Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

Oh the temps are amazing. I'm referring to the quality of the chip and its limitations. (Lower end of the bin?)

::iunlock::

 

Some 3rd party cards won't even reach 2Ghz properly. 2050-2100mhz is a good sample at stock voltage especially. With 1.1v you could see even higher.

Certainly no bad bins yet.

 

With the weak gpu over clock lol...you guys should be able to smash this with your awesome chips.



Man I'm really bummed....really. The GPU won't even get close to what other fellow 1080'ers have for their OC on the Core and Memory. Totally disappointing. This is a loss either way in the silicon lottery.

Er...my expectations are high...maybe that's it...

::iunlock::

 

Hey now, your scores are actually great We have a difference of less than 4 in average fps.


I also believe you're the only one who posted a Heaven score for the p775dm3

 

Very nice! Thanks for sharing, it's always nice to see scores from the same camp with 1080's.

Yea I wish more 775 owners would post up benches Hopefully soon..

This GPU clock issue is a thorn Trying to fine tune it the best I can, but if the hardware is just not capable then eeeeks....

 

Don't be too quick to blame the hardware. Remember, the NVIDIOT wieners are the masters of artificial gimping with driver and firmware stupidity in excess. See if this @j95 driver mod works out better for you. Be sure to DDU and follow the instructions explicitly, delete all but the 5 folders specified after extracting the desktop drivers and use the tweaked Clevo INF files. You may be experiencing a gimp-o-rama courtesy of the Green Goblin and their digital equivalent of HIV drivers.

Also test with MSI Afterburner and Precision X removed (uninstalled) using only NVIDIA Inspector for overclocking. If things improve you can try the new version of Precision X for Pascal. Don't use Clevo OC utility while troubleshooting the low performance issue. Might not hurt to just uninstall Clevo Command Center until you are done testing.

First try the mod for GeForce 372.54 and see if things improve:
https://www.techinferno.com/index.p...ort-modded-inf/&do=findComment&comment=148020

After testing the above driver mod, DDU and try GeForce 372.90:
https://www.techinferno.com/index.p...ort-modded-inf/&do=findComment&comment=149918

 

Excellent. Thank you. I'll be on it as soon as I get back to the office and will post back the results.

Cheers!

Update: Please confirm if this is correct.

1. Download the GeForce 372.54 Win10 RS1 driver.
2. Boot into Safe Mode.
3. Open cmd (Admin) and Disable driver signing by entering in script as it is listed in the directions.
4. Reboot, F8, select "Disable Driver Signature Enforcement.
5. Install the drivers. (This is plural. Are there other components that need to be installed?)
6. Run DDU and Clean the older driver I take it?
7. Shut down and Enter back into Safe Mode?
8. Extract the downloaded driver from Step 1.
9. Display.Driver folder, then it says copy/overwrite the proper .inf file(s). Are these the files under Clevo Laptops (non-Optimus)? If so, that link for Win10 is broken.
10. Delete the folders as shown in the screen shot.
11. Run setup.exe
12. Is that it?

What are the INF MOD v372.54 scripts below the screenshot?

Thanks.

 

I can settle for a 5% loss of performance, as long as my laptopy will be within the normal standards.

Those processes sound really complicated and I don't want to artificially gimp or enhance performance, I'm actually buying it for pure work and reliability.

I am going to do something really strong though, when I have a free week or two weeks, I am going to do everything in my power, (including artificial AC cooling) to see what is the highest score I'll get. Maybe I'll be there at the top with everyone else, who knows? xD

But until then, work is more important xD

 

No, you've made it far more complicated with too many steps. I corrected the order below. Links are working fine.

@j95 GeForce 372.54 desktop driver mod:
https://www.techinferno.com/index.p...ort-modded-inf/&do=findComment&comment=148020

@j95 GeForce 372.90 desktop driver mod:
https://www.techinferno.com/index.p...ort-modded-inf/&do=findComment&comment=149918

1. Download the GeForce 372.54 Win10 desktop driver
2. Extract the contents into a folder of your choice
3. Delete the folders as shown in the screen shot (only 5 folders remain)
4. Download INF files for Clevo Laptops (non-Optimus)
5. Extract INF files into Display.Driver folder, overwrite the original .inf file(s)
6. Open cmd (Admin) and Disable driver signing enable Lecagy Menu by entering in script as it is listed in the directions
7. Reboot into Safe Mode
8. Run DDU and Clean the older driver using install new GPU option
9. Power up, F8 to invoke Legacy Menu, select "Disable Driver Signature Enforcement"
10. Run setup.exe to install the driver package
11. Reboot, open NVIDIA Control Panel, choose Use advanced 3D image settings radio button, go to Global settings tab and change all available settings options to maximum performance for everything

 

Hmm..
This is all i do :

1. Do the extract/delete folders and replace the files.
2. CMD as admin :
bcdedit /set {current} testsigning yes
3. Boot into Safe Mode
4. DDU Cleanup
5. Restart and Install Driver
6. Once installation is done :
bcdedit /set {current} testsigning no
7. Reboot
8. ??
9. Profit.

 

Why do you post 6.? You don't have to do that

 

I despise Driver Signature Enforcement and have it permanently disabled. I never need to enable/disable it.

I also require the Legacy Boot Menu (F8) option because W8.X and W10 are too retarded to live with without it.

This is like one if the first things I do after a clean OS install...

Code:

bcdedit /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy

bcdedit -set loadoptions DISABLE_INTEGRITY_CHECKS

bcdedit -set TESTSIGNING ON

bcdedit.exe /set nointegritychecks on

The last line of code eliminates me every having to select "Disable driver signature enforcement" from the F8 Legacy Menu. It keeps it disabled at all times.

I use My WCP Watermark Editor to remove the watermark from my desktop.

 

Because he wants DSE enabled. I think something with his job requires that he have that filth enabled.

 

Thanks for the clarification. It was my OCD kicking in as you've stated to, "...follow the instructions explicitly..."

When I saw requirements, Prema Mod, 980M etc...that was the first spark. (I knew that didn't apply, obviously ...) but then the next step said to boot into safe mode and disable driver signing and to cmd (Admin) -> Paste that script that is listed. Then reboot, F8, Disable Driver Signature Enforcement then to Install Drivers.

Then...the next step is where it mentions to Run DDU etc..., which I had figured this is the starting point...

Everything thereafter is pretty self explanatory, but that link for the INF files gives me this message:



This is where it was throwing me off... any ideas why that link isn't working for me?

Thanks for your help. It's greatly appreciated.

 

Yeah. The Redmond Morons will save the world. They prefer to have excess to everything in your machine, but they rather prefer to stop the owner from doing the same Have you seen the Win 10 thread? More of Big Brother tendency

@iunlock have you done all posting before you have access to T|I Firmvare?

 

Ah, yes... I know exactly what is wrong.

You'll need to either pay a very nominal one-time fee for Elite Membership to have instant access everyone's files or earn the right over time to download by participation in the Tech|Inferno community. Either way, definitely worth it. The @svl7 / @Johnksss@iBUYPOWER vBIOS files, @Prema vBIOS files, @j95 files, @Swick1981 Alienware BIOS mods, etc. will be yours. But, please don't share them with others that have not earned the right to enjoy them. I'd recommend just going the Elite Membership route. It will more than pay for itself immediately with the first download.

And, you're welcome. Glad to be of service.

 

For good measure, since a few of my software license authentication drivers needs that **** to be on.

Nailed it. I just hate the layers on top of layers of annoyances. They really need to have a enthusiast version or something of Windows without all the crap.

 

Roger that. I figured it had something to do with that Very well...

I completely agree and understand the honor code and I'm so grateful that it is there in order to protect the integrity of its value to both the software and the developer. Great stuff...

 

Please share your lottery experience by using the format below:

==========================copy/paste========================

6700K Silicon Lottery

What is your Max stable clocks?
4.6GHz @ -200mv Core / -200mv Cache

Delidded?
Yes

Thermal Paste:
Grizzly Conductonaut all around.

=========================bottom============================

 

Hyperthreading can decrease performance if apps are not optimized to use it? If yes, can we just disable it?

 

No, it really doesn't, unless it's certain games and you have hexacore or higher machines. Leaving it on is either a neutral or beneficial idea in terms of performance. Even if a program is not using it, the rest of your system will.

 

Just asking ^_^, want to start writing artifically enhancing performance guides for myself for when I get a new laptopy XD

 

• Manually adjust your power plan settings.
• Turn off HDD turning off.
• Set PCI/e link state power management savings to "off".
• Manually set page file to SSD and make it match your RAM size (or at least leave it around 16GB). Keep your CPU clocked up during work time.
• Get the best RAM you can find; this is somewhere around 3200MHz 16-18-18-43, or you can use the RAM that @Meaker@Sager has and get it to his settings or better; I believe he managed 3200MHz 15-17-17-38 or something (not a huge difference, but better is better).
• If not using Windows 10, set windows update to "never search for updates", but keep the service enabled. This prevents it from sucking up tons of CPU usage for 10-30 minutes randomly every day and every time you boot.
• Manually set checks for updates for programs that aren't super important to be updated to once a week; preferably early on a sunday morning. For example my google services won't update until after 8am on a sunday passes, at which point I get the alert that they wish to update.
• Kill hibernation, or at least kill hybrid/fast boot from in windows. It doesn't cleanly shut down the machine, and even with "shutdown" and "restart" actions being used, I've seen PCs with 45 days+ on "uptime" as far as task manager showed, with heavily degraded performance as a result.
• Reboot at least once every couple of days for optimum performance. Degradation after multiple days of usage is slight, but there. If performance in work and perusing the system's stored files/etc is what you desire, a daily reboot is a good idea.
• Don't run anything you don't need to as an automatic start with windows. There's a delayed start deal in place for HDDs so they don't get overloaded, and it'll be much faster if you boot and then manually click on what you want (pinning them to the taskbar or start menu with Start8/Start10 works just fine).
• If using an intel wifi card, get WLAN Optimizer and set it to run with "disable background scan" ticked and "streaming mode" ticked. This can be run with windows; it boots fast and has a startup impact of "none" according to task manager. It will prevent any potential (doesn't have to happen) ping spikes caused by the intel card searching for networks. Manual searches can be done anyway (simply by clicking on the wifi icon in Windows 8.1/10, even) and it won't require much harassing unlike the registry tweak routes.
• Manually set Windows Action Center to "show notifications only" and go in it and disable alerts about antiviruses or windows update etc so it does not constantly harass you.
• Disable Steam/Skype/etc flashing the window when you get a notification/message. The yellow flashing in the taskbar causes stutter in windowed mode games and might slightly harass other programs, so you don't want this. The popup in itself or the audio isn't any kind of issue. On the other hand, you may miss someone sending you a message while afk, but that's a small price to pay, methinks.
• Close battle.net client if you use it when you're done using it. It takes up an inordinate amount of CPU for no real reason quite often; far more than Origin and Steam do. Not a problem if you're focusing on one of Blizzard's games, but it might help if you're rendering something out and it's using most of your CPU. Steam and Origin really I've noticed to be fine if you want to keep them up (and I assume you'll need to keep steam up at some point when testing your game on it, I suppose).
• If you encounter any programs that REALLY dislike hyperthreads or something, a neat program is Process Lasso. It can somewhat permanently (I.E. as long as PL is running) lock applications to specified threads. No need to turn on/off Hyperthreading or disable cores etc in windows, as far as I know. This can also be done by right clicking the program under "details" in Task Manager, but the effect is lost the minute it's closed & re-opened, therefore process lasso running in the background is a pretty good semi-permanent solution (read: less headache). I know there's often a need to limit some programs to certain core counts, so there you go.

 

Very useful and healthy practices!

Thank you!

I'm also currently looking for more P775 related optimizations if there are any. Like specific XTU or Clevo Center settings that I have to make, or specific drivers or the place from where I get those drivers (I got a few but I'm not sure if they are the best drivers)

 

No problem.

Can't help you here, I don't have the machine D=. Feel free to ask people like @iunlock though who do.

 

Takes me to 4.8 or above to pull the 88W On my chip... Just it runs so ****ing hot comparatively!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Talking about temps.. I've ran a 4710hq at 99C for over a year with no problems or degradations in performance.

Why would I want / need lower temps on a 6700K ? I mean what is the purpose of lowering temps? The motherboard can't melt afaik, and if the CPU fries, I can always replace it since it's modular, no?

 

Most people prefer not replacing equipment if it's avoidable.

 

@D2 Ultima provided an excellent list. I can only think of a few things to add which are:

• I normally would always recommend a clean install of Windows, but they come pretty much clean installed and ready to go from the reseller so not much to worry there.
• In BIOS turn off (Advanced -> Inte Virtualization Technology) if you'renot using VM's. (That's just me being OCD.)
  
• Use the instructions from @Mr. Fox, Post #5214 and v372.54 NVIDIA drivers for your GPU.
  
• Don't use Windows HOME editions....use Pro.
  
• Malwarebytes.
• Bit Defender or Kaspersky for your Virus program, if you choose to use one.
  
• Get rid of Cortana.
• If you're using Windows 10 or 8 and want to clean up the Start menu, install the Classic Shell.
• Keep your Boot Drive (m.2 SSD) for your OS, Games, and Apps and use the other 2.5" drives as your slave drive. What I do is point all my pictures, music and movie folders to my slave drive so that it doesn't hog up my main boot drive.

That's all I can think of at the moment. I'll add more if something else comes to mind.

 

Heat is electronics worst enemy. Granted we can run the lights out of our CPU's and GPU's, but still if you can it's best to run things optimized as oppose to living on the edge with heat. The CPU's are pretty resilient, but it's worth under volting and finding that sweet spot to keep its neighbors happy as well. Everything likes it cooler than hot. Also, heat will degrade your overall performance.

 

I would expect your BGA is in fully throttle fest with constantly 99C degrees Not much headroom before thermal shutdown

 

I believe so as I was able to download the INF files for the driver ok. I had made a post then it approved me.

 

So, for overclocking ram, first increase the frequency of the ram until you reach a no boot solution. When it no longer reboots or resets to stock, you have a choice of increasing voltage, increasing timings to find the right one preventing the boot, or go to the last one that booted to tighten timings. Now, check with TM5 multiple times, although I've had it pass TM5 and fail on memtest86+. After I'm comfortable with it stable, I do a memtest over night with 3-4 runs. For tightening timings, focus on primary timings (the four you normally see marked for ram (tCL, tRCD, tRP, tRAS) and the command rate). Tighten one at a time while testing for stability in between. Another way is tighten until you receive a no boot, then loosen it until it passes without errors. Then go to the next timing. After the primary timings are set, you need to benchmark to check if it is running correctly and optimally. I use winsat to make sure I don't have a wild variance on each run. AIDA64 should be used, Geekbench, superpi 32M, and potentially winsat. You should check and compare the scores in these while loosening one or all of the primary timings by one to check for optimal score (there are times that the tightest timings can impact scores negatively rather than positively).

Now that you have those tightened, you repeat with secondary and tertiary timings, but focus on tCWL, tRFC, and tRTP. Tightening tREFI can actually lower performance, so be careful with tightening it (sometimes even loosening it can help). As shared by Meaker, when lowering the tRFC, there can be holes, so try jumping down a ways in number if you hit a wall of no boots. Worked for me to go lower, but not as low as I'd like. Benchmark with each secondary and tertiary timing changed to make sure scores are stable or increasing, not decreasing. Once you have great benchmark scores that are stable, you can either call it a day or learn how to use RWeverything or Thaiphoon Burner to rewrite the SPD to make it permanent. From here, make sure to verify in all this testing you did not corrupt your OS installation. All the crashes and errors corrupted essential system files. So backup before you start or pull all your current hard drives to throw on a fresh install to a spare drive and use that to test and tune. Don't forget after all of this to run memtest86+ overnight, at least four full runs. That should guarantee full stability in your overclock and give you better speeds.

Also, take note of johnksss earlier discussion on training the traces for the xmp profiles on the ram. To really optimize, you can find the lowest stable timings for each sodimm at each speed, then use the timings for the one that can tighten the least and maybe need traces trained to get a booting machine. Most of the time, just have the four in and do it at the same time and you'll get decently good results...

I used liquid electrical tape to seal my 980m in the same way!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Ah. Most of these aren't directly for performance. But yes, much of this is correct. I added my own thoughts here too.

 

Oh oops. That's right haha...what was I thinking

 

Why does it tease me by 0.1 fps? Lol...



::iunlock::

 

Cannot say if it throttles.

Acer blades push much less air than other fans but they do keep things cool. Acer GPU (860m) never reached 70C.

But the GPU reaches 98C in full load. No throttle detected though. I mean, it just runs at full speed full performance. It does not go under it's max frequency regardless of load.

Does not run at 4.0 GHz like a 6700k though .

Still this left an impression that thermals aren't so important.. I mean people do cook GPUs at 500C (when melting new ball joints) and the CPU is hot only in it's actual core, as if it would actually heat up the entire motherboard around it as much, the electrical tape that everyone advises would just melt. (had electrical tape melt way too easy, even in sunlight, nevermind 100C that CPU reaches.

I'm trying to best assess what to do since I haven't had a desktop since 2010 and back then I still ran an Pentium 4, which amazingly ran really good. It was also missing a pin from the CPU, no thermal compoound on the CPU at all, thermal compund dried on GPU and almost cleaned off, default cooler on CPU. Still ran like a boss with it's windows XP and 1 768GB of RAM

I can't disable vistuality thingy since I need VMs.



Some things that I don't understand from all those lists are:

- Why would we want anti viruses at all? Never felt like using any! Monitoring everything that happens in computer with extended logs seems cleaner.

- Why would we want to use windows 10 pro instead of home ? (I actually was able to make a better custm build over home than pro, and had Pro really work slower and less reliable than home)



Bios is fully locked at the moment, isn't it?

 

Max operating temperature and max temperature while off are quite different metrics.

 

What do you mean by that?

I was asking about max temperature while working with it..

 

You said people put the GPUs under several hundred degrees C when soldering it so operating it at high temperatures always will be fine. What a chip can take when powered and when unpowered are two different variables.

 

Depends on what you do and where you go on the web. Personally, I've not had a virus in approximately six years that I did not willingly download (back when I used to test bitdefender I used to show people how it could kill viruses mid-download and leave a broken file as a result, those were fun times). I just leave windows defender as a basic thing, however since that apparently slightly hinders performance I've been considering Avira or something. I've not done enough looking yet; lazy.

Group policy editing, ability to actually defer updates, etc. Pro is always better than home, and ultimate (if available) is always better than Pro. It's better to have the features should you need them than to find out you don't have them at all sometime later down the road!

And depends on who you get from. Some OEMs are partially unlocking some things.

 

You can use XTU to tweak settings regardless of the BIOS of course.

 

Got it there!

But for real, what are actual healthy temps for it?

That sounded like so much fun!

One thing that is shredding a HDD or a SSD is having one note active and win defender. No idea why, but they force a lot of data both ways on a HDD or SSD. Noticed this and de-activated them both afterwards.

Both hinder performance considerably..

 

Usually keeping things in the 80s is best.

 

Here are some new single 980M Fire Strike Extreme and Ultra benchmarks.

http://hwbot.org/submission/3326152_ | http://www.3dmark.com/fs/10292693



http://hwbot.org/submission/3326137_ | http://www.3dmark.com/fs/10292537

 

Oh yeah... might as well add this... 220W from the 980M in the FS Ultra run. I wonder how a BGA 1080 is going to perform compared to MXM 1080 if it gets anywhere even remotely close to this kind of power draw?

 

Here my friend. 4 benchmark tests for your 4710Hq(BGA ). Run Hwinfo in the background during the bench and don't forget to set Windows power plan to High performance. Your BGA shall hold 3.3 GHz for all four cores through every benchmarks. Anything below 3.3 GHz means throttling Theen post results with image(of bench and Hwinfo). Set up Hwinfo such as image. For more clarity

http://downloads.guru3d.com/CineBENCH-11.5-download-2475.html#download

http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/cinebench-15-download.html

http://www.mediafire.com/download/jbeswno4a4mdiy6/wPrime.exe




Edit @Mr. Fox What use all this processor power in the background? Package power is almost 65W . And the package power of 165w is pretty hefty in 3DMark Hotwell is an extreme power hog

 

I'll make sure to take some shots when I get a chance.

Might already take 6700K by that moment xD

By the way, are

17.000 - firestrike
31.000 - cloudgate 1.1
6500 - timespy

normal for an 1080 inside a P775 ?

 

Yes it is. I don't like that Haswell is a blast furnace, but I do like how much power it draws. Something about that just makes me feel really happy on the inside.

6700K is a better CPU in more ways than one, but I think it would be even better if we could get it to pull an extra 35W to 65W.

 

63-65W is more equally MASSIVELY OC'd 6820BGA in full bench. But with much higher temp than the low 43C maximum temperature displayed for your Hotwell in idle, HaHa


Edit. @Georgel Use the search in Futuremark http://www.3dmark.com/search