*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

Pretty sure I didn't get one of them in my bag of stuff that came with my P651SE from XMG, just the vRAM pads...

 

When you order a P505 with M.2 we always install a thermal pad by default for this purpose

 

Faniskogen - The default multipliers for the 4710HQ are.

1 core active - 35
2 cores active - 34
3 cores active - 33
4 cores active - 33

With software you can overclock those values by +2 and then you get.

1 core active - 37
2 cores active - 36
3 cores active - 35
4 cores active - 35

Those are the maximum values and can only be obtained when your CPU is operating within temperature, power and current limits. If you go over any of these limits, the CPU will throttle as much as it needs to so that it does not exceed those limits. That is how Intel designed these CPUs. The screenshots show that the 4710HQ is throttling during the XTU Benchmark test because it is hitting the current limit.

On a less demanding test like the ThrottleStop - TS Bench test, my 4700MQ can maintain the full 34.00 multiplier for the entire 1024M test. An under volt of about -40 mV lets it run indefinitely just a hair under the 47 Watt TDP limit. I was helping a user recently with his 4710HQ and during the same test, he was overclocked but his multiplier was being throttled back to 29.00 during the TS Bench test. His ThrottleStop TPL window looked identical to the specs that my CPU was using. My theory is that his bios was setting more restrictive limits in the chipset which supersede the limits that the bios sets in the CPU.

Long story but it sounds like your CPU is normal. Intel's 4th Gen CPUs are extremely powerful. Intel and manufacturers get away with installing these in laptops by throttling them based on temperature, power consumption or current flow. That's just how it is these days. During some applications like XTU your overclock will be ignored but less demanding applications should run faster when overclocking. The CPU will automatically adjust itself based on the various built in limits.

 

Even 3.09Ghz should be plenty. I have an 5 year old macbook that I believe is 2.2ghz on an older chip that is fine with PhotoShop, and even my desktop has a 2.4Ghz 1st gen i7 and has no issues using photoshop or lightroom (which is actually my main photo editing software anymore).

 

Alright, I also have to do a repaste. Jesus man, this is like the 4th thing they've messed up in my order.

 

347.88.. it's been a beast driver for me... I still have more GPU OC headroom but my 240W PSU isn't enough.. need to get a 330W one but I'll have to hide it before my parents complain I'm wasting more money and it's absurd to lug around a big PSU

NO NO NO... HOW MANY TIMES MUST I SAY THIS TO EVERONE? MX-2/MX-4 ARE JUNK! GET SOME PROPER GELID GC EXTREME OR IC DIAMOND!

Uninstall all your Intel and NVIDIA GPU drivers using Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU)... Then install your Intel drivers(latest version from Intel website for HD4600) and restart... Install 347.88 from NVIDIA website and restart... My OC's have been more stable with 347.88 and required lower voltages... You must have a corrupt driver install!

 

Its one of the reasons why I just do my own repasting. Takes about 5 minutes. Liquid Ultra makes it even easier. Cleaning isn't an issue since you only have to run laptop for 10 minutes to heat up the thermal paste and then remove it after shutdown.


@unclewebb : For the Current Limit issue, would it be possible to hack the BIOS to allow a bit more freedom? That would be something to take note of...

 

Oh, I didn't know that! Can the pads be acquired after purchase?

 

Im guessing thats a question we should be asking Prema over at techinferno since he has tampered with that kind of stuff.

 

IT WAS THE ONLY OPTION THEY HAD AVAILABLE. And I'll repaste it using Arctic Silver 5, the difference is just a couple of degrees (like 2-3 celcius)

Thanks for the tip. Am I mistaken or is there a repasting guide around in this thread?

 

Basically, getting at the CPU and GPU is simply a task of removing the back panel and then the heat sinks. Remove the old paste with either 90% alcohol or ArtiClean, and use a microfiber cloth, or barring that, cut up some coffee filters (they won't leave fibers behind like paper towels will). I used ArtiClean myself, since I didn't have 90% alcohol laying around, so I got it at the same time as I ordered my GC-Extreme paste. I can attest to its effectiveness, and the 2nd component ensures the surfaces are free of any residue.

To apply the paste, put a thin line lengthwise on the CPU, and a dot about half the size of a pea on the GPU; don't spread the paste around, let the mounting pressure of the heat sinks do that. When reapplying the heat sinks, be careful to set them down evenly. If you set one side down first and then the other side, you will push the paste to one side and not get even application.

 

Before you emabrk on a repaste, check your temps, mine are pretty good (under 80 C in XTU usually) and this is just with Arctic MX-2, which is what is came with from XMG, think in my case it probably not worth the hassle of repasting, I might even end up making things worse!

 

Whats going on guys...I have been looking at a new laptop to purchase and I think I am going to go with either the Sager NP8651 or Sager NP8671. With both builds the NP8651 with the upgraded IPS screen is 15 dollars more than the NP8671. Listed below are the upgraded items I put in both :
- 16 gig ram.
- 128 gig SSD.
- IC Diamond thermal paste.

I am wondering if the NP8651's IPS screen is worth it...there is no option for the IPS on the NP8671. How will heat be with a smaller laptop with the above extra components I am placing inside compared to the NP8671.

Thanks for the help.

Tony.

 

For everybody wondering about cpu throttling and stuff: you can use throttlestop to reach your 3.39 GHz even under load, eg P95. However, as user unclewebb stated earlier, you cannot extend further than the limits established on current, tdp, etc. So unless you can push them further, you will see throttling.

Now is it really a problem? Here we are talking a 3.4 to a (worst case scenario) 2.9 GHz throttling. Coming from a p35x v3, I can say that it is not the worst, and even with this throttling you will not notice important in game changes. It is a super thing to be interested in these kinds of things; but they are not the end of all problems.

As for the sluggish PS, I think there might be something else going on, since the chip you have and the throttling you show do not seem responsible for the low perf (slight throttling, capable cpu)

 

Has anyone noticed their 4720HQ throttling to 1.6GHz on battery with max performance set to 99% in battery? Whereas I plug it in and it's at 2.6GHz where it should be.

 

That's the limits that clevo set via control center.

If you uninstall it then it will work normally from what I remember.

 

Is there any need to have control center installed, really? Are there other applications that will cover all/most the bases it does and still allow the CPU to reach 2.6Ghz on battery?

 

I am currently only using it since I can set up the fan profiles, although I think Prema BIOS can do that?

Should I just install it then?

EDIT: I flashed Prema BIOS, but I am confused with regards to BIOS vs. EC. as I noticed that XMG has two downloads when you search under their BIOS downloads.

 

I'm interested in this as well! Anyone have an answer?

 

Pfff after trying out my P650SE with a 970m for a few weeks, I am a bit disappointing.
For some reason, my card is not delivering the performance I expected.
I have tried several drivers, including the latest one, 347.88.

Basically, i have to scale a lot of graphics settings down a lot, even from the detected or recommended settings to get a decent FPS.
In Arma 3 i hardly get 40+, in CS:GO it has a hard time getting 100+ heck even BF4 on ultra is a no go, dips way below 60.
It feels like i'm totally not getting what everyone else is getting out of it.
So i was wondering if I forget about a toggle somewhere or something.

My specs: i7 4720hq - 1x8gb ram - 970m (347.88) - win 8.1 up to date + all latest drivers + bios + repaste + cooling pad.... temps are around 75~ 85

I know adding 1 more 8gb ram adds up to the performance, but it can't be that much of a bottleneck right? Like even for CS:GO?
-nvidia battery boost = off and in the control panel i have 1 display and max perfomance for every game
trying to play on 1080p

 

What resolution are you playing at?

 

Can it's main 3 functions - setting power plans and sleep/hibernate settings for battery vs. mains and fan settings (though I nearly always use auto) be covered by other software? If so, what?

Will the fn-1 Mac fan key combination still work?

 

Make sure you have "high performance" selected in Windows as well as the Clevo utility.

Also, upgrading to dual-channel RAM really can make a noticeable difference. For me, going from the stock single stick of 8GB 1600MHz to 16GB dual-channel 1866MHz resulted in a 10+ fps jump in some games.

I would recommend downloading HWinfo and Intel XTU to monitor performance. All of the info you need is technically in HWinfo, but I find it easier to monitor CPU-related issues in XTU. Check for any throttling, and watch CPU and GPU usage to help identify where any problems are.

 

I have the 4k model and i get like 2 hours of battery life on powersaved with lcd lighting low and keyboard lights off... Wtf... This honestly sucks :/
Why is it other people get 4-5 hours?

 

Because of the full HD. If you read through the reviews, you see that the numbers you mention are true. The battery life time doubles with the full HD compared to the 4k.

I have the 3K but have not had time to test the battery life yet.

 

A lot of people have pointed out it takes a lot more power to run 4k screens over 1080p screens, you are rendering over 4.2x the number of pixels as a 1080p display.

 

I'm wondering if your issue is the single stick of RAM, since some people have complained in many pages before about the significant performance decrease between single channel and dual channel RAM. Since I play CS:GO quite a lot, my FPS is usually 230+ regardless of what I do with my specs and settings.

I have stated that 4K will murder it in the past PMs. However, mines last about 2.5 hrs leaving the KB lights on and screen light at 33% using Balanced settings (no turbo). 4K uses almost double the power than a 1080P screen.

 

Do we know anything about runtimes for the 3k? I have not yet seen it mentioned. Both the reviews was about the full hd and 4k.

 

should be somewhere in between, since 3K is 2.25x FHD and 4K is 4x FHD

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Interesting, maybe some sort of memory bandwidth bottleneck perchance? Guess I will have to order it ASAP.
Meanwhile I tried, the clevo settings as well as Windows performance, does not seem to help.
Even going from 1080p to 720p does not improve that much.

 

I'm wondering whether there is a difference in overall build quality between the P651SE and the P651SG.
I've heard that the chassis of the P651SG is slightly thicker to house the 980m, does that translate in a sturdier feel of the laptop?

 

What are you doing in those two hours? Demanding applications, especially anything that requires the dedicated GPU, will drain the battery very quickly.

But if you are just browsing the web, working on a Word document, watching a movie, etc., you should be able to get 4 hours of use even with the 4K display. Or at least if you have the Sharp IGZO 4K display, like I do. IGZO technology is supposed be more power efficient than standard displays, so it is possible the Samsung 4K will drain the battery faster.

 

The difference is not that marginal. Whether either model is dropped or something is dropped onto either, damages are going to be similar, if not identical.

 

Don't you mean the difference is marginal? Neither are fragile enough to be damaged by normal use, though.

 

I have the sharp matte and even if im doing nothing (literally) on power saver with backlit keyboard off and like half brightness, i get about two hours...

 

I certainly get more than that with the 1080p FHD screen I have

 

BTW does anyone else notice quite a bit of hiss coming out of the headphone out socket? I don't get this on my Macbook Air :-(

 

Thats not normal, have you hooked up any other sources like external speakers through the same port to see if you get the same. I would think it will do the same, but wont hurt to try a couple things.

 

I haven't tried that yet, will do so when I have a chance

 

About how long?
So far its the one downside to this laptop... And its big

 

Honestly, i cant take this battery. i may have to send it back if its really only going to get me 2 hours of battery life when its supposed to get around 4 from web surfing. it mean its kinda crazy that im getting two hours of battery life... like a macbook pro with a screen near the same resolution (3ish k) can get 11 hours of battery life. i know thats due to the OS and the fact that it doesnt have to power such massive components, but isnt it silly to only be able to use your laptop for two hours at time without needing a plug? then why did i get a laptop?
Grant is very sad
edit: using a battery estimator, my time just dropped below 2 hours of useage (estimated) simply because i was typing online to send this message. at the home screen it estimates about 2 hours and 15 minutes.

 

Yes! Thank you for noticing that. I think I had a different word in mind when I used "isn't." The chassis on both models seems just about identical, and indeed neither are frail.

 

Add 1 extra stick of ram
Update your bios/EC (some people had throttling problem with the first bioses/ec).
Do you have a 3K/4k screen ??

 

Does eurocom have bios/ec updates? Or if I were to update, would I use prema bios and ec?

 

For those that have overclocked their GPU, what score are you getting in 3Dmark?

While I'm very pleased with the performance of my 970M at stock (turns out it's equivalent to a desktop R9 280X and GTX 770) I'm just curious about the extra power I can push out of this bad boy in the future.

 

You can add a fair amount, people have pushed it up to stock 980M speeds, it does start to get toasty at those levels though.

 

The review with the 4K screen and a gtx970m got about 2 hours of battery life time. But that was also with the 4870HQ.
The macbook pro has a larger battery and also not near as powerfull discrete GPU. I think those two factors are quite important in regards of battery life. But i agree with you, the battery life of the macbook is amazing, this is not so amazing. Make sure the discrete GPU does not activate.
I will try the battery life of my machine with the 3K screen today. How do you best test your batterylife without the need to fiddle with the computer all the time? I'm at work and would just like to have it running here on my desk without me need to do anything with it.

 

Anyone know how to disable the blue light from the power button?

I imagine there's a ribbon attached to the switch that both turns the laptop on and the LED at the same time, but I'm curious if there's a way to remove the LED itself.

Anyone want to investigate? I was going to do it until I realized that I would have to remove the GPU heatsinks in order to get to the switch, and I don't really want to risk that as Eurocom apparently pastes IC Diamond onto their laptops.

 

I got the P650SE from Eurocom. So far so good. Went with the 970m for the metal backplate that feels just nicer than the plastic one on P650SG. Also 970m can be potentially pushed closer to 980m performance.

Eurocom includes IC Diamond 7 paste and a 7mm 7100rpm drive as default, which is nice since that leave me enough room for my 7mm SSD.

If anyone is buying from Eurocom, don't bother upgrading the CPU from 4710 to 4720. Apparently they ran out of 4710 board and will just give you 4720 anyways. Save yourself $70.

Now...onto removing that tacky Eurocom sticker...

 

Ok...so I just received the Crucial MX200 500Gb m.2 2280 today and am a bit dissapointed....the 4K writes are nowhere near the 110MB/s I've seen in reviews.The rest of the results are pretty much on par with reviews.

I have AHCI mode enabled and indexing disabled. The drive is empty and is a storage drive at the moment format as NTFS under GPT. Already ran optimize in win 8.1 defrag. TRIM is enabled.

What am I doing wrong?

Here are my Crystal Disk Mark results: