*** Official Clevo P65xRS(-G), P65xRP6(-G) / Sager NP8153(-S), NP8152(-S) Owner's Lounge ***

You could use Windows and Office Genuine ISO Verifier to check the ISO.

But if you prefer it from Microsoft...
How to Use Media Creation Tool to Download Any Windows 10 Version

 

Thank you. I may try it if nothing else helps. I do not want to re-install Windows now as I use it for my work.

 

You can take an image backup first. Does it also do it both dedicated and hybrid modes? Were you on the last firmware version?

 

Thank you for the suggestions.

Currently I do not have time to install new Windows (on a new Partition or by replacing my current Windows). And I am not sure that it will help - because with old driver everything works as expected. Issue happens only with new drivers.

I am running exclusively in dedicated mode.

I am using the firmware version that Sager provided me last year when I had some issues and had to RMA.
Not sure if it is the last one or not. What version is the latest?

Also I am discussing this issue with Nvidia Support. It took some time, but currently this issue was escalated to Tier 2. I will keep you updated on progress.

Attached you can see how the issue looks. With new drivers GPU usage is low (in combat sequences goes down to 20-30%), frame times are jumping a lot. With old driver GPU usage is always 98-99% (as it should). Frame times are stable.

 

What does hybrid mode do?

 

So I did a full wipe and reinstall of my system. Hardware is the same and I didn't change any BIOS settings. The odd thing is that I'm getting random re-starts without any BSOD or dump files. This seems to happen when I do something video related. More specifically it seems to happen when I launch a YouTube video from Chrome.

You guys have any thoughts? I'm wondering if there is some Nvidia setting I might have forgotten. I will play around with video mode too (I think I'm currently in Discrete).

 

Shut offs tend to be power related. Like a VRM tripping due to thermals. Any windows logs in event viewer?

 

Thank you @Meaker@Sager - I will check for that. I switched to hybrid mode and it looks like the intel video drivers needed an update - not sure that would make a difference though. I haven't seen this happen again, but I will get temperature monitoring going again.

 

Hey guys,

Do you know if a Prema Bios for the P651RP6 was ever created?

I contacted @Prema about a month ago to find out but he is likely busy.

 

Hi Guys. Some time ago I shared a problem with my screen. Unfortunately, it needed to be replaced.

My vendor here in Brazil did the job of screen replacement. But they were not completely honest with me. They exchanged the original LG screen for a BOE NV156FHM-AW1. The screen looks oversaturated, its too colorful (green is super green, red is super red like my eyes hurt looking to them).
Other thing I've noticed is the brightness change alones. Looks like the panel is going to shut down and them it brightens again. Not cool to look at.

Has anyone here knows a better screen replacement for this one? I willing to sent the link to my vendor so they can look after that one, since I've have already payed this sh#$% panel.

I apologize if I sounds rude here.

Thanks in advance

 

Did you have G-Sync?

 

No, my previous screen hasn´t G-Sync.

I contacted the vendor complaining abou the issues that I identified on the screen. They are willing to replace the panel for a 120hz one. I asked if they have more information regarding the panel, but they didn´t. What kind of vendor does not now what they are selling? Never mind. I requested the screen replacement once again. Let´s see what I will got with the new screen one.

I will update when I have news.

Best regards

 

That sucks, the information is printed on the back of the panel though.

 

Hey dear friends. Just an update here.

My laptop just came home again S2
The vendor replaced the panel without extra cost. Just checked the panel with AIDA64. The new panel is a CMN N156HHE-GA1
Well, it's not a LG, but, at least, i can't see any change of color or refreshing stripes. It's a 120hz panel.
Now, I am wondering. This 120hz panel drain my battery very fast. Before, with the original one, I have used to got around 5 hours on battery doing work like navigating 10+ chrome tabs, PDFs, office package (with undervolting). Now, I can barely reach 3 hours with this new panel. Is there a way to "force" a 60hz refresh rate on this monitor?? I tried to use the windows native display settings, but there ir only one frequency allowed, the 120hz.

Can someone indicate a forum or something that I can go and learn how to do an "underrefresh rating?

Thanks in advance

 

Check the Intel driver panel or Nvidia panel.

 

I tried both, but there is only 120hz option, even after updating drivers.

I found something related to Custom Resolution Utility (CRU). Have anyone tried or known something about?

It looks like a utility that allows a lot of customization for screens (resolution, scaling, frequency...). I will read a little bit more before trying something.

 

Yes that can be used to create another step. Going down in refresh rate is pretty safe.

 

Is there still anybody in the forum? What are your idle temperatures?

 

How idle? What are your temps?

Idle is very tricky to measure comparitively.

 

Well I mean, just in windows, nothing specially, even chrome or something else is closed..

The problem is, I am cleaning the fans and changing the thermal paste like every year (with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut). A week ago, I did the cleaning as usual, but this time, temperatures increased. I made everything as I did before. After that I got ~45°C CPU idle, and ~50°C GPU as idle (I am using only GTX 1070, iGPU is disabled). I suspected myself and disasembled the cooler again to check the thermal paste. It was looking good (not much nor less, contact points traces were as it should be), but because I openened, I repasted it. Now even worse, GPU is ~60°C, CPU is ~48-50°C. Under load (like RDR2, or kombustor stress test), GPU reachs ~94°C and clock frequencies getting unstable.

If I turn on the full fan speed (fn+1), it is reducing just 3-5°C in idle. Yesterday, I figured out that if I take off the back cover, all temperatures are going well again. Without the cover but laptop is on the table (so no special airflow), idle GPU ~46°C, CPU ~40°C which looks really fine but as I said without cover. In game, never reached 75°C and stress test with kombustor max 81°C (15 min) in this condition and clocks were stable. If I put back the cover, idle temps jump through to 55-60°C immediately and with full load GPU is reaching 95-96°C. I am just trying to find the root cause, otherwise, I am only able to use the laptop only without the cover in order to get it cool. By the way, the cover is undamaged. Never bended, cracked and etc... nothing, it is still like new. I am always using the laptop on the table. nothing can cause to break or damage.

I remember that, last summer with 30-35°C ambient temperature, PC was working really cool. I made a comparison with my cousin's MSI and my PC's temperatures were 40°C CPU, 42°C GPU at August where he had 60°C.

I opened the pc just to write this message, and here is the results:

 

Those are definitely high (for idle/low load temps) - my P650HS-G tends to do high 30s (38-39*C) doing casual browsing in Chrome, with the discrete GPU on (as opposed to using Optimus) and no undervolting, with a paste job that's ~14 months old at this point. With the "known good" -140mV undervolt idle/low load temps dip to mid 30s with an ambient temp of ~25*C



@Meaker@Sager
A bit of a weird question - but has anyone complained about screen artefacting/flickering with Optimus enabled with newer Intel drivers than 25.20.100.6373 (from December '18) and the 60Hz LG046F IPS panel?

 

Not that I've heard of.

 

Delightful - it'd appear that I've stumbled upon an yet another "Uhh, this shouldn't be possible" situation XD At least this time around it's not in a HPC cluster at work requiring a 2 week long audit and debugging cycle, nor a certain popular open source data sync solution deciding to corrupt/delete files at random, because I've deleted a file with the same name once upon a time ...Plus I've got spare parts (and it's a minor enough issue that one can easily live with to not even bother trying more drastic solutions).
By the way, the weird part is that the issue is only really present in Windows (regardless of version or install state) and I'm yet to experience it in Linux, which would suggest that it's not from the hardware side of things

 

Finally worked out what I think is the culprit of my app crashes and weirdness over the past year. Thought it was the ram but everytime I've memtested it it looked fine. Ran "video memory stress test" and I get errors in a couple of mins.

Hoping someone can run this app and test there gpu for 5mins for confirmation?

My laptop is the P670RS-G

 

Windows does use more hardware acceleration that will be using the system ram. Is the ram stock?

 

Nope, the stock RAM's long gone at this point (because of an oversight I ordered my bugger with 12 gigs o' 2133), but I've done memtest and I swapped in another "known good" set just in case and this behaviour persists, lol. At this point I've assumed that either "I'm just lucky and I got a minor failure that doesn't actually affect usage in the slightest" or that an UEFI upgrade package (to 1.05.11TS1) I did awhile back is the culprit and I only just noticed the change after deciding to swap a drive and do a clean install

 

Maybe, does sound very odd.

 

Well I did the undervolting around -150mV already like a year ago. I suspected the thermal pads caused the issue and I replaced the blue ones with thinner ones (0.5mm gelid ultimate). Now idles are still around 40-45 for CPU and 50 for GPU but the max load reduced greatly like max 75-78 for both GPU and CPU. Something is really strange with them but I have no time to investigate further at the moment. I have doubts that the thinner pads are touching the GPU memories well but so far it worked well under loads. I guess i need to repace all thermal pads with original ones thickness or should replace the whole cooling unit.

 

You can stack the thermal pads to get the required thickness. Which reminds me, I need to order some Gelid Ultimate soon....

 

As above, you can stack if needed.

 

hey guys

I have a bizarre issue with my Sager NP8153-S (Clevo P650RS-G) laptop. By mistake, I installed a Samsung external display driver on my laptop which totally messed my G-SYNC enabled laptop display. I believe my display model is LP156WF6 but after installing that nasty Samsung driver my display is detected as Digital flat panel(1024x768 60Hz) and I only have a black screen while I run the laptop in Hybrid mode. Intel HD graphics run into problems in this mode and I have to use an external HDMI display to have a screen to use the laptop(using Nvidia 1070). If I put the laptop in Discrete mode, Windows display hangs after a few seconds when I log in and G-SYNC feature of the display is not detected in Nvidia control panel. Nvidia 1070 seems to be totally messed up in this mode. Please help me. I want to restore the monitor to its original full functionality. I wonder how these settings were totally wiped by that Samsung Monitor driver. I have attached some pictures below. Please advise...

 

Have you tried to either roll back the changes (via System Restore) or by just deleting the flat panel driver (with the "remove driver" option checked?)?

 

My laptop was functioning normally until I installed a Samsung display driver on my laptop mistakenly. I was booting to a black screen on Intel GPU (Hybrid mode) due to corrupted display EDID. Laptop monitor changed from LP156WF6 to non-pnp 1024x768. I used the laptop for 7 days by attaching a Samsung display to it by HDMI port.Then, I tried to boot ubuntu 18.04 on the laptop by USB drive but it showed a message about EDID being empty. After I restarted the laptop, it does not even boot anymore. Monitor turns on but no display, even the SAGER splash screen when computer turns on is gone.I can do a Cmos reset by pressing FN+ D during power-on but it does not help. I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes but nothing changed. I am totally out of hope now. I used to at least be able to use the laptop with an external display but now nothing works. I am not sure what is really wrong with it now....Is there anything i could do to fix it? The laptop is out of warranty so Sager is not helping..I am writing this on a Raspberry Pi device I had at home....Please help me if you can...I will pay for your help.....Please

 

Yes I did all that but unfortunately the EDID on the laptop display was corrupted...

 

Remove the panel and run on external for now?

 

Anyone have any experience tweaking the BIOS with Prema? I’ve never had Prema BIOS and have never messed with the settings. Could use a guide or video if anyone knows of one.

I was trying to undervolt the CPU to keep it cooler and couldn’t find the setting for it. Any help is appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Just use Throttlestop in Windows - that way if you get too aggressive with the undervolt, you can still boot back up to a working system without having to deal with a BIOS reset. The other upside for going that route is that you can fine tune the undervolt (via profiles that get auto-loaded) for battery and mains power.. or even gaming vs normal usage (ie I've noticed that a couple of games may have issues with my normal undervolt, but are fine with a -115mV one). Here's a handy guide on how to get things set up and then have them autostart with Windows.

 

Hey All! Well, I'm on year 5 of this laptop which has not at all let me down! However, I am starting to get some "sticky keys" - that is keys that don't respond to the first press but I need to hammer a bit on to get them to work (the "d" key is definitely problem) and some of the plastic key caps have worn off.

Anyone have a pointer on how to enact repairs? I checked out "laptopkey.com" but I would not use them without a strong recommendation and I don't even know if the keys really need to be replaced or just carefully cleaned. Any pointers would be great!

 

On the cleaning front - you can carefully remove the caps and wipe them and the mechanism with a bit of isopropyl alcohol to remove the grime to help with the key travel. The problem is that at the best of times, the mechanism is a tad hard to remove and relatively brittle (which should only get worse after 5 years of wear and tear) so be prepared for breakage. The alternative is to go my route and just get a replacement keyboard module if you can find it for a decent price(30 quid from my Clevo reseller back in late '19) when an "unfortunate" combination of Dave Chappelle's comedy and some coffee caused my entire upper right corner of the keyboard (the top 3 rows of the numpad) to stick. Just be careful if you go that route, because there are several interchangeable keycap and backlight types, so double check before ordering (and that's excluding the obvious differing layouts)

 

At that sort of price a replacement makes more sense.

 

Thanks for the feedbacks. I have checked further in a lot details and figured out 0.5mm is definetely too less. I can easily see behind the GPU Mems. So I changed the GPU Mem pads with 1mm Gelid and changed the Nvidia power settings to adaptive, Now the idle stays 35-42°C for both CPU and GPU and the under load it is around 85-86°C max. This problem solved, thanks to all for your help.

I also have some key problems on my keyboard. Some keys are not working properly, I have to click them several times (like b, numpad 8 or ? and some of them). They are not in the same array, just randomly happening. I cleaned te keyboard but doesn't help. My keyboard's P/N 6-80-P6500-071-1 (white backlight). If I want to replace it, can I replace it with RGB backlight model? I have checked that motherboard has the RGB socket for the keyboard but not sure it is functional or not. My PC is 6700HQ and GTX1070 (Model P651RS-G)

 

Same question, I broke the Led power lid when I changed Ram, on white backlighted keyboard (P671RP6-G). There’s only RGB available kb online. I’m afraid white or RGB difference could be the meaning of the third number ( P670 vs P671). Is it possible?

 

There were different chassis designs which may have been the difference between them.