*** Official Clevo P157SM-P150SM / Sager NP8250 Owner's Lounge ***

I've not heard of any particular trouble in 10 with hotkey. Though I would take a full system backup then try the upgrade and revert if it has issues.

 

I've been running Win 10 for awhile. Had some issue with the video drivers but that may have resolved itself with the latest version. Need to do some furthur testing.

With the latest version of 10 I am having issues with the wireless card (Killer). It connects but doesn't pull an ip. Am currently using the ether net port. Haven't had time to do more then try and manually load the drivers.

Haven't tried to use the hotkeys (have the laptop hooked up to external keyboard/monitor).

 

Have you tried setting a manual IP?

 

Not yet. Have't had a lot of time to play with it since the weekend.

I plan to do a full re-install when 10 go live anyway.

 

I plan to do the same myself

 

There's this funny little thing I just happened to discover on Win10, on my P150SM-A.

When I use the hotkey application (that hotkey v2.34.55, at least hovering on that app says so), when i click quiet mode (instead of power saving), the camera turns on. The funny thing is, the camera doesn't turn on with the hotkey (because it'll say things such as cannot be started), so i'm not sure if its because win10 drivers haven't been launched or not.

Secondly, intel xtreme tuning (at least via the provided clevo hotkey application) seems to always indicate that my CPU runs at 80++ degree celcius, (despite the fact that I sent it to the manufacturer/reseller for a dusting + repasting, around 6 months after purchase), so I think something about the temp drivers may be broken. Or its just my laptop, or its my manufacturer/reseller. Putting it in "full fan power mode" only made the CPU temperatures drop to 75c. Mind you these temperatures are at "IDLE".

I don't wanna take part my laptop, since i don't have the technical know how (i can assemble and disassemble a desktop pc just fine), but something tells me that it is probably a win10 driver related issue?

 

About your temps, maybe there is a bit of dust, 6 months is the recommanded time between dusting .
Try to launch a stability test with XTU and see how temperatures are evolving.

Also, did you had these temperatures prior to 10 ?
when idling, your fan behaviour feel different between windows version ? that would be weird.....

Elipsus

 

Try updating XTU and use another program like real temp to check the readings.

 

Funny, I just had my reseller repaste it two months ago. An hour ago prior to this post, I noticed a dust build up so I decided to open up my panel for the first time.

Here's how it looks like
http://imgur.com/a/ptnQb

the problem? I think something's missing. I did ask for an IC Diamond repaste (not sure which version they use though)

Can anyone help me to identify what is missing? I'm sure there must be something though :/

 

It all looks right to me. Can you maybe put a circle around your area of concern.

There is only one type of IC Diamond. When you order a tube yourself you'll see 7 and 24, that is just referring to the size off tube you'll get with 24 being the larger one. The paste inside is the same.

 

on the pic, on the GPU side, there is some spongy blue color substance. Its hardened, but its spongy, and isn't liquid. Is it supposed to be like that?

Secondly, I actually question IF they actually applied the thermal paste, or having a different one. But then i'm not skilled enough to dissamble the pipes (I really wanted to clean it), so I didn't.

Thirdly, I've noted that in these forums, a lot of other users have lots of "heat pads", but i've not seen any form of foam / material that resembles a heatpad in the picture for the laptop that I've opened. Do I have to buy them manually and stuff it in?

 

Yes the blue substance form thermal pads, they come in a variety of forms.

 

There isnt really a way to check if IC Diamond was used. You really just have to trust it was. Once you remove the heatsinks you'll have to reapply new thermal compound which negates the price you paid for it.

Some models come with thermal pads but not all. For the models that do it is usually in a little plastic bag and roughly 1"x2".

 

Aha. I see. Okay. Its just that when I opened up the laptop, I saw bits and pieces of the blue foam (which you have helped to identify as thermal pads), its just that its brittle and broke. That's why I was like "eh, is this supposed to happen".

Thanks again for everything. I've learnt A LOT from everyone here.

 

Happy to help. I've learned tons here too and keep on learning. Great place to stick around.

 

I'm concerned about your thermal pads, imo they should not be "dry", they seems to go in dust, but normally they are "sticky" and don't go in dust/little bits like that....can you confirm Hutsady ? it's really bothering me.....
apart from this, your computer seem fairly clean, but we can't see the radiator itself , can you remove the metal part above your fan in order to take photos of radiator ( 3-4 little white screws, no risk involved )
this way, cleaning is easier ( just remove dust blocked by the fins)
Elipsus

 

It could be a different type or material thermal pad used. The most commonly used are the "sticky" type. If those components are not overheating I would not replace them though. There could be a reason they use what they do for those parts.

 

There are many types of pad out there, softer ones are easier to use while harder ones tend to perform a bit better if applied right.

 

Xotic PC got me a p157sm w/ i7-4710mq, 980m 8gb via Amazon - had to pay extra fees for this but I had a large gift card to use. Thanks Hutsady for replying quickly and guiding me through this. Just the value of the MXM upgradeability I think is important if you are planning to keep your system for more than 3 years and also for resale value. My teen daughter will be gaming on it but I guess it is time to get rid of my upgraded T-420 which I have done every upgrade you can do (except going for i7-2960mx).

 

Happy to help out, glad we could get it set up for you and use that gift card up.

 

As fun as it is to keep old systems going once you get to that point the new system is going to blow past it.

 

Hi all, new here and looking for some advice. I have a Clevo p150sm about two years old.

A few weeks ago I noticed that my laptop wouldn't turn on while on the train on the way to work (no AC). Worrying as it was, by the time I got to work and plugged it in everything was fine. It was fine on the way home though, and for the next couple of weeks. What I did notice however was that my battery life was a fraction of what it used to be... barely 30 minutes on a charge. I did some reading and it turned out the battery was just old and knackered, so I ordered a new one and things improved. However, once or twice I came back to the laptop after doing some chores and while it was running when I left, it was now completely turned off - not suspended or hibernated - like it shut itself off for some reason.

Just this weekend however it's started refusing to turn on again while on the battery. When connected the the mains it works fine.. but dies as soon as I disconnect the cable. I've tried swapping the batteries back around to no avail, and HWInfo shows the new battery voltage is fine and the wear indicator at around 1%. It's still an intermittent fault - I took the back panel off to have a look for anything obvious and after reseating the battery a few times and closing it back up it started working again. A little later on that evening it shut itself off again, and after that the problem returned and I have not been able to replicate the fix since.

I'm interested to hear if anyone else has experienced a similar problem, or if anyone understands the mechanism by which the battery takes over when the ac power is removed and can help me to understand it. I'm going to try a further dissasembly and deeper clean/service in the hope I can find something obvious (I did hear a suspicious rattling the other day as if something was loose inside), but it would be good to have a guide as to which components to focus on.

My suspicion is that there is a loose contact of some kind caused by a knock or bump or something - hence the intermittent nature of the problem. It would also seem like the shut-down and the non-start issues are linked in some way although this could just be a red herring and could just be my power supply overheating (was a hot day).

Thanks in advance, Pete

 

I have a P150Sm about the same age as yours and haven experienced that problem. Battery life is about 90% of when I bought it however i barely use the laptop as a laptop. I usually use it as a workstation and hence removing the battery when its being used, since its not recommended to use it with the battery on and pluged if its fully charged. Sorry i couldnt be of any more help.

 

Does anyone know if the Windows 10 drivers for the P157SM-A would work for the P157SM?
http://www.sagernotebook.com/drivers.php?cat=589

 

Depends on your budget and what you want to do with your laptop. If you only want to play games on it, if you upgrade a really old laptop with a 980m, you can get a lot of use out of it.

 

I doubt you can put that in his old lenovo

 

hi!

Here are some pictures for you! Sorry, I didnt' notice the forums for so long. I've been busy for the past month or two!

I'm now very worried because the substance isn't sticky and its now porous. Some of it fell into my laptop, and when i picked it up it felt like eraser shavings that had crumbled!


I've inserted them as thumbnails. Sorry for the poor quality since forums only allowed a 2 MB upload.

 

Hum, im concerned, but as meaker ( who as "a little more" experience than me) said that it's ok, i think you should not worry too much !
It's not conductive, so it should not generate problem if there is some on the motherboard

Elipsus

 

Hmz, if they are literally crumbling like that you may want to replace them. They don't usually degrade that much.

 

I would love to SELF replace them, but I'm not sure myself if I can do it, LOL. sending to the reseller costs way too much.

 

It's not that difficult, just buy some of the same thickness (Meaker knows the needed thickness ) ,
this site sell them but only in France i think ( http://www.docmicro.com/) ,
You will need a philips head screwdriver , unscrew the Fan and the GPU heatsink.
cut the new thermal pad the same size as the old and replace them, put the "sticky" face of the pad in contact with the PCB components
Don't forget to change change the thermal paste too (taking special attention to rub away the old one) ,prolimatech PK3 is a must
Re assemble
Done !

Elipsus

 

Thanks, I will try to find the materials needed.


By the way, I ran into a very odd issue, which I've never really suspected, but now it horrifies me. For some reason(s), my P157SM-A refuses to power up external HDDs anymore. In the past it could, now it wouldn't. I can use a 2 USB port to a single USB port to power up the HDD, but in the past it only needed one. Now even with two, it can disconnect, so i'm thinking that the USB port is not delivering enough juice.

Is there a way to fix this? I really don't want to send it back to the retailer, its very messy and time consuming.


*add on:

- i tried my USB HDDs on another laptop, and they work fine.
- charging a phone over USB powered hub that normally takes 1-2 hours, now its 4 hours and still ain't full. (OnePlus One)
- USB thumbdrive doing a "dismounted and mounted" sound.


I tried downloading "Intel Driver Update Utility" and all I got was Intel HD graphics firmware upgrade and Intel PROSet/Wireless Software Update.


Both doesn't help.

Any advice?

 

What's a good cpu and gpu upgrade for a P157SM sporting an i7 4700mq and 780m?
Can i put a 970m/980m in it? It's currently running premamod as bios.

Thanks

 

I think you should be able to? I'm using a 980M myself, but that came as a factory spec.

 

Yours is the -A model, this one I'm talking about, ain't. Thanks for the input though. Waiting for some other answer, if possible.

 

Try driverscloud to be sure that it's not a driver problem
Check also in the bios option, try to activate the "usb charger"( I don't recall how it's named)

As you are already running premamod, I would suggest some overclock for the cpu, there is no viable option of cpu upgrade (unless you want to pay 600€ for 10% more performance)
For the gpu, the premamod + modified. inf files from prema should allow you to put a 980m without much problems

 

Since you're already running Prema BIOS, you should be just fine to upgrade your GPU to a 970/980m. When my friend did a bad flash of his 780m, we put one of my 970m into his laptop to flash his GPU back and it worked just fine.

 

It depends which Prema BIOS, you will want the latest one.

 

Hi. I went to driverscloud (seems to be a french site) but I managed to download an "agent", and it shows what stuffs i have on my laptop. However i'm not so sure what exactly needs to be done.



Now my SSD seems to be giving problems.

(i transferred my World of Warcraft Folder from my SSD (C to (E , and the damn computer restarted by itself every time i was halfway through.

And to make things worse, something like this happens.

Now I feel like as if a major meltdown happened.


(I just discovered, my Crucial M550 SSD is running at 72c-89c ! help!)

 

Hi again
Driverscloud is indeed a French site, but its also available in English (change language at the bottom of the site)
Via the "agent" it can explore your computer specs and tell you if some drivers need to be updated ("driver" tab)
My original idea was to be sure that you are not missing USB driver

About your temperatures, there is clearly a BIG problem, and I'm 99% sure that your problem in transferring file is from your temps.....

If you are lucky, a SSD full erase ( via HDD erase for example) will solve your problems, if not, your SSD is faulty and should be replaced

Pure assumption: an electrical problem cause your SSD to overcurrent, since it's supplied in 5v, like your USB ports, it cause that there is no power available from the 5v power IC, for usb device
Maybe try to run your computer without your SSD (and boot from a Linux liveCD), and see if it correct your USB problem, if it correct it, your SSD have a hardware problem.

Elispsus

 

By the way with thermal pads you can get sheets and just cut it to size, a pack of 0.5mm and 1mm pads will do pretty much any job (you can stack them if required.

 

Bought a rebranded Clevo P150sm-a last week at auction. Came with an i7 4710MQ, 16GB Ram, Nvidia gtx 970m 6GB and 1TB hdd. Put an msata drive in as my OS boot drive and it flys. This is my first gaming laptop and I'm loving it

 

Bought a rebranded Clevo P150sm-a last week at auction. Came with an i7 4710MQ, 16GB Ram, Nvidia gtx 970m 6GB and 1TB hdd. Put an msata drive in as my OS boot drive and it flys. This is my first gaming laptop and I'm loving it

 

Congrats!!! Sounds like an awesome setup! How big of an mSata did you go with?

 

I added a Crucial MX200 250GB. Put it in slot in main compartment and works a treat.

 

Very Nice!!! Now the fun part is really putting it through it's paces

 

Haha, agreed. Only stumbled across this forum whilst Google searching my laptops model number. Already it's given me the idea of flashing bios to overclock and undervolt cpu, flash graphics card bios to allow overclocking and buy a Delta 330w powersupply to cope with it all

 

HAHA it's a great place to learn it all and everyone is really helpful, looks like you've come to the right place!

 

Hello guys please help me.
I have a p157sm-a from CEG.
It came with us keyboard but the central led was defective (there was some kind of electrical dispersion at the led cable)

CEG accepted to rma it and I sent it asking to replace it with Italian layout.

I received yesterday the new one.
Led works correctly but keys are not recognized correctly. For example caps lock is escape, T is caps lock, other letters are recognized as numbers, Windows symbol is number 7, etcetera.

Keyboard fitted correctly

Same behaviour in bios, definitely NOT A OS problem.

Part number is different from my original one.
Original one was
P/N 6-80-P17S0-010-3R
MODEL V132150AK1 US layout

The one they sent me is

P/N 6-80-P17S0-100-3
MODEL V132150BK4 IT layout
It is physically fittable but electrically not compatible maybe?

Can someone advise me in anyway about compatibility?
Is it a different problem?
Thank you

 

If you are sure the keyboard cable is connected properly then it could just not be compatible, I assume windows is set to the Italian layout?