Xoticpc copper cooling upgrade?

Oh snap, that is true. Back to the drawing board.

 

There is a couple of other treads regarding adding additional copper heat sinks onto the GPU and CPU heatsink. I'm one of those people who had done it. In conclusion, IT DOES NOT WORK.

Save your money and spend it on games or other stuff. I left the heatsink in there because I'm too lazy to take them out. It didn't help, but it didn't hurt either. Only mod that's known to work is by adding fans to increase the air flow.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...oling-performance-instaling-2-extra-fans.html

 

Well I am curious about the copper tape vs aluminum tape mod. Since there is a thin layer of adhesive, wouldn't that destroy the thermal conductivity of the metal? I think it would. Now it will help air get forced through the heatsinks but that is about it. As far as adding the heatsinks I think that would work if they were thermal epoxied into place. I have a large heatsink that I am going to cut down and put in my case. I may use one of the larger fins to use in conjunction with the tape mod.

 

The copper or aluminum tape itself is not going to affect much. It's only when it's a full block of aluminum or full block of copper where you will really notice the difference. That adhesive is not much of the factor as well. At the end of the day, it's all about how much air you can push to help getting rid of the heat.

Epoxy is a good adhesive and is a good medium to transfer. How is your modified heatsink going to look like and where are you adding your modified heatsink?? If the fins are inside the enclosure with no air pushing, it's not going to work. Putting a bigger heatsink inside of your laptop is not going to drop the temperature. In fact, you may end up with higher temperature. It's virtually dead air and all you did is putting a giant heat source inside your laptop. Heat is not going to go anywhere. You must have moving air blowing on the fins and out of the laptop.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...-7970m-gpu-cooling-performance-foiled-37.html

Anyway, this is the thread that discussed about adding copper memory heatsink. You may want to take a look a this before spending time to do your mod.

 

If you intend to cut holes with mesh covers and have it sitting over a cooler pad then it works, but otherwise it just adds weight.

 

I am not sure how the Xotic PC copper cooling is installed. I've seen some pics from some people buying the copper cooling upgrade, it seems like they only stick some copper shims on the heatsink, which can be bought from ebay or Amazon around $7 for 10 copper shims. This sounds so easy to do and cost around $10. I don't know why Xotic PC charges a lot for this upgrade.
Probably, they might do something else.
Does anyone have any idea how the copper cooling upgrade works?

 

It's done exactly how you described, with no magic involved. Frankly, you're stupid if you knowingly pay them $79, for what you can do yourself for less than $10.

 

So the copper sinks shave off at least 2 to 3 degrees, without adding fans? Correct?
Cutting down temps from 80 to 77-78, pretty good in my books... I'm off to order some.


Half relevant: we won't be seeing custom fan speeds any time soon, will we? The re seller's bios that's installed, has the little bad boy cooling the cpu runs at 4000 rpm with Fn+1. It's a little extreme, as it will never go above 2500 rpm while gaming anyway... Plus, the noise, makes twice as much as the gpu. it's scary.

 

Thanks! If so, it isn't ever worth $79. I've heard some models only have a few copper shims (3-5), which are overcharged.
This is even more expensive than the Redline Boost upgrade option, which needs some skills and knowledge.

 

Guys this is an old thread I know, but some of the cheap "copper" heatsinks your seeing advertised everywhere are NOT copper, so just a little warning!


they are the wrong colour for a start - stick with EnzoTek - they are superb quality solid copper, or Zalman, equally high quality aluminium.

The cheap looking ones are aluminium electro plated, to test, just weigh it, copper is nearly 9g per cm/3, Aluminium is about 3g cm/3 - make a rough estimate of the length x width x height (ie. knock some off for the air gaps) and compare, copper is so much heavier you really only need to guess at the volume. (weight all the ones you have together and work out what one must weight to get a more accurate measure) copper sinks of a very low profile should weigh about 5g each, aluminium about 1.5g each

the shipping weights give it away, some of them including the whole packaging weigh what the just the heatsinks alone should weigh....... alarm bells are ringing......

 

Or you know, just don't bother getting any ^-^

 

I did it like this, I'm not sure if it helps or not...

 

If you run it exposed like that or with holes put into the cover then it would, otherwise in the long term gaming sessions it may hurt.

 

This is great work and looks genius.Sorry for this obvious questions --> little fans in second pic blows air inside and holes in pic 3 to let hot air go out.

 

this is the upgrade on Sager NP9380

if you get it you have to be careful, because the ones that were on the heat pipes, the two, fell off when the computer heated up during a game, so i took the 2 on the heat pipes off and put pressure on the ones on the heatsyncs when the computer was still warm, i think my temp was 60degrees cel when i put pressure on it, just gotta make sure the adhesive stays on.

edit: in all honesty i dont think they make a difference, just looks beasty. I took them off and i was still having the same temps as them on. I just like the way they look.

when my order was processing I removed them on day 4 on phase 2, and they didnt charge me for them. when i got the computer they were installed, so i got them for free, couldnt complain

 

BudMarLeY ,are this copper heatsinks and additional middle fan installed by XoticPC.Can you measure temps in gaming mode.

 

I have the Dual 780m running in SLI the fans on the left and right are for the GPU's and the one in the middle is for the CPU. So yes they are preinstalled. Under the middle fan the CPU is housed. The heatsyncs were installed by XoticPC. And I use GPU-Z and nvidiaInspector to check my temps, both programs log the temps for later viewing and show real time temps on the desktop.

 

hi just my thoughts for people who have fitted something like a 40x20x7mm 5v fan above the gpu main heatsink and cut tbh ugly holes to allow air in. well cut a hole to suit this tweeter cover fit it remove any parts ie the lugs as to give maxium space between components and cover super glue it in and it would give you a kind of oem finish http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2006-Renault-Megane-II-CC-1-9-Centre-Dash-Board-Tweeter-Speaker-Cover-8200078997-/00/s/NzUwWDEwMDA=/z/5SgAAMXQVT9SpzuP/$_12.JPG

 

I have been looking through this thread and others related over the past couple days. I cannot find where i can buy the blower for this. I have bought the cosmos 8 copper heat sinks which will arrive tomorrow (Amazon Prime ships on sundays, how amazing is that). I don't know much about everyone elses background though it is obvious theres some hobbyist electronics guys in here, but I know a fair bit about heat transfer so I have an idea in mind of how I will install these heat sinks without using extra blowers for maximum effect.

Ultimately heat does not want to transfer through air, air is a resistance to heat transfer and that is key. Increasing air flow increases heat transfer from a surface though which is the application of modern day heat sinks. My approach is different because ultimately increasing the mass of copper increases the amount of store energy in the system. The CPU is the source of heat energy and the finned plate next to the blower is the sink. the blower flushes air through the fins at a rate and the CPU produces the same heat energy, the system reaches an equilibrium. I have a feeling the bottleneck of the system is how fast or effectively the heat is transferred to the fin plate, rather than the air flow through it. My solution for this is to align the copper heat sinks so they are in direct contact with each other and with the fin plate on top of the 2 existing copper tubes. Being in direct contact *should* allow for heat transfer through adjacent heat sinks given the laws of thermodynamics. If this works, effectively you are increasing the capacity for transferring heat from source to sink, thus increasing heat transfer. This is all theoretically sound on paper but it will require rigging up and testing so when I have the results in 24hrs time I will post them up.

If you don't have extra blowers installed, I would strongly suggest to NOT put the copper heat sinks on top of the copper plate itself above the CPU or GPU. It will likely give you reduce temps initially but without the additional air flow, the fins on the heat sinks are exposed to stagnant air meaning very poor heat transfer and once the heat capacity is reached, these heat sinks aren't directly attached to the line which removed the heat: the 2 copper tubes and the fin plate. The heat cannot transfer effectively over so it just sits there in the heat sink and the temperature goes up. Some people have reported higher temperatures and this is likely the reason. Try to create a track of connected heat sinks which acts as further capacity or further tubes to remove heat from CPU and take it to the fin plate.

 

Hmmm... Since I'm not going to use an external cooler, I guess I just probably made my temps worse for 79 bucks. Wish I had read this thread before I placed the order but meh, we'll see.

 

Not necessarily. It all depends on how they set it up and how many heat sinks you get for the money. I will report back tomorrow to see if my theory pans out. If it does, then theres no harm done. Todays computers are much better though. I have the P151sm which is the P150sm without the backlit keyboard and lower spec GPU (765m) and my current temps are already low. I put AS5 on my CPU and I currently have 10 windows, over 100 tabs, open in chrome, including java and flash. I have steam running, 5 word docs, 6 excel spreadsheets, autocad, 10 PDFs (currently doing some design work) and my temps are around 45-50C for all 4 cores (i7-4700mq) and the fan is on the lowest speed. Im still breaking in the AS5 i only pasted it yesterday.

My GPU I would have repasted if OEM wasn't so ridiculously epic! I ran kombuster on the stock speeds and my max GPU temp is 63C including the boost. But that maxes the fan too. I can literally overclock the stock clock by 112 and the shader by 550 and still doesn't touch 70C. The 800 series GPU is supposed to run much cooler. Impressive spec by the way.

 

Yeah they're putting IC Diamond on it plus the additional heatsinks... I don't really think thermals will be an issue, especially since I'm horrible with heat so I keep the A/C on 70F all summer long.

The machine is definitely beast mode. I wanted to get another machine that would still be useful in 5 years so I went all out plus the money I have has to be spent anyway so I might as well invest in a new machine.

 

I really wish xotic sold kits for cheaper for those DIY people. I have a tube of ICD 7 and I wonder how much better my temps could get doing this to my 8298.

 

You can buy copper ramsinks off eBay but they are only the first step to get anything out of them, you will maybe want a second cover to modify to allow airflow and then you need to get a decent cooling pad to generate it.

You will want to swap the covers if you take the machine around with you as the holes can cause issues.

 

Ok so I would be lying if I said it made a drastic improvement. The CPU just takes a little longer to reach its peak temperature but I don't use a cooling pad, I just have a targus chill mat which raises the laptop and has 2 pathetic fans which wouldn't even tickle ones chin hair. I dont use it and save a USB connection in the process.

CPU temp peaks at 81 with max fans, used to peak at 79 but I have a feeling its because theres currently a heat wave and my room is like an oven. But its not an actual oven, you couldnt cook anything in my room, i digress.
GPU temp I used unigine because in all my time using this computer I found it gave a better representation than kombustor ever did, but the unigine temp went down from 63/64 to 60/61 and this in a room that is much hotter than usual.

I cheated with the GPU bit, under the laptop CPU/GPU cover, there is a copper plate that has been stuck to it. I realised the GPU heat sink pipes were raised and so I put 4 of the copper heat sinks onto that and noticed when I put the cover back on it makes contact with the copper plate on there now. I used some thermal paste, a very thin layer, to confirm the contact is made and this looks like an extra bit of 'relief' for the temperature on the GPU. My previous kombuster score was around 73C which again i felt was unrealistic because I use HWmonitor for GPU temp tracking and after gaming I just check what the max was, its always around 64C on there and on GPU-Z log files too.

 

It has been like 2 years since you did this but I have a question. I saw the holes you drilled into the back of the cover for air flow to exit the laptop. I was thinking perhaps it would be possible to use a DC connector, glue it in place in one of the holes and wire it up to the fans and then to use a USB to DC connector which I have seen available to hook it up and manually turn the fans on and off using a usb port. do you think this would be possible, given that you have had experience using the fans?

 

Or you just steal power from the pins on the PCB itself and don't have external cables.

 

I dont want to lose power on my existing fans. If they are rated at 5W and then I steal 2W for smaller fans the power will be reduced on the main fans. Im not a fan of external cables but I would rather have additional capability than redistributed power across more fans.

I just realised how many times i said fan

 

No I mean the pins that connect the usb header to the motherboard.

 

That makes sense, I will look into it!

 

Certainly a cleaner look, either way you loose the port but if you want the power it is a "safe" place to get it. You can turn it off by disabling the hub it is connected to but of course then loose all the ones connected to that. This makes the choice of port important.