Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

With the settings @Mr. Fox gave me , http://i.imgur.com/VUpknhZ.jpg

 

Gotta tweaks and tune those to your systems liking. No settings are going to working perfectly system to system.

 

So @Mr. Fox if it crashed at 29 29 29 5 + should i got to 35 35 35 5+ ? or how that works?

 

LOL http://prntscr.com/bvyp1f

this is at 25 25 25 5 + at core leaving ring at stock
http://prntscr.com/bvyp1f

almost blew up on me.... what should be the next step @bloodhawk

 

I use a completely different way of settings things up. So better wait for Mr. Fox to reply. And at 4.7Ghz under sustained load without CLU, What else did you expect ?

 

well isnt it a trial an error thingy.... thats what I am doing .... Since you are here which way you use? i can trial and error that way to see if at least i can get at 4.6
I was stable at 4.4 with -90 core and ring but i want to try higher. where ud recommend a start?

 

my turbo power (mv) and max turbo short power (mv)changed to something other than 13000.

the clock is still going strong though.

 

Just change it back.

 

@Mr. Fox does CLU spread on copper shims or you have to sand them too?

 

Not easy to get perfectly flat shims. Specially the ones that will sit flat with your IHS and Heat Sink.

 

But still would CLU spread fine on them?

 

It they are flat and making even contact, then yes.

 

when i mean if clu spread is that if it can be applied without sanding the shims.. you see the cpu you cant add clu if you dont sand it a little bit with the sanding cloth clu brings. thats what I mean. If the copper shims needs to be sanded like the cpu or not

 

Regardless of that, you WILL need to sand the shim to make it perfectly flat. Very rarely will you get a shim that is flat and doesn't not have raised edges. And this sanding is not with the scrubber thing that comes with CLU.

Before going the shim way, try checking if the heat sink makes proper contact with your IHS, if it does then you dont even need a shim.

Also when you add a shim, you will need thicker thermal pads for the components next to the socket.

 

I would avoid using shims if possible.

 

yes for the VRM and the radiators...... still need to find out what freaking size i need to buy for the vrm and the radiators... since i believe these stock ones are messed up

 

1mm thick and 2mm . That is the stock thickness.

 

I would, too. That's a last resort stop-gap measure, especially on the die contact. If the heat sink fits right there is no reason to use a shim and if you use one that is too thick you can break something. When I used one on the P750ZM CPU heat sink it was to plug a hole and the hole was almost as thick as the 0.5mm shim.

What @bloodhawk did to replace GPU thermal pads is a different story. That was pretty slick.

 

so can i put a 1.5mm on the 1mm since they compress and since theres no 17w/mk with 2mm size?

 

No. Fujipoly ones don't compress that much and will cause a gap. Specially because the mounting pressure isn't high enough. I have already tried that .
And those high transfer ones are good for heat sinks that transfer heat super fast. On ours, you won't see any difference from the 7w/mK ones.

 

Im gonna buy this **** http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-BLADE-FE...ash=item236044084d:g:E8AAAOSwiCRUegc7&vxp=mtr and find once and for all if theres a freaking gap between the cpu and the darn heatsink.

 

How will you even fit that in there ?

 

it has different sizes, if one of them fits that means theres a gap of the amount that fit there,,,

BTW Fujipoly only has the 2mm in 6 w/mk ( both the 1mm and 2mm then should be 6 w/mk ) or can they be different?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ermal_Conductivity_60_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290

that should be the one right? for the 1mm

 

Umm, you are not getting it. How will you angle it under there to be able to move it around and see if it fits.
There is no way to get it perfectly flat and be able to find out the gap. Only way is to use a Pressure Sensitive film.

And yeah, those 6w/mK ones will be good enough. Both can be different.

 

Pressure paper is the best.

 

So 1 can be 6 w m/k and the other 17 w/mk for example?

@Meaker@Sager you mean something like this http://www.sensorprod.com/pressurex_micro.php

How would I know the space though? that will only show the pressure applied not if theres a gap in between :/

 

If the pattern of contact is even over the core you are good to go. Thermal pads can be done by eye usually.

 

I believe there must be a gap because I put CLU and after a few days that i couldnt get a stable OC i opened it and the CLU was burnt into the heatsink.. so air was going in :/

 

CLU will harden a little over time, that's partly why removing it is tricky and you get the scourer.

 

Its burnt in that wont come off

 

sure it will, just use 100% isopropanol and / or acid

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

Yes you scrape it off. Literally.

It's not easy stuff to work with and I don't recommend it for anyone but the most advanced users.

 

and since im disabled and not an "advanced" user i just bought a new one

 

THIS.

HEED THIS PLEASE.

One slip up and bye bye system. Ask @ajc9988 , he had a mishap recently. Advanced users like him know what to look for, new comers do not.

 

I was lucky it didn't kill my ram or board. Have more in the mail coming in Monday, so I'll try to either get glass panes cut for lapping to get perfection this weekend or buy a glass cutter (note, if you aren't careful, this will cut you if you don't purchase beveled glass! Glass is flatter than the rubber or plastic sanders which are commonly used for walls, etc. Which don't require perfect level. You want thick enough glass to work with that won't break and remember, don't apply lots of pressure, keep it light and loose while lapping, while maintain even contact, or you can wear the surface unevenly. It will be flat, but won't make even contact if you do it wrong! ).

Edit: P.S. sorry for the absence, family matters. ..

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

You making life for us miserable .............................. who cant fix a messed up heatsink... You smart donkeys

 

Point being, dont use CLU if you do not know or have the resources at hand to do it properly. One slip up and you will fry the system.

 

As Mr. Fox would say, bad QA on these heatsink is also to blame! FOXKAHN!!! (*said in William Shatner yell*, referring to foxconn)...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Doesnt scare me. Already messed up a MB when changing to the sillicon CPU by bending the chips and had to buy a new one... so.. CLU is here, waiting for the new heatsink, waiting for the thermal pads to arrive and then we go from there... 3 or 4 more days

 

Yeah one shouldn't be scared (just careful), when facing challenges. No improvement without trial and error!

 

now that my 6700k is delidded i was wondering if i should increase the offset? to say maybe -200? i was at -140mv at 4.2ghz.

 

better switch to static voltage and take it from there. much more precise tuning possible and lower stable voltages as well

besides, even though lowering temps does indeed give u the ability to lower ur stable voltage, what delidding mainly does is lower temps in order for you to be able tk reach higher clocks and voltages! so instead of undervolting further, rather go higher with the clocks ^^

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

@bloodhawk - did you have a chance to test the eGPU on Thunderbolt yet? I'd love for Alienware owners to see an example of what a real laptop acts like when connected to an eGPU. Having Thunderbolt work for this on the P870DM-G is important for broad acceptance. If the keyboard has to be removed or the chassis modded to re-purpose an internal port that takes away from other areas of functionality it will be less relevant for the masses. I'm hoping Clevo didn't really screw up the Thunderbolt port with borked firmware.

 

Not yet, i haven't been able to find a core for retail price online. But i do have my friend bringing his core over next week end on the 29th or 30th. Will keep you posted.
The firmware bork is partly because of Intel Licensing stuff as well.

 

@Phoenix you are bad

 

Hunh, what did he do.

 

So, I see... Intel pulled an NVIDIA on us, eh. Those crooked bass turds. Looking forward to your report.

Do you mean in a Michael Jackson bubblegum way or a ZZTop kind of way? Hopefully, the latter... it's nationwide and it goes all the way to the bone.

 

Intel was up to things way before Nvidia

 

Yup, monkey see, monkey do. Still ain't right, though. Evil slobs... all of 'em. Micro$loth, too.