*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

Just be careful that many sites list compatible replacements which could end up being any panel with the same shape, connector and resolution.

 

I read somewhere that going from 1080p screen to a 4k wont work without hardware modifications. So i guess its just not possible for now :/

 

You need a cable that can do it, so the model had to have 4k as an option at some point.

 

Hi there. Which version of the Realtek Audio Driver are you using on your Clevo at the moment? I just reinstalled Windows and now I'm having the same problem I mentioned last month, where the headphone jack won't work without CCC installed. I really don't want to install CCC because I consider it to be nothing more than bloatware. The driver Windows pre-installed for me was 6.0.1.7628. I also tried installing 6.0.1.7560 from the Clevo website but that doesn't work, either.

EDIT: Well I tried the driver from Sager website (6.0.1.7553) and that one also doesn't work with the headphone jack. The driver from the Realtek website (6.0.1.8186) actually worked for 1 hour but after I rebooted a couple of times it randomly stopped working.

 

So my P650SG went up in smoke last week
I was working as usual when it froze on me, which was odd because it used to be a rock solid system. I turned it off by holding the power button and got it back to life. After 30 minutes, it froze again, so I turned it off again by holding the power button and turned it back on. And again, after 30 minutes it froze and started to smell like burnt electronics. I removed the power adapter as quickly as I could and turned it off but it was too late. Here's the aftermath:









I've found the repair manual of the P65xSG here: http://s472165864.onlinehome.fr/anyware/manuels/P65XSG_ESM.pdf
By the looks if it, the following parts need replacement:

I'm currently sourcing parts and hope I can scavenger them for a decent price, since MOQ for some parts are over 3000 units and I only need two or so.

 

Yikes. Which part of the board was it?

 

Bottom left of the mainboard, near the horizontal M2 slot:

 

You can try but it could have caused deeper damage to the PCB.

 

Is there a preferred thermal paste type and application method for the P650SE's CPU? I currently use Mastergel Maker and apply it to the CPU using a thick line method (moving the tube slowly across while squeezing out a lot) and no additional pressure outside of the screws.

My problem is that the temps on Aida64's CPU test look good at around 82 right after application, but the same test returns around 90 less than a month later. Does applying too much paste cause the paste outside the CPU to sort of suck out the paste on the CPU, or does Mastergel Maker just deteriorate quickly under heat?

 

What does the contact pattern look like when removing the heatsink? Usually that is the best way to judge,

 

Hi, is there any RAM-CPU vs stock-BIOS Compatibility issue with 2133MHz RAM in Clevo P65SE?
I recently updated this laptop with 2x8GB Kingston HyperX 2133MHz (from Amazon)... the 'old' 8GB 1600MHz is working fine so is not a RAM-port issue, the issue is on 2133MHz brand new RAM sticks, one way or another.

CPU is Intel i7 4720HQ, stock clock.

After some errors, memory-management related, I ran MemTest86 full tests and it is rare that after a night results are 800 errors or more, considering this is a brand new RAM... could be:

- A case of bad-RAM?, corrupted Hardware ( RMA and warranty would solve the issue in that case, once I am sure about that).

- A Compatibility issue with CPU and stock BIOS (I read something about Prema Mod BIOS modded BIOS, requirement for +1866MHz RAM in this laptop, but I am not sure.

- Is possible a RAM Underclocking (without issues), for example to 1866MHz or 1600MHz to test if this is a IMC (integrated memory controller) issue or a Compatibility issue?.

I already search over the thread, among TechInferno, and another sites, I collected related comments as reference, help would be very appreciated.

About latest stock-BIOS updates and Prema MOD BIOS, how I could get them? (I bought PC in PcSpecialist, around 2015Q3), I didn't find Prema MOD links for this laptop, and I saw all links are dead or deleted, cause some kind of partnership exclusivity, and I think I have the last 'public' stock BIOS.

Of course as BIOS Flashing is a crucial step, checksum-perfect, trusted-sources to get BIOS are necessary.

References (comments related in this thread)

Spoiler

- #488
- #804
- #808
- #841
- #1616
- #2599
- #2560
- #3756
- #4632
- #6694
- #6698
- #6696
- #6699

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance, from a reader for years, now recent user.

 

Those cpus are not binned for that high memory speed, it could be your IMC cannot take the speed.

 

@ Meaker@Sager, that is possible but is not confirmed (as some people claimed in past 2133MHz RAM working good, maybe with custom BIOS, etc), if it is a IMC limitation, maybe Underclocking will solve problem, but if not and it is a CPU (stock clock issue) or BIOS limitation c ould be solved with modded BIOS.

1- If someone knows more about this ( how to perform Underclocking with this laptop or extend RAM Compatibility via modded BIOS) let me know, I will it appreciate very much.

2- Anyway, any Prema Mod BIOS links for this laptop?, or way to get that, I am very interested on that.

 

Underclocking would help almost all CPUs can manage 1866mhz. Just the silicon lottery on the CPU.

 

Well for RAM Underclocking it seems I need custom (modded) BIOS, with stock BIOS I didn't find the option, it is very limited, so I need preferably Prema Mod, the issue is I didn't find any mirror or download link... and Prema seems unreachable via pm as I am 'newbie' here...

Could anyone share a link for BIOS Prema Mod for Clevo P65SE ? with checksum, via pm if this is not allowed by some rule or something, I need to identify if it is a bad RAM case or Compatibility issue, before RMA to Kingston.

Any alternative to this?, stock BIOS seems dead end, I didn't find RAM options to make Underclocking, as I said it seems very limited one.

I hope someone can help me, thanks in advance.

 

The BIOS is not available for sharing, perhaps return the ram and order an 1866mhz memory kit instead.

 

The power adapter on the motherboard of my P650SG is fried. Really bummed, because this has been a great notebook. I'm trying to decide if it's worth sending to Sager for repair. They won't provide an estimate without seeing it (I don't blame them). Shipping alone from Ohio isn't cheap. Ugh... I wish It would have lasted longer than 4 years.

 

Did you take any pics? Do you have a multimeter to check out values?

 

The keyboard of my ps651se / p505 is not working correctly anymore. Some keys need multiple keypresses to work or won't work at all. Already opened it up and cleaned connector/cable of the keyboard. Reattached it firmly, but no help. Would replacing the keyboard work? They're about €25 on AliExpress.

 

I have the same problem currently with my old Acer Aspire V3-571G. I replaced the keyboard but it didn't make any difference. And to make matters worse I noticed the locking tab that holds the ribbon cable secure on the motherboard is now broken on both sides. I'm not sure whether that happened before or after the issues started.

Anyway, I think mine is just down to a bad connection or something. But it's rather frustrating to diagnose and I sympathise since you have the same problem with your P651SE.

 

I had similar problems with my keyboard in my P650SG; for example, some keys had become harder to press than others - in particular, the M key and the dot key. Solved by replacing the keyboard. It's easy and cheap, so I would definitely recommend it.

 

@Meaker@Sager

Thanks for responding. I don't have a multimeter, but I took the pics below. Doesn't appear to be much physical damage. It got extremely hot one day (CPU and GPU temps were fine) and I took it to my local shop who told me the power adapter is damaged. it won't charge.

 

Can you be more specific on the exact wording they used? Do they mean just the connector? The power brick? The circuitry on the board?

 

@Meaker@Sager
They said that the DC jack on the motherboard is bad. They tried the power cable/brick on another computer and it works fine.

 

There is no obvious physical damage is all.

 

@Meaker@Sager

Any ballpark estimate for what you think the repair may cost? $300-$400?

 

If it's just the connector less than $100, if the board needs replacing a lot more.

 

i'm starting to have an issue lately where my laptop's power supply will shut off under load, the light on it will go out and my laptop turns over to battery. disconnecting the power supply from the mains and reconnecting it usually fixes the problem, but it's getting annoying. how do i know if it's my laptop on the verge of dying pulling too much power or if it's my power supply just getting too old and being unable to deliver what it used to? no overclocking is done.

 

By trying another adapter usually.

 

Another vote for cheap Aliexpress solutions. the one I bought looked and functioned exactly like the OEM keyboard.

 

I used to have this one as my on the go charger. You can find them easily on eBay.

 

Machines dont usually survive for long if they keep over drawing enough to shut the brick off.

 

It seems a psu problem, so a new one should resolve it? That's what I read in your previous comment.
Hence my recommendation for a new charger.

 

It's been some time since this post, but I snapped some pictures recently of the old contact pattern and my application method when I replaced my CPU thermal paste. Gaming doesn't stress my CPU out above 90C usually (averaging 80-87C), but I regularly hit 99C throttling temps during bioinformatics work. Over like a month, gaming will eventually hit high 90s too until I replace my thermal paste.

 

Way too much paste there, try a line 1/3 the thickness.

 

Is there a downside to too much paste, aside from wasting money? I get fairly paranoid about potentially leaving spots uncovered.

 

Way too much impacts contact.

 

The only way I could really reduce the temps with my P650SG was to use liquid metal paste. This essentially gets you perfect contact with the heatsink. It's not a great solution IMO though because that stuff will slowly alloy with the unplated copper and of course a conductive liquid inside a PC is a risk in general.

The real problem is the heatsink really is inadequate to maintain these CPUs at a high load, especially any software efficiently using SIMD on all cores. This is frequently a problem with notebook cooling these days. It's something else to research before buying.

 

It does not alloy iirc, just makes it into the natural pores of the metal meaning thermal conductivity is not really changed.

 

I had a LMed P650SG for 3 years and the temps were great the whole time. This was after running Prime95 Small FFTs (non-AVX) overnight:

 

That looks good. Yeah I was concerned that whatever process was occurring between Liquid Ultra and the copper would cause it to lose its fluidity and lose contact in the relatively near future.

Cleaning the stuff off the heatsink is a PITA though. The abrasive pad approach is nonsense because it messes up heatsink flatness. You really need to lap the heatsink if you plan to use regular paste again.

I have two desktops with Liquid Ultra. Can't resist delidding Intel CPUs for that 20C drop every time. The IHS has nickel plating though which is resistant to most things.

 

Clean off the surface and use paste again, it really should not matter being discoloured.

 

Anyone have a recommendation for a reputable place to buy a replacement CMOS battery? I found this on Amazon. Has the same part number and the same connector as far as I can tell from the pictures. But there are a few reviews that say the batteries arrived dead.

 

You don't need those. Get compatible Duracell or Energizer button cell battery and replace. Then use tape to cover the battery.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

I haven’t torn the black covering off the old battery. How is the connector wire attached to the battery? I guess I had assume that wire wasn’t swappable to a new battery.

 

It's not soldered. Worse case just attach bare wire and use tape to stick them to the battery. It's just "fix it and forget it" item anyway.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

Tape the bare wires to the battery? Hardly sounds very reliable. Pass

 

I've had this laptop for 3 and a half years (and have used it heavily) but now it seems my battery has been exhausted. I noticed just recently that it hasn't been holding as much charge, and all of a sudden the laptop has started powering off even when the battery meter still shows as much as 60% charge remaining.

I also need a replacement LCD bezel because the one on mine has cracks in each of the corners.

Is there anywhere I can get still these parts in the UK? I have to imagine that the battery and bezel will be identical to the ones from the later P650 models with the Pascal GPUs. I contacted the vendor who I bought the laptop from (PC Specialist) but they said they are not planning to order any further spares since it is an old laptop.

 

We can ship parts or maybe a European reseller?

 

Thanks. Although I have to imagine it would be quite expensive to have the parts shipped from the US, and if there are any import taxes on top of that to the UK?

Yes, I could try asking around the other resellers based in Europe. There must be someone who still has these spares in stock.