to share my finding on making the cooling better for the Clevo p775dm2/3 better while still keeping it simple and easy.

a while ago i have made a post about p870dm/dm1 thermal pads layout that helps to make a better heatsink/die contact. but that was a bit complex task and does not always give the best results, especially when it comes to unified HS like p7xx does!

recently i have found a much better, simple and effective way to do it, without even changing the thermal pads.

so far this has been tested on all p7xx models and p870dm/dm2/dm3/km models except for the GRID sli heatsink(this need some more thoughts to be made)

i attach the pictures, i am pretty sure it simple to understand what have been done, so i will not go into much details, but if you will have questions - feel free to ask!

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more to come

 

We use this method from always

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i wish i've learned this earlier!

 

not all of us

 

more details for other may help like me
add as much as you can please

 

Please ask if you are missing something - i will gladly expand on that!

 

I get what's going on in post #1. You are using toothpick segments on the CPU spring arms and plastic coated paperclips under the GPU spring arms as a fulcrum to increase contact pressure. What a slick way to increase pressure on the CPU and GPU die. Great idea. Thanks for sharing it.

I don't understand what I am looking at in the photograph in post #2. What are the three metal strips? What purpose are they serving and where do you get the materials for that? Also, why only on three sides instead of all four? Are they glued down, and do you have any insulation on the bottom of the metal strips to keep them from shorting on components underneath them?

 

you mean around the DIE? thats just standart clevo stripes that are there by default.
the picture did not fit in the first posts 5pic limitation, so i had to post it separately to show the TIM "footprint"

 

Oh really? That must be only for the the GPUs install in the P7 machines. I have never seen those on a 1080 in a P8 machine.

 

no, it's actually the same gpu @p7 @p8! this is gtx 1070

 

Same PCB but there can be slight differences in what is stuck on.

 

I think 1070 looks same on p8 and p7

 

That is possible. I have never examined a 1070.

 

Very interesting. I might give it a try once my system comes back.

 

Do you have any results to show improvement? I'm currently in discussion with my seller about my heatsink which makes poor contact. If this actually works then it could be a solution.

 

which videocard do you have and which CPU? and barebone model?

to answer your question: I have a dramatic improvement with this mod, around 7-10 degrees off, especially on GPU.

poor contact is a general problem with recent Clevo heatsinks, on almost all model range. your supplier has nothing to do with it, nor they can fix this. unless they do something like this

try my mod and post your results please.

some individual heatsinks also have a slight benefit from a thermal pads swap combined together with this mod. I will make a guide later, right now I am switching homes, so my hands are tide atm.

 

but beyond simple temperature drop - there is a huge benefit from this modification: and that is a possibility to use Liquid Metal on the GPU!

FYI: p775dm3 with this mod, 6700k CLU delided, undervolted -100mv, CLU'd gtx 1080 undervolted @ 900vm stable 1860mhz both hardly go over 79 C at AIDA64 stress test FPU + CPU + Cache + GPU for 1 hour.

and that is with Automatic Fan Profile at CC with not so loud fan noise actually. seems the profiles are made to maintain 80C and don't bother to spin faster.

 

Bending the retention arms to exert even pressure on the core is something I had to do on both my GPUs (liquid metal shows it up very visibly) Then after that the heatpipe needed realignment too so it sat flush at the fan end

Heatpipes are not strong, it is quite easy to bend them unintentionally especially if you hold them wrong and exert too much pressure on them while trying to break the 'suction' on sticky thermal paste, trying to pull heatsinks off straight up requires a *lot* more force than levering along an edge or corner

 

I have a P775DM3-G with 6700k and 1080. I'm using liquid metal currently and I recently delidded my CPU. I may well try this as I mentioned earlier my contact on chips isn't great. A guide would be great do the clips and wooden section stay in permanently? Also the metal paper clip is no risk of conducting anything unwanted

 

My main concern would be making bad contact worse or even damaging the heatsink to the extent my warranty wouldn't replace it. First removal of my heatsink was a nightmare due to the awful paste and sheer amount used by supplier

 

Using too much seems to be a commonality between some suppliers/technicians and consumers. As long as it's not electrically conductive, better to err on the side of caution and use a little bit too much than to use too little.

 

My seller hasn't really impressed me. Wish I'd known about other sellers. I think I'm going to try this mod

 

Excess paste wont damage anything, just be a bit less efficient when loads is used.

 

they do stay in permanently or I would even say "fixed in"



metal clips have plastic isolation on them, but even without them - they do not touch anything that can be short circuited etc

 

I still suggest you to change the thermal pads by 0.5mm thinner. I use Arctic pads as they they take form you push them too.

 

Thanks for sharing this mod. The temperature of my graphics card fell by 4-5 degrees. Clevo p870dm gtx 980

 

see then this becomes more than a simple mod as replacing pads is expensive to use good quality. I'm happy with my pads but I know from my first paste job from supplier to repasting myself a second time from the paste spread that good contact isn't being made. I'd like to try this mod but not if it could make the problem worse. Plus if I changed my pads I wouldn't know if it was the mod itself or the pads that had resulted in any improvement. Thank you for the information about the insulated clips and leaving the pieces in.

 

as you can see in my first post - I have not replaced the manufacturer's thermal pads and got a 100% contact. but the original pads are crap in my personal opinion.

also, I think that not simple mod is when you have to solider something down, cut or ground. changing thermal pads Is as easy as it can be.

besides Arctic thermalpads are quite cheap on ebay, check it.

 

Beginners are best off getting some nice spongy pads as it will help them stick and get the best contact.

 

I'm quite happy with the pads atm as I said I'll try this mod and hopefully get an improvement without changing pads. I'm using liquid metal so any extra contact is going to help a lot

 

Any further info on the improvements seen from this mod?

 

Cool! Will try that on my p775dm3...

 

Let me know if it actually helps

 

Well, I just did the trick and I f.....g WORKS!!
GPU temperature dropped to a mere 65°C after 30m of Project Cars... Before the trick, I reached 85°C within 5min of gaming.
Gotta say THANK YOU!
Will post tomorrow (or when I have 5 min for myself) a screenshot of HW64 and a pic of the kind of "retention" mod I did. But I works for sure!!

Edit: all that on automatic fan profile of course (room temp ~17°C). Will also try with the fan boost just to check the temps.

 

Really?? Yeah I'd like to see the pics etc. Is it mainly the improved contact on the chips that's helping?

 

yes, too much TIM on the way block thermal conductivity

 

this mod is especially effective for those who want to use liquid metal on GPU without replacing the thermalpads.

few things to add: don't use the 5th screw on the GPU HS with this mod and add 2 more clips, 1 to each side after you screw/unscrew it with the first 2 for maximum connection.

 

Here you go. As you can see, I just add paper clips below each metal clip, in order to improve contact between the HS and the GPU die.
You just need to be EXTRA CAREFUL when you tighten the screws as there is no protection. If you tighten too much, you may add an excessive pressure to the GPU die and it may crack.
But the results are here: almost 20°C!! Forgot to mention that thermal paste is Arctic Cooling MX2, so not one of the best out on the market.

 

These are the temps after a 15m session of GPU Burn in MSI Kombustor followed by 45m of gaming on Project Cars.
As you can see, the GPU temps are very low, and I did not even undervolt the card...
CPU is a 7700K ES clocked at 3.7Ghz with Turbo @ 4.0Ghz

 

you can actually tighten the screws down all the way, just do it slowly. believe me, the thermal pads are your protection. even after you screw it down, it will take a few seconds for the pads to fully squeeze.

 

Well the temperature is low enough for me. I'll leave it that way
It would be a bummer to kill my 1070...

 

wow, will try that for my P775DM3-G too.

 

i received a new heatsink and when i apply grizzly metal, gpu was reaching 97 in boot then shutting down ( i guess no contact) , i apply your trick and ic7 and pressure was back and even better temp, gaming max 52*c. Cant wait to test with liquid metal, Awesome research+++

 

Anyone tried with vapor heatsink?

 

for vacuum chamber only pad replacement will work or a much harder mod, requiring drilling and thin spring tounge-like sheet( or old p170xx HS toungues) . I usually use thermal paste on vRAM instead of pads and push the rest of the pads by thumb a bit down..

 

what thermal paste you are using on vram? because it hasnt to be thick since pads are a liltle thicker than a paste?

 

Drilling and vapor chamber sounds like a bad combination...

 

Any ideas how to incrase heatsink presure to CPU on P775TM?

 

Should be the same paperclip trick as for the GPU HS. Although results should be much better if you CPU is delid