*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

When you test the battery run time with battery eater classic. Should I have the screen to 100% or 50%?

 

My results of 41.92 & 106 for the 4K is pretty good but also down on review scores.

My SSD is my boot device so I'd expect any benchmark run to be disturbed by Windows reading/writing to the device at the same time. Also I didn't think to run disk benchmarks before installing a load of stuff. (The benchmark numbers were run just a few minutes ago so my C drive is quite some distance from a 'clean' state that the reviewers always use).

Samsung SM951 512GB M.2 PCIe X4 by Siluri posted Mar 26, 2015 at 11:43 AM

 

no difference whatsoever in build quality, the chassis is identical, just that the backplate is either metal (SE) or plastic (SG)

check and see if your dGPU is switched on. also check with batterybar or HWInfo what the wear on your battery is. third thing to try is to recalibrate your battery, meaning charge it to 100%, discharge it completely to 0% without pause and then charge it again to 100% without any break in between.

why exactly would u want to disable the LED? i find it very useful as an additional troubleshooting tool if ur display decides not to give u any output...

dont forget that SSD performance is REALLY dependant on CPU performance. the test rigs in SSD reviews usually have overclocked desktop CPUs with all powersaver settings disabled (such as intel speedstep, C-states, etc). what ive also noticed is that putting a little bit of load onto the CPU while running the benchmark tests (around 9-15% load) results in far higher numbers, since the CPU is kept from doing any powersaving voodoo whatsoever

 

@jaybee83

I reinstalled my IRST driver and am now getting better results :



Still short of the 132MB/s reviewers are getting but much better than before.

Are you sure CPU power is affecting benches like CDM wich solely measure SSD speed?

 

Because I find it distractingly bright when there are smaller front LEDs for that purpose.

 

I noticed that the 1080p IPS screen that comes with this laptop is one of the following models (depending on the reseller)
LG LP156WF4-SPB1 (laptopplus)
AUO B156HAN01.2 (xmg,ceg,bto)

Does anyone have any experience with both panels and would mind to share his/her experience?
From what I'm reading, the AUO seems to be the better option for contrast and black value, but the brightness on the LG is apparently better.

 

good job make sure to always have the latest IRST driver installed. version 14 just hit station-drivers.com

and yes, based on reviews and on personal experience i can say without a doubt that CPU performance impacts SSD performance a lot!

check this link for more info: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...o-vs-840-evo-msata.759759/page-3#post-9776465

and that was with a 2960XM CPU overclocked to 4.7 Ghz!

 

Good to know, I'm about to order from Eurocom as well since they come with the AOU 1080P screens.
How is the stock AOU screen? ( if that's what you have ).
I hear it's much better than the stock LG screen most other resellers offer?
Are you sure they use ICD paste?
I asked about it and the told me to add ICD paste it would cost extra.

 

I thought that there is no point in "defragging" SSDs and that it can in fact be counter-productive?

This shouldn't have impacted your test results, though

 

'Optimise' when ran on an SSD does a TRIM, and when done on a HDD it does a defrag IE it knows what type of storage its working on.

 

Oh, I didn't know that, I better turn the schedule for this back on for my SSD, then!

 

@Oxford_Guy

Siluri is right. Before doing "defrag" on the SSD write speeds where only 270 for sequential....after that they jumped to the normal 480

 

i can recommend thessdreview.com for a great win8 guide on how to optimize ssd performance

also recently caught my attention: http://www.tweaktown.com/guides/680...ssd-performance-installation-guide/index.html

this guide also includes the cpu optimizations for the ssd performance boost

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Whats going on guys! I just purchased the Sager NP8651 from powernotebooks.com. I highly recommend them. Hutsady K. from Xoticpc also answered some questions...another great company! I can't wait to get the laptop in and start using it

 

That's a nasty looking cracked screen! ;-)

 

Yes. John Shore confirmed it's ICD 7 by default rather than ICD 24 as others posted. It's still very nice. My CPU with -75mV UV hovers around 78C under XTU stress test and GPU around 60C after +135mH OC on core and +495mH OC on VRAM. Ambient temp is around 24C.

The AOU screen is very nice. Many others have raved about it. Very minimal light bleed. Great colors.

Eurocom ships from NY if you order it in the US. No import tax to worry about. I find they have the lowest price of any Clevo/Sager resellers around.

Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Okay, I received my P650SG from Prostar but the computer doesn't seem to turn on. I ordered it without an OS since my school gives free copies of Windows. After pressing the power button, the laptop doesn't show anything. No POST, no BIOS, just a black screen. I really don't want to have to return/RMA this as it took about two weeks to get here. I have tried unplugging the battery then holding the power button for a minute in hopes that this will hard reset the system. I have removed the RAM and HDD and replaced those with a different RAM stick and SDD but this still doesn't solve the problem. Maybe I have a faulty motherboard?

 

FYI, ICD 7 and ICD 24 are actually the same thing. The only difference is the size of the tube it comes in - ICD 7 comes in a 7 gram tube, and ICD 24 comes in a, you guessed it, 24 gram tube. For DIY work, 7 is fine for one or two computers. The only reason to get 24 is if you are repasting a *lot* of computers.

 

ICD7 and ICD24 are the same compound, just different packaging sizes

edit: ah got ninja´d

 

Has anyone tried using G-sync on an external monitor? I have a G-sync working on a my desktop with a G-sync capable monitor with a built in g-sync module. It would certainly be a nice to have feature to be able to use G-sync on the monitor with my future laptop, especially since a 970m or 980m would be better than my current desktop card. I've searched the forums and haven't been able to find anything concrete on external monitors. I know there are some potential issues with Optimus, but I don't know if this applies to external output.

 

I got a little bit more info on Clevo's HotKey Program. STAY AWAY FROM IT!! It is really JUNK.

We know it blocks at either 1.45 or 1.6 ghz, but I found something else to give it credit for.
Sometimes it will make the "System" process in Win8.1 go nuts when using battery.

I did some digging (Process Explorer + Debugging Tools for Win) and found that System is having a crazy load on the ACPI.sys thread when on battery.
Now the funny thing is I only noticed because I was using ThrottleStop to remove the 1.45 ghz limit, BUT this made it evident that something fishy was going on, because it showed a full 3.5 ghz load on the cpu while on battery.

Couldn't find any answers online, just some macbook and they said should be fixed by sleeping and wake and it did!
Then after about 45 seconds it came back!!

So I thought what might it be other than Clevo's wonderful software?

Uninstalled HotKey and the problem went away.
Pro-tip: Do not use HotKey if you plan on using the battery!
It will block the CPU and also load it heavily... How ironic huh?

 

@-Jinx- disable C-states if you want same 4K writes as you see in reviews

 

does the SE/SG even have that option? aside from using throttlestop i mean...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Doesn't matter, can be done in Windows Registry: The ThrottleStop Guide

 

Hey guys,
Don't know if this is the correct place for this but was wondering if you could tell me your opinion on this build:

Sager NP8652 (Clevo P650SG)
- FREE - The Witcher 3: Wild Hunt w/ purchase of GeForce GTX 970M or above Notebook [must be requested during checkout / limited supply]
- FREE!!! – U.S. UPS GROUND SHIPPING (Use Coupon Code "FREESHIP" in Checkout) [U.S. Lower 48 ONLY / Restrictions Apply]
- 15.6" 4K QFHD (16:9) Matte-Type Screen (3840x2160) (Sharp Brand / 60Hz) (SKU - S4K004)
- 30 Day No Dead Pixel Warranty (On any Sager Screen)
- NO Professional Monitor Color Calibration
- 4th Generation Intel® Haswell Core™ i7-4720HQ (2.6GHz - 3.6GHz, 6MB Intel® Smart Cache)
- - IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU
- NVIDIA® GeForce™ GTX 980M (4.0GB) GDDR5 PCI-Express DX11 (Maxwell) w/ Optimus™ Technology
- No Video Adapter
- No External Mobile Display
- 8GB DDR3 1600MHz [1x8GB] Dual Channel Memory (SKU - RAM02S)
- Remove All Branding
- Standard Laptop Finish
- No Laptop Laser-Sketch™
- No Custom Laptop Painting
- No Custom Laptop Painting
- Non-RAID Storage
- mSATA Slot 1 Preconfigured as an OS Drive ( Operating System – Drive C: ) / mSATA Slot 2 ( Storage Drive )
- No M.2 mSATA Drive
- No M.2 mSATA Drive
- 1TB 7200RPM [SATA II - 3GB/s] (SKU - HDDYY1)
- None Standard --
- HDD Raid Settings - OFF
- No Back Up Hard Drive
- NO External USB Optical Drive
- Bluetooth Included *With select wireless cards only* (See “Wireless Network” Section Below)
- Sager - Intel® Dual Band AC 7265 [M.2 Chip] 802.11 A/AC/B/G/N 2.4/5.0GHz + Bluetooth™ 4.0 (SKU - WIFIX1)
- No Network Accessory
- Internal 6-in-1 Card Reader
- Built in 2.0 Megapixel Camera
- No TV Tuner
- Sound Blaster Compatible 3D Audio - Included
- No Carrying Case
- Smart Li-ion Battery (4-Cell)
- No Car Adapter
- No Spare AC Adapter
- No Dock/Hub/Adapter
- Integrated Fingerprint Reader
- No Headset
- No External Keyboard
- No External Mouse
- No Notebook Cooler
- No Operating System Redline Boost
- No Operating System [Drivers & Utility Software Only (Windows 7 & 8.1)]
- None
- No Antivirus Essentials Software Bundle
- No Back Up Software
- No Unlimited GB Cloud Backup
- - No Microsoft OFFICE Software
- No Software Bundle
- No Global Anti-Theft Protection (Options below require an operating system)
- Sager 2 Year Parts & LIFETIME Ltd Labor Warranty w/ Lifetime 24/7 DOMESTIC Customer Support (SKU - WTY098)
- * 24/7 LIFETIME U.S. based technical support
* Extreme QA testing by dedicated technicians
* 24-72 Hour stress testing and benchmarking to ensure top performance and stability
- Standard Production Time
- No Outside of US Shipping Coverage
- No thanks, standard double boxed packaging is okay with my order
- No XOTIC PC Gear
- No XOTIC PC / LOOT CRATE
$2,008.01

Sub-Total: $2,008.01
I highlighted the options different from the default ones.

Used for work on the go, including heavy stats, computing, paper revising and writing, some gaming. Was also wondering if it works with external GSync monitors like other people asked earlier. Am i missing something? I know these screens have scaling problems now, but is it a good investment for the next 3 years when I assume those problems will be all solved? Would appreciate any opinion .

 

Hey Peeps,

Is it normal for my laptop to stay at a steady 3.4 Ghz when running intensive games? I thought it should be able to go up to 3.6ghz if needed?

The reason I ask is I'm playing Blizzard's Heroes of the Storm (currently in beta, based on SC2 engine) and it runs like a champ on my desktop (i7 4.0ghz, GeForce GTX 770) where I'm getting 80+ fps.

On the 8652 (980m, i7, 2.4-3.6Ghz) I can keep a decently solid 59/60 FPS (due to v-sync and refresh rate), but it regularly dips into the 40-55fps range, sometimes even lower.

I ran Firestrike on both machines and I get ~7800 on my desktop and ~8900 on the laptop, so in benchmarks it seems like the laptop is far more powerful. Or are laptops inherently less performant in some way that a benchmark just can't capture?

My best guess is that Firestrike is GPU intensive and Heroes of the Storm/SC2 is more CPU intensive. If that's true, I'm wondering why my laptop stays in the 3.4 range and never goes to 3.6.

Oh, and did anyone (Lone?) figure out if having a larger power brick (+180W) give the computer enough power to never hit any current limit?

 

That's pretty much the same build I have.

You'll get divided opinion on the merits of a 4K panel (of any sort) so be absolutely sure in your own mind it's worth the money. I have the Sharp 4K Matte and it suits me, but it wouldn't suit many.

I assume you'll add in your own SSD afterwards and more memory. 8GB doesn't go very far (16GB is a good number for the vast majority I'd suggest) and getting 1x8GB (single stick so you'll suffer on the memory bandwidth) is a definite mistake.

On my build (mySN/Schenker) they offered 1x8GB or 2x4GB free/inclusive. I added 2x8GB afterwards (as well as SSD) to bring the total up to 24GB. So tweak your build to 2x4GB if you can (or perhaps you intend to get an additional 1x8GB straight away of the same make/model?).

 

It's better to get 1x8GB so you can add another 8GB DIMM (or two or three) yourself. Anyway outside of benchmarking/e-peen single channel memory doesn't make much difference in real-world usage.

 

It makes several FPS difference on many leading titles too.

The take-away is regardless of the total amount of memory, just ensure it's dual channel!

 

Like what, Battlefield 4?

 

A quick bit of googlefu brings up a hell of a lot of noise, but amongst those some useful stuff EG:

• Batman Origins...
• BF4... https://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf4/en/forum/threadview/2955065670133117270/

Also posts/articles about boosts to: WinRAR/Compression, RIPing Audio/Video, Photoshop etc.

There is virtually no price difference between 1x8GB & 2x4GB. Also little difference in costs between 1600MHz and 1866MHz.

Edit: Bah, the forums automatically convert the Batman Origins Youtube link to embedded video. Go to the Youtube video description for written FPS numbers vs configurations.

 

I agree! Although I get it to hover around 80 degree celsius under

Also I don't know why it should throttle it to 1.6 ghz for all power modes. Its reasonable for power saver mode, but for both balance and high performance?

 

wow thanks for the reply! Yes, I was planning on getting another 1x8 afterwards. I have to stay below $2k due to funding restrictions, so couldn't add it right away.

Can I pm you about the screen? I wanted a future proof laptop (3 yrs) with a matte screen, so 4k Matte Sharp was sorta an obvious choice. But I have never worked with 3-4k screens and the resulting problems.

 

Guys, i have a P650SE and i usually overclock to get that extra edge on games, i think i got the sweet spot on my gtx 970m. Should i change back the graphic card to the default values after playing more demanding games? Or does it cause any problem later on changing values?

 

You should be fine keeping the overclock values as long as you are stable and temps are right. GPU's have more headroom then the stock clocks and it doenst hurt them as long as done correctly.

 

So long as the temperatures are within normal limits and the extra fan noise does not bother you then fair enough.

 

The GPU temperature never goes above 65º and the fans are on auto, i don't even notice them. Tried with shadows of mordor and ACU and both games behaved well. I noticed most people here reached +500 on memory clock, but after 450 on mine i get a BSOD. Does it damage my gpu when this bsod happens? After i got the bsod i went back to 400 afraid i could damage something.

 

Probably no problem unless something drastically wrong.

 

All chips overclock differently. Overclocking (unless undervolting at the same time or drastically improving the cooling) always increases the wear on a chip, exactly how much depends on various factors.

A BSOD is a software issue (caused by a transistor tripping over itself in this case) which does not cause damage to hardware itself. It may corrupt data in flight at the time though.

 

Did the transistor's shoelaces become untied, or is it just a clutz?

 

I just asked for mine with the minimum 4Gb single module,then removed that and replaced it with 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance 2133Mhz CL11 memory, which was cheaper to buy elsewhere than then the vendor's 2x8Gb 1866Mhz options. Memory speed apparently doesn't make all that much difference in the real world, but as I only intend to install memory once, thought I might at least go for some decent RAM. You need the Prema Mod bios (which I've flasged to) to run the memory at it's rated 2133Mhz speed, though, otherwise it only runs at 1866Mhz.

 

@octiceps
@jaybee83

Thanks for the tips on SSD optimisation guys! I was really not aware that CPU is so important in SSD performance.

I won't disable C-states though...I plan to use the laptop on battery alot so it's not worth it...if it was a desktop it would be a different matter.

I just thought that I was doing something wrong

P.S. does anyone have any info on how much power "SATA Link State Power Management" actually saves?

I read that alot of SSD's and HDD's have trouble with this option and am thinking of disabling it if it's not a huge power saver.

 

For SSDs just leave it on max performance. It'll still only be stressed if you need it to. If you have HDDs in there though... different story.

Also, yes, data transfer and read/write *IS* bottlenecked by the CPU and RAM. Wanna heat up your CPU? Go ask Microsoft Security Essentials (or windows 8's Windows Defender) to do a full scan on a SSD. When you hit 40%+ CPU load from a virus scan, I'll laugh at how blown your mind is. =D.

Anyway, glad you got whatever problem you had sorted out... but this is why I keep saying that we're bottlenecked LONG before we saturate SATA 3 speeds by the CPU and RAM in our machines, which is why these exceedingly hot, throttle-prone *cough* samsung mainly *cough* M.2 drives are a waste of technological advancement. If they were optional in board type (P770ZM = mSATA, P771ZM = M.2, etc) then they'd be good, but everyone has moved onto M.2 for the most part and the drive platform currently sucks.

 

I have a 500gb ssd crucial mx200 ssd and a 2Tb Samsung HDD so I guess I'll leave it enabled in Intel Rapid Storage then

On a different note my samsung HDD is making some "chirping" sounds.

Why can't anyone just make drive that doesn't make alarming weird sounds.

I'm coming from a 4 year old WD which continuously parked it's head even after supposedly disabling this feature to a hitachi drive wich did the same clicking sound for wich i replaced it with this samsung/seagate drive wich now is chirping.....

Talk about annoying.

It's not the actual sound that is worrying me as much as the nagging feeling that the rwason for the sound will sometime in the fiture kill my drive...

 

Right now I have a 128gb liteonit PCI-E SSD in the machine. Can i add another m2 SSD and make a RAID from these two?

 

What? I thought the bottom panel is made from metal too?!

 

P65xSG is plastic, P65xSE is metal. No idea about P65xSA.

 

Of course.

 

Can anyone advise if they're able to get a single core to hit the 3.6ghz mark? For some reason I'm only able to get to 3.4ghz on a single core when gaming. Any idea why I can't get to 3.6?

 

What games? It won't be able to hold 3.6 GHz if any of the other cores are loaded even a little bit.