*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

It really gives the screen a very TN-feel. I don't like it :/

Update: "My apologies for the delay on this, I will inquire with my manager and the laptops guys asap." Email received at 9:28pm - odd

 

nvm please delete

 

It definitely doesn't happen on my AUO panel. Very clearly an IPS-type display.

Not sure what's up with your display panel. What's your exact panel model?

 

LP156WF4-SLB5

 

Hi,

My laptop screen shows a "flicker" of a 5cm wide solid black line the full length of my screen when i move the screen/touch certain parts of the bezel.

The laptop has not been damaged or dropped.

Is it likely to be a "loose" connection to the screen? Or is the screen itself likely damaged?

Video
https://vid.me/4EwW

 

Anyone getting the following when trying to flash the vBIOS from Prema V1 to V2? I haven't proceeded with the flash because of this.

"Warning : Firmware image PCI Subsystem ID does not match adapter PCI Subsystem ID"?

 

It looks like loose wiring on the back of the screen itself. There are a few Youtube videos showing similar lines and how to fix them using a shim made from thick paper or scotch tape.

 

There:

https://biosmods.wordpress.com/flashing-guide/

In the video at 7:15 is described what you should do. I assume it is also in the readme files included in the modifies bios archive.

 

Thanks, I forgot that from when I first watched the video because I don't remember the error appearing when I flashed PremaV1. I'm still concerned about going ahead because I read this forum post: http://forum.techinferno.com/clevo/10429-help-i-brickd-my-970m.html

 

How is this laptop working with Win10? I am tempted to throw it on there tomorrow... any drivers not working? on my Dad's W230SS he couldnt get the exclamation mark to go away on the airplane driver...

I wonder when Clevo will update their driver page for win10 drivers.

 

Just purchased this little gem, excited to join the ranks! http://m.ebay.com/itm/261976494539

VZ S5 Lollipop custom

 

Maybe I do not understand your link, which is talking about vbios. Are you trying to flash bios, vbios, both?

 

So you're saying that a higher number means more leakage? That makes absolutely no sense. 100% means exactly according to the specified reference design, while a lower percentage means that the Silicon is slightly imperfect and therefore leaks..

No one wants a leaky processor.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

 

Like any new OS, I would think the safest route is to wait a few weeks/months, let others try it, wait for drivers to be tweaked, THEN install it.

 

I have a pretty big problem. So I just bought this laptop, and I expect it to arrive tommorow. Unfortunately, I bought it with a 1TB Seagate SSHD, which is 9,5mm, and I bought before a Samsung 850 EVO SSD ,which is 7mm. Can I make both of them fit in the laptop, or do I need to sell my 1TB hdd to buy a 500gb one, since it;s only 7mm?

 

No if it's SA or SE, yes if it's SG

 

like octiceps said before, ASIC is only a way to narrow TDP ranges, if it leaks more then it should have lower operating voltage, whereas lower leakage means higher voltage.

 

I'm talking about the vBios. I have succesfully flashed the new bios over Prema's old. The error warning refers to when I want to flash the new vBios over the Prema's old.

 

Today has been a pretty hot day here in the east coast of the US, but I don't think just because it was hot that I would be hitting 98 degree celsius max using plex... the highest I've ever gotten before was around 84 degree celsius. This is with a 84.9 mv undervolt. Can the paste go bad this quick? I've only had this laptop for about 5 months.

 

It can under poor conditions if the fit of the heatsink or paste job was not right.

 

I have it running well on my 2 desktops and my surface 3 and I am loving it, I am looking to move all my systems over to 10, this laptop is my only PC still running 8.1

 

Eurocom told me not to worry since operating temperature max is 105 degree celsius but I disagree so it seems I will be on my own... Should I clean the vents and apply new thermal paste? I've never done it before, any recommendations what I should use?

 

I was in the exact same case as you, just repaste yesterday, let me some time to write about it

EDIT: see my posts below. The biggest culprit here is probably the dust, buy a can of compressed air and try to clean your vents from it. If you are not satisfied, go ahead for repasting, it not that hard in the end and very instructive!

 

So I have my P651SG for six months now, and seeing temps rising on CPU and GPU, I decided to do an always-postponed repaste (the cooling was satifactory even when receiving the laptop with factory paste job). So I thought of making a quick repasting guide for this model.

What you need:

- Screwdriver
- Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)
- Lint free pieces of cloth (I use coffee filters, it does the job)
- An air duster can
- A thermal paste tube (I picked Cooling liquid ultra (CLU), from past experience with P35X v3 it was satisfying)

Let's go!

0. Heat up a bit your computer, so the heatsinks will come more easily. Use a benchmark on cpu and gpu, or just play a demanding game for a while. The purpose is to have the heatsinks not stuck by cold thermal paste. Then turn your computer off and unplug power adapter.

1. Put your laptop on the lid, in a dust free environment, and at a good height to work on without breaking your back:

2. Unscrew the 14 screw locking the bottom panel and save them in a safe place. Note that there are two long ones, indicated on the picture by red circles. Now your laptop is opened! Take a deep breath if you have never done this before, and look at this marvel.

3. Now, first thing to do before doing ANYTHING in the internals of your laptop, is to unplug the battery (RIP Cakefish's first P650SG). I removed mine to not have it in the way, you can let it in unplugged, as you wish.


4. This is the fans and rad for the GPU. Unscrew the circled screws (on the fans, there are numbers on the plastic body to help you). As HTwingnut's noted in his review, fans are attached to the radiator. You can unplug them from the motherboard for more ease of access.


-- Next post --

 

5. This is the fan and rad for the CPU. Unscrew the circled screws, only the rad comes on the cpu, making life easier.

At this step, blow air into the heatsinks fins with the duster and watch the quantity of dust a power fan like those can eat up in six months. I had a lot, which explains the high rise in my temperatures.

6. Now look at this paste job!

7.Time to clean it up. Using your cloth, or cottonswabs, begin by removing the thermal paste on rad and chip gently, until you cannot remove anything when dry. Then move to IPA: pour a bit on your piece of cloth, or moderately on chip, and keep on cleaning the old thermal paste. A tip to see that you are done: using a clean piece of cloth, or a cotton swab, rub it on the surface you are cleaning; if it returns perfectly clean you are done, if not, keep on going!
Result:

8. Now time to apply new paste! I chose CLU, so with this one you have to be EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS as it is conducting! What I do, to make sure to not spill it every where in the computer, I press the syringe on a piece of paper out of the laptop, then when a blob is a bit out of the syringe, I carefully put it on the chip I am treating. Then, just "paint" CLU on the chip using one of the enclosed brushes.

9. Then time to put the heatsinks back! You have to be careful, with CLU at least, not to move them to much on the paste when getting them back, so carefully align screws and holes before applying the heatsink. Screw gently each of the heatsinks, spreading stress by alterning which screw you tighten, going from one to another instead to tightening one totally, then going to the other.

10. Remember to plug back fans and battery, then time to test to be sure the job is correct beffore putting the bottom of the laptop back!

These tests were performed with fans on auto (100% reached for cpu when crossing the 95 line I believe), stock clocks, undervolt @-70mV on cpu core, -120mV on cache, Throttle Stop on.

Temps max (C):

XTU benchmark 99 --> 83
3dmark Firestrike CPU: 79 GPU: 78 --> CPU: 61 GPU: 68
Heaven max CPU: 74 GPU: 75 --> CPU: 60 GPU: 64

Thoughts:
These results are not to attribute totally to using CLU, the amount of dust I removed from the heatsinks is the first responsible for the improvement. I would say that using this paste shaved an additionnal 3-5 degrees, comparing with my out of the box temps.

After the first repaste, comparing my temps with the ones included in HTWingnut's review of the P650SG, I decided to improve the repaste. Removing the heatsinks back, I observed that CLU was not clinging perfectly on the copper surface of these ones. So I added a tiny tiny bit more of paste on this surface, and painted it too with the brush. I have been careful to use as few as I can of this paste, in order to not overflow the "volume " of the contact heatsink/chip and have it flow into the laptop. The temperatures posted above correspond to this final repaste.


So now, I have a question: looking at the thermal pads on the gpu heatsink, they seemed rather cheap to me. What impact would a bunch of Fujipoly pads have here? Did anybody tried on this laptop? I am especially interested in the improvement in overclocking potential, as VRAM doesn't have temperature sensors, I have no idea how they are doing so far.

 

Thanks for the pictures and instructions! I wasn't expecting that much help, but it is very informative I just need to go and buy some stuff first .

 

Yes always a good idea to service it every so often and give it a good cleaning.

 

Are there are disassembly/teardown guide for the P650se/P650sg around? I want to disassemble the whole thing and do a custom paint job. Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

No complete tear downs, you may want to use the service manual to go as far as that gets you and follow common sense teardown rules after that (Pictures, screws laid out etc).

 

I have this axact config, i drilled out the four screws from the ssd and i put the bare ssd board in under the hdd, been there for 3 months no problem. I did use some electrical tape around the board(not the chips thell overheat) to prevent shortage.

 

Running windows 10 on this beast perfectly, the only thing I cant use is the Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3 software, which is sad since it makes my headphones sound a lot better.

I am hoping next month Clevo will update their drivers so I can get that to work, but other than that windows 10 on this laptop runs flawlessly.

 

How did you install it, via windows update?

 

You can find windows 10 drivers on the mysn ftp.

http://www.mysn.de/driver/XMG/XMG_P505/Drivers/Win10/

 

Nice find, they have also been added to the mySN driver download page: http://www.mysn.de/secure/userarea/download.asp?KategorienOrder=010;010&show=Support

XMG>XMG_P505>Drivers>Win10

 

Anyone else having issues with Bluetooth on Windows 10? I can't find any Bluetooth devices at all, zero, none, nada. Not my headphones, not my phone nor my smartwatch. I've tried 4 different driver versions and got one bluescreen so I gave up.

 

Have you got the device showing in device manager? Is it on?

 

my bluetooth is working (tested on my bt speaker). but i did use the ms tool to hide/uninstall the bt driver auto update.

 

Thanks for your reply
Yes I have got it showing in device manager and yes it is on:

(I ended up with this version after lots of testing, it's just a random one because I gave up)

May I ask what driver version you are running? And which update did you hide?

Thanks!

 

MYSN has new BIOS and EC versions (1.05.01) for P505. Are they for BIOS or vBIOS? And has anyone tried them yet? Is there any difference?

 

Thanks. I see you're using the Intel WiFi card. I have the Killer WiFi card so that's incomparable

Anyway, after many hours, I finally got my Bluetooth to work:


Here's how I did it:
1. Uninstall and completely remove your current Bluetooth driver (i.e. Go to the control panel and uninstall the Quallcomm Atheros Bluetooth Suite AND Remove/Uninstall the driver via Device Manager).
2. Reboot your system when prompted.
3. Install this driver:
http://www.mysn.de/driver/XMG/XMG_P505/Drivers/Win10/10_WLAN.zip (BT driver is in there as well)
4. Next, install this driver ON TOP of it, using Device manager:
http://rivetnetworks-public.sharepoint.com/SiteAssets/K1525-BT_10.0.0.116_Win10.zip
I.e. right click the current Bluetooth driver, select Update Driver, browse to the folder where you unpacked the driver (make sure 'search subfolders is checked) and tadaa!

Trust me, you need both. Using just either one of two won't work. I've tried many many times.

 

installed them, they work great

 

What do they change vs previous ones?

 

Has anybody updated to the newest version of prema mod on a p650sg/np8652?
If so is there any performance or efficiency increase of any kind, what changed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

My P650SG has had some major issues with the Ethernet port since updating to Windows 10. Initially the port works fine but then within 1-2 minutes the network drops and won't reconnect until I reset the Ethernet driver.

This has not changed with applying the recent 'Windows 10' LAN driver. I can use my 7260 AC WiFi card in the mean time, but I do a lot of Steam Streaming so it's not the perfect outcome.

I've tried tweaking all the driver related advanced settings for the Realtek Ethernet port but I guess I'll just have to wait until a new driver comes out. Does anyone else have the same issue??

My GFs laptop (also on Win 10) and my steam streaming box (a Brix) works fine on Ethernet, so it's definitely just the P650SG.

 

Just reinstall the driver and it'll start working again.

It works for me? Try reinstalling it.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

anyone try the new iris/hd4600 intel drivers yet?

 

I'll be receiving my P650SG on Tuesday and be going from 7 to 10 straight away. So I'll let you know if I experience the same issue.

VZ S5 Lollipop custom

 

Heya guys I'm bout to join this club and buy a P650SE Here are the specs I'm aiming for :

CPU: Intel Mobile Core i7-4720HQ 2.6GHz, 6MB cache, Quad Core c/ Hyperthreading
GPU:NVidia GeForce GTX970M 3GB DDR5 + Intel HD Graphics 4600
Screen : 15.6" FullHD (1920x1080), LED IPS, Matte
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 256GB SATA3 M.2
RAM: 1x Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB, DDR3L 1600MHz
Wi-fi : WiFi: Intel Wireless-AC 7265 867Mbps Dual Band + Bluetooth 4.0

What do you think of it? I'm aiming at plyign games like Fallout 4 and Batman ( when it's working ahah) and also do a bit of Solidwork and all... Do you think it will last me for a few years?

 

Umm, they work fine on a Win7 system but I have a strange feeling that's not what you care about

Granted a 980M will give you more leeway over the years, your specs should definitely serve you quite nicely (ie. 970M is solid). You can always add more storage and RAM as needed later. Enjoy!